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Battery change tips

Rockcrawlindude

a rock crawlin’ dude
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Final edit: to change the battery you will want a 10mm wrench for the terminals and a 10mm socket on an extension for the hold-down. Recommend a 13mm socket to remove the upper fender brace and a trim tool to pop the push lock tab holding the positive cable. Memory saver doesn’t seem necessary.

[start original post] Think I’m due for a new battery. Last two starts were longer than normal crank time and just went to open my tailgate and the tailgate latches sounded puny and didn’t unlatch. Voltage was 12.2. Cranked the truck and the tailgate opened with normal power.

I’m not a wait til it dies type of person so I’m replacing it (edit: my battery is 4 years old and my truck sits most days)

Planning on getting the Duracell AGM I’ve had great luck with them.

Any tips you guys have on changing the battery in this truck? I’m hoping there isn’t some weird procedure that will cause my truck to not start if I don’t do it correctly.

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I forgot to use some memory saver thing I have when putting in an Optima a few months ago…the thing plugs into the OBD port.
The truck started and ran fine afterward but certain things were missing from the screen like heated seats, AC control and such.
All was back the next morning.
 
I forgot to use some memory saver thing I have when putting in an Optima a few months ago…the thing plugs into the OBD port.
The truck started and ran fine afterward but certain things were missing from the screen like heated seats, AC control and such.
All was back the next morning.
Thank you for your response. Glad to know nothing “bad” will happen if I just change the battery normally.

I hope you have good luck with your optima. I had one 20 years ago that was absolutely incredible. Handful of years ago I had a few duds in a row and I ditched the brand and switched to Duracell AGM (Sam’s club/ batteries plus) and I’ve had 3 great ones in a row.
 
Thank you for your response. Glad to know nothing “bad” will happen if I just change the battery normally.

I hope you have good luck with your optima. I had one 20 years ago that was absolutely incredible. Handful of years ago I had a few duds in a row and I ditched the brand and switched to Duracell AGM (Sam’s club/ batteries plus) and I’ve had 3 great ones in a row.

Yeah…have heard that Optima isn’t what it was when I bought my last. That one was in my bad azz Bronco for maybe six and then in my Raptor for 11, still good when traded in.
The battery store lady said she doesn’t get back many Yellowtops, if it makes it the warranty then meh…no batts are cheap nowadays.
BTW..that memory saver runs off a 9 volt battery and was pretty cheap iirc. Could no doubt rig or hook a another batt or vehicle/ jumper cables…something to keep constant power to your truck. Maybe hook your trailer to it, if your truck charges the trailer’s batt that should work through the charge circuit betcha.
 
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Yeah…have heard that Optima isn’t what it was when I bought my last. That one was in my bad azz Bronco for maybe six and then in my Raptor for 11, still good when traded in.
The battery store lady said she doesn’t get back many Yellowtops, if it makes it the warranty then meh…no batts are cheap nowadays.
BTW..that memory saver runs off a 9 volt battery and was pretty cheap iirc. Could no doubt rig or hook an another batt or vehicle/ jumper cables…something to keep constant power to your truck. Maybe hook your trailer to it, if your truck charges the trailer’s batt that should work through the charge circuit betcha.
The trailer idea sounds like a good one. I like that.
 
Wonder if I could use my Battery tender on the battery cables.
Tried something like that when disconnecting cables on the Raptor cause I was paranoid about what would happen to it back then, my charger was too smart and wouldn’t kick out unless it detected a battery. It all led me to buy that saver thing which is really the way to go doing it right I think.
I would stick a glove over the positive cable upon disconnect, didn’t want it arcing.
 
Tried something like that when disconnecting cables on the Raptor cause I was paranoid about what would happen to it back then, my charger was too smart and wouldn’t kick out unless it detected a battery. It all led me to buy that saver thing which is really the way to go doing it right I think.
I would stick a glove over the positive cable upon disconnect, didn’t want it arcing.
Makes sense my battery tender may operate the same way. Thanks for the info.
 
Some have said the battery tray holds water. Up to you weather it bothers you enough to drill holes in the tray to prevent stagnant water from malingering in your engine compartment.
 
What do you folks think of Interstate batteries for these trucks?
 
Those Duracell Platinum AGM batteries are legit. Just over 5 years on the 2 G27's in my bass boat. Can still troll and spot lock all day without them going dead. For the money they are hard to beat. They're a Deka Intimidator with a different label and costs less. Made by East Penn.
 
Hook up your trailer it works great or you can use a constant voltage charger. But to be honest i have disconnected my batteries enough and never lost anything
 
Some have said the battery tray holds water. Up to you weather it bothers you enough to drill holes in the tray to prevent stagnant water from malingering in your engine compartment.
it def holds water. i was shocked at how much when I changed batteries.
 
By chance do you or anyone have a link to this? Thank you in advance! I tried to quote the post above about connecting this cable to jackery battery.
 
By chance do you or anyone have a link to this? Thank you in advance! I tried to quote the post above about connecting this cable to jackery battery.
Clore Automotive SOLAR ESA30 OBD II Memory Saver Connector https://a.co/d/hMzlse5

I grabbed this. It has good reviews. I picked up the battery and I have the cable. Haven’t done the battery swap yet I’ve been running around like crazy all weekend.
 
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