Aux Switches

[cheez]

I didn't have any success with my attempt so I've got a 68376644AE unit I'm selling on the buy/sell/trade forum.

2019 2500/3500 Aux Switch Cluster (PDC interface)

If you follow this thread on Aux PDC enablement you'll be familiar with the ability to swap the stock switch module at the bottom of the monolithic center stack (where the trailer brake controller is) for one with six auxiliary switches below the row of exhaust brake, tow/haul, and parking...

hdrams.com

 

[Brutal_HO]

Ok, totally dumb user here, and first time I have aux switches in a RAM...
What is a PDC, and why would I need one?

Basically, I want to add:
1. light bar in the bumper
2. power a DC-DC charger for the 5th wheel. I will run a heavy cable that will go to the back of the truck, then connect using an Anderson connector to a new heavy cable from the 5th wheel, which will connect to a DC-DC charger. I will fuse the main cable, but want to also switch it using one of the aux switches.

Do I need a PDC to use the aux switches for the above?
And if anyone has specific suggestions on wiring the above, I would be really appreciative!

Thanks,

B

You're planning to use a contactor relay to switch that heavy power cable?

Also, there's a HAPP (High Amp Power Point) busbar on the driver side battery you should connect any high current loads to and it's also on the correct side of the IBS sensor.

Find the upfitter schematic for your model year (and other docs) on the Ram bodybuilder pages here" https://www.ramtrucks.com/ram-commercial/body-builders-guide.html

You'll find the instructions for the upfitter wiring connections there as well (you have you kit bag of wires right?)

If running directly from an Aux wire, they have lower rated continuous load capacity than the fuse. 40A=28A.

Note there's a 50A max on the chassis ground if you're using the HAPP.

 

[kobra]

You're planning to use a contactor relay to switch that heavy power cable?

Also, there's a HAPP (High Amp Power Point) busbar on the driver side battery you should connect any high current loads to and it's also on the correct side of the IBS sensor.

Find the upfitter schematic for your model year (and other docs) on the Ram bodybuilder pages here" https://www.ramtrucks.com/ram-commercial/body-builders-guide.html

You'll find the instructions for the upfitter wiring connections there as well (you have you kit bag of wires right?)

If running directly from an Aux wire, they have lower rated continuous load capacity than the fuse. 40A=28A.

Note there's a 50A max on the chassis ground if you're using the HAPP.

Awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for, thanks @Brutal_HO !

B

 

[elephantrider]

I finally got that wiring kit from Paul, installed.

 

[pdavey]

The only thing I don’t notice is the left dash harness that contains the actual aux PDC body (I see the upper and lower cover in your list). 68460174AB would be an example of a left dash harness that contains the aux PDC, but there are several part numbers depending on which headlights you have, fog lights, and front park sense, etc.

As usual you were right Jimmy07


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[ccjbmo]

I finally got that wiring kit from Paul, installed.

View attachment 9127View attachment 9128

Can you tell me where you got the upgrade from?

 

[elephantrider]

I believe he's on the forum, here but not sure of his username... I bought it through him on fb.

@Brutal_HO , @Jimmy07 either of you know by chance?

 

[farmallboy]

You're planning to use a contactor relay to switch that heavy power cable?

Also, there's a HAPP (High Amp Power Point) busbar on the driver side battery you should connect any high current loads to and it's also on the correct side of the IBS sensor.

Find the upfitter schematic for your model year (and other docs) on the Ram bodybuilder pages here" https://www.ramtrucks.com/ram-commercial/body-builders-guide.html

You'll find the instructions for the upfitter wiring connections there as well (you have you kit bag of wires right?)

If running directly from an Aux wire, they have lower rated continuous load capacity than the fuse. 40A=28A.

Note there's a 50A max on the chassis ground if you're using the HAPP.

So anyone can jump in here. In fact if @Atty wants to I'm all ears. I am not installing my aux setup yet. But I'm getting ready to power a distribution bank in the cab and I need clean power ground for my amateur radio. This whole HAPP thing has me confused and concerned. You seem to know it so unfortunately I'm quoting you sir.

Where is the best power stud to hook to and where is the best ground ? I have a 6.4

I have a large power stud that I failed to include in my picture that's under my red plastic cap. I also have an available stud easily accessible and live built right into the fuse box.

The ground has the available studs shown. Looking for input and advice guys. Thanks for your time.

 

[jsalbre]

If you open up that black plastic cover between the pos and neg terminals there’s a large unused stud. That’s the high amp power point.

 

[farmallboy]

If you open up that black plastic cover between the pos and neg terminals there’s a large unused stud. That’s the high amp power point.

Ok cool. I'll use that for power. Know if it matters where I grab ground?

 

[Atty]

It shouldn't matter where you grab ground, any thick negative post or decent bolt to the chassis/body panel etc will work.

 

[farmallboy]

It shouldn't matter where you grab ground, any thick negative post or decent bolt to the chassis/body panel etc will work.

Ok thanks. The HAAP thing and sensor plugged into ground lug and overall complicated hookup system of the thing has me nervous. Couple that with never having a new truck....

Great. Thanks guys!

 

[jsalbre]

Ok cool. I'll use that for power. Know if it matters where I grab ground?

If you’re under 50A you can use any grounding lug on the frame. Over 50A you should ground either direct to the engine block or to the battery.

 

[Brutal_HO]

If you’re under 50A you can use any grounding lug on the frame. Over 50A you should ground either direct to the engine block or to the battery.

This. Chassis ground or for high current loads, the engine block. For an in-cab distribution block, I'd probably go to engine block if you think you'll pull that much current.

Here's a link to the actual upfitter doc for a 2020 3500 that's on the bodybuilder site. https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuild...Name=Ram_Heavy Duty Truck_ HAPP 2019+ (3).pdf

This is the HAAP where you pick up BAT+



Also, I should not have mentioned IBS (that box on the BAT- post) as it doesn't come into play here and only matters if you're charging the battery.

 

[farmallboy]

Thanks for the input guys. The week has gotten away from me and I haven't made much progress. Will be running 4awg to fuse block/splitter to 8 awg to distribution block under knee buster. Right now I'm only running my dual band icom off it.

I want battery ground to eliminate potential for alternator noise.

 

[DataPak420]

Can anyone tell me the cost of the aux switch part from the dealer? I live in Canada so if you have a canadian price that would be awesome. This going to be my first mod. Or if someone can tell me the part # for the one with traction control, tow/haul, front parksense,and rear parksense? I'm very interested in doing this mod just taking a long time to read through all the posts. Is there a complete write up for this somewhat?

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[DataPak420]

Can anyone tell me the cost of the aux switch part from the dealer? I live in Canada so if you have a canadian price that would be awesome. This going to be my first mod. Or if someone can tell me the part # for the one with traction control, tow/haul, front parksense,and rear parksense? I'm very interested in doing this mod just taking a long time to read through all the posts. Is there a complete write up for this somewhat?

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I found the part number for the dash piece. I know I'll also need AlfaOBD to enable them. But what about the wiring and the fuse box? Do we have part numbers for them as well?

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[Nick]

I have Aux switches without the uplifter also . I agree adding those switches would be a real pain .

 

[JesseLackman]

Uplifter kit is separate from aux switches. I ordered the uplifter kit but after reading about it all it seems to be able to do is wigwag light shows. Aux switches weren't an available option on the PW, if they were I would have ordered them. Below is what an uplifter tech said to me. So I ordered the correct OEM aux power distribution box and will probably order the switch panel too and see what I can do. From reading All the aux switch threads it looks like it can be done.

Dear Jesse Lackman, Thanks for raising a request for 'Aux switches, aux power distribution box, VSIM' with Ram commercial team for body builder's guide. Our engineers have analyzed the request and provided the solution below. Request Id: 6772 Request Subject: Aux switches, aux power distribution box, VSIM Request Description: I have a new 2020 Power Wagon and ordered the upfitter module option. I can't understand the overall relationship between the VSIM, aux PDC, and aux switches. I did find where I can buy the aux switch panel (68376640AE) and aux PDC (68398184AC) but don't want to buy them until I understand how they work with the VSIM and wiring. I read everything on the ram commercial body builder site and on Ram forums but still don't get how the VISM works with the aux switches/aux PDC. I really want the aux switches. I don't understand the value of the VSIM without the aux switches. Hope this makes sense. Response: Unfortunately, aux switches cannot be added to a complete vehicle. The aux switch system is totally integrated into the vehicles electronics. The switch bank has a small computer in it. The button on the dash signals the processor in the switch bank. The processor takes the switch signal and based on data sent from the cluster via the data bus, decides which relay to fire in the aux PDC and when to fire it. If the vehicle was not built with aux switches, the rest of the electronics in the vehicle will not be configured properly. The programming menu in the cluster will not be there and the messages that the switch needs to do its job won't be there either. There are also some diagnostics issues. If the wrong switch is plugged into the vehicle, fault codes will be set and depending on the trim level of the vehicle, some of the other electronic components (heated steering wheel and seats to name a few) will not function properly. There is no way to change the electronic configurations on a complete vehicle. With reference to your questions about the associations between the VSIM and the Aux. Switches, there are none. The VSIM provides the ability to interface with different parts of the vehicle without creating faults or cutting into the trucks wiring. The Aux switches are sources of switched power. We hope it resolved the issue/query observed! Thank you.

 

[JesseLackman]

Here are pictures of the switch. While you can pull off the faceplate it doesn't look like you can replace the writing on them unless you get someone to mold you a custom button

I got mine installed with relative ease and enabled them through alphaodb.

Have the aux pdc on order and will install that when it comes in.

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Is that going in a truck without a full center console like a Power Wagon?