Aux Switches

[Atty]

If you search up infotainment and dash removal it shows you how to add the security bypass module as well as the removal of the 12" display. I think i put a link to it earlier in the thread. Also don't bother trying to connect the wires at the firewall.. It's far easier to run new wires from the Aux pdc and to drill a hole through the "clutch port " see a picture in the thread by someone earlier on.

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[davidskywalker]

Yes, other have done this and the harness will plug right in, that being said the wires from in the cab to the PDC do not exist. I believe someone stated that the harness from the switches connects to a harness under the knee panel that needs to be retrofitted with the wiring into the PDC. I haven't seen anyone walk through the actual removal, if you read this entire thread that should help. There are a couple other forums that also talk about this subject that have additional information. I finally have all my parts and will work on it sometime soon.

You seem to be ahead on adding this feature. Can you post some photos once you are done. thank you

 

[Brutal_HO]

If you search up infotainment and dash removal it shows you how to add the security bypass module as well as the removal of the 12" display. I think i put a link to it earlier in the thread. Also don't bother trying to connect the wires at the firewall.. It's far easier to run new wires from the Aux pdc and to drill a hole through the "clutch port " see a picture in the thread by someone earlier on.

Sent from my SM-N9600 using Tapatalk

I'm not sure if you're suggesting using the infotainment bypass.

IMHO, adding a bypass module behind the Cluster/EVIC isn't a good solution for the HD trucks. The Koadtech cable plugged into the CAN blocks is a better, less intrusive solution that can be pulled in seconds if the truck needs to see a dealer. Unless you move the SGW and can easily access those connectors without pulling the gauge Cluster.

 

[Atty]

I'm not sure if you're suggesting using the infotainment bypass.

IMHO, adding a bypass module behind the Cluster/EVIC isn't a good solution for the HD trucks. The Koadtech cable plugged into the CAN blocks is a better, less intrusive solution that can be pulled in seconds if the truck needs to see a dealer. Unless you move the SGW and can easily access those connectors without pulling the gauge Cluster.

I wasn't recommending the infotainment one per se but that is what I ended up doing to use ALFA OBDII. What I was trying to convey was that they have a good video on how to remove not only the dash but the screen/center stack as well. The Koadtech cable does sound far simpler to install though. I don't leave my SGW in I just put it to do my changes and then replace back to standard for normal driving. Do you know how much the Koadtech cable is for a 2500 2109?

 

[Brutal_HO]

I wasn't recommending the infotainment one per se but that is what I ended up doing to use ALFA OBDII. What I was trying to convey was that they have a good video on how to remove not only the dash but the screen/center stack as well. The Koadtech cable does sound far simpler to install though. I don't leave my SGW in I just put it to do my changes and then replace back to standard for normal driving. Do you know how much the Koadtech cable is for a 2500 2109?

cable is $50

 

[Atty]

cable is $50

ok so the same price as the infotainment module.. bugger wish I'd realised that earlier! oh well I have what I have now, but that would have been far simpler!

 

[Brutal_HO]

ok so the same price as the infotainment module.. bugger wish I'd realised that earlier! oh well I have what I have now, but that would have been far simpler!

Amen. I jumped the gun myself and have an Infotainment module sitting here on my desk for months.

 

[grum]

The local dealer advised me that if I utilized the aux switches and it the load was over the rating of the switch, the warranty would not cover any repairs. What I decided was to add an auxiliary relay box that would be controlled by the aux switches and would use commonly available Bosh style relays and fuses. The engine compartment is pretty difficult to find a clean location to mount another relay box, but i think it looks pretty decent. i also have room to add another 6 port relay box if i need to in the future.

the stock ports are only rated for 28 amps continuous, if i need more capacity than that i can parallel a set of relay/fuses and get up to 80 amp capacity within the box.

my aux power to the bed of the truck is rated at 600 amps, and has heavy duty relays that will be controlled by a relay in this box which is in turn controlled by the aux switches.

 

[Atty]

The local dealer advised me that if I utilized the aux switches and it the load was over the rating of the switch, the warranty would not cover any repairs. What I decided was to add an auxiliary relay box that would be controlled by the aux switches and would use commonly available Bosh style relays and fuses. The engine compartment is pretty difficult to find a clean location to mount another relay box, but i think it looks pretty decent. i also have room to add another 6 port relay box if i need to in the future.

the stock ports are only rated for 28 amps continuous, if i need more capacity than that i can parallel a set of relay/fuses and get up to 80 amp capacity within the box.

my aux power to the bed of the truck is rated at 600 amps, and has heavy duty relays that will be controlled by a relay in this box which is in turn controlled by the aux switches.

Looks nice! and yes regardless of using the Aux PDC or a different relay box you need to use relays so that the only load being applied through the switches is for the relays themselves. This means you can also get away with using pretty thin/small gauge "switching" wires to the switch from the control side of the relays (six in total, one for each switch).

 

[grum]

i have the aux switches from the factory so i have the Aux PDC, but as stated earlier, they are only rated at 28 amps continuous.

i mounted the heavy duty (300 amp continuous duty) relays wired in parallel inside the front fender on the passenger side of the truck i you dont know they are there, you would more than likely never see them!

this is a link to the box i am using... bear in mind you will need a specialty crimper to crimp the terminals that come with this package..
waterproof relay / fuse box

crimper (use the A03BC die)

 

[Jimmy07]

i have the aux switches from the factory so i have the Aux PDC, but as stated earlier, they are only rated at 28 amps continuous.

i mounted the heavy duty (300 amp continuous duty) relays wired in parallel inside the front fender on the passenger side of the truck i you dont know they are there, you would more than likely never see them!

this is a link to the box i am using... bear in mind you will need a specialty crimper to crimp the terminals that come with this package..
waterproof relay / fuse box

crimper (use the A03BC die)

Keep in mind that as a whole, the current rating per circuit is only as good as the weakest link. The terminals supplied with that amazon box will only handle about 30 amps continuous.

 

[Brutal_HO]

my aux power to the bed of the truck is rated at 600 amps, and has heavy duty relays that will be controlled by a relay in this box which is in turn controlled by the aux switches.

If you're using the battery High Amp Power Port (HAPP), it's only rated to 300A. Are you running cable from both batts?

 

[grum]

Keep in mind that as a whole, the current rating per circuit is only as good as the weakest link. The terminals supplied with that amazon box will only handle about 30 amps continuous.

i agree, i have had success up to 40 amps, if i need more than that, i will either add another box that is identical to this box, this would allow me to parallel a set of relays for 60 amps continuous.
i am pretty sure i can source heavier duty terminals from mouser.com
i also know that 80 amp relays in this form factor are available, but they are rare, and would kinda defeat the reason i went with this style which can be found at any parts store across the country.

If you're using the battery High Amp Power Port (HAPP), it's only rated to 300A. Are you running cable from both batts?

currently i am only coming off of the passenger side battery at the battery post through the heavy duty relays. i will be using that for powering the 5th wheel rv as well as powering a winch etc on the equipment/car trailer. the wiring and relays are overkill and i will more than likely end up just using a single 300 amp circuit breaker instead of the dual parallel setup.

this would make the total capacity of the line 300amps. if i find the winch needs more than that, ill add another circuit breaker in parallel with the current 300 amp breaker.

if i am pulling directly off the positive battery terminal would i need to run another line over to the other battery? or is the oem wiring sufficient in your opinion?
for what its worth, i had this setup on my 2006 cummins 2500 and it worked well only coming off of the passenger side battery.

 

[Brutal_HO]

i agree, i have had success up to 40 amps, if i need more than that, i will either add another box that is identical to this box, this would allow me to parallel a set of relays for 60 amps continuous.
i am pretty sure i can source heavier duty terminals from mouser.com
i also know that 80 amp relays in this form factor are available, but they are rare, and would kinda defeat the reason i went with this style which can be found at any parts store across the country.


currently i am only coming off of the passenger side battery at the battery post through the heavy duty relays. i will be using that for powering the 5th wheel rv as well as powering a winch etc on the equipment/car trailer. the wiring and relays are overkill and i will more than likely end up just using a single 300 amp circuit breaker instead of the dual parallel setup.

this would make the total capacity of the line 300amps. if i find the winch needs more than that, ill add another circuit breaker in parallel with the current 300 amp breaker.

if i am pulling directly off the positive battery terminal would i need to run another line over to the other battery? or is the oem wiring sufficient in your opinion?
for what its worth, i had this setup on my 2006 cummins 2500 and it worked well only coming off of the passenger side battery.

I think the OEM cables are 1/0? that would carry 285A continuous.



Then there's this from the upfitter wiring diagrams: "Ground Studs on the chassis/frame may be utilized as a grounding point with a 50A Maximum total load,

All the upfitter docs show up to 40A on any OEM PDC circuits. The PDC itself uses 50A fuses on the BAT+ lines.

Upfitter docs do say that the 300A HAPP should be engine block grounded. If it were my truck and I was running a (heavy duty) winch from a trailer, or a wrecker rig, I'd think about running welding cable from the engine bay. But if you've done it before and had good results, send it.

 

[grum]

I am using welding cable from the engine bay for the positive, but I hadnt thought about the ground being an issue, I may install a jumper from engine block to frame made of welding lead as well. I appreciate the insight, it is much cheaper and easier to prevent an issue than it is to repair one!

 

[Distillusion]

Just a word about overload: The maximum stock power capacity of the truck is 440A - running dual 220A alternators on the diesel, or 360A if you're running dual 180A alts on the gasser. Any load higher than that will drain from the battery and drag the alternator voltage from 14V down to the battery level at 12V or lower. A theoretical 600A load would pull at least 160A continuous from the battery. (All assuming you're trying to run that kind of load while the engine running. )

I don't know what kind of protection is built into the voltage regulators Ram uses.

 

[grum]

Just a word about overload: The maximum stock power capacity of the truck is 440A - running dual 220A alternators on the diesel, or 360A if you're running dual 180A alts on the gasser. Any load higher than that will drain from the battery and drag the alternator voltage from 14V down to the battery level at 12V or lower. A theoretical 600A load would pull at least 160A continuous from the battery. (All assuming you're trying to run that kind of load while the engine running. )

I don't know what kind of protection is built into the voltage regulators Ram uses.

That's good info! Looks like I will probably use a 300 amp circuit breaker . I wanted that to be the absolute weakest link anyway. I am a big fan of overkill when dealing with wiring!

 

[Brutal_HO]

Just a word about overload: The maximum stock power capacity of the truck is 440A - running dual 220A alternators on the diesel, or 360A if you're running dual 180A alts on the gasser. Any load higher than that will drain from the battery and drag the alternator voltage from 14V down to the battery level at 12V or lower. A theoretical 600A load would pull at least 160A continuous from the battery. (All assuming you're trying to run that kind of load while the engine running. )

I don't know what kind of protection is built into the voltage regulators Ram uses.

I thought they were smart alternators now?

I thought the charge monitor on the battery and PCM controlled their output without external regulation, but I could be thinking of something else. CRS symptoms.

 

[Kingarthur13]

Hello,
I am new here so please don't shoot me for asking questions... I am afraid... very afraid from this thread. I purchased a 2019 ram 3500 limited in late nov last year with all the bells and whistles including the HD motor and air bags... with that said it did not have the aux switches (i assumed these were plug and play replacements) I immediately ordered the aux switch bank to replace the toggles, given mine has front and rear sensors, trailer brake, exhaust break air ride i had to find another Ram with the same features with the aux switch to even find the correct part code. I did after two hours with the parts dept. we ordered the bank, as someone else stated it was back ordered (at the time 15 other people wanted the same part) i can assume maybe some of those 15 were you guys LOL, well here is where i am... i gave the part and the truck to a ram dealership as they said they have to flash the truck to install the switch bank. yesterday they stated they installed the switch bank and they could not get it to work and asked me how i want to wire the switches and what i wanted to use them for ... not looking good... i have no idea if my trck has the PDC or wiring from what i am reading i am afraid it does not and the 182 dollars the dealer has to install this switch bank will be lost or they are going to find it is not possible to just swap the modules out.. I do have aux cab heater so i assume my truck does have a little hope of having the aux pdc, gathering info from others stating with the cab heater they had the pdc. am i doomed? can the dealer install this switch bank??? the service tech before i purchased the module stated he had installed them no problem before. is all this thrad only for DYi installs and not trucks given to a dealer to install? ty in advance for any help... if it works i will give you the info... if it does not... it would seem i will need a lot of help from you guys.

 

[Distillusion]

I thought they were smart alternators now?

I thought the charge monitor on the battery and PCM controlled their output without external regulation, but I could be thinking of something else. CRS symptoms.

Quite possible. I really haven't kept up. I would think the term smart might be way overkill, though.