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Automatic Regen too often

AH64ID said:
Generally, but certain driving conditions will close/reduce the EGR long before the DPF gets to temp to sustain passive regen.
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I have noticed that. Like when cruising without a lot of boost, then hit a small incline where the boost increases and egr decreases and EGT’s start going down. I figured it was an increase in air flow through the engine without a substantial increase in the amount of fuel.
 
OLEJOE said:
According to the research Ive done on this, the higher the percentage of biodiesel, the more soot and NO2 it emits. On a positive note, the biodiesel soot burns at a lower temperature or has a lower BET (break even temperature). All of these experiments were ran on a very small 4 cylinder turbo charged diesel engine. Likely burning a lot less fuel than our 6.7’s do and on a dynamometer with a constant load. Towing with my truck it doesn’t matter what percentage of biodiesel fuel is used. But as soon as you drop the trailer and start sightseeing, boom it starts building up. Hook back to the trailer and it’s back to zero in 50-100 miles.
I think if my EGTs could run 25-50 degrees higher than they do now at highway speeds, I would use more DEF but never have another soot based regen.
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I wonder if there is a way to hack the grid heater to turn on when the EGR is active....could heat up the air coming in? Might not be enough and might just cause the EGR to dump more in? Maybe a tune change is required?
 
TomTom said:
I wonder if there is a way to hack the grid heater to turn on when the EGR is active....could heat up the air coming in? Might not be enough and might just cause the EGR to dump more in? Maybe a tune change is required?
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I don’t think heating the intake air would be beneficial. Lowering the amount of EGR would increase combustion chamber temperature, increase fuel burn efficiency thus reducing the amount of soot generated, increase EGTs improving passive regen of the DPF and reduce the amount of soot being recycled through the engine.
It could possibly cause problems though because some of the soot particles wouldn’t be ground up as fine since it wouldn’t be continuously recycled going through the engine.
 
OLEJOE said:
I don’t think heating the intake air would be beneficial. Lowering the amount of EGR would increase combustion chamber temperature, increase fuel burn efficiency thus reducing the amount of soot generated, increase EGTs improving passive regen of the DPF and reduce the amount of soot being recycled through the engine.
It could possibly cause problems though because some of the soot particles wouldn’t be ground up as fine since it wouldn’t be continuously recycled going through the engine.
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Wouldn't heating the cooled air from the EGR as it goes into the engine help?
 
TomTom said:
Yeah ok, good point. I guess I wasn't aware that was a melting issue, I thought it was backing off or corroding from the soot.
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I don’t think the temperature is as important as the reduction of the available amount of oxygen for lowering combustion chamber temperature thus reducing the NOX output in the engine and EGTs.
However, this scenario is not in play as much when towing or working the engine harder. Under load and boost, EGR is greatly reduced and the NOX reduced in the SCR with DEF.
I think the same conditions could be achieved with a reduction in EGR when driven without the load and higher boost present.
 
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TomTom said:
Wouldn't heating the cooled air from the EGR as it goes into the engine help?
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No, you want as cold of air as possible for better/cleaner combustion. Colder air is more dense, so more oxygen to combust. Even cooled the EGR causes the intake air to be quite a bit warmer than what it would be without the EGR. During regen when the EGR is turned off the IAT drops quite a bit.
 
Question for the brain trust here.
I have a 2020 HO, we got it in 23 when the truck I ordered couldn't get built to pull a 16k lb 5th wheel. Up until last summer it ran well, I was in Virginia and got the dpf full going into limp mode message. Made it to a dealer, they did a forced regen, replaced all the filters crankcase breather, both fuel, and air(even though they were almost new) updated the computer and lightened my wallet by $1800. It got us back to Ohio. Since the software update it regens every 200 miles, today it started one at 100 miles, the regens last about 30 miles. This spring we pulled the camper about 7 hours through the PA hills, DPF gauge sat at zero (passive regen?) as soon as we were in the campground within 30 miles of city driving did an active regen again. Coming home I noticed that while the dash never showed it was doing an active regen, I went through a 1/4 tank of def. I don't plan on putting the truck on a diet, I have read where some states (NY state) are doing random emission checks on diesels and if you are not as from the factory you get fined and possibly impounded.

Also since the software "upgrade" I get a check engine light every couple of weeks, local auto parts store shows it as a P026B with "No verified fix" and it typically goes away after the next highway driving cycle.

Last summer I started running Archoil, did the 6400 and have been using the 6500 with every fuel tank. Hasn't helped. I don't know if this is how stelantis wants it or if my best option is leaving it somewhere with the keys in it. My son and brother all have duramax's with no issues,
 
Greg10yes said:
Question for the brain trust here.
I have a 2020 HO, we got it in 23 when the truck I ordered couldn't get built to pull a 16k lb 5th wheel. Up until last summer it ran well, I was in Virginia and got the dpf full going into limp mode message. Made it to a dealer, they did a forced regen, replaced all the filters crankcase breather, both fuel, and air(even though they were almost new) updated the computer and lightened my wallet by $1800. It got us back to Ohio. Since the software update it regens every 200 miles, today it started one at 100 miles, the regens last about 30 miles. This spring we pulled the camper about 7 hours through the PA hills, DPF gauge sat at zero (passive regen?) as soon as we were in the campground within 30 miles of city driving did an active regen again. Coming home I noticed that while the dash never showed it was doing an active regen, I went through a 1/4 tank of def. I don't plan on putting the truck on a diet, I have read where some states (NY state) are doing random emission checks on diesels and if you are not as from the factory you get fined and possibly impounded.

Also since the software "upgrade" I get a check engine light every couple of weeks, local auto parts store shows it as a P026B with "No verified fix" and it typically goes away after the next highway driving cycle.

Last summer I started running Archoil, did the 6400 and have been using the 6500 with every fuel tank. Hasn't helped. I don't know if this is how stelantis wants it or if my best option is leaving it somewhere with the keys in it. My son and brother all have duramax's with no issues,
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Stories like this make me want to keep my 2006, and just do some modifications to help it along, with heavier loads.
 
Greg10yes said:
Question for the brain trust here.
I have a 2020 HO, we got it in 23 when the truck I ordered couldn't get built to pull a 16k lb 5th wheel. Up until last summer it ran well, I was in Virginia and got the dpf full going into limp mode message. Made it to a dealer, they did a forced regen, replaced all the filters crankcase breather, both fuel, and air(even though they were almost new) updated the computer and lightened my wallet by $1800. It got us back to Ohio. Since the software update it regens every 200 miles, today it started one at 100 miles, the regens last about 30 miles. This spring we pulled the camper about 7 hours through the PA hills, DPF gauge sat at zero (passive regen?) as soon as we were in the campground within 30 miles of city driving did an active regen again. Coming home I noticed that while the dash never showed it was doing an active regen, I went through a 1/4 tank of def. I don't plan on putting the truck on a diet, I have read where some states (NY state) are doing random emission checks on diesels and if you are not as from the factory you get fined and possibly impounded.

Also since the software "upgrade" I get a check engine light every couple of weeks, local auto parts store shows it as a P026B with "No verified fix" and it typically goes away after the next highway driving cycle.

Last summer I started running Archoil, did the 6400 and have been using the 6500 with every fuel tank. Hasn't helped. I don't know if this is how stelantis wants it or if my best option is leaving it somewhere with the keys in it. My son and brother all have duramax's with no issues,
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There are a number of issues could cause it. Did they use OEM air filter? I know it was at a ram dealer but sometimes they use stellantis auto brand and it could throw the code. What does your oil level look like?
 
Dinky503 said:
There are a number of issues could cause it. Did they use OEM air filter? I know it was at a ram dealer but sometimes they use stellantis auto brand and it could throw the code. What does your oil level look like?
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Oil level i right at full. I run Rotella and have changed it according to the light. Most of my driving. Is highway and most is pulling heavy with my 5th wheel.Everything changed with the last software “upgrade” from Stanantis.
 
Greg10yes said:
Question for the brain trust here.
I have a 2020 HO, we got it in 23 when the truck I ordered couldn't get built to pull a 16k lb 5th wheel. Up until last summer it ran well, I was in Virginia and got the dpf full going into limp mode message. Made it to a dealer, they did a forced regen, replaced all the filters crankcase breather, both fuel, and air(even though they were almost new) updated the computer and lightened my wallet by $1800. It got us back to Ohio. Since the software update it regens every 200 miles, today it started one at 100 miles, the regens last about 30 miles. This spring we pulled the camper about 7 hours through the PA hills, DPF gauge sat at zero (passive regen?) as soon as we were in the campground within 30 miles of city driving did an active regen again. Coming home I noticed that while the dash never showed it was doing an active regen, I went through a 1/4 tank of def. I don't plan on putting the truck on a diet, I have read where some states (NY state) are doing random emission checks on diesels and if you are not as from the factory you get fined and possibly impounded.

Also since the software "upgrade" I get a check engine light every couple of weeks, local auto parts store shows it as a P026B with "No verified fix" and it typically goes away after the next highway driving cycle.

Last summer I started running Archoil, did the 6400 and have been using the 6500 with every fuel tank. Hasn't helped. I don't know if this is how stelantis wants it or if my best option is leaving it somewhere with the keys in it. My son and brother all have duramax's with no issues,
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If you're going to leave it somewhere I'll pm my address... ;)
From your description and code I'd guess fuel delivery / injection (cp4 still in it or recall to cp3 complete?)
Or fuel pressure regulation(ie rail pressure or injectors)
If you have a scantool I'd compare demanded vs actual pressure at the rail. Possible pressure regulator or pump issue.
If that passes then an injector return flow test to ensure they aren't the issue.
Lots of other possibilities can cause excessive regens... But since the truck is telling you injector timing performance, I'd start there (and upstream of them) good luck sir.
 
Greg10yes said:
Oil level i right at full. I run Rotella and have changed it according to the light. Most of my driving. Is highway and most is pulling heavy with my 5th wheel.Everything changed with the last software “upgrade” from Stanantis.
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When you refer to the “last software upgrade”, you are not referring to the over the air upgrades over Uconnect are you? I didn’t think those made any changes to engine management.
 
Out of idle curiosity, what would happen if somehow, through some mysterious quantum mechanical process, a 6 inch hole got bored straight through the DPF? Would the truck throw a code? Is it looking for a certain amount of back pressure?
 
Dodgeman said:
Out of idle curiosity, what would happen if somehow, through some mysterious quantum mechanical process, a 6 inch hole got bored straight through the DPF? Would the truck throw a code? Is it looking for a certain amount of back pressure?
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Yes, it would eventually detect that, and would set a P244A code
 
Dodgeman said:
Out of idle curiosity, what would happen if somehow, through some mysterious quantum mechanical process, a 6 inch hole got bored straight through the DPF? Would the truck throw a code? Is it looking for a certain amount of back pressure?
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Differential pressure sensor would pick it up along with the particulate matter sensor. Also your scr would clog. Delete takes tuning and exhaust work.
 
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