As far as I know they are not backwards, this is the only way they would fit. When I tried them the other way, the parking brake cables were in contact with the reservoirs. I prefer them this way anyway because the adjustment knob for the shock is protected inside the "pocket" of the shock mount. Its a little bit of a pain because you can barely reach the knob to adjust it and you cant see the direction arrows. It is also my understanding that in 2023 or 2024 the parking brake cables were changed in such a way that the relocation brackets Thuren provides arent necessary/dont work.
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Atl-atl's 2024 Tradesman 2500 Power Wagon "documentation" thread, now on 40s!!
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ramblinChet
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How did the instructions form Thuren detail them being mounted?
They didnt. Thurens instructions are terrible and they also havent been updated for the newer trucks. They even sent me the old brackets even though they arent needed for my truck.
ramblinChet
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Not sure if these will help but here are snapshots from AEV's directions - the shocks are indexed differently for the 2500 and 3500.
Complete instruction manual with torque specifications attached.
Complete instruction manual with torque specifications attached.
Fox’s instructions show them mounted the other way around.
My concern with the direction you have them is that the reservoir would impact the axle mount. It might not move enough for that though I suppose.
I agree with you about the Thuren parking brake brackets. On my ‘23 I was able to get the small parking brake cable bracket to work, but it required unbolting the parking brake cable mount from the top of the diff at the power hop shock mount. That kept the cable off the shock reservoir.
The longer bracket seemed unnecessary. I’ll be giving Thuren a call about all of this.
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These are mounted the same way I have mounted mine.
Your concern is valid, I had the same concern. The reservoir does not contact the axle though. Ive driven a couple thousand miles since installing them and flexed the truck with a forklift and offroad. The shocks dont contact the axle.
As for the Fox instructions, thats a pre2023 truck which has different parking brake cables routing so its not applicable to my situation.
Also I didnt have to do anything to the parking brake cables. Even at full droop they clear everything.
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dieselscout80
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I really like how little it sticks out vs most aftermarket bro-dozier bumpers.Well theres more!
I also (finally) got my front bumper, painted it, wired it up and installed it. Its from a company that I had not previously heard of called Chassis Unlimited. It took them 3 months to build but the quality is very high and their customer service is really good. They have quite a wide array of products, mostly ultra bro-dozer stuff but they make this bumper specifically for the 2019+ Power Wagon. I like it because it sits much more flush with the front of the truck and tucked up under the OEM winch. All the other companies out there make bumpers that work on the diesel trucks as well and they stick out much farther and lower to fit a winch around the larger intercooler and radiator the diesel trucks have. They also sell this bumper in raw steel or powder coat with is cool. I opted for raw steel because their powder coat is wrinkle textured which I cannot stand.
Typically I stuff like this powder coated from a local place where I can go and match the color I want as closely as possible. This time I decided to try some fancy spray paint so I got a few cans of Seymour industrial stength "high solids" flat black and it matches the factory plastic trim pieces extremely well. This picture is a good example.
Kinda hard to capture the full bumper because its quite contoured and there is a lot of black on this truck so contrast is hard to come by on an iphone. The bumper has a lot of cool little details. Its half way between a true bumper and a cover. It integrates the OEM winch/cradle/fairlead and has cutouts for the spool lever and controller connection. It also has cutouts for the OEM parking sensors and then obviously integrated tow hooks, light cutouts etc. The bumper is actually 3 pieces, the side "wings" bolt on but you basically have to assemble them before installing the bumper if you are going to run cube lights.
I trimmed the stock wheel well liners and used a torch and sledge hammer to mould them into a better place. Future plans are to make additional liners that tie into the front bumper to protect the back side of the fog lights.
What brand is it?
Do they make a version with a grille guard?
I wonder how it would look without the flairs and are your flairs the stock ones?
Good to know. You may tempt me to flip mine around since nothing hits anywhere.
The brand is Chassis Unlimited. They do make a very small "brush guard" that is optional. I chose not to get one because I dont like the looks of it. Yes my flares are stock Power Wagon flares.
Thanks! I have not gotten around to it yet. Ive got a newborn so all my projects came to a screeching halt. Im daily driving the truck though and it works great on the street with zero trimming and almost zero rub. Cant take a newborn offroad ha so Im not too worried about it right now. One of these days Ill get to it and will definitely post about it here.
So I've got a fix for the parking brake cable brackets. The larger bracket is not needed at all on 2019+ trucks. The listing says "2014-2024", but the details inside the listing actually say "The 2019+ trucks uses a rubber guide that functions fine with our added travel. The use of this bracket allows the cables to be less restricted, so we can add more suspension travel without kinking the E-Brake cable housing." So if you're not using the small bracket you don't need to do anything.
If you *want* to use the small bracket (I do so the cable doesn't hit my reservoir) they sent me updated instructions via text message that were a little confusing, but after reading them I used part of their instructions and came up with some better ones.
On the driver's side frame in front of the control arms unbolt the rubber mount for the right (currently upper) brake cable. This rubber mount can be cut off the cable, but I just flipped it upside down out of the way. It doesn't look like it's going to move or hit anything so I'm not worried about it. Unbolt the small bracket that's holding the left (currently lower) cable from the frame, move the right cable to below the nub the left cable was mounted to, then reattach the left cable mount to the spot you just removed it from. Basically you've just moved the right cable from above the left cable to below it.
Bend the clamp that's holding the right cable to the driver's side control arm open so you can pull the cable out of it. Slide the cable back a couple inches and then loosely re-clamp the bracket around it. I also wrapped a piece of split air hose around the cable for protection. See pics:
Before:
After:
Now you can move the bracket holding the right cable to the top of the diff over. Remove it from the front left bolt and attach it to the front right bolt. You could bend or grind off the little mounting tab so it'll fit on top, but I didn't want to modify it so I just put it under the mount, adding washers under the mount at the other 3 bolts to keep the mount level. The mount bolts torque to 40 ft-lbs, btw.
Now there's enough slack to follow the Thuren provided directions for the small bracket on the passenger side.
I've cycled the suspension up and down like this and can't find any binding or rubbing.
Wow, thank you for the incredibly detailed follow up!!
No problem!
Needless to say Ive been busy so I havent updated much here. Mostly just been driving the truck, has about 3500 miles now. Unfortunately it has developed quite the loud "tick" upon startup. Especially if its been sitting for 24 hours or longer. Initially I thought it was the dreaded lifter tick that these 6.4s are so prone to developing. The truck recently sat for 10 days in the 115+ degree heat in Phoenix and I made sure to record some video at "cold" startup. The sound is actually much louder on the underside of the engine which makes me think its actually not lifter tick. Could be exhaust related. Also notice the oil already seeping out from the bellhousing...
So I took it into the dealership where I bought it and when I pull in they immediately put a red cone on my windshield!?! Laughingly I asked the service writer if that was their way of flagging my truck for being modified. He said no, its just their way of letting each service writer know whose vehicle is theirs. Other guys have different color cones. The dealership is huge, Bill Luke in Phoenix AZ. So big that there are 3 lanes when you pull in for service and someone(that isnt a service writer) checks you in before your service writer even gets to you. But I digress.
And here is a pretty picture from downtown Flagstaff, jus cuz.
So I took it into the dealership where I bought it and when I pull in they immediately put a red cone on my windshield!?! Laughingly I asked the service writer if that was their way of flagging my truck for being modified. He said no, its just their way of letting each service writer know whose vehicle is theirs. Other guys have different color cones. The dealership is huge, Bill Luke in Phoenix AZ. So big that there are 3 lanes when you pull in for service and someone(that isnt a service writer) checks you in before your service writer even gets to you. But I digress.
And here is a pretty picture from downtown Flagstaff, jus cuz.
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
When I was getting startup tick a few thousand miles after an oil change i decided to change from mopar filters to wix xp and I no longer have startup tick after a few thousand miles and can ride the full interval
Interesting. I have not yet changed the oil for the first time. Where was your tick coming from? The lifters?
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
Whatever cold start tick comes from if the oil has drained back down