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Atl-atl's 2024 Tradesman 2500 Power Wagon "documentation" thread, now on 40s!!

First and foremost I simply dont want them. There are a number of reasons why. They are extremely wide, adding something like 8” to the width of an already huge truck. They require different offset wheels than I want to run. They make the wheel opening so enormous that 40s look small. Also “everyone is doing it” has never been the way I go about my business. I see Prospector XLs daily in Arizona and dont want to be another one. I would have just bought a Prospector XL if I wanted one. Ive never seen a Power Wagon on 40s in real life and only a couple on the internet. I like the look of the stock Power Wagon flares and want to keep the truck as close to factory looking as possible with the exception of the front bumper, and much larger tires obviously haha. I like fabricating and modifying things, making them my own and being different.
Understandable. I definitely wasn't suggesting them because "everybody's doing it", just that it seems like a lot of work and potential risk to try to get it to work. It's not that their way must be the only or best way, it's just that I'm sure they put a lot of time into figuring it out. I just worry that once you get all that cutting done you're going to run into other problems, like the washer bottle, the wiring harnesses, and structural rigidity issues. I'm also not sure you're going to have anything left of that stock flare by the time you get enough cut for it not to rub. Best of luck though, I'm curious to see what you come up with.

40s have a big gap with the AEV flares because they're actually sized for 42s, even though that's a pretty rare size for anyone to run.
 
Understandable. I definitely wasn't suggesting them because "everybody's doing it", just that it seems like a lot of work and potential risk to try to get it to work. It's not that their way must be the only or best way, it's just that I'm sure they put a lot of time into figuring it out. I just worry that once you get all that cutting done you're going to run into other problems, like the washer bottle, the wiring harnesses, and structural rigidity issues. I'm also not sure you're going to have anything left of that stock flare by the time you get enough cut for it not to rub. Best of luck though, I'm curious to see what you come up with.

40s have a big gap with the AEV flares because they're actually sized for 42s, even though that's a pretty rare size for anyone to run.
I understand where you're coming from. After putting on my current suspension and seeing how much room there is, I dont have a concern at all about rubbing. In fact, I could leave it as is and wheel it hard with very minimal rubbing. Certainly less rubbing than my Tacoma on 37s which had TONS of massaging of the wheel wells. I think there is a middle ground between the AEV flares(that were designed to have an OEM level of clearance, i.e. overkill) and whats actually necessary for 40s in the real world. Surprisingly very few people have done this on a truck that has been around for decades, has massive aftermarket support and has been produced in the millions. I could be wrong but Im pretty sure Im going to wind up with a very stock looking truck on 40s that wheels hard and doesnt rub. Also, I havent touched the frame so there wont be any structural issues. Its a 3/4 ton truck with a fully boxed frame. Trimming a few inches of sheet metal in the wheel well will have precisely zero effect on the truck, other than gaining tire clearance.
 
I understand where you're coming from. After putting on my current suspension and seeing how much room there is, I dont have a concern at all about rubbing. In fact, I could leave it as is and wheel it hard with very minimal rubbing. Certainly less rubbing than my Tacoma on 37s which had TONS of massaging of the wheel wells. I think there is a middle ground between the AEV flares(that were designed to have an OEM level of clearance, i.e. overkill) and whats actually necessary for 40s in the real world. Surprisingly very few people have done this on a truck that has been around for decades, has massive aftermarket support and has been produced in the millions. I could be wrong but Im pretty sure Im going to wind up with a very stock looking truck on 40s that wheels hard and doesnt rub. Also, I havent touched the frame so there wont be any structural issues. Its a 3/4 ton truck with a fully boxed frame. Trimming a few inches of sheet metal in the wheel well will have precisely zero effect on the truck, other than gaining tire clearance.
I meant rigidity of the cab, not the frame. Your description sounded like you were planning to cut a pretty big chunk out of that corner?
 
I meant rigidity of the cab, not the frame. Your description sounded like you were planning to cut a pretty big chunk out of that corner?
Ahh, no it wont be a big chunk. Just a slice and a push back and then a reattachment. If Im able to pull off what I can see in my head it will be indistinguishable except for the most trained eye. And it will all be hidden behind the wheel well liner.
 
Ahh cool, ok, that makes sense. Post lots of pics!
 
This is the exact suspension set up I'm eyeballing for my Rebel, only I'm planning to stop at 37's.

Your set up is really making me rethink that though!

Beautiful build so far! Kudos

What bumper are you going with?
 
This is the exact suspension set up I'm eyeballing for my Rebel, only I'm planning to stop at 37's.

Your set up is really making me rethink that though!

Beautiful build so far! Kudos

What bumper are you going with?
Thanks! I got a Chassis Unlimited Power Wagon specific bumper in raw steel and Im going to make some mods to and then powder coat it. Ordered it in November. It was supposed to be done by the end of January. Still haven’t received it.‍
 
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Gotta love it!

I added the Vice Design hidden winch to mine since the Rebel wasn't available with a Power Wagon style winch option.

I added a Randy Ellis Design light bar to it for some extra grill protection and extra lighting.
I really like the factory bumper so the only reason I'd go aftermarket is clearance and approach angle. I'd be very interested to see what you have in mind for your bumper. I may have respectfully copy your idea!
 
Well I havent gotten around to trimming yet. I also still havent gotten my front bumper. So Ive been busy working on other(mostly non Ram) projects. I did get my topper installed(Leer 100XR with keyless entry, carpeted headliner, side slider windows, removable front slider window) and put in a Bedrug as well as sealing the crap out of the bed, tailgate and topper door. Its quite cozy in there now. I dont know if its ever possible to make one of these fiberglass toppers totally dust proof but Im about as close as I think you can get.
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The fitment is slightly off in this pic. You can see at the drivers rear corner its sticking out. I adjusted it a little and it looks better now.
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For the bed, I used backer rod to plug the larger holes and then siliconed them into place. I know I know silicone will be a pain in the future if I ever want to remove it but I dont care about that. I wanted it to be as weather proof as possible. I also learned the Billet Silver is nearly identical to duct tape hahaha
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Looks nice! It's not going to be fun to get that spare out of there should you need it!
 
After putting about a thousand miles on the truck after installing the lift I decided to get off road and flex it out a little to see exactly whats working/not working, where I need to trim, check for interference etc. Im pleasantly surprised by the outcome. My biggest concern has been the front axle location. Pushing it forward 1.5 inches is quite a bit but Im happy to report that I have no major issues. All moving parts are clear of each other; track bar, axle, steering components, shocks etc. It all clears which I really cant believe. If I had an aftermarket diff cover it might hit the track bar but it would depend on the shape. I thought I would be having to custom fab a frame side track bar mount but its not needed. Everything seems to work great. Truck still flexes to the bumps and behaves correctly driving at speed.

There is one thing that really needs to be tended, the front bump stops. Only about 50% of the rubber contacts the bump pad on axle and there is a hard brake line that is pretty close to touching. The brake line actually just clears and the bump still hits the pad but Im not super happy with it. That being said, I could 100% get away with doing super minimal trimming, similar to what a stock truck running 37s needs. For now Ive actually left it alone and Im just driving the truck because I have some other plans in the works. One of those plans is to have a machine shop make me new "pucks" for the Synergy radius drops that only move the axle forward 1 inch. This would be the easiest way for me to accomplish getting the bumps to hit the axle pad in the correct spot while still having the axle forward enough to not need much trimming. Ive got a buddy who does exactly this type of thing for work and a few weeks ago we were chatting about exactly how to accomplish it and it seems pretty simple. Fast forward to KOH and I was talking to the guys in the Synergy booth who brought up the exact same idea. So I think Im going to move forward with it. More to come on that later.

Here are the flexed out pics. In these the front is not quite on the bumps but close enough for me to get the info I needed. The front coils actually look great given the 1.5" stretch. They look at least as good as stock and with the Carli weld in coil retainers Im not at all worried about the springs walking away. The rear isnt even close to the bumps and thats fine, theres a lot less trimming work to be done in the rear to fit the 40s.

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Well Im back, sorta! Been a little busy with the birth of our first child but I did manage to finish some projects before he came. I ran out of time to make posts about it but now that we are settling in and Im forced to be away from the shop(sitting at home with baby) Ive got some time to be on the computer.

For starters I installed passive entry handles for all 4 doors and the tailgate. It was quite expensive but I love having it so the price of entry was worth it for me. One thing I wish I would have done was get black door handles instead of silver. I really like the contrasting black trim pieces on the Tradesman trim trucks but Ram doesnt make textured black handles with passive entry. So I ordered color matched billet silver ones only to realize I probably could have gone with painted black handles and gotten the original look out of it, oh well. Im not going to post a writeup because there are tons of them out there. I used all OEM parts except for the wiring harness which I got from @Jimmy07

Next up was installing my Switch Pros 9100. Since Power Wagons cant be made to work with OEM aux switches I decided to run a 9100. I had a very similar setup in my old Tacoma and liked it so I went ahead with it. Originally I purchased the SDHQ mounting kit for a 9100 in a 19+ HD Ram but I didnt wind up using all of it. Its a nice kit and I did use part of it, their switch panel mounting piece, which is just an OEM trim piece that they laser cut to work with the 9100 switch panel. It would be nice, in the future, to figure out how to wire the power steps override switch to the 9100. Im not sure if its possible to get a 3 pole switch to work with a 9100. If someone has seen a writeup for that, please post it!
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The part of the SDHQ kit that I didnt use is the mount for the 9100 brain, which mounts right behind the driver headlight. I hate messy wires so I wanted to build something cleaner looking than whats out there for these trucks. This required some fabrication because I wanted to copy the setup I had from Powertrays that incorporates an additional fuse block, bus bar and mount for the Switchpros brain. The problem was where to put it under the hood. I spent a day or so messing around with some locations and landed on the area right above the fuse box. This required some ingenuity however, because you still need to access the fuse/relay box below. So I got a sheet of 1/8" aluminum and went to town. Here is what I wound up with. The parts are bolted on in this pic when I was testing fitment.
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Here I am wiring up everything.
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A few things to note here. I used the power wire that Switch Pros supplies with their kit, its fused which is good. I ran it straight from the battery to the unit. Its cool that there are multiple hot posts on the battery from the factory that are under their own little hinged cover. Makes adding accessories a breeze.
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I did not put an inline fuse to my Blue Sea fuse block. I bought a dual MRBF terminal fuse block but didnt wind up using it. I would have had to cut a lot of plastic off the battery compartment so decided against it for a cleaner look. Since everything that will be wired to the fuse block has its own fuse, in theory if the line feeding the block from the battery were to pop, the individual accessory fuses would also pop so the only thing that should blow would be a couple feet of wire and some fuses. Anyway, Im not worried about that happening. The Switch Pros brain is fused and thats the most important/expensive part.

Here it is all complete. Im considering making a run of these and selling them if there is enough interest. I think the diesel trucks have the same battery location/orientation/setup so this should work for both gas and diesel. Not sure if Im going to powder coat it or leave it raw aluminum. Right now the only accessory I have wired to the fuse block are my power steps. Some day soon Ill install OBA and wire it to the fuse block/9100. Not sure what else Ill have in the future but its nice to have more than you need.
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The mount I made is 3 pieces, completely clears the fuse box lid and is 100% removable and returnable to stock with no modification to the truck needed. There is a plate on the right side that mounts underneath OEM fasteners. I used nutserts and threaded nobs to hold the main plate in place. Then the left side is a vertical post that mounts using the brake fluid reservoir bolt. There is a stainless steel piano hinge that allows the accessory plate to be hinged upward for access to the fuse box.
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Congrats on the kid. Mount looks great.

Which fuses are you running fuse taps to and to trigger what?
Thanks! The three wires you see in the fuse box are all for the Switch Pros. Blue is ignition. White is user selectable back lighting. Pink is universal trigger. Im not using pink currently. I think most people use it for aftermarket backup lights. As for which fuses are doing what, here is a diagram of whats tapped.
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Keep a tarp under the rear seat. Handy for many things in a pinch
I do keep a tarp in the kit! Thanks for the suggestion though.
 
Well theres more!

I also (finally) got my front bumper, painted it, wired it up and installed it. Its from a company that I had not previously heard of called Chassis Unlimited. It took them 3 months to build but the quality is very high and their customer service is really good. They have quite a wide array of products, mostly ultra bro-dozer stuff but they make this bumper specifically for the 2019+ Power Wagon. I like it because it sits much more flush with the front of the truck and tucked up under the OEM winch. All the other companies out there make bumpers that work on the diesel trucks as well and they stick out much farther and lower to fit a winch around the larger intercooler and radiator the diesel trucks have. They also sell this bumper in raw steel or powder coat with is cool. I opted for raw steel because their powder coat is wrinkle textured which I cannot stand.

Typically I stuff like this powder coated from a local place where I can go and match the color I want as closely as possible. This time I decided to try some fancy spray paint so I got a few cans of Seymour industrial stength "high solids" flat black and it matches the factory plastic trim pieces extremely well. This picture is a good example.
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Kinda hard to capture the full bumper because its quite contoured and there is a lot of black on this truck so contrast is hard to come by on an iphone. The bumper has a lot of cool little details. Its half way between a true bumper and a cover. It integrates the OEM winch/cradle/fairlead and has cutouts for the spool lever and controller connection. It also has cutouts for the OEM parking sensors and then obviously integrated tow hooks, light cutouts etc. The bumper is actually 3 pieces, the side "wings" bolt on but you basically have to assemble them before installing the bumper if you are going to run cube lights.

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I trimmed the stock wheel well liners and used a torch and sledge hammer to mould them into a better place. Future plans are to make additional liners that tie into the front bumper to protect the back side of the fog lights.
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I don’t know how I missed this before, but I was going through your pics to confirm something for my front reservoir mounts, and noticed that your rear shocks were installed backwards on one of your early pics. I assume you turned them around after? Or is there something I don’t know?

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