2021 RAM 3500 Tradesman | AEV Prospector | FWC Grandby

[Riz!]

This is by far THE BEST THREAD in any forum on any topic that I have ever read! @ramblinChet you are living an adventure most of us only dream about or read about! Keep it coming. If you ever hit Marylands Eastern Shore, camp at Assateague Island or at the Assateague National Seashore. Its amazing. Wild horses everywhere.

 

[ramblinChet]

Over the next few weeks things are going to become quite interesting; I am going to begin to unravel my plans for something that I have not seen done before. Throughout my life I have always enjoyed identifying potential problems, and also suggesting effective solutions, while giving consideration to time, money, and effort. I fix things.

In this case I needed to create a cooling solution for the Victron Energy components I would soon be installing inside of a Zarges aluminum box. Although these components are very efficient they still produce heat, and when current flows through a wire, heat is created also. All these things may seem minor but they stack up, and when you are operating in austere conditions, and components are really being worked hard, that is the worst time to experience a failure.

Oh, and don't forget I am bolting a Wallas Nordic DT diesel stove/heater onto the lid so there will be more heat created there. After a few hours of calculations considering how much heat can be created I outlined several cooling system options. My choice was a simple system that is all 12 volt DC, uses off-the-shelf components, has significant variability, and a massive safety factor. Time will tell if my calculations were correct!

The first piece of this system will be an Inkbird ITC-1000 Temperature Controller.


Below are a few additional components I ordered mixed in with others that solve additional issues I will discuss in the future. Pay particular attention to the Mollom 120mm hole saw, Noctua fan grills, two Noctua 120mm PWM (pulse width modulated) fans, and Noctua NA-FC1 PWM fan controller. In summary, the Inkbird will monitor temperature inside the case and if applicable, will notify the fan controller to initiate cooling, and as you might have already guessed, the fan controller will control the fans.

My calculations suggested that one 120mm fan would be sufficient provided there was additional ventilation to provide cooler air. Since I had so much of the system already purchased, adding one additional fan was only slightly more. One fan will push while the other pulls. I am expecting the volume of air in the case to be replaced dozens of times per minute at full capacity. It will draw very little and be whisper quiet.


Switching gears, I am also creating a more permanent installation of my ExtremeAire Magnum 12 volt air compressor. Since this will be a permanent installation I would like to include a filter to clean up that "hot, dirty, and wet" air being produced. An FRL system (Filter, Regulator, and Lubrication) combines different components with varying capacities, for many applications. In my case I will not be running air tools so there is no need for lubrication, and another part of my system already regulates the pressure, so a filter is all I require.

With my compressor being 1.5 HP and pushing a maximum of 6 CFM at zero PSI, the Milton 1/4" NPT Metal Mini Micro Filter (1144M) was the filter I selected.



Here are the order details so I am able to track my expenses and use this information for reference purposes in the future. Notice also the fine Milton tire stem valve caps which contain an o-ring inside, very cool. And don't forget yet another 110 Vac plug, the correct mounting bracket (S-1163-22), and brass male nipples.



Some time ago I purchased a pair of Diode Dynamics SS3 pod lights along with AEV brackets so I could mount lights in my rear bumper. This is especially helpful off-road, at night, while backing up. I won't go into any details right now but the DD SS3s would not fit properly and instead of reinventing the wheel, I purchased a pair Baja Designs Squadron Sport LED Auxiliary lights with Work Scene glass, that AEV designed the system with.

Initially, I began to design a different bracket, reroute the rear facing wiring, etc. After a few hours, I considered that time was critical so I ordered the Baja Designs LEDs - problem solved.



Now we begin the deconstruction of the existing electrical system. This OEM Four Wheel Camper wooden box housed a Blue Sea Systems accessory panel and since my new system will occupy the same space, and a new accessory panel will be installed elsewhere, these components had to go.


Opening the cabinet down below, adjacent to the door, reveals the OEM 70 Ah AGM battery that has been worked hard over the past several years. Two 12V 100 Ah LiFePO4 batteries will soon occupy spaces 1 and 2 - it is nice that FWC has included all the space and parts necessary to mount a second battery. The red mark in the upper-left corner is where I will be drilling a 51mm hole and trust me, I measured about ten times before I even considered placing a bit into the drill motor.

The placement of this hole is important since a NOCO AC Port Plug (GCP1) will be mounted here. When oriented properly, the extension comes in and faces downward so it must make a 180° turn and head back up where it will connect with an outlet on the side of the Zarges case. When you consider the NOCO plug is only 16-inches long, there's much to do with just a little.


Of course, the hole turned out just fine - my measurements were correct. I don't understand why but drilling a hole into a new vehicle or camper give me great satisfaction. My guess is that once this action is taken, there is no going back, and I like to operate that way. As Julius Caesar said after crossing the Rubicon River, "Alea iacta est."


NOCO AC port plug installed, tested, and now operational.


Even though I am home for a few weeks I am sleeping every night in my camper. It's hard to explain but I enjoy sleeping outside and for the past six to seven years I have closed my eyes virtually every night outdoors. As the sun was rising this morning and my eyes began to open, these beautiful shadows fell upon the sailcloth of of my camper so I wanted to share this relaxing and peaceful picture with you. My goal is to get you outdoors more frequently so you can live a joyful life.

When you see the Southern Cross for the first time, you understand now why you came this way...

 

[ramblinChet]

While home and upgrading my AEV Prospector and Four Wheel Camper I am also taking the time to perform maintenance. Every few months I intentionally consume as much food and drink in my National Luna 80L Legacy refrigerator, dispose of the old, and clean it inside and out. Sometimes there is a frost buildup around the inside and as the frost layer thickens, the five plastic baskets become increasingly difficult to remove.

My quick solution in to grab my Snow Joe brass bladed ice scraper to clear off the frost and it works perfect. It is important for me to carry tools and equipment that can serve multiple purposes since space is limited. If you are considering purchasing a refrigerator make sure to take your time, review all the major and minor details, and consider selecting one size larger than you believe you will need. These plastic baskets might seem like no big deal but they ended up convincing me that National Luna was perfect for my application. Thermal efficiency (low power consumption) and robust design were key metrics for me.


Since I will soon be removing large bolts underneath my vehicle and most have light surface rust, I decided investing a penetrating lubricant might be a good idea. My plan is to hit the bolts and nuts the night before work begins, hit them again the next morning, and then maybe an hour before I start to disassemble. I took some time to watch a few videos comparing different brands of penetrating oil and although there was some difference noted, it was minor in my opinion, so I grabbed what was readily available.


While preparing to install the Baja Designs Squadron Sport LED Auxiliary lights with Work Scene glass into my AEV rear bumper, it was necessary to disassemble this connection so I could feed the bare wires through pre-drilled holes in the bumper. I didn't have the correct electrical tool to disassemble these tiny little inserts so I used a small flat-head screwdriver, pushed it deep into the plastic connector, flattened out the barbs, and removed the wires. Afterwards I used a tiny piece of round tool steel to pry under the barbs and bend them back out. I didn't like doing this but I was not going to spend time and effort locating the proper disassembly tool, order it, etc. Although I still have much work to accomplish I really want to be back on the road soon.


Here are a few photographs of how the AEV Premium Rear Bumper utilizes a modular construction method and pre-plans for options such as auxiliary light installation. There are six M8x1.5 bolts that hold on each of the corner tanks in place with half of them being easy access while the other half require moderate effort. The AEV Rear Bumper Auxiliary Light Kit includes options for the brackets (which I used), a lighting harness which connects directly to OEM auxiliary switches, and the proper Baja Designs lights.

Everything fit perfectly and the design of the bumper, light brackets, tanks, etc., is pure class. My only regret is that I didn't have these lights installed during my build a few years ago.


Since I already had ordered a significant amount of Ancor marine grade tinned-copper wire I planned to create my own harness for my lights. After viewing the connections and seals it was obvious the 12 AWG wire I planned to use was just too thick so I thought should I order the AEV harness or order additional thinner wire?

I guess I like wire and building harness so much I ordered two spools of Ancor 16 AWG to add to my collection. Honestly, it will be used for other purposes soon such as extensions from existing wiring for lights and fans, to the Blue Sea Systems Blade Fuse Block that will be mounted inside my Zarges aluminum box.


While organizing my soon-to-be-installed parts I came upon the LockNFlate locking air chuck that I planned to install on my Milton Air Chuck Inflator Gauge. That little tube there is LOCTITE 565 that I use for thread sealing between low pressure fittings. I first removed the Safety Grip Clip off the air chuck to expose two flat surfaces so I was able to use a wrench. I then removed the remainder of the air chuck from the line only to find a beautiful 3/8"x24 TPI male end underneath. That would not work with the 1/4" FNPT on the LockNFlate and I was surprised to see these threads being used so this was something new to me.


I searched the Milton catalog expecting a find a brass adapter and was disappointed I was unable to locate one. Next step was to search the LockNFlate site for additional information and I was happy to discover a custom fitting they had manufactured specifically to connect their component to a Milton 500 series inflator gauge. Seconds later my order was confirmed.


Here is an initial design consideration for the layout of gauges and control on the face of my Zarges box which contains all of my electronic systems. My goal is to arrange this using core principals of aircraft cockpit design - this would include logical grouping, hierarchy of importance, symmetry and flow, separation of systems, and accessibility. Of course, there will be trade-offs and possibly changes but here is my initial layout.

Right now I am assigning priority to the top row as a mission-critical, or power and health zone, in accordance with logical grouping. The BMV-712 will provide battery status, Inkbird is for thermal protection, and MPPT Control is for solar input - think hierarchy of importance. Using a top down, left-to-right scan, I will first check BMV-712 (status), Inkbird (safety), then MPPT (input). It’s a natural progression from overall power state to the conditions ensuring its reliability.

The next row down will be where my hands will be, this is kind of like a "master switch bank" where I will most likely install of a few toggle switches off to the left or right side. This is an example of separation of systems since this is where my hands can plug things in, remove them, flip a switch, etc. and not obscure my view of the critical gauges above. The DC voltmeter came with the package and is a minor gauge in this application.

As I stated in my previous post, I promise to make things interesting while doing things that have not been done before in this industry. Mounting all of the electronics inside a premium aluminum box, creating a pulse-width-modulated temperature control system for the electronics, arranging gauges and control on the exterior of the box to mimic the logic and layout of an aircraft cockpit. We are just getting started folks...still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest...

 

[Brutal_HO]

Lock-N-Lube is a great company with great products.

I encourage anyone looking to buy similar to avoid the chicom knock-offs and support this US based company.

You can also get a discount (via code) through your GovX ID account.

 

[ramblinChet]

My research indicates that failure of the A-pillar Molding in RAM trucks is not uncommon. Mine began to progressively fail months ago and it became so loose and weak that I stopped using it since my greatest concern would be one day having it fail and leaving me flat on the ground with a potential injury. After removing the A-pillar molding that was only marginally useful I recognized the design failure and hoped this has been corrected. BTW - that white rolled up fabric on the left side is an airbag.


Once I began using the Google to poke around the interweb I discovered both the original Mopar part (#6NF75TX7AD) and a revision (#7KF73TX7AA), were available. Based upon the new part number I suspected a significant revision had taken place so I took a chance and ordered the possibly updated part. Below you can see the original part up top while the revised part is below. The inset picture within the original part displays a common failure point while the inset within the revised part shows the reinforcement in the same area. It will be interesting to see if this new variant permanently corrects the issue or not.


Here is my beautiful new A-pillar Molding installed. While preparing to place my order I checked pricing from a half-dozen parts suppliers and saved 25% with ten minutes of effort. Interestingly, the price for the actual part was less at all other sites except one, but shipping was 150-200% higher at all others.

• $50.14 + $09.84 = $59.98 (moparonlineparts)
• $45.20 + $15.99 = $61.19 (worldpartsdirect)
• $47.68 + $15.35 = $63.03 (moparpartsonsale)
• $47.88 + $18.92 = $66.80 (tascaparts)
• $48.90 + $19.55 = $68.45 (mymoparparts)
• $68.50 + $12.01 = $80.51 (mopar)

Shading my interior is a Cover Craft UVS100 Premier Series Custom Sunscreen that I have enjoyed for the past 1.5 years. After another year or so I will provide a full report although at this point I have used it enough times that I am happy I spent the money.


Now that I have the Baja Designs backup lights installed in the AEV rear bumper, it was time to wire everything up. I briefly considered ordering the pre-configured wiring harness directly from AEV but since I already had the supplies and the harness alone was $185, I decided to build my own. On the left you can see the Ancor 16 AWG marine grade tinned copper wire (red and black) that would be used. On the right you see the Mopar Aux Switch Upfitter Wiring Kit (#68398184AB) that came with my truck. If you have the auxiliary switches there is important information contained within this kit so attached to this post you will find JPGs of the information for reference purposes.

Down at the bottom you will see a roll of Tesa Triple A 51036 flag-resistant PET cloth tape which "provides excellent abrasion protection of automotive harnesses and withstands high temperatures and demanding environmental conditions." The tape is wrapped over top of black Electriduct 1/4" Flame Retardant Wire Loom Tubing Polypropylene Split Corrugated Conduit (5.5mm ID) that surrounds the Ancor wiring. "This polypropylene wire loom is used to protect and organize wire harnesses, harness assemblies, loose cable bundles, and is ideal for automotive and industrial applications." The roll of PP conduit was 100' so I did not include it in this picture.


Some of the Ancor products I used for building this wiring harness - on the left is an Ancor Heat Shrink Terminals & Connector Kit (#320101) and on the right is Ancor Heat Shrink Tubing Kit (#330101). Tool used include Ancor Single Crimp Ratchet Tool (#703010), Wire & Cable Cutter (#703005), Klein heavy-duty wire strippers (#K12035), Bosch 15-amp professional heat gun, and others. Of course, you can spend less money and maybe the items you receive are fine. For my purposes, by default I usually search for the best within reason. for electrical components this is especially true and ultimately I consider it the price you must pay for some additional safety. The last event I am interested in experiencing is a fire inside my camper while sleeping alone miles away from any help. It just isn't worth it to me so the few extra dollars and attention to detail are well worth it.


With the harness complete I was excited to see the lights finally come to life. Whomever at AEV came up with the idea of including integrated lights as part of the rear bumper deserves a firm handshake and pat on the back. The inset picture up top simply shows an Ancor heat shrink connector properly installed. Note the proper crimp ratchet tool did not damage any of the heat shrink and the adhesive inside the heat shrink was heated up to a temperature where the bonding agent began to weep from the ends signifying proper application. The inset on the bottom depicts the same wire from the Mopar Aux Switch Upfitter Wiring Kit attached to Ancor 16 AWG wire, encased in Electriduct, heatshrink applied, and waiting to be wrapped with Tesa cloth tape.

Note - the two wires off to the left are 40' extensions connecting my house battery to my solar panels sitting out in the sunlight in front.


Of course I ventured out at night to test the newly installed rear bumper lights and was happy with their performance. Unfortunately, I was unable to manually control the digital aperture, shutter speed, and ISO on the camera inside my phone so you must keep in mind the images you see are not as accurate as real life. In short, if the scene appears dark the phone exposes for a longer period to make it lighter, and vice-versa.

The top row is looking out the drivers window at the side mirror and seeing what is behind the truck. On the left is a picture taken with only the OEM black-up lights mounted in the LED tail lights. These do a good job but are nothing compared to the picture on the upper right which includes the AEV/Baja Designs rear bumper lights. The bottom row represents the same scenario when viewing my OEM back up camera through my dash mounted Uconnect 8.4". That unit attempts to do the same as the camera by increasing the exposure on dimly lit scenes while underexposing scenes that are well lit. I am happy with the performance and only wish I would have had these installed when my AEV Prospector was built years ago.


And finally, a tip of the hat to the fine folks at LockNLube for selling the proper brass coupling the connect their LockNFlate locking air chuck to my Milton 500 series inflator gauge. The white residue you see around the fittings is LOCTITE 565 which is a "general purpose thread sealant for an instant low-pressure seal." Once again, it only costs a few dollars more and takes a few extra minutes. I'm worth it and so are you...

...tryna make ends meet, you're a slave to money then you die...

 

[ramblinChet]

My Diode Dynamics SS3 SAE White Max LED Pods with Combo beam patterns, serving as A-pillar lights, required replacement since the exterior coating had faded and even began to separate in areas. This confused me since I had other Diode Dynamics installed at the same time and they all appeared to be fine despite being exposed to the same conditions. The inset picture on the lower-right is the MWR Auto-Hobby Shop at the Coast Guard Training Center here in Yorktown - I visit here sometimes when working on my vehicle. The shop has a full selection of Snap-On tools, three vehicle lifts, several open bays, a tire changing machine, etc.


For reference - here is the warranty claim submitted through Diode Dynamics. All it took was a simple phone call, a few minutes talking with a young professional at their headquarters in St. Louis, and him confirming that years ago they had a few bad batches of product produced that later showed signs of coating failure, and I was supplied with a warranty repair number. I mailed my lights in and days later new ones were mailed back to me. All the premium lighting manufacturers such as Baja Designs, Diode Dynamics, Rigid, have great products with a great warranty.


Here's another shot taken on another day of the Auto-Hobby Shop on base. This time I was going to begin swapping my AEV/Bilstein 5100 series shock absorbers for AEV/Bilstein XP8100 Remote Reservoir shocks. When I was discussing the original build configuration with AEV in 2021 they hinted that the 8100s were possibly going to be available in a year or so but I wanted to run the 5100s for a few years anyway and then swap over so I could measure the difference, if any, based upon my experience. This simple swap turned out to be a bit more challenging than expected although in the end, everything turned out just fine.


Here are shots of the rear shocks going in which I predicted were going to be more difficult when compared to the fronts due to the fact that the factory spare tire had been removed and replaced with a larger Titan 30-gallon Spare Tire Auxiliary Fuel System. After spending time laying under my truck and examining the relationship between the conventional 5100s and considering how the 8100s with a piggy-back reservoir would fit - I was concerned with the shock contacting the Titan tank while the axle articulated. Despite my concerns, there are no issues and everything fits well. Whew!

The inset picture up top shows the 5100 preparing to be removed - you can see the tank just off to the left and then bulging out down to the lower-left. Maybe I worry too much but my argument is, I would rather identify and resolve a potential problem on my own schedule instead of being forced to deal with it on the side of a trail, without any warning. Spending a few more minutes during installation can potentially save hours of grief down the road. The inset picture on the lower-right depicts the bottom of an 8100 about to be snugged down and then torqued to 110 pound-feet. Also, make sure to use Anti-Seize Lubricant during reassembly.


Harbor Freight was my solution for being in a pinch and requiring a 4-1/2" angle grinder and grinding wheel for five minutes worth of work. Thirty-five years ago I purchase a premium angle grinder and up until maybe five years ago, I still owned it and used it on occasion. But as I grow older I use certain tools less frequently and give them to my son or others who can make better use of them. In this case, the simplest and best solution was under $20 and only a few minutes away. My logic was that if it lasted for this job, that is all I needed. The tool worked perfectly fine and I feel it was the best solution available for my particular scenario.


I'm big on reading, and re-reading, and days later re-reading a few more times any sort of instruction that comes with a product. In this case the AEV instructions that came with the 8100s suggested that there may be excess welds on the front spring/shock towers that require grinding down prior to installing the brackets for the remote reservoirs. Thanks to AEV and their detailed instructions, none of this was a surprise when I test fitted the brackets so a few minutes of grinding and my problem was solved. Their instructions also mention to inspect the lower shock bracket where it is welded to the front axle to verify a full weld has been applied. Once again, this is great information to have available and represents a few additional minutes of work now compared to possibly experiencing an unexpected component failure in a random location.


The front shocks gave me more of a headache than expected since the nuts and threaded shafts up top on both sides were rusted. Honestly, the rust is my fault - what would have prevented it was immediate application of a lanolin-based brand of corrosion preventive and lubricant. Now you clearly can see when just a few weeks ago I purchased a six-pack of Blaster Surface Shield and am planning to finally spray the underside prior to departing for my next year worth of adventures.

The red-circle shows the offending nut and threaded shaft up top that rewarded me with hours of excitement. This one was on the drivers side adjacent to the anti-lock brake system and associated lines and although the picture suggests there is ample room to stick fingers or a wrench in there, it is really a poor design and there should have been additional access provided. On the passenger side there was a massive amount of room so I reached in with an air cut-off tool and zipped the rusted nut right off.

The inset picture on the bottom right shows how the drivers side was addressed. In summary, I did not want to risk damaging the ABS system so I decided to work from below and cut through the shock shaft where a metal collar sits atop a machined shoulder of the shaft. If you cut the shaft below this point everything up top is still fixed in place. If you cut at the collar, everything in the bushing pack comes apart as soon as you cut through.


I finished late into the evening just as the Auto-Hobby Shop was shutting down on base so here is a picture of those beautiful AEV/Bilstein XP8100 Remote Reservoir shocks installed. Over the years I have viewed other RAMs with King or Fox shocks (which are great shocks) installed and the mounting the remote reservoir has always appeared like an afterthought; I have seen them bolted to the plastic wheel well liner, a generic clamp, etc. Attention to detail and professional design in accordance with SAE engineering standards is where American Expedition Vehicles stands out head-and-shoulders above all others. AEV produces OEM quality components that are designed, tested, produced to SAE and FMVSS standards, and are currently being installed on OEM production lines. It's disappointing to say that AEV stands alone and I do hope to see other companies step up to the plate some day - competition is good for the consumer.


Some of my buddies are sending daily pictures of them on the trail and asking when I will be joining them. The beautiful blue Power Wagon is owned by Paul (IG: overland_the_horizons). Recently Paul swapped his Palomino camper for a loaded Four Wheel Camper and he could not be happier. Paul summed it up by saying the Palomino was great for weekend excursions but just was not able to hold up for full time use since everything was slowly breaking down.

I met Paul (inset picture far left) while camping three years ago in the Ocala National Forest in Florida and we have shared several trails since then. Matt (inset picture far right) and I met at Overland Expo East two years ago and we nearly crossed paths last fall in the Pacific North West. Since Matt was exploring Florida, I introduced him to Paul who was nearby and as I am complete with my upgrades and maintenance, we are planning to head west together. I think Paul and I both agree that it's strange what desire will make foolish people do...

(photo credits to Paul)

 

[Brutal_HO]

The on-base self help shops are great. I replaced a busted rocker arm (had to pull the cam) on my BMW 2500 at the Bremerhaven U.S. Army base when I was stationed in Germany in the early 80's. There was no lack of even some specialized tools for the common (mostly German) brands either.

That base is now gone forever. None of the buildings, including the Army hospital my oldest son was born in, survived the draw down post cold war. The bases and Kasernes we shared with the Germans were nearly all closed/withdrawn in 1993. The Kaserne I was stationed at 100KM south of Bremerhaven was razed and is now just empty overgrown industrial lots. The Gasthaus/restaurant that was right outside the Kaserne is now a Wolf Refuge/Alpaca farm? Crazy.

 

[ramblinChet]

Shifting gears here and working to resolve an issue that has been on my mind for quite some time - falling. A study published in the American Journal of Preventive Medicine found that 97.3% of ladder-related injuries occur in non-occupational settings (e.g., homes, farms, or recreational areas) and according to the CDC, over 300 people die annually from ladder falls, and more than 164,000 ladder-related injuries are treated in emergency rooms each year.


For an older man like me, the data underscores that age-related factors (balance, reflexes) amplify the risk of even minor falls. A 2-foot drop from a step stool into a camper might seem trivial, but it could lead to a hip fracture or head injury, especially on hard desert ground or rocky forest terrain. The rear AEV bumper provides a 5" x 30" step which is unusual in size but fine for occasional use. Since I climb in and out of my camper a dozen or more times daily I really needed to discover a better solution. These pictures show the step being test fitted and as of now I am still working to resolve how I will permanently attach it.


It's time to get down to the details and besides a manufacturers web site, sometimes you find additional details on the product packaging. In this case I was interested in what their recommendation was for lug and wire size regarding the primary positive and negative connection. On this card they specify a #10-32 stud that will accept 4-6 AWG wire and the block itself is designed to handle a maximum of 100 amps up to 32 volts. With this information I made plans to order the somewhat odd sized Ancor 4 AWG #10 lug and since I already have 4 AWG wire, cutter, and crimper, I will be all set.


During June of last year I began to consider different layouts for my soon-to-be-upgraded electrical system. Many nights were spend moving scaled digital representations of the pieces around an appropriately sized digital blank canvas which represented the rear wall of my camper on the drivers side. I thought long and hard about this installation and even considered building a false wall out of non-flammable material a few inches out so I could mount all the components on the outside while running all wiring behind.

Here are just a few iterations of my design process which clearly shows that once you begin, many pieces of the puzzle are moved, and provided you take your time and make a sincere effort, the end result will be much better when compared to those initial ones. As you scan Versions 3, 10, 14, and 19, you can see how many different locations of components were conflicting with one another and how some pieces were being brought into the equation while others were being taken out.


I was not happy with the direction things were going in the above-mentioned iterations so I took time off and worked on other tasks. In July of last year I dove back in and now considered expanding the area of installation from just the back wall (left of the vertical black line) to also include a small section of the adjacent drivers side (right of the vertical black line). This provided much more flexibility and freedom and involved using a space that was not being used for anything else.

But I still was not happy with my overall design so I set it aside once again.


Skip ahead to the past several months, one day I decided to venture into an entirely new direction. This had much to do with a friend who was burned over 60% of his body while sleeping in his camper. A fire broke out and not only did he lose his camper and truck, but he also lost his dog. This convinced me to think about what others had been doing with regards to camper electrical systems and how I could increase the safety of the system.

Here is my first attempt at physically placing some of the components inside a Zarges K470 case where I am planning to mount them. The MPPT 100/30 and Orion XS are leaned up against the wall since I am tentatively planning to install them on this inside wall. Using the inside of the K470 provides much more space, provides additional protection for the components and wires, and also decreases the probability and intensity of a fire. These are all small steps in the correct direction although cumulatively, they will result in a much better system overall.


My Victron Energy Lynx Power In (M10) will be housing a series of MEGA fuses. Here is one more example of taking a few extra minutes to perform research and make the correct selection regarding support parts. Fuses are fuses right? Well, Littelfuse is the original designer and patent holder of the MEGA fuse. Other quality manufactures of MEGA fuses include companies such as Eaton (Cooper Bussmann), and MTA (Modular Components).

Other manufacturers vary in quality, materials, or certification depending on the source. They could use inferior metals or lack proper interrupt ratings (e.g., Littelfuse’s 2000A @ 32VDC vs. a generic’s untested capacity), risking circuit failure or fire. Reputable manufacturers provide fuses meeting UL, ISO, or SAE standards. For safety's sake, spending $5-15 per fuse compared to $1-3 for a generic or mislabeled brand, is well worth it to me. If you have not guessed it yet, I dive deep into details and you should too.


While reviewing my options for connecting all of the components inside my electrical system I began to run into an issue: the Lynx Power In has four connections for components whereas I require five, or possibly six, depending upon how I decide to wire. After mulling it over and considering other options, which I ultimately considered shortcuts, I opted to purchase an additional Lynx Power In and connect it to the existing one.


In a previous post we had discussed my initial design considerations related to how I will lay out the gauges and controls on the face of my Zarges K470 premium aluminum case which houses all of my electrical components for my system. I have though about it some more and reorganized things a bit. If you recall my goal was to take advantage of the prioritization of efficiency, logical grouping, and accessibility contained within aircraft cockpit design.

In keeping with that thought process, the BMV-712 takes priority over the MPPT Control since the battery is the heart of my system. The BMV-712’s State of Charge and Time to Go are the most actionable metrics for managing limited energy reserves, especially since solar charging is weather-dependent. The BMV-712 directly informs me of my strategy - when to cut loads, when to recharge, and how much capacity remains. The MPPT Control’s solar data (e.g., Solar Panel Power (W), Charge Current (A)) is crucial for optimizing my primary charging source, but it’s also secondary to knowing the battery’s state.

The INKBIRD ITC-1000 slots in at #3 because it addresses a practical concern in my off-grid setup: component reliability under thermal stress. Victron components are robust but sensitive to heat - he Orion XS and MPPT controllers can reduce output or shut down if ambient temps exceed safe thresholds (typically 50-60°C per Victron manuals). The temperature of the area where the components are housed is important regarding performance of the equipment but is more of a layer of insurance rather than a primary survival metric.

 

[jsalbre]

I assume you have some cooling planned for that box? Those components (especially the inverter and the MPPT can put out a lot of heat, and they’ll throttle themselves or shut off if they get too warm.

 

[neoprufrok]

I appreciate your comments on AEV. I talk to Dave, the CEO, quite often. The amount of engineering and testing that his company puts into each product easily justifies the higher price. I believe I messaged you once on the Expedition Portal platform - since I learned a lot from your posts. I was thinking about a new RAM 3500 then, but I talked to Dave, and he mentioned it would take some time for them to test their front bumper on testing tracks that OEMs use... because AEV wants to make sure the front bumper works with that new sensor in the front that is responsible for the adaptive cruise control. I'm not sure many front bumper aftermarket manufacturers go through that level of detail.

Because it would take awhile to test, and because I decided to wait it out for 1-2 years while the new Cummins/ZF combo works the bugs out, I went with a new 2024 Jeep 392 Rubicon - which is now at AEV being built to the JL370 spec. AEV does it right and reading your posts confirms the level of thought they put into their products.

 

[ramblinChet]

I assume you have some cooling planned for that box? Those components (especially the inverter and the MPPT can put out a lot of heat, and they’ll throttle themselves or shut off if they get too warm.

Yes, and thanks for checking to make sure. In a previous post I mentioned performing calculations and ultimately designing a cooling system that includes an INKBIRD ITC-1000 temperature controller, Noctua NA-FC1 PWM fan controller, and two Noctua 120mm PWM (pulse width modulated) fans. My calculations included normal equipment operation during a normal day and my final calculations included everything running at 100% on a hot day in SW Arizona during July and August. In short, my cooling system should have double the capacity required for a worst case scenario. It will be interesting to see if everything operates as expected.

I appreciate your comments on AEV. I talk to Dave, the CEO, quite often. The amount of engineering and testing that his company puts into each product easily justifies the higher price. I believe I messaged you once on the Expedition Portal platform - since I learned a lot from your posts. I was thinking about a new RAM 3500 then, but I talked to Dave, and he mentioned it would take some time for them to test their front bumper on testing tracks that OEMs use... because AEV wants to make sure the front bumper works with that new sensor in the front that is responsible for the adaptive cruise control. I'm not sure many front bumper aftermarket manufacturers go through that level of detail.

Because it would take awhile to test, and because I decided to wait it out for 1-2 years while the new Cummins/ZF combo works the bugs out, I went with a new 2024 Jeep 392 Rubicon - which is now at AEV being built to the JL370 spec. AEV does it right and reading your posts confirms the level of thought they put into their products.

Thank you and I do recognize your screen-name and I enjoyed our previous discussion. I am really looking forward to seeing some pictures of your completed AEV Hemi Rubicon JL370. In my opinion, you will soon own the absolute greatest of all Jeeps, bar none. Please make sure to post some pics for us to enjoy!

I began Jeeping in the early '90s and was always confused since all the suspension manufacturers (Rubicon Express, TeraFlex, etc.) offered were springs and shocks; sometimes an adjustable trackbar and control arms. They never addressed the deterioration of the steering or suspension geometry created by their lifts and a poorer ride and handling were accepted as normal. It was in 2002 that I purchase a TJ and over the next several years began keeping an eye on AEV and Nth Degree Engineering - they were definately taking things to the next level and I am still shocked no other companies stepped up and attempted to compete. To this day AEV stands head-and-shoulders above everyone else although I hope someday another company bucks-up and gives them a run. Competition is always good.

Thank you again for your kind words and happy trails!

 

[ramblinChet]

It's funny how different people handle similar situations. When I was younger and I was tasked with something, I would do it to the best of my ability, but I was never quite happy with the end result. Whatever it was, it worked, seemed fine, and most folks were happy, but inside I knew it could be done better. It was a few years later when I stopped to think, most everything has been done previously by experts in their respective fields, and they have all published information regarding standards and best practices.

Fast forward and now when I am preparing to layout gauges and controls for an electrical system in my camper, I am referencing Department of Defense Design Criteria Standard (MIL-STD-1472H) and a similar publication produced by the Federal Aviation Administration. Some may consider this excessive but to me it's perfectly normal. The layout of instruments, gauges, and controls in a cockpit of a helicopter, or tank, or passenger jet, all share common characteristics such as safety, efficiency, and error prevention.

My goal with this design is to have the most valuable information readily available at a glance and when I want to change the status of something, I desire the layout to be logical, intuitive, and to ultimately reduce the probability of making an error. I attempted to attached the above-mentioned publications but they were too large.


At this point it becomes important to begin preparing a final layout that includes measurements. In additional to making some adjustments to the alignment you might have also noticed the grouping of the two pair of switches. Using cues from cockpit layout for aircraft and spacecreaft, grouping switches and instrumentation in clusters provides many advantages such as accessibility and speed, intuitive operation, reduction in human error, etc. Whenever I am involved in design of a system, one of my primary goals includes organization (controls in this case) in a way that aligns with how the operator thinks and works, reducing cognitive load and minimizing error. This is extremely important when experiencing stress such as during an emergency.

I grouped the two switches on the left side since they will both be controlling lights. The first switch is for interior lights and will be the first one encountered when entering the camper and it will be used frequently. The second switch controls the exterior LED lights on the back of my camper and will only be used when setting up camp after dark - but it still deals with lights.

The second pair are grouped because they will be used to turn on or off power to an electrical component (inverter) or to a subsystem (Blue Sea fuse block). I will only be using the inverter for a few hours here and there so I do not want it running, or even in standby mode, when not being used - the switch will manually turn it on when I need it. The final switch will control a Victron Energy Smart Battery Protect that is able to decouple the Blue Sea fuse block from everything else. I don't plan on using this unless I am parking my vehicle for an extended time (weeks or months) and wish to eliminate any and all parasitic loads thus keeping my batteries fresh.


If you dig around manufacturers sites they usually provide great information related to the actual dimensions for their respective product, how much clearance is necessary for installation, and even sometimes what tools (drill bit or hole saw size) are needed.


For me, having access to manufacturers drawings is never good enough. Although I no longer have free and unlimited access to the latest CAD software, I still have a creative mind that enjoys creating true-to-scale layouts using basic tools such as MS Paint. I can't help it, I'm a numbers guy and have spent much of my life peering into the future to identify potential problems, and eliminate them before they even begin to appear. Spending a few hours sitting at my computer dragging lines and chasing pixels, and then seeing exactly how objects will interact, relate, etc., is well worth it to me. Here are the primary gauges across the top.


Now we move down to the secondary panel down below and scanning from left to right we first encounter the two groups of toggle switches previously discussed. Since I am creating these drawings on 8.5" x 11.0" paper in landscape mode, and they are true to scale, I will be able to print these out and view them in their actual size. I could even use them as a template for preparing to drill pilot holes.


Continuing our move to the right you see toggle switch "D" on the left, which was the same toggle switch "D" off to the far right on the page above. Now we are able to view the entire accessory panel. I guess in some strange sort of way I occasionally miss going to work, leading teams to sometimes accomplish things that have never been done, completing a multi-year project and looking back on the finished product and smiling.

 

[Brutal_HO]

I've been using the free hobby user Fusion360 and find it quite robust (but I'm a CAD n00b).

 

[ramblinChet]

The Lynx Power In (M10) is a positive and negative busbar that has four connections for batteries, loads, or chargers and a ground connection. It is one of the components within the Lynx Distribution System which is a modular busbar system that incorporates DC connections, distribution, fusing, battery monitoring, and management. Since I already owned the BMV-712 and LiTime batteries, I had no requirement for the battery monitoring or battery management systems, respectively.

The Lynx Distributor looks similar but contains additional technology such as a printed circuit board, LED lights, fuses, and the ability to communicate with Victron GX devices which are fully featured communication centers with remote monitoring. I was not interested in being able to check the status of my power system from a remote location but having integrated fuses sure appealed to me. Explorist Life Mobil Marine & Off-Grid Electrical has a nice video detailing how to add fuses to a Lynx Power In so I decided to modify mine.


The process requires a few basic hand tools, and some additional supplies such as bolts, nuts, and washers. Pay special attention to the 25mm length I have circled below since it is incorrect. At 1:30 in the video they specify 30mm long bolts, but there are links below the video which lead to 25mm bolts. After watching the video I made the mistake of clicking the links down below to create a list of which parts were necessary. The error was my fault for not double checking.


On the upper left you see how the 25mm bolt does not fully engage all the threads. Yes, I'm sure everything would be perfectly fine but it only cost a few more dollars, took a few more minutes, and as you can see on the upper right, all is well so I sleep soundly. And those LittleFuse MEGA fuses are beautiful if you ask me - I ordered one spare of each rating just in case.

On the lower left you see the Lynx Power In, unmodified while on the right you see the same unit with the modification that now includes MEGA fuses. For safety, my goal was to have all connections properly fused in my system.


Here's an overhead shot of one unmodified with another modified. You may wonder why an additional Lynx Power In has been added to my system and that is a great question. Besides the battery coming in my system had six other necessary connections: solar, DC-DC, charger, inverter, fused sub-panel, and air compressor - but I only had four connections available. Again, Explorist Life had another good video on how to "add-a-space or two" but after considering that additional modification I decided to add another Power In with fuses. This additional modification would use MRBF Terminal fuses which are perfectly adequate, but I wanted to stick with all MEGA type fuses.


Earlier I mentioned the Lynx components are part of a modular busbar system - here is my example of how these individual modules connect using an 8 x 30mm tin plated copper busbar. The inset picture provides a closeup of that wonderful connection. I am happy I spent the extra few dollars and didn't cut any corners at the last minute. Changes like these are prolonging my build but a few more days and a few more dollars will reward me with a complete and balanced system.


Here are four more examples of layout options I work through as I design the system. The front, back, left, and right, in each display represents the sides of the Zarges K470 these will be installed in. The box and all components are to scale. In V1.3 you note there is only one Lynx Power In. In V2.0 you can see me test fitting the second Lynx prior to placing the order. In V2.2 I am moving the charger to the center of the back wall to free up some space on the floor. In V2.4 I moved the charger to the left one more spot to eliminate the AC line from the charger crossing over DC lines of the solar charge controller that can be seen in V2.2. I also wanted to see how far to the left I could push all the components on the back wall to free up room on the right side.


We are getting close to a final layout so I added 120mm fans to the left and right sides and reviewed all of my connections. I am sure there will be a few additional minor changes but we are getting close to beginning to drill holes and begin mounting components.


In closing, here is a shot of a few of the components that soon will be mounted to the deck of my Zarges K470. The two Lynx and Phoenix inverter are the heaviest components that do not have a requirement to be mounted vertically for cooling purposes so that explains the logic of why they are being installed on the deck. The instruction manuals for each component provide very clear requirements detailing orientation, space between other components, etc. This all relates directly to cooling since higher temperatures force the components to regulate their input or output.

Over the next few days I will begin drilling and cutting holes into the $900 aluminum case so I will be very focused on measure twice, cut once. I'm not nervous or intimidated but I am preparing myself to slow the process down for two reasons - I am excited and also itching to be back on the road. It's time exercise self-discipline, double or triple check everything, and let her rip. Oh mother, tell your children, not to do what I have done...

 

[ramblinChet]

Some may scoff at paying $20 for a can of spray paint but considering that an AEV front bumper costs $2,860 while the rear bumper is $1,896, I don't blink an eye. I appreciate that matching paint is available from the manufacturer so when I contact a rock or other abrasive trail feature, a quick touch up is but a few dollars and minutes away.


Here are the three cans of AEV touch up paint I ordered: one Gun Metal (RAM recovery points) and two Black (RAM bumpers). They also offer Satin Black, Anthracite, and Satin Onyx for the AT4X, Bison, Canyon, Colorado, etc.


My goal is to visually record areas where wear occurred for vehicle history.

• UL - ductile iron recovery point appears dark due to light masking paper and camera automatically adjusting exposure for 18% gray - note cleaned up area that was rusted
• UR - ductile iron wear point on underside of front bumper has made contact several times and rusted
• LL - ductile iron recovery point sprayed with light coatings of Gun Metal
• LR - ductile iron wear point sprayed with light coatings of Gun Metal

AEV rear bumper on the driver and passenger side also made contact a few times over the past few years or trails.

• UL - when this contact was made it was nice to have this strong tubular section of the bumper that connected to the frame at two points
• UR - the scratch along the rearmost was likely from a wind-powered shopping cart screaming across the parking lot while the yellow streak on the outboard was donated by a light pole base at a very busy parking lot in Oklahoma - thanks Crystal!
• LL - driver side area masked off and cleaned up with wire wheel
• LR - passenger side area masked off and cleaned up with wire wheel

Here are the two heavy duty ductile iron recovery points on the AEV rear bumper. When you attach the AEV 1" anchor shackles that were manufactured in The Kingdom of the Netherlands, and pull at oblique angles, you can expect some wear marks.

• UL - driver
• UR - passenger
• LL - driver cleaned and painted
• LR - passenger cleaned and painted

While preparing to layout the pattern prior to drilling holes into my Zarges K470 I took some time to consider how I would go about this process. The easiest would be to print a copy of my layout drawings to scale, fit them to the box, and center-punch where the pilot holes will be drilled. Another more common option was read the measurements off the paper layouts, use a ruler, and mark the holes. And then finally, you could really take a great amount of time using premium tools, layout fluid, etc. and deliver accuracy to within 0.001".

Over the years I have given many of my tools manufactured by Starrett and Mitutoyo to my son since I am no longer using them. This was that strange case where once again where I needed that old tool back for a few hours but it was more trouble than it was worth to fit into his busy schedule and drive all the way to his place and back. The solution was to purchase a $23 dial caliper and $2 steel ruler from Harbor Freight. This job did not require accuracy to within 0.001" but my eyes are not as good as they once were and accurately reading a ruler has become more difficult but a dial caliper is easier for me. I guess my goal is to confirm that a professional layout can be completed using inexpensive tools.


While walking through Harbor Freight you can't help but grab a few additional items that you had been thinking about for some time and a $5 hitch pin for my Class V receiver was coming home with me. No, I have no plans to tow anything although I would hate to be in a situation at some point where I was not able to assist another because I didn't have a hitch pin available.


On the Harbor Freight receipt above you also notices two rolls of non-slip drawer liner which I tucked under my arm while circling the store with other old men like a shiver of sharks. My goal was to trim the drawer liner and cover the floors of my four Zarges K470 that I use to carry food, clothing, sleeping bags, and cold weather gear. In my one box I noticed a black film and associated black dust being created when I stored steel cans inside - I am guessing this is a film of aluminum oxide that is worn off by the metal cans moving around thus creating the marks and associated dust.

The radius for the corners matched the glass bottles of salt and pepper that I received from the Cotton Patch in Nacogdoches, Texas, a year or two ago. Set the bottle on the corner, press down, trim - make sure to use a fresh blade.


While reviewing my wiring plan and reading component manuals for my upgraded electrical system in my camper, I came across the topic of a chassis ground. In short, grounding the entire system in my camper to my trucks frame. Over the span of a few days I collected information that suggested by tying the negative busbar to the chassis, you create a low-resistance path for fault currents, which improves safety by allowing overcurrent protection devices (like fuses) to trip quickly in case of a short circuit, reducing the risk of electrical fires or shocks.

In addition, by using the chassis as a common ground, all components share the same potential, preventing differential voltages that lead to ground loops. This ensures cleaner power delivery, reduces electromagnetic interference, and enhances the reliability of sensitive electronics in the camper's electrical system. This all was beneficial so I contacted a close friend who is a Principal Engineer who specializes in Electrical Engineering and he confirmed that that would be the correct path for my system.


And finally, now we are able to take a peek at what how the arrangement of gauges, switches, and other controls, will most likely appear once the layout and cutting on the front of my Zarges K470 begins to take place. Here is a brief explanation of each variant:

• V1.1 - initial placement of gauges off to the left since Wallas Nordic DT heater & cooktop will be off to the right on the lid
• V2.0 - added switches and accessory panel - note fifth switch added to center
• V3.0 - added control panel for Nordic DT to the right of switched and accessory panel
• V3.2 - moved all over to the right and centered both rows

My goal is to convince you to slow down and take your time when constructing a plan, review many options. Over the years I have noticed that many projects that seem good at the beginning end in only a fair or satisfactory state - they never excel. My experience has convinced me that there is a strong correlation between initially slowing the process down, talking, thinking, reviewing different options, etc., and later success.

It is much easier and far more cost effective for one or two people to make changes on a piece of paper early on in a project. As the project matures, and work is completed, the ability to make changes becomes increasingly more difficult and expenses grow exponentially. So, if you're workin' on a mystery, goin' wherever it leads, slow down and let the solution come to you. Don't rush a good thing.

 

[jsalbre]

Awesome work and planning!

That AEV touch up paint is also a good match for the powder coat on Power Wagon/Rebel bumpers if anyone is curious.

I should add that there is also a chassis ground lug on the MPPT that you may want to hook up.

 

[Pearce]

Love this. Will be so helpful if I ever get around to setting up power in my inclosed crawler hauler trailer. Thanks

 

[ramblinChet]

My Renogy 200 Watt solar suitcase, used daily, required a quick repair because two of the wires were displaying cracks. Due to their location, I suspect that when I stripped the outer insulation during the previous repair, I nicked the insulation, which caused the cracks to develop. Last September, when I purchased genuine MC4 connectors from Stäubli International AG, I made sure to order a few extra, so I had all the parts and tools on hand.

One key point about MC4 connectors is that their male and female components are often incorrectly identified. If you reference the inset pictures along the bottom, you will see the external plastic connectors and the internal metal connectors. Technically, the complete MC4 connector is identified based on the internal component, while the external appearance is irrelevant. So, a female connector that appears male on the outside will actually be female on the inside, and vice versa. This naming convention might be a Swiss design quirk, given Stäubli’s origins.


I’ve been searching for a solution to mount my phone while driving for some time. For the past few years, it has been sitting upside down in the center cupholder, while plugged in. I prefer a clean, uncluttered look, so mounts that bolt into the top of the dash and have arms hanging over with joints on each end are not for me.

This magnetic mount from Course Motorsports places my phone exactly where I desire, is simple, and has a fair price. I searched for a coupon and found one that worked, saving me some cost.


Installation of the mount took just minutes, and as expected, it looks clean, uncluttered, and professional. It will be interesting to see if the magnet is strong enough to support the phone on the trail. I’ll follow up with a picture of my phone mounted with everything powered up when I have a chance.


The final two tools I was waiting for arrived: a Starrett 18A automatic center punch and a 70A pocket scriber. There’s something special about a premium tool and its ability to precisely mark metal. Both are compact, measuring five and six inches.

Another factor that convinced me to purchase these tools was the cost of ink for my Canon printer. This may sound funny, but I had considered printing my layout work to use as a template to lay over the Zarges case and then mark my pilot holes. With printer ink costing just shy of $100, I easily justified buying these beautiful Starrett tools that, like many other tools, will be passed on to my son.


It has taken such a long time, but the first hole has been punched into my $900+ Zarges K470 case, and there’s no going back. Instead of starting on the front-facing surface, I played it safe and chose a slightly hidden area on one of the rear corners. This allowed me to work through double-checking my drawings, performing a manual layout, drilling pilot holes, then final sizing, cleaning up burrs, and mounting the component. This was a solitary hole in a discreet location, so if I made a mistake, it would not be as visible or impact other adjacent mounting holes.

The manufacturer of the weatherproof outdoor power outlet supplied self-tapping sheet metal screws, but I upgraded to stainless steel 8-32 x 3/4" socket head screws, washers, and nylon locking nuts. Overall, I was satisfied with the first cut and installation, though I identified ways to improve my process and potentially increase accuracy. Refining a new process early on is normal and expected, which highlights the value of an expert with over a decade of experience. In summary, I labored with something that an expert would consider easy.

The final few weeks of work are an exercise in patience and self-discipline. I dream of packing up and driving off tomorrow morning, so I must slow the process down and focus on doing my very best. If I don’t, I won’t be happy with my work, and I’ll constantly remind myself that a few more hours or days could have made a difference.

"Whatsoever you do, do it from the heart, as to the Lord, and not to men: Knowing that you shall receive of the Lord the reward of inheritance. Serve ye the Lord Christ." ~ Colossians 3:23-24

Here is what I hope will be my final layout draft before cutting begins on the front of the box. I am completely satisfied with the top row, which contains, from left to right, a Victron Energy BMV-712, an MPPT Controller, and an INKBIRD ITC-1000. However, I am still not entirely certain about the second row. The Blue Sea accessory panel, the control panel for the Wallas Nordic DT, and six switches will definitely be included on this row. My final considerations focus on the arrangement of the switches. Let me lay them out for you and explain my reasoning.

The switches from left-to-right, for now can be referenced as A-F:

• switch A controls power to the interior lights and will be the first switch encountered when entering the vehicle and the most frequently used
• switch B is grouped with A since it is also a light, but for the exterior, and will see occasional use when arriving to camp after dark
• switch C controls power to the inverter and will be used frequently when charging my computer or operating other devices that require AC power. If the inverter is left on there will be a small but constant power draw.
• switch D is grouped with C since it also controls power, but in this case it will be to the 12 volt 100 amp fuse block that provides power to to refrigerator, fan, lights, etc. My goal with this switch is to be able to isolate all components during extended storage so there are no parasitic draws.
• switch E is for main power that supplies the Wallas Nordic DT cook top and heater. The owners manual recommends a disconnect such as this so the unit does not draw any power when not operating.
• switch F is grouped with E since this is a high altitude (3,000-5,000m) compensation setting for the Nordic DT. This will be used to varying degrees depending upon location and time of the year

My goal is to group switches that share similar functions or control the same component, and in the case of the Nordic DT, place them near other component controls.

 

[ramblinChet]

It will be interesting to review my posts someday and calculate my total expenses over the years. This will help me understand the complete cost of my sub-projects. Managing numerous technical projects has taught me that while large initial expenses are easy to tally, smaller items with modest price tags accumulate quickly, representing a significant cost.

I visited Harbor Freight again to purchase a pack of cut-off wheels and noticed an 8" flat file while leaving. Since I had a few rectangular cutouts, I reasoned that the file’s larger surface would help smooth their edges. Spending $4 on the file proved to be a worthwhile investment.


Later that day, I visited Lowe’s to purchase a single 1/2" drill bit, only to find that the only one available cost nearly $30. Although it was high-quality, I needed it only for drilling six holes in aluminum, so I considered my options. I noticed a drill bit set priced slightly lower that included the 1/2" bit, so I purchased it. I’ve never heard anyone complain about having too many drill bits, especially smaller ones.


Years ago, when I began traveling, I passed on to my son a Dremel high-speed corded rotary-tool kit. I rarely used this tool kit, but it is invaluable for small, detailed metalwork. Purchasing another kit for brief use would be impractical, so I arranged to retrieve it from my son during a nearby lunch. On the way home, I stopped by Harbor Freight to purchase an assortment of accessories. Uncertain of my exact needs but eager to complete my work and resume traveling, I selected two accessory kits. Over the past week, I have begun spending slightly more to save time. Delaying work to save a few dollars sacrifices valuable time, especially when I am eager to return to the road.


Reviewing my plans, performing a precision layout, marking metal with a scribe, center-punching the intersection, and drilling a pilot hole is highly satisfying. This process involves gently rubbing the tip of the center-punch along one of the scribed lines, then guiding the tool into the intersection with the other line. Precisely positioning an automatic center-punch over the intersection, visually checking from multiple angles while wearing a headband magnifier, ensuring the punch is perfectly perpendicular to the surface, pressing down, and creating a solid reference point ensures exceptional accuracy.

Drilling a pilot hole for every hole is essential, as the reference hole ensures precise alignment with the planned location. This step takes only a few additional minutes, but the results are well worth the effort.


A critical consideration is securing the workpiece. This work occurs inside my Four Wheel Camper, with only a single 120-volt, 15-amp power line available. To stabilize the Zarges K470 to a reasonable degree, I placed a moderately heavy tool bag inside, closed the lid for added rigidity, and pushed the case against the camper’s interior wall. In an ideal setting, I would have access to a large shop with a vertical mill, large drill press, clamps, and fixtures to secure the workpiece. For my purposes, however, this approach met approximately 80% of my needs and was sufficiently effective for a single project.


Now we are progressing—finally punching holes and test-fitting pieces. Throughout my career, I have observed that there are sometimes significant differences between what one envisions, commits to paper, and the final physical product. After years of analyzing projects with varying outcomes, I have found that time is the primary factor correlating with quality. This may seem obvious, but in today’s fast-paced world, I encourage others to slow down, invest adequate time, and deliver the high-quality product envisioned.

The BMV-712, MPPT Control, and ITC-1000 are positioned exactly as planned, with precise placement, spacing relative to each other, and distance above the aluminum rib. By taking my time, the results align with my expectations. I am confident that slowing the process by 20–30% can improve the outcome by 70–80%.


I continued with additional layout and pilot holes. The most challenging component to lay out was the control panel for the Wallas Nordic DT cooktop and heater, as it was sandwiched between two raised aluminum ribs with only a millimeter of clearance above and below. Any misalignment would make the panel appear crooked, as the small space between the parallel ribs would highlight even minor errors. If the ribs were an inch or more apart, slight misalignment would be undetectable to the human eye. Such challenges are rewarding to address.


Cutting metal is a precise and satisfying process. During my first year at Penn State University, a class involved basic work in the campus machine shop. Observing a vertical milling machine automatically move the table—removing metal—was highly engaging.

All holes were deburred and carefully smoothed using needle files. Sharp edges between adjoining holes were manually softened to ensure a clean finish.


The current progress includes preparations for drilling 120mm holes in the left and right sides of the case for cooling fans. Tomorrow, I plan to complete this task. It may be necessary to reconfigure the internal component layout as needed—I am reviewing this now.

 

[dieselscout80]

It will be interesting to review my posts someday and calculate my total expenses over the years. This will help me understand the complete cost of my sub-projects. Managing numerous technical projects has taught me that while large initial expenses are easy to tally, smaller items with modest price tags accumulate quickly, representing a significant cost.

I visited Harbor Freight again to purchase a pack of cut-off wheels and noticed an 8" flat file while leaving. Since I had a few rectangular cutouts, I reasoned that the file’s larger surface would help smooth their edges. Spending $4 on the file proved to be a worthwhile investment.
View attachment 84963

Later that day, I visited Lowe’s to purchase a single 1/2" drill bit, only to find that the only one available cost nearly $30. Although it was high-quality, I needed it only for drilling six holes in aluminum, so I considered my options. I noticed a drill bit set priced slightly lower that included the 1/2" bit, so I purchased it. I’ve never heard anyone complain about having too many drill bits, especially smaller ones.
View attachment 84964

Years ago, when I began traveling, I passed on to my son a Dremel high-speed corded rotary-tool kit. I rarely used this tool kit, but it is invaluable for small, detailed metalwork. Purchasing another kit for brief use would be impractical, so I arranged to retrieve it from my son during a nearby lunch. On the way home, I stopped by Harbor Freight to purchase an assortment of accessories. Uncertain of my exact needs but eager to complete my work and resume traveling, I selected two accessory kits. Over the past week, I have begun spending slightly more to save time. Delaying work to save a few dollars sacrifices valuable time, especially when I am eager to return to the road.
View attachment 84965

Reviewing my plans, performing a precision layout, marking metal with a scribe, center-punching the intersection, and drilling a pilot hole is highly satisfying. This process involves gently rubbing the tip of the center-punch along one of the scribed lines, then guiding the tool into the intersection with the other line. Precisely positioning an automatic center-punch over the intersection, visually checking from multiple angles while wearing a headband magnifier, ensuring the punch is perfectly perpendicular to the surface, pressing down, and creating a solid reference point ensures exceptional accuracy.

Drilling a pilot hole for every hole is essential, as the reference hole ensures precise alignment with the planned location. This step takes only a few additional minutes, but the results are well worth the effort.
View attachment 84966

A critical consideration is securing the workpiece. This work occurs inside my Four Wheel Camper, with only a single 120-volt, 15-amp power line available. To stabilize the Zarges K470 to a reasonable degree, I placed a moderately heavy tool bag inside, closed the lid for added rigidity, and pushed the case against the camper’s interior wall. In an ideal setting, I would have access to a large shop with a vertical mill, large drill press, clamps, and fixtures to secure the workpiece. For my purposes, however, this approach met approximately 80% of my needs and was sufficiently effective for a single project.
View attachment 84967

Now we are progressing—finally punching holes and test-fitting pieces. Throughout my career, I have observed that there are sometimes significant differences between what one envisions, commits to paper, and the final physical product. After years of analyzing projects with varying outcomes, I have found that time is the primary factor correlating with quality. This may seem obvious, but in today’s fast-paced world, I encourage others to slow down, invest adequate time, and deliver the high-quality product envisioned.

The BMV-712, MPPT Control, and ITC-1000 are positioned exactly as planned, with precise placement, spacing relative to each other, and distance above the aluminum rib. By taking my time, the results align with my expectations. I am confident that slowing the process by 20–30% can improve the outcome by 70–80%.
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I continued with additional layout and pilot holes. The most challenging component to lay out was the control panel for the Wallas Nordic DT cooktop and heater, as it was sandwiched between two raised aluminum ribs with only a millimeter of clearance above and below. Any misalignment would make the panel appear crooked, as the small space between the parallel ribs would highlight even minor errors. If the ribs were an inch or more apart, slight misalignment would be undetectable to the human eye. Such challenges are rewarding to address.
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Cutting metal is a precise and satisfying process. During my first year at Penn State University, a class involved basic work in the campus machine shop. Observing a vertical milling machine automatically move the table—removing metal—was highly engaging.

All holes were deburred and carefully smoothed using needle files. Sharp edges between adjoining holes were manually softened to ensure a clean finish.
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The current progress includes preparations for drilling 120mm holes in the left and right sides of the case for cooling fans. Tomorrow, I plan to complete this task. It may be necessary to reconfigure the internal component layout as needed—I am reviewing this now.
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Chet, enjoy reading your posts.

FYI One diamond metal cutting wheel will cut what many packets of abrasive wheels will cut.