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... As a soup sandwich

Mine were replaced under warranty thus I do not know. Though if I were paying for the labor to replace them I'd just convert back to flat tappets.

If you're trans temps are not climbing higher than comfortable I wouldn't personally run one. There's a reason why the thermal non-bypass is installed in the first place so that the trans fluid temp can get where it needs to be for the health of the transmission. Having it bypassed an open all...

I mean "grinding noise towards the front" ... I'd start there

Have you inspected the front shaft for dmg or excessive play? Or removed the fwd diff cover and inspect the ring gear to pinion engagement?

Oh I agree, but mass produced complex machinery unfortunately will always have some issues.... And that's before the corpo-tards muck it up further. I shouldn't have to "ctrl-alt-del" a $300+mil aircraft to get the flight controls to pass preflight... Yet here we are lol Though I'm also a...

Mainly 2 types of folks.. Person A: hears a noise, must locate the source to be confident of no issue...the noise is directly linked to the potential issue until proven otherwise. Person B: hears a noise, looks for surrounding evidence pointing at(or not) an underlying issue...the evidence is...

Agreed, also the sound coming from passanger side turbo area is another indication of less likely to be lifters. @polcat I'd try tightening the vband clamps on the exhaust when everything is cold and shrunk... Easy to do and worth to see if there's any effect on sounds.

I agree with @Units points, stick with 3500. I assume you're looking at used, if so, 2021 is when they ditched the cp4 officially but as stated, as long as the tsb was accomplished then it should be no concern. The 22s do seem to have a spike in emissions but that seems mostly for little to no...

+1 for the wildpeak at4. I don't find them to be loud, they are wearing very well, and I've never had any traction complaints. Best tire I've had on mine thus far and will be going back to them once these are done.

No wind, hood open, start with one wheel well then that side engine bay then the other side then the other wheel well. Description of where you hear it, does it follow rpm, quiet or louder above idle... Troubleshooting over the internet is hard enough, without details... Impossible. Is a noise...

I'd take a look at the up&down stream differential pressure sensors checking for voltage(at idle) and ohm them out(though I don't know the proper resistance offhand but 0=bad)

Yeah fair enough, had the same thought but wasn't sure... Still odd they got a lifter knock/tick from the Hamilton kit, only one I've seen/heard of this happening.

Makes me wonder if that block happened to be one of the few that require a bit of material removed from one of the cylinder under skirts(#4 I think). Mine has had their kit in it for ~15k mi. Knock on wood... The only thing I hear is the "normal" tappet clatter sounds. Although on cold start...

Welcome from Jersey!

The reset injector compensation values is intriguing, someone can correct me, but my understanding is injector compensation is only to be utilized when replacing injectors to set and balance flow rates... I'm assuming you have OE injectors so I'm not sure why they would have any compensation...

Jack rear tires at the diff, put truck in neutral, rotate one tire, you'll see the other rotate in same direction.... Thus you have LSD.

Gave mine an overdue bath..

I am 99% sure I found where mine was leaking and it now should no longer be a problem... Driver side cab marker light - vehicle forward end of gasket. The oem foam gasket was rolled/pinched and was super thin in that section.... And on the mount screw side but not as bad. I used 0.5in vhb tape...

Check the connection behind the console