Recent content by OLEJOE

At least 1/3 of the mileage and fuel burned in my truck has been to appease the DPF Either completing regens or running up and down the road to get it hot enough to passively regen. But we’re saving the environment by putting 1/3 more emissions than would otherwise not even be generated.

I have found that avg mph between regens to be a thing with my truck. Higher mph avg - less % shown on the EVIC gauge and less likely to have a soot based regen.

I’m pretty sure all of my problems were dealer generated. I was told by my son not to have anything to do with them. He bought a new 2018 Charger R/T from them and it had a check engine light coming on about once a week for the evap system. The dealer absolutely destroyed the vehicle working on...

I fixed the hinge by pushing the pin as far as it would go to the bottom and put a C clip on it to take up the slack and hold the pin down. The only part abused in this whole situation was me, the consumer. The only warranty claim I have had in two and a half years.

I have 2 new AB filters that I got from Geno’s but they look different from the one I took out of my truck the first time. It was more yellow than the new ones and it appeared to be heavily oiled but the new ones I have look more like the FG filter. Let us know how the new filter is working.

That’s what my truck was doing until I changed to the FleetGuard filter when the truck was new. I changed to the FG filter @ 6278 miles and now with 32828 miles, it has had mostly 24 hr timed regens since. I occasionally get a short soot based regen that I can’t explain but most are at 24 hrs...

The new replacement filter has glue strips from the pics I’ve been able to find. Haven’t had a chance to fondle one yet.

They could expand it to a million Mile warranty and it still doesn’t mean crap. Im going through trying to get a rear door hinge replaced. Warranty denied. Hinge shows signs of abuse according to them. Absolutely no paint gone off of the hinge, no rust or even dirt on the hinge and some...

Probably a small amount of resistance instead of a direct short.

After looking at the pictures further, those two wires look like the ones going to my grid heater relay. I wouldn’t reconnect them without having the updated relay though. I would just disconnect the one going to the battery to keep it from shorting out on something.

When being tested for power it would show as a ground. It does have to be energized with positive voltage through the relay.

I would definitely trace that wire in the previous picture and disconnect it from the battery where Im pretty sure it terminates.

I can see in this photo that the grid heater relay is not connected. The 2 copper plated post under the nuts are the contacts for the relay itself.

Here is a pic of my grid heater relay.

If you trace this wire out, it probably goes around the front of the engine to the grid heater itself. It would be a ground since the grid heater is a short circuit to create the heat. The other wire if traced out is probably connected to the battery. Either way both need to be covered until you...