Using the 115V in the bed for emergency

[cycling4life]

Has anyone used the 115V outlet by the bed to plug in a 30amp RV just to retract the jacks In case the RV batteries are dead?

 

[sanda]

Has anyone used the 115V outlet by the bed to plug in a 30amp RV just to retract the jacks In case the RV batteries are dead?

Why not just plug the seven pin into the truck and start it

 

[Darkone]

Plus one for the 7pin. I honestly don’t think that the factory invertor would have enough watts to lift the camper jacks

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Nope the factory plug is 3.3A but the 7pin is 30A 12v output

 

[cycling4life]

Although I have not tried it with a dead RV battery, I was told that the 7way pin does not have enough power to bring up the hydraulic jacks.

 

[Slamman18Z]

Although I have not tried it with a dead RV battery, I was told that the 7way pin does not have enough power to bring up the hydraulic jacks.

I was on a 6 month deployment, forgot to disconnect the batteries and must have left something on in my RV. I was able to use my truck to raise and lower my hydraulic jacks. I eventually had to replace the batteries as they did not have enough juice to lower the jacks once they made contact with the ground, but as long as I had my trucked hooked up when I was lowering the jacks, I had no issues.

 

[Brutal_HO]

You might want to rethink your use of light colored text in your sig, not everyone uses dark theme.

 

[Bombaman]

If your RV has a built in surge protector, if its anything like my 1500, RAM uses a floating neutral

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Although I have not tried it with a dead RV battery, I was told that the 7way pin does not have enough power to bring up the hydraulic jacks.

Who ever told you that is wrong it can do it its just a lot of load i would buy a booster pack ( not a crappy tiny jump pack) and keep it in the trailer if you are really worried…

I was on a 6 month deployment, forgot to disconnect the batteries and must have left something on in my RV. I was able to use my truck to raise and lower my hydraulic jacks. I eventually had to replace the batteries as they did not have enough juice to lower the jacks once they made contact with the ground, but as long as I had my trucked hooked up when I was lowering the jacks, I had no issues.

Most likely the smoke alarm and LP leak detector killed your batts they always stay on

 

[darrellr]

Perhaps you can find someone to hook up jumper cables to your trailer batteries to get the jacks up?

 

[Brutal_HO]

Although I have not tried it with a dead RV battery, I was told that the 7way pin does not have enough power to bring up the hydraulic jacks.

The 12-pin does not feed the battery directly, it goes through the converter. Attach it for a few minutes, make sure the converter is charging the battery and it should run. Might only be good for short "bursts" as the hydraulic pumps typically have 60-80A auto-reset breakers.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

The 12-pin does not feed the battery directly, it goes through the converter. Attach it for a few minutes, make sure the converter is charging the battery and it should run. Might only be good for short "bursts" as the hydraulic pumps typically have 60-80A auto-reset breakers.

You mean 7 pin right?

The camera plug should not be charging the batteries at all lol

 

[darrellr]

The 12-pin does not feed the battery directly, it goes through the converter. Attach it for a few minutes, make sure the converter is charging the battery and it should run. Might only be good for short "bursts" as the hydraulic pumps typically have 60-80A auto-reset breakers.

This is not correct. The converter is for converting 120v AC to 12v DC for charging. The 12V goes through the 12v system in the RV and then into the batteries (while it is not wired directly to the batteries, it is logically the same). No conversion is needed. You are definitely correct on the surge current from the hydraulics, though.

 

[Brutal_HO]

This is not correct. The converter is for converting 120v AC to 12v DC for charging. The 12V goes through the 12v system in the RV and then into the batteries (while it is not wired directly to the batteries, it is logically the same). No conversion is needed. You are definitely correct on the surge current from the hydraulics, though.

You are 100% correct. I don't know WTF I was thinking when I wrote that. Must have had AC input on the brain and feel dumber for having said that.

So, give the truck time to charge the RV battery and proceed as before.

 

[Brutal_HO]

You mean 7 pin right?

The camera plug should not be charging the batteries at all lol

LOL, that too. I was a hot mess this morning. I think I had a mini stroke as I was typing.

 

[jsalbre]

Nope the factory plug is 3.3A but the 7pin is 30A 12v output

3.3A @ 120v = 33A @ 12v. There’s some loss at the converter, but it’s likely far less than the loss of pulling 12v the 25’+ distance across a tiny 10awg wire from the truck. If you can get 10A of actual charging out of a 7 pin then I’d be amazed. That’s why most of us who want real charging power from a tow vehicle use DC-DC chargers hanging off large gauge wiring. I have a 60A Renogy DCDC charger on my trailer, wired up with 2AWG from the truck battery and 4AWG from the charger to the trailer battery bank.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

3.3A @ 120v = 33A @ 12v. There’s some loss at the converter, but it’s likely far less than the loss of pulling 12v the 25’+ distance across a tiny 10awg wire from the truck. If you can get 10A of actual charging out of a 7 pin then I’d be amazed. That’s why most of us who want real charging power from a tow vehicle use DC-DC chargers hanging off large gauge wiring. I have a 60A Renogy DCDC charger on my trailer, wired up with 2AWG from the truck battery and 4AWG from the charger to the trailer battery bank.

The 3.3A (400W) 120 would not even run the converter through the A/C power cord at least not on my trailer when running nothing but the converter its almost 4Amps and thats with the trailer battery fully charged you have a much better chance running through the 7pin. I can pull 30A (tested with amp clamp) through the 7 pin with my dump trailer.

I thought about running a DC to DC charger on my camper but the PDC and batterys are at the back of the trailer its not worth the cost of the 120ft of 1avg wire it would take plus the charger. When i always have a perfectly good generator with me when camping where there is no power post

 

[jsalbre]

The 3.3A (400W) 120 would not even run the converter through the A/C power cord at least not on my trailer when running nothing but the converter its almost 4Amps and thats with the trailer battery fully charged you have a much better chance running through the 7pin. I can pull 30A (tested with amp clamp) through the 7 pin with my dump trailer.

I thought about running a DC to DC charger on my camper but the PDC and batterys are at the back of the trailer its not worth the cost of the 120ft of 1avg wire it would take plus the charger. When i always have a perfectly good generator with me when camping where there is no power post

Yeah, good points. Seeing as the converter isn’t smart it’s likely immediately trip the overload.

I use the DCDC as I have 412Ah of lithium in my trailer as well as a 3000w inverter. I run without a generator at all.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Yeah, good points. Seeing as the converter isn’t smart it’s likely immediately trip the overload.

I use the DCDC as I have 412Ah of lithium in my trailer as well as a 3000w inverter. I run without a generator at all.

My trailers not setup for that when i buy a new one i will be setting it up with solar though

 

[Sponge60]

I've used the truck's 7 pin to raise the hydraulic jacks when my batteries were dead. Works fine, but seems a little slower than with fully charged batteries.