Travel Trailer Hitch

[Jimmy Dean]

What are your recommendations for a travel trailer hitch? Eventually plan on a toy hauler.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

That is a loaded question lol good luck. I prefer my curt adjustable 20k rated hitch

 

[Jimmy Dean]

That’s a great pun….

I have no prior knowledge or bias so any recommendations are as good as the next.

 

[silver billet]

The best on the market is the propride and the hensley stinger. They both eliminate horizontal sway and are as stable towing as 5w. After that, my preference would be Anderson Nosway, it doesn't eliminate sway but is light and quick to use, and also works best with Ram's coil suspensions. Then after that you're into standard entry level WDH's like husky centerline.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Just know people will be very good at spending your money when you ask questions like this lol

 

[texas.yankee]

What are your recommendations for a travel trailer hitch? Eventually plan on a toy hauler.

Bumper pull or 5th wheel?

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[kevin588127]

I like the Andersen. Had it on my half ton and now my 2500? It is light and easy to hook up. It is also quiet when turning. I don't really need it on my current truck but it did eliminate the bucking I was having. Pulled our new toy hauler home and it was mostly empty except for batteries and propane. It bucked most of the 60 miles to the storage place. Transfered the hitch to the trailer while it was in storage and pulled it home the other day. Same road but no bucking.

 

[silver billet]

Bumper pull or 5th wheel?

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

Travel Trailer usually = bumper pull, but yes doesn't hurt to ask.

 

[dogbreath650]

I also like the Anderson WDH. Quiet, no buck, no sway, easy to move around. I'm using with a 10k TT and it works great.

 

[silver billet]

I also like the Anderson WDH. Quiet, no buck, no sway, easy to move around. I'm using with a 10k TT and it works great.

I upgraded to the Anderson after using a Husky, it works so much better especially for controlling vertical bounce. Most WDH's use trunion bars which are essentially very stiff springs, and they seem to induce more bounce with the coil suspension in the truck. As soon as I went to the Anderson, which uses chains for a permanent/static force, my vertical bounce has completely disappeared. Kind of makes sense to me, instead of two springs in the system (one on the truck and one on the hitch) there is now only the springs on the truck.

I love the other aspects you mentioned too, quiet and light weight and easy to move around. It's also very easy to dial in the weight as your camper changes (maybe you're running loaded tanks one time instead of usually running empty etc), just turn the nut another thread.

 

[AH64ID]

I like the equal-I-zer setup. It’s stout, which is important to me since I do a lot of back road travel with mine. It’s does a great job of transferring weight and isn’t too hard to setup. They have a model rated up to 16K, if I needed more I would look at the Blue Ox.

I wouldn’t focus on the anti-sway portion of a hitch, but rather the effectiveness of weight transfer. The only real way to eliminate sway is proper tongue weight. Don’t fall for the expensive hitches, they simply aren’t needed with a properly built and loaded trailer.

I personally wouldn’t run an Andersen “WDH” if it was free. There isn’t any good weight transferring physics behind its design. You don’t pick a wheelbarrow up by pulling the handles towards you, so why would you want to transfer weight that way.

Bottom line is that there are lots of options, and even more opinions. Get some ideas and do your own research.

 

[silver billet]

I like the equal-I-zer setup. It’s stout, which is important to me since I do a lot of back road travel with mine. It’s does a great job of transferring weight and isn’t too hard to setup. They have a model rated up to 16K, if I needed more I would look at the Blue Ox.

I wouldn’t focus on the anti-sway portion of a hitch, but rather the effectiveness of weight transfer. The only real way to eliminate sway is proper tongue weight. Don’t fall for the expensive hitches, they simply aren’t needed with a properly built and loaded trailer.

I personally wouldn’t run an Andersen “WDH” if it was free. There isn’t any good weight transferring physics behind its design. You don’t pick a wheelbarrow up by pulling the handles towards you, so why would you want to transfer weight that way.

Bottom line is that there are lots of options, and even more opinions. Get some ideas and do your own research.

I've never seen somebody so consistently post such bad information.

 

[AH64ID]

I've never seen somebody so consistently post such bad information.

You sound like you drink a lot of kool-aide and do zero independent thinking or research...

Then again, that was already known with your purchase history.

 

[unclelala]

Heres something else to fire things up boys

!

 

[silver billet]

You sound like you drink a lot of kool-aide and do zero independent thinking or research...

Then again, that was already known with your purchase history.

Let me add it up for you:
- you think air bags are better than WDH
- you think adding air bags won't lighten your front end
- you don't have a clue how the Andersen distributes weight
- you think WDH's don't need to control for sway

That's just the completely nuts stuff I saw from you, today.

 

[AH64ID]

Let me add it up for you:
- you think air bags are better than WDH

Please show me that quote. I don't beleive that in the slightest.

They do completely different things, and I have said numerous times that they work well together. I use both all the time when towing a TT, and will continue to do so.

- you think adding air bags won't lighten your front end

It won't, but I'd love to hear why you think air bags will lighten the front end.

It is possible you're referring to airbags with a trailer and no-WDH, but you didn't come close to saying that, in which case yes airbags won't do anything to restore front axle weight. Just grasping at straws here, since what you posted doesn't make any sense.

- you don't have a clue how the Andersen distributes weight

Quite the opposite. Physics is physics, maybe you should take a Physics 101 class?

- you think WDH's don't need to control for sway

They don't, that's simple. Sway is generally a function of either insufficient tongue weight, or an improperly built trailer. There are other things that can cause sway, but they aren't as common and I would hate to confuse you.

If you are experiencing sway and you "fix" it with any hitch then all you did was mask it, not fix it. Fix the issue, don't cover it up.


So, care to try again?

 

[unclelala]

Well I tried to distract them

 

[AH64ID]

Well I tried to distract them

I've seen that video before. I'd like to see one in person.

 

[silver billet]

Please show me that quote. I don't beleive that in the slightest.

They do completely different things, and I have said numerous times that they work well together. I use both all the time when towing a TT, and will continue to do so.



It won't, but I'd love to hear why you think air bags will lighten the front end.

Even seen a playground teeter totter? Two little kids on each end, uncompressable pivot in the middle. The fatter kid will raise the lighter kid. Now replace the pivot with a light spring; both kids hop on, they both sink when the pivot compresses.

That's whats happening when hooking up a TT. The rear axle/suspension is the pivot point, the two fat kids are your engine on the front and your tongue weight on the rear. The stiffer you make that rear suspension/pivot point (by adding air bags or sumo springs or timbrens), the more liable the front end is to wiggle off the ground.

Quite the opposite. Physics is physics, maybe you should take a Physics 101 class?



They don't, that's simple. Sway is generally a function of either insufficient tongue weight, or an improperly built trailer. There are other things that can cause sway, but they aren't as common and I would hate to confuse you.

A properly loaded trailer is the first step in fixing sway, but long trailers will still sway in heavy winds and by long heavy trucks.

If you are experiencing sway and you "fix" it with any hitch then all you did was mask it, not fix it. Fix the issue, don't cover it up.

No. You can fix sway by tweaking several different things, tongue weight is obviously crucial but after that a proper sway control hitch is critical for 25+ long trailers.

The husky centerline style of WDH reduces sway through the use of friction, as the bars slide across the bracket that holds them in place. The Andersen does not allow the trailer coupler to turn on the ball, instead the Anderson ball locks to the coupler and the ball itself moves inside the receiver, though movement is also there reduced through the use of friction.

The ProPride moves the horizontal pivot point over your axle, which eliminates sway completely.

 

[AH64ID]

Even seen a playground teeter totter? Two little kids on each end, uncompressable pivot in the middle. The fatter kid will raise the lighter kid. Now replace the pivot with a light spring; both kids hop on, they both sink when the pivot compresses.

That's whats happening when hooking up a TT. The rear axle/suspension is the pivot point, the two fat kids are your engine on the front and your tongue weight on the rear. The stiffer you make that rear suspension/pivot point (by adding air bags or sumo springs or timbrens), the more liable the front end is to wiggle off the ground.

As I suspected you meant something different than you said. You got the answer for your actual comment, not your intended comment. The weight transfer off or onto the front axle is irrelevant to the airbags it deals with payload/TW weight and moment.

See my addition above. It's quite obvious that any weight behind the rear axle will reduce the front axle weight, and just changing the ride height won't effect that.

The suspension is not a pivot point like a teeter totter thou, as it has vertical movement not rotational movement.

A properly loaded trailer is the first step in fixing sway, but long trailers will still sway in heavy winds and by long heavy trucks.

Are you confusing trailer sway with bow wave?

I've never had any issues with bow wave or heavy winds on long properly loaded TT's, never. Rock solid towing without sway control.

No. You can fix sway by tweaking several different things, tongue weight is obviously crucial but after that a proper sway control hitch is critical for 25+ long trailers.

The husky centerline style of WDH reduces sway through the use of friction, as the bars slide across the bracket that holds them in place. The Andersen does not allow the trailer coupler to turn on the ball, instead the Anderson ball locks to the coupler and the ball itself moves inside the receiver, though movement is also there reduced through the use of friction.

The ProPride moves the horizontal pivot point over your axle, which eliminates sway completely.

If there isn't sway there to begin with you don't need a hitch to "fix" it. It's a marketing gimmick, and a good one at that based on the number of people that throw money at a bandaid.