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Track bar vs Swaybar-23' Laramie CTD Crew 4x4

ofishl1

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I find a lot of posts around upgrading the rear to the Thuren track bar, appears to be mostly pointed at older Rebels, and PW's however little talk around the new CTDs track bars. I see the track bar on mine looks beefy so I assume its adequate.
However the rear Swaybar I see few discussions on upgrading it on new model year Rams, and wonder if most find it sufficient to do the job? My Ecodiesel swaybar was puny and when I put the Hellwig on it was a substantial difference being solid steel and not a bent tube. Are most finding the OEM swaybar is fine, or upgrading provides improved tow behavior with or without added weight /sway hitch systems? I will likley tow the trailer with and without depending on the distance, short hauls for overniters near our riding areas, but pulling up to 7000ft in the AZ mnts will likely put on some kind of trailer/ hitch system.
 

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ofishl1

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My new 23
 

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AH64ID

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My understanding is that the rear track bar geometry is the issue, and the thuren bar is longer to correct that.

The sway bar that’s commonly discussed is the front one, and it makes an awesome improvement.
 

ofishl1

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Thanks AH, I have read some say about wiggle and wander in the rear end, I have not had the truck long enough to experience this yet. The front one I read mostly is to take it off, and I agree it does give you a jolt going up a curb etc, same reason I disconnected it on my Turbo R RZR4.. better articulation and softer ride up front. So I assume the Thuren front sway bar may afford some softer behavior over curbs, bumps and such..
 

waveslayer

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Thanks AH, I have read some say about wiggle and wander in the rear end, I have not had the truck long enough to experience this yet. The front one I read mostly is to take it off, and I agree it does give you a jolt going up a curb etc, same reason I disconnected it on my Turbo R RZR4.. better articulation and softer ride up front. So I assume the Thuren front sway bar may afford some softer behavior over curbs, bumps and such..
When or if you do, you will want the upgraded track bar! The rocking was almost scary at high speeds
 

wilsonck

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I agree. The ride was improved with the Thuren rear trackbar. Loaded and unloaded
 

ofishl1

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You all have, had the same model track bar as in my pic off the 23?
 

ofishl1

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I get it, just thought maybe they made it beefier for 23' and it helped, but length of track bar seems to be key to keeping the axle from walking forward and back..took a long highway drive with the new shell on this afternoon..the added weight did seem to produce a little more wiggle, but nothing I would deem as scary or whoa..wait a minute, regardless upgrade is likely on top of the other "stuff"..damned ARE shells went WAY up from 2017 when I last bought for the EcoD..but..what hasn't...500 is cheap insurance to a stable rear end..especially when I hook to 10k..so far its been 4 to 5000lbs with a dual axle flatbed and a 2100lb RZR and havent really noticed anything...maybe with the shell on I will notice it more..
 

ofishl1

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..and did you need to have a shop do/check alignment after?
 

AH64ID

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You will want to get aligned to Thuren specs either way.
 

ofishl1

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I read that piece fromThuren, then its using one of their installers that will do the same, local Diesel shop $1200 with alignment
 

ofishl1

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Thuren also recommends a 20lb spread in tire pressures front to back, I found that surprising..may not be that much with a 180lb shell on the bed tho..have to watch the contact patch on the stock baloney skin firestones
 

AH64ID

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Thuren also recommends a 20lb spread in tire pressures front to back, I found that surprising..may not be that much with a 180lb shell on the bed tho..have to watch the contact patch on the stock baloney skin firestones

Pressure depends on load. Use a scale and the load:inflation tables.
 

wilsonck

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yes, I replaced it myself. It took longer than expected and I think as other threads say, you need some good drill bits as you need to drill a hole or two and make one bigger if I remember correctly.
 

ofishl1

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Thanks, I saw a good video on the job, looks like getting the bracket in the right spot and drilling in the right spot is key.. he didnt show having one done after..did you "need" an alignment check by a shop after..?
 

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