Talk Me Out Of Buying a 2500 vs 1500

[PotvinSux]

Really great info folks! Appreciate all the input. I do have a volume dealer here (Koons Tysons Corner) and I am thinking you guys are correct in building what I want.

 

[El Toro Blanco]

2500 is the way to go for what you say you want. Always kind of wonder why people start with a mid level trim and option it up. Then you end up paying almost as much as if you just went with the limited in the first place. I have the air suspension and it gives a great ride. And more importantly, I am always level when towing. IMHO it is a great option.

I optioned up my Bighorn to get a better payload capability, 6th person seating, and save over $10K from the Laramie.

The only things I believe I have given up were
- leather seats (I prefer cloth),
- 20" wheels (I wanted 18"s... replacement tires are cheaper and I have more sidewall, better for airing down off-road)
- front A/C seats (don't need with cloth)
- rear heated seats
- console...sort of (center seat still has underseat & seat back storage, and there is a drawer in the dash below the radio

These lost features gained me a couple hundred lbs of payload capability. Each of us look at it differently I guess. Cheers.

 

[PotvinSux]

Given your criteria no way I'd opt for the more complicated eTorque equipped 1500 for the same money as a more capable 2500 truck. If adverse weather conditions are a problem you won't go wrong with the PW either - easily the most capable truck I've ever owned (just make sure your tires are up to the task). The level 3 will be equivalent to the 1500 Limited as far as how nice the interior and everything else is. The LED projector headlights you will love as well.

If I was you I'd do the PW.

One other question.... how much does a rear locker help vs ELSD in snow? More specifically driving steep hills, switchbacks on snow covered roads. From research, and what I found on our forums, I would lock the rear ahead of time as I start to climb the steepest parts of my trip. For those who know the area, I travel often to Snowshoe WV from DC Metro area. Very interesting ride with major elevation changes. Should having the locker be a necessity??

"An electronic-locking differential enables the driver to prepare the vehicle for anticipated slippage, effectively pre-locking the axle vs. waiting for the LSD to kick in. This can provide a higher degree of control to the driver, especially if in a situation where sudden vehicle movement due to loss of traction would be undesirable. I've not owned a vehicle with an e-locker, but I look forward to testing it in a 'sticky situation' sometime soon."

 

[ClawSS]

I am NOT a user of a 2500 for what it is made for. I have more weight in my RamBox than I have yet to put IN the bed. 3500mi and nothing has entered my receiver hitch (giggity). I have a Megacab, but the most uses that has seen is a group of coworkers going to lunch and a couple of times the seats were folded down for groceries....honestly.

I am an OWNER of a gasser 2500 because that is what I liked the looks of and potential in case the need arises. I guess I'm a truck "prepper".

 

[El Toro Blanco]

Really great info folks! Appreciate all the input. I do have a volume dealer here (Koons Tysons Corner) and I am thinking you guys are correct in building what I want.

Strategy I used:
- Use the online tool to option the pickup how you want it.
- Email multiple dealers as to what you are looking to order.
- Explain you are shopping multiple dealers and you want to know their best 'out the door price'...that you do not 'need' a new pickup, but that you want one, and that you are not in a hurry.
- Check with your financial institution (bank, credit union), some offer discounts by purchasing thru them.
- Inform the higher dealers of the best price you were quoted...also let them know if your financial institution will beat their initial offer...give them a chance to counter.
- Once you have the lowest price, contact the next lowest offerer and ask them to make it worth your time to buy from them. I had one dealer say they couldn't get within $6k of that price, while another beat it by an additional $500 since they knew I had to drive an hour to get to them.
- Don't answer initial emails immediately, let them set a while... sometimes a day or more. (Reverse their 'game').

I started with 6 dealers within 150 miles, pared down to 3 players after a month of negotiations..got to a lowest 'out the door price' & ended up telling them to let me know when they would include the $250 bumper step! A month later I get an email...not only do I get the step, they did the whole bed pkg (lights, step & bed liner!) for the same price.

I already had a pickup, so I was more interested in the lowest price than getting a pickup right away. Your interests/ needs may be different.

Good luck in your search!

 

[kevin588127]

Ill be the oddball. If towing under 8K and staying within payload limits, the 1500 would be my choice. I thought you could order the 6'4" bed in the half ton, if so that would be a big plus. The halfton short box will be easier to maneuver and live with on a daily basis. I've had my '14 1500 for 7 years and have loved it. Iam going to the 2500 simply because I've outgrown the payload capacity of the 1500. It has pulled 10k on several occasions and regularly pulls 6-8k without any drama. I also feel that if fuel prices stay up or continue to go up, the 1500s will hold their value better. That is what happened in 2008 any way. Good luck whichever way you go, definitely look at ordering from Mark Dodge or one of the other volume dealers. You can save big money if you are willing to travel a bit.

 

[jetrinka]

One other question.... how much does a rear locker help vs ELSD in snow? More specifically driving steep hills, switchbacks on snow covered roads. From research, and what I found on our forums, I would lock the rear ahead of time as I start to climb the steepest parts of my trip. For those who know the area, I travel often to Snowshoe WV from DC Metro area. Very interesting ride with major elevation changes. Should having the locker be a necessity??

"An electronic-locking differential enables the driver to prepare the vehicle for anticipated slippage, effectively pre-locking the axle vs. waiting for the LSD to kick in. This can provide a higher degree of control to the driver, especially if in a situation where sudden vehicle movement due to loss of traction would be undesirable. I've not owned a vehicle with an e-locker, but I look forward to testing it in a 'sticky situation' sometime soon."

The Power Wagon diff is a locker but also a limited slip when not locked and it works fairly well. The only drawback I've found is that if one wheel has good traction (like on pavement) and the other is in mud or grass it tends to completely act like an open diff and spin the tire with no traction - however if both tires have less than optimal traction (like in snow) it works great. Its a helical style limited slip.

When we get snow here it is typically horrible, wet and snotty. Horrible traction, heavy and tends to push you all over the place. I have not needed the lockers once yet and it is also quite hilly. The limited slip in the back, in 4WD (when needed) and traction control disabled the PW (so far) has been unstoppable for my needs.

Keep in mind tires are your limiting factor. I would hope you would be running either a snow tire (hard to find in the stock size and impossible in larger sizes) or a good AT tire such as the BFG K02 or General Grabber A/TX. Something that has a softer tread compound and siping to bite with. Large lug MT tires may look cool and perform great on rocks and in sand/dirt but are next to useless in anything but super deep snow. Tires tires tires

 

[G’Dave]

Keep in mind tires are your limiting factor. I would hope you would be running either a snow tire (hard to find in the stock size and impossible in larger sizes) or a good AT tire such as the BFG K02 or General Grabber A/TX. Something that has a softer tread compound and siping to bite with. Large lug MT tires may look cool and perform great on rocks and in sand/dirt but are next to useless in anything but super deep snow. Tires tires tires[/QUOTE]

I’ve been running General Grabber AT/X tires (285/65r18) for almost 100,000 miles on my 1500. They’ve been awesome. I’ll probably put them in the 2500 when the time comes.
Sorry to go off topic….

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[dm6]

Given the size of the trucks are so similar, I'd go 2500 for sure.

1500 Max width: 79.9", Max height: 77.5"

2500 Max width: 79.4", Max height: 80.2"

Definitely this. I also believe the 1500 and 2500 6'4" boxes are the same length, so maneuverability should be the same. I went with the 2500 Hemi as well just in case I get a big trailer down the road and ordering one was actually quite a bit cheaper than a similarly optioned 1500 last year when I ordered it. The only thing that I don't like about it is the bed being so damn high off the ground. It doesn't help that I am short, but it is a pain to get stuff in the back without having to jump in it each time. This may not be as big of a problem for an average sized person

 

[Jsboening]

Definitely this. I also believe the 1500 and 2500 6'4" boxes are the same length, so maneuverability should be the same. I went with the 2500 Hemi as well just in case I get a big trailer down the road and ordering one was actually quite a bit cheaper than a similarly optioned 1500 last year when I ordered it. The only thing that I don't like about it is the bed being so damn high off the ground. It doesn't help that I am short, but it is a pain to get stuff in the back without having to jump in it each time. This may not be as big of a problem for an average sized person

I saw a mega cab with air suspension at my local dealer that had just come off the truck. I was shock at how much lower it sat in the rear than a regular 2500. It was about as low as a 1500. Add the bed step and getting stuff in and out shouldn’t be to bad.

 

[BikePilot]

I would do the 1500 if not plowing or going beyond it's payload capacity. More modern cab, smoother/nicer ride and better handling. Also likely to use quite a bit less fuel. Plowing, carrying heavy loads, etc then 3500 all day. I the 1500 might have an all wheel drive or 4x4 auto mode which is really nice on snowy roads.

 

[G’Dave]

I recently drove the new 1500 crew cab with a “long bed” (6’4), and then drove a 2500 crew cab “short bed” (6’4”).

These two trucks are virtually identical in length. The 1500 is marginally wider, and has a deeper box. They feel completely different to drive. The 1/2 ton drives like a car. The 3/4 ton is much more of a truck. You have to spin the steering wheel a bit more to navigate the same turns, and it feels heavier, and it’s not a plush ride like the 1500.

So depending on your attitude, the 2500/3500 might beat you up and be more “exhausting” to drive. The PW has relatively soft, long travel suspension and probably splits the difference.

But I’m anxiously waiting for my new 2500. The big thing for me is the crew cab with 8 foot bed. I can put 2 dirt bikes in the back, close the tailgate, and hook up the travel trailer. A beautiful thing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[El Toro Blanco]

I saw a mega cab with air suspension at my local dealer that had just come off the truck. I was shock at how much lower it sat in the rear than a regular 2500. It was about as low as a 1500. Add the bed step and getting stuff in and out shouldn’t be to bad.

With rear Air suspension on the 2500 you can drop the open tailgate height 3"s by simply pushing a button on the dash. Very nice.

 

[Millmutt]

I don't want to start a major debate here but when pricing out the following models, here is what I am getting:

1. 1500 Laramie, 6'4" box, V8 E-torque, 33 g fuel tank, air suspension (have this on my Grand Cherokee and love it), Night Edition, fully loaded = around $72,000
2. 1500 Limited, 6'4" box, V8 E-torque, 33 g fuel tank, air suspension, Night Edition = around $77,000
3. 2500 Power Wagon, Level 3, fully loaded = around $76,600
4. 2500 Laramie, Level B, RamBox, Air Suspension, Fully Loaded, Night Edition = Around $77,700

I don't need a diesel, not towing heavy, but do want a 6'4" box for hauling (will not be above payload of PW) . Side hustle is handyman type services where pickup bed is needed. I will be in the mountains of WV where there are steep hills and heavy snowfall. There is a chance of wanting to eventually plow snow with the truck (It's my understanding a PW is not recommended to plow due to front weight) though.

Not taking the plow scenario into consideration, why would I not upgrade to a 2500 if pricing is similar? I know fuel mileage will take a big hit but am I missing anything else that would cause someone to choose a 1500 over a 2500 with similar pricing? There are a few things the 2500 does not have vs a 1500. For example, Limited has more leather, LED headlights, better ride quality.

Thanks

I have a 3500 CTD CC long bed. If I could be in a 1500 I would. The 1500s are a lot more comfortable as a daily driver, have plenty of capacity and you can get a 6.4 bed. The hd truck is great but I wouldn’t have it if I didn’t need it. Great on the highway but pretty stiff on bumpy in town roads.

 

[Poolmonkey]

Large lug MT tires may look cool and perform great on rocks and in sand/dirt but are next to useless in anything but super deep snow. Tires tires tires

Just the opposite here in our alkali, any snow or rain at all the ATs become slicks...trucks wearing them should stay in camp. I wish ATs would be best for me because they are nice most of the time.

 

[orlando bull]

Just another note, all 8,000lb trailer loads are not the same. I would rank an RV or Cargo trailer at 8,000 lbs toward needing an HD truck. For a dump trailer/boat/etc, probably still good in a half ton. The wind factor on those larger loads gets tricky. I had a 27' box, 32' overall travel trailer with my F150 and though it was within all the specs, I was never comfortable with that trailer. Even when I got my 3500, I did one tow with it and the trailer was just not an easy tow (probably the layout was too rear loaded).

Just something to keep in mind.

 

[Poker-Joker-68]

Strategy I used:
- Use the online tool to option the pickup how you want it.
- Email multiple dealers as to what you are looking to order.
- Explain you are shopping multiple dealers and you want to know their best 'out the door price'...that you do not 'need' a new pickup, but that you want one, and that you are not in a hurry.
- Check with your financial institution (bank, credit union), some offer discounts by purchasing thru them.
- Inform the higher dealers of the best price you were quoted...also let them know if your financial institution will beat their initial offer...give them a chance to counter.
- Once you have the lowest price, contact the next lowest offerer and ask them to make it worth your time to buy from them. I had one dealer say they couldn't get within $6k of that price, while another beat it by an additional $500 since they knew I had to drive an hour to get to them.
- Don't answer initial emails immediately, let them set a while... sometimes a day or more. (Reverse their 'game').

I started with 6 dealers within 150 miles, pared down to 3 players after a month of negotiations..got to a lowest 'out the door price' & ended up telling them to let me know when they would include the $250 bumper step! A month later I get an email...not only do I get the step, they did the whole bed pkg (lights, step & bed liner!) for the same price.

I already had a pickup, so I was more interested in the lowest price than getting a pickup right away. Your interests/ needs may be different.

Good luck in your search!

So what was the msrp sticker price and then what was the dealer add -ons (paint and interior sealants, etc) price$origionally, and what did you finally get them down to. And was that with or without a trade in.?

I got Koons Dealership to drop 10.4k of their advertised price at the end of the month and 5.15% financing at my own bank (Bank of America) and my bank wanted 6.15% off their 2023 (7,200-miles) Cadillac xt6 fully loaded, super-cruise and it was only missing the “night vision” and I flew in from Jax. Florida. 9/29/2023
Thank you, Mike at PhatJag@BellSouth.net or PhatJag@Gmail.com.

 

[Brutal_HO]

So what was the msrp sticker price and then what was the dealer add -ons (paint and interior sealants, etc) price$origionally, and what did you finally get them down to. And was that with or without a trade in.?

I got Koons Dealership to drop 10.4k of their advertised price at the end of the month and 5.15% financing at my own bank (Bank of America) and my bank wanted 6.15% off their 2023 (7,200-miles) Cadillac xt6 fully loaded, super-cruise and it was only missing the “night vision” and I flew in from Jax. Florida. 9/29/2023
Thank you, Mike at PhatJag@BellSouth.net or PhatJag@Gmail.com.

Posting your email address on the internet is not advised, you will attract scammers and spam.

I recommend you edit your post to remove it and limit your comms to the discussion forums or Private Message here.

P.S. You're quoting a member that hasn't been seen in over a year.