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Right Steering Drift

cmh2007

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You certainly could have toe angles out that far. It would drive like crap and the tires would wear off of it. The difference side to side just means the tech didn’t have the steering set in the centered position when it recorded toe.
That is what i was getting at. The tech had to have the wheels cocked

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Crusty old shellback

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That is what i was getting at. The tech had to have the wheels cocked

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With the new laser machines they use now, the machine tells you when the wheels are straight ahead. It's basically dummy proof.

But it's up to the tech to know what he's doing to make the proper adjustments to get the alignment to where it needs to be.

Also total toe before alignment was .33 so it was out.

I've done alignments in my garage with just a level, plumb bob and ruler. Took it into a shop afterwards to have it checked and it was well within specs. ;)
 

mr wayne

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I have an appt with my local shop sat morning. With my caster at 3.9 left and 4.1 right, would I benefit from moving these numbers down? My toe is .10 and will be set to 0 or as close as possible. Sure would like to get that right hand drift out of it.
 

Crusty old shellback

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Set toe to as close to 0 as possible.

Set castor between 3.5 and 4.5 and make sure the cams are set the same between the two. There are markings you can see on them that let you know they are set the same. There is a bit of castor preset into one side. If you read the Thuren sheet, it explains it all.
 

jetrinka

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Set toe to as close to 0 as possible.

Set castor between 3.5 and 4.5 and make sure the cams are set the same between the two. There are markings you can see on them that let you know they are set the same. There is a bit of castor preset into one side. If you read the Thuren sheet, it explains it all.

^^^This. This is also why you will see the eccentric bolts in the lower arms slightly different from each other - due to some caster being built into the passenger side of the axle.

OP if it was me I would leave caster alone and just have the toe set to zero total. My caster was about what yours is, toe was out. It was apparent right away what just the proper toe setting does to the driveability of the truck. It still drifts for crown but I no longer felt like I had to muscle anything. Think of it this way. With the factory toe settings the front tires are turned in ever so slightly to the middle of the vehicle and since the tie rod on the truck is one solid unit from the left and right wheel there is absolutely no give in it - this makes each of the front wheels fight each other going down the road and causes tire wear. Zero total toe points them straight ahead so there is no fighting and no tire wear. There will still be drift but the truck is much easier to drive since the front end isn't fighting itself.

Its hard to describe but you will notice a difference. I called Thuren when doing mine and he advised to leave the caster where it was as well - especially on a stock suspension truck.
 

Dave88LX

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Choose your model:

Stabilizer options to give a little bit of steering correction if necessary:

This High-Mount Steering Stabilizer will push to the LEFT to counter a right-hand radial tire pull (commonly found on Toyo MT tires) OR it can be adjusted to a neutral pressure to provide superior damping without offering any directional correction.
 

newmason

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Taking mine back in after getting one alignment done. Truck pulled hard and noticed it on the test drive. Steering wheel still clocks to the right which is straight
 

Lift89

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I’ve had 12 alignments on my 2020 before I said duck it and went to an off-road shop, they put on a 1degree offset ball joint on my right side, aligned it to spec and it drive straight as an arrow now. This guy has don’t offset ball joint on tons of Ram Cummins front ends and he says it fixes it every time.


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Crusty old shellback

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I paid for mine at my local shop I trust. Plus the dealer is like 40 miles away and my local shop is like 4 miles.
 

mr wayne

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I'm paying my own way too. My dealership doesn't do alignments on these trucks. I would have to bring it to them and leave it. They will have a porter drive my truck to the alignment shop and back. Not happening.
 

cmh2007

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You honestly can do an alignment yourself with the tape measure. Ive done it several times

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jetrinka

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Not accurately. Certainly not just measuring off the backs of the wheels or tires. You can get it close that way if you've done a bunch of front end work and need to get it to an alignment shop. It'll be crab walkin the whole way though
 

Crusty old shellback

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Nope, you can set camber and toe at home with a level, ruler and plumb bob.
If you buy the right tool, you can do castor as well.
Biggest thing with setting toe is you make a mark on the wheel tread some where on each tire. You put those Mark's to the front, level, and measure. The rotate the tires so the mark is in the back and level and measure again. Subtract the two and you have your toe measurement. Done it a lot of times.
I'm sure there are plenty of videos on youtube of how to do it.
 

jetrinka

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I find it hard to believe you can get it to within .01 of a degree using that method. Like I said close but I'd be if it was put on an alignment rack afterwards it would be "out". If it works for ya though, more power to you.
 

cmh2007

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Not accurately. Certainly not just measuring off the backs of the wheels or tires. You can get it close that way if you've done a bunch of front end work and need to get it to an alignment shop. It'll be crab walkin the whole way though
Odd the 4 of them i did and checked with a laser, 100%

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cmh2007

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I find it hard to believe you can get it to within .01 of a degree using that method. Like I said close but I'd be if it was put on an alignment rack afterwards it would be "out". If it works for ya though, more power to you.
Its how they did it for years before laser alignment. Many of the most fameous race teams used strings and rulers and many to this day still use the good old string and tape

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