MCV
New Member
2020 Ram 3500 Tradesman, 6.7 HO diesel
dual batteries, dual alternator 440-amp, Uconnect 3, 5". No electrical modifications from factory.
On at least 10 occasions my batteries have been dead during first 14 months of ownership (purchased new Dec 2020). Seems very erratic, sometimes dying overnight, but almost always being dead if I have not driven the truck for 5+ days. Typically 100% discharged, such that there are zero interior lights, the key fob won't work, etc. I can successfully jump start (eventually) and the batteries then rapidly recharge with my dual alternators. A RAM dealer in Missoula said they had observed the issue with the Uconnect radio repeatedly attempting some update, but that often the flash for this radio required more than 12 hours!? .... I could not leave the vehicle for that long, so I later scheduled service in Colorado and left the vehicle for 4 days for evaluation and service. I was texted by the service advisor that indeed the radio was causing an intermittent phantom voltage draw (and causing the radio to irritatingly start-up at maximum volume, etc) but that a software update resolved the problem. (This contradicts the paperwork given to me that says they only observed 50-90 milliamp draw, and that I must keep the AUX switch shut off overnight regardless that nothing was plugged into it.) Unfortunately, my batteries were 100% dead after the truck was unused for five days after the service. The AUX switches were off as advised, and nothing plugged into the USB ports. Dual batteries should not 100% deplete in 5 days! The batteries reportedly test good (according to dealer), despite having been 100% discharged at least 6 or 7 times, and highly drained an additional 3 times. When the AUX switches are off (turning off the LED indicator lights), reportedly zero draw is observed on parasitic battery drain tests, perhaps supporting a hypothesis that it is a "computer-related" like UConnect trying to do an update at 3 am or something. But even this shouldn't pull enough amperage to kill dual batteries?
Of course, we have confirmed no interior lights left on. No glove box or underhood light in Tradesman. No added device like phone or GPS or camera. Battery cables seem tight; ground cables seem secure; no visually obvious frayed or damaged wiring based on a quick under-hood exam.
I have read from other RAM/Jeep/Dodge owners that they have had similar issues caused by the Uconnect radio, requiring a full replacement. Others have claimed that RAM got a batch of bad batteries. I have also read that discharging the auto batteries 100% flat at least 6 or 7 times will have done so much permanent damage to them that they will have permanently lost capacity. But dealer claims they are good.
I have been in contact with the service manager and he is willing to take the truck back in for further diagnostics. But I am >100 miles away, and the dealer won't provide an overnight loaner, and RAM has previously refused to pay the full cost of a rental car during previous warranty/recall service attempts. The service manager said he has never heard of a Uconnect radio causing an unusual parasitic draw, although his technician apparently documented it, based on the text messages I was sent. @RamCares was unable to help other than suggesting I take it to a dealer for evaluation.
I hate to have a brand new vehicle that is entirely untrustworthy. It seems to be a crap shoot as to whether the truck will start if I've left it parked overnight. Always starts perfectly with strong batteries if attempted within 12 hours. Sure, I can purchase a battery tender to solve my problems at home where I can plug it in overnight. But I'd like to be able to have a vehicle reliable enough to go on an overnight trip without being stranded.
Anyone out there been down this road that can offer some advice? Since it remains under warranty, I had hoped that RAM would solve it. However, I suppose I could start pulling fuses to disable the UConnect or something like that? Or I could purchase 2 new batteries out of pocket to see whether that helps. Or is there a more straightforward approach compared to trial and error, when error means being stranded somewhere? Is there an automated "battery isolator" approach that allows one of the dual batteries to be reserved just for starting the truck and prevent it from being drained?
Thanks for any input if you've experienced the problem
dual batteries, dual alternator 440-amp, Uconnect 3, 5". No electrical modifications from factory.
On at least 10 occasions my batteries have been dead during first 14 months of ownership (purchased new Dec 2020). Seems very erratic, sometimes dying overnight, but almost always being dead if I have not driven the truck for 5+ days. Typically 100% discharged, such that there are zero interior lights, the key fob won't work, etc. I can successfully jump start (eventually) and the batteries then rapidly recharge with my dual alternators. A RAM dealer in Missoula said they had observed the issue with the Uconnect radio repeatedly attempting some update, but that often the flash for this radio required more than 12 hours!? .... I could not leave the vehicle for that long, so I later scheduled service in Colorado and left the vehicle for 4 days for evaluation and service. I was texted by the service advisor that indeed the radio was causing an intermittent phantom voltage draw (and causing the radio to irritatingly start-up at maximum volume, etc) but that a software update resolved the problem. (This contradicts the paperwork given to me that says they only observed 50-90 milliamp draw, and that I must keep the AUX switch shut off overnight regardless that nothing was plugged into it.) Unfortunately, my batteries were 100% dead after the truck was unused for five days after the service. The AUX switches were off as advised, and nothing plugged into the USB ports. Dual batteries should not 100% deplete in 5 days! The batteries reportedly test good (according to dealer), despite having been 100% discharged at least 6 or 7 times, and highly drained an additional 3 times. When the AUX switches are off (turning off the LED indicator lights), reportedly zero draw is observed on parasitic battery drain tests, perhaps supporting a hypothesis that it is a "computer-related" like UConnect trying to do an update at 3 am or something. But even this shouldn't pull enough amperage to kill dual batteries?
Of course, we have confirmed no interior lights left on. No glove box or underhood light in Tradesman. No added device like phone or GPS or camera. Battery cables seem tight; ground cables seem secure; no visually obvious frayed or damaged wiring based on a quick under-hood exam.
I have read from other RAM/Jeep/Dodge owners that they have had similar issues caused by the Uconnect radio, requiring a full replacement. Others have claimed that RAM got a batch of bad batteries. I have also read that discharging the auto batteries 100% flat at least 6 or 7 times will have done so much permanent damage to them that they will have permanently lost capacity. But dealer claims they are good.
I have been in contact with the service manager and he is willing to take the truck back in for further diagnostics. But I am >100 miles away, and the dealer won't provide an overnight loaner, and RAM has previously refused to pay the full cost of a rental car during previous warranty/recall service attempts. The service manager said he has never heard of a Uconnect radio causing an unusual parasitic draw, although his technician apparently documented it, based on the text messages I was sent. @RamCares was unable to help other than suggesting I take it to a dealer for evaluation.
I hate to have a brand new vehicle that is entirely untrustworthy. It seems to be a crap shoot as to whether the truck will start if I've left it parked overnight. Always starts perfectly with strong batteries if attempted within 12 hours. Sure, I can purchase a battery tender to solve my problems at home where I can plug it in overnight. But I'd like to be able to have a vehicle reliable enough to go on an overnight trip without being stranded.
Anyone out there been down this road that can offer some advice? Since it remains under warranty, I had hoped that RAM would solve it. However, I suppose I could start pulling fuses to disable the UConnect or something like that? Or I could purchase 2 new batteries out of pocket to see whether that helps. Or is there a more straightforward approach compared to trial and error, when error means being stranded somewhere? Is there an automated "battery isolator" approach that allows one of the dual batteries to be reserved just for starting the truck and prevent it from being drained?
Thanks for any input if you've experienced the problem
