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Loss of tow vehicle stability after maintenance performed

deocder

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I am looking for some insight after having some maintenance performed on my 2019 2500 Laramie stock 6.7 Cummins. I tow a 36-foot bumper pull travel trailer with an Equalizer weight distribution hitch. Prior to the maintenance the system felt rock solid and was hardly affected by wind gusts and I could barely feel semi trucks passing by.

Day 1: 285/60 R20 OEM Transforce tires were replaced with 285/60 R20 Falken Wildpeaks
I did not tow between day 1 and day 2 or notice any issues with truck stability.

Day 2: I took the truck into a shop for a rattling sound in the front end and was told the ball joints were loose so had all 4 replaced. I also had the front brakes and rotors replaced as this was needed. I requested an alignment as well.
After taking possession of the car and leaving the shop I noticed 2 things. The steering felt different as if it was not as responsive...almost like I was driving in sand. The rattling was still present. I immediately took it back. The shop thought that the alignment could be off and assured me they would check all the work they had performed.

Day 3: I was told the alignment was correct but they could not find the source of the rattling. They told me they would use some electronic ears to identify the source. Later that day they assured me that all the other work they did looked good and they did not notice any issue with the alignment. I told them I needed to move my trailer that day but could take the truck back in so they could diagnose the rattle.

After taking the truck back I was still not convinced about the alignment or whatever was causing me to feel that the steering was different. The truck was not as stable as it once was. It feels like I have to constantly make adjustments to the steering wheel. Upon towing....something was clearly wrong. The stability issue was exacerbated. There was significant sway of the trailer. I could not go over 55 mph without severe anxiety. It was driving as if all the trailer weight was behind the back axles.

Day 4: I took the truck back in and told them something was definitely wrong. I requested that they check the alignment again but this time to set it to the Thuren specification based on some research that I had looked into. They called me back and told me the alignment was already within this spec. They assured me that the truck was safe to drive and had several of their techs drive the truck and all said it felt to be driving correctly. They also told me that they located the source of the rattle and suspected that it was coming from the driver's front wheel bearing as the electronic ear ended up being placed on the caliper bolt. I chose to not have them continue doing anything with the truck.

My next step is to take it to another shop for further diagnostics but I wanted to see if anyone here has some ideas as to what could be going on, specifically with the stability issue.
 

CdnHO

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Having the alignment checked at another shop would be my first step as well. You had several things done to the truck so if the alignment set to Thuren specs does not resolve your issue,the cause may be hard to pinpoint. I would also have the second shop check all the work of the original including ball joints and brakes. Would the original shop have removed the rotors and bearing to do the ball joints? Not pointing fingers but lots of sloppy work out there.
 

G Mcpherson

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Check the Alignment Cams. They should be facing towards the Rear and Equal, Mirrored. Set at About 3 Marks from the Back.
 

AH64ID

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New tires are notorious for tread squirm and need 500-1000 miles to firm up. This is likely a lot of what you’re feeling.

I do question the validity of the ball joint and brake replacement recommendations as both of those items should last significantly longer than the OEM trashforce tires.
 

Blythkd1

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First off, a 2500 is a truck, not a car.

2. I agree with the previous comment regarding new tires and deeper tread making it seem more squirmy.

3. Sounds like the new ball joints are tight. I've installed new ball joints on a HD truck and felt like I was constantly chasing it side to side until the ball joints finally broke in a bit. It made a GM drive like an HD Ford, if you're familiar with that feeling.
 

deocder

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I appreciate the replies. I should add that the Transforce tires were new at 28k when I purchased the vehicle used. These new Wildpeaks were done at 67K along with the ball joints/brakes and rotors.

I will check the alignment cams when I return to the truck in a few days as I'm still away for Thanksgiving. Tread squirm makes a lot of sense and I certainly hope that it goes away.
 

AH64ID

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Even 67K seems early for BJ’s and brakes/rotors.

Hopefully it’s just tread squirm and you’ll get all squared away with some miles on it.
 

ammdrew

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getting caster and toe wrong can make driving suck.. Take the truck to another alignment shop.. They should also have a print out of the alignment results they did.. should show before and after. Not very many service writers have been trust able unfortunately over the past few years.
 

Crusty old shellback

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I had to replace my front pads at 45K.
And I'd have someone else check the alingment. Also look into using the Thuren specs for the alingment. You will be glad you did. Factory specs have a huge margin of error. Thuren uses a lot smaller window for alingment.
 

IndyRamMega

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Put those wild peaks on my dually and pulled my GN with 2 jeeps on it to Moab....as soon as I got back I dumped the falkens in favor of the stiffer nitto ridge grap....the falkens swayed like crazy....their sidewalls suck imo.....

It's also not uncommon for new BJ's to be a bit stiff and take 500 or so miles to break in....
 

AH64ID

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I had to replace my front pads at 45K.

That’s less surprising on a PW, unless the OP doesn’t use his EB or city drives a lot diesel brakes should last considerably longer than gas brakes.

My 18 had over half the pads left at 45K miles, which wasn’t as good as my 05 but the 05 had a manual transmission and would run the EB at a lower speed.

And I'd have someone else check the alingment. Also look into using the Thuren specs for the alingment. You will be glad you did. Factory specs have a huge margin of error. Thuren uses a lot smaller window for alingment.

Agree. Thuren specs make the trucks drive awesome.
 

deocder

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Check the Alignment Cams. They should be facing towards the Rear and Equal, Mirrored. Set at About 3 Marks from the Back.
This is how they are currently set. First pic is passenger side, second driver side. Is the first mark considered 0 or 1? If it’s 0, then these are set correct.
 

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G Mcpherson

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Back is about 4 or 5 O' Clock Passenger an 7 or 8 Driver. If it rides well and close side to side your good to go
 

deocder

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Back is about 4 or 5 O' Clock Passenger an 7 or 8 Driver. If it rides well and close side to side your good to go
The passenger side is at 7 o'clock and the driver is at 4 o'clock. I'm the op so it doesn't drive so well. I'll assume that I can't just adjust these so will look for an alignment shop to review everything and set to Thuren specs.
 

Brutal_HO

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They look fine to me.

Disregard "clock" and go by the marks, they should be equal.*

You're shooting for +3.8-4.3° caster for Cummins trucks.

* you can add a little cross caster to correct a pull to one side. A smart alignment shop knows when/why to do this but it's a last resort and tricky to dial in.

The correct link to CJC's "Thuren spec" alignment info is: https://www.cjcoffroad.com/pages/alignment

Tight ball joints can affect the caster and may be causing your issues. I have the same tires in 285/65r20 and never experienced any squirm, but I pull a 5th wheel.
 

deocder

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I took the truck to a shop today. They checked the alignment and found it to be as shown in the attachment. They drove the truck and felt what I was talking about. They pulled apart the tie rods and found that the ends felt free to rotate. They moved wheels around in several different positions. Still, the issue persisted. They removed the steering dampener and had me drive it and I still felt the issue. The agree that the alignment could be tweaked a bit but that it wouldn't solve the issue. Their final analysis is "Steering memory. Need to replace or reseat ball joints." As a reminder, these were replaced about a thousand miles ago.

The ball joints that were installed are Mevotech MS25532 and MS25506 and this shop suggested that I make a warranty claim so I'll be making some calls tomorrow.
 

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Crusty old shellback

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Your Castor should be set at 4 degrees. That's the cams everyone is mentioning.
Yes the toe is within "spec" but not correct. You never want positive toe on a straight axle.
Read the post on the CJC site. It explains a lot.

Also check your tire pressure and make sure they are correct for the weight of your truck, NOT what's on the door label, that's for max weight the truck can handle.
 

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