I've had my '21 for one week, as of today.....

[Vroooom]

....and I love it.

Ordered it on 10/19....picked it up last Tuesday the 15th. (Full time-line is listed in a separate thread.)
2021 RAM 2500 Mega Cab, 6.4L hemi, 4wd, Ramboxes, 4:10 with limited slip, Towing Package, Towing Technology Group, Laramie Level 2, Safety Group, Off-Road Package, Night Edition, Granite Chrystal Metallic, Retractable Running Boards.

I previously had a 2017 Ram 2500 laramie, and a 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie.

Mods (so far):
Replaced the OEM Firestones with Falken Wildpeak AT3W (not that AT3WA OEM crap the that comes on trucks) 35x12.5R20 tires on the OEM 20" Night Rims.
B&W Turn-over Gooseneck hitch. GNRK1320
Curt Gooseneck wiring adapter 56070
ReTrax PRO MX 80235

Ive had it a week, now and have put just over 700 miles on it. I am very VERY impressed with the ride quality...smooth and quiet. MUCH better than my 2017 2500 and I would say very comparable with my 2019 1500. The Bilstein shock REALLY make a huge difference.

The 35x12.5 wildpeaks give only very slight rub on MAX left-turn. If I werent listening and feeling for it, I probably wouldnt notice it, at all. I've used Wildpeaks, KO2's, Ridge Grapplers, Even Sumitomo's, in the past. I'm very happy with my AT3W tire choice.

My previous 2500 was a Sport/Black edition that I bought off the lot because, while I did months of research, I didnt know what to research FOR. The Sport had a 3:73 rear end and only had a towing capacity of just over 12k.....only slightly better than my 1500 which had 11.4k. This 2021 2500, has a 4:10 rear end and a towing capacity of 16,600#; I designed it specifically for towing because I hope (and plan) to get into hot-shotting....finger crossed.

Yes, there are plenty of truck that certainly have higher towing capacity and higher payload. But I do not have nor do I want a CDL. So I wanted the best truck (for me) that would be practical for staying under 26,001#. Truck GVWR of 10,000# and I'll find just the right gooseneck rated at 16,000.

None of that is very relevant to my week with my 2021. Ive done some light towing, 6000-7000# bumper-pull deck-over. Effortless. 8000# bumper-pull dump trailer with about 2k on board. Effortless.

There are some insignificant issues, so far. I mention them here for others to use as comparison. I certianly dont look for thinks to snivel about. I'll have the squawk-list addressed when I take it in for service:
- on-board OAT (outside air temp) hangs-up on whatever temp it first reads in the mornings...and then shows that same temp alllll day long.
- dash-board air vent nearest the drivers door only open about 25% and has very restricted air flow.
- rear parking sensor constantly alerts (whenerver in reverse) even when theres nothing back there.
- Drivers side rambox (I like to call em saddle-bags) snags on something when I try to open it.
- Both ramboxes (saddle bags) dont close completely. Factory left them adjusted for a loose close. This may be an attempt to address the known issue of the rambox lids warping in the heat and turning banana-shaped. (see seperate thread on this known issue). This is only my speculation.

In summary...I am very happy.

I'll update again...when the time comes.

Happy Trails, yall.

 

[Heckyl]

If you have a trailer hitch on, your rear parking sensor needs to be turned off

 

[farmallboy]

Sounds like a nice rig for sure. I need gooseneck setup but the ram boxes would be awesome to have. I hate that the factory prep doesn't work with them.

I just couldn't install another b&w.

 

[Vroooom]

If you have a trailer hitch on, your rear parking sensor needs to be turned off

That's what I'm thinking. I do keep the tri-ball hitch in-place. And I think that may be what it triggering the back-up warning which sounds-off about 80-90% of the time when I am backing up. Sadly, I reckon my 2017 and 2019 were just smart enough to figure out that if the "object" is moving with the the vehicle (and not moving towards it) then perhaps it should be disregarded.

Alternatively, maybe the earlier models were not as "sensitive" and didnt realize that I had a hitch in-place. Or perhaps I was just oblivious and didnt realize the earlier models were also warning me about the hitch but I was not paying attention. (shrug)

Again, fortunately its not a significant annoyance. I push the button and it shuts up. hahahaha

Im giving strong consideration to going to a B&W Tow & Stow hitch with 5" drop. Hoping that the drop might put it below the line of the sonar, or that I could "stow" the hitch (tuck it up under the receiver) and then the sonar couldn't see it.

 

[RV_Goose]

Enjoy you new truck.

As far as the CDL, you might want to review the federal regulations for trailer rated for over 10k.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Hot shotting with a hemi is going to be hard to make good money as the fuel millage is going to suffer big time.... the rear sensors are fine with a hitch that is straight out but a hitch with anything on the sides like a wd hitch or tri ball will trigger them

 

[Vroooom]

Enjoy you new truck.

As far as the CDL, you might want to review the federal regulations for trailer rated for over 10k.

I am only familiar with:

§383.91 Commercial motor vehicle groups.​

(a) Vehicle group descriptions. Each driver applicant must possess and be tested on his/her knowledge and skills, described in subpart G of this part, for the commercial motor vehicle group(s) for which he/she desires a CDL. The commercial motor vehicle groups are as follows:

(1) Combination vehicle (Group A)—Any combination of vehicles with a gross combination weight rating (GCWR) of 11,794 kilograms or more (26,001 pounds or more) provided the GVWR of the vehicle(s) being towed is in excess of 4,536 kilograms (10,000 pounds).

If there is something else that could cause me hiccups, please let me know. I have no desire bend the rules.

 

[Vroooom]

Hot shotting with a hemi is going to be hard to make good money as the fuel millage is going to suffer big time.... the rear sensors are fine with a hitch that is straight out but a hitch with anything on the sides like a wd hitch or tri ball will trigger them

I’m still learning about all this stuff and I am WELL AWARE that learning from books and internet are no comparison to real world experience....so I am all ears for any feedback.

that being said, I do have some experience with operating Ford F-250 diesels and from that experience, plus some research, I see that while the diesels ABSOLUTELY have their advantages in MANY areas....so do gassers.

for example, when comparing miles per gallon....diesel wins....every time.

however, when you look at that from a DOLLARS PER MILE computation, the balance shifts considerably and gas wins MOST of the time (but not all).

this is taking into consideration that diesel uses less fuel. Which is great. But you also have to factor in the def fluid....which adds to the cost per mile. The increased maintenance cost (s) of diesels adds to the dollars to mile. See how the math starts to shift?

if I lived in Colorado.....diesel....hands down....no hesitation (other than diesels don’t like cold weather and having to leave an engine idling to keep the fuel from jelling.....adds to cost per mile..,.but not much.)

but I live in central Texas and the biggest hill within a days-drive of me is the local land-fill. (Not a problem)

I was really on the fence with Cummins vs hemi (awesome video on YouTube about the origin of the Cummins engine). What broke the tie for me was the added weight of the Diesel engine would reduce my payload significantly.

in the ends it’s one of those choices that no matter what I choose....I’d be wrong and wish I had chosen the other way.

I even had sales people try to get me to bite the extra $10,000 for a diesel engine by saying that my resale value would be higher. I told them that I don’t buy a vehicle to sell it. I buy it to use it. And then I poured to the nada guide and showed him how allllllllllllll of the previous years of trucks didn’t have the corresponding 10kndiffrreince in either trade-in or resale value. Indicating that the diesels actually lost value faster than gassers.

again.....not trying to stir-up a diesel vs gas pissing match with ANYONE. Like I said....each has advantages and disadvantages. I’m almost certainly wrong about nearly everything. And I look forward to having fun learning along the way.

 

[RV_Goose]

I am only familiar with:

§383.91 Commercial motor vehicle groups.​

(a) Vehicle group descriptions. Each driver applicant must possess and be tested on his/her knowledge and skills, described in subpart G of this part, for the commercial motor vehicle group(s) for which he/she desires a CDL. The commercial motor vehicle groups are as follows:

(1) Combination vehicle (Group A)—Any combination of vehicles with a gross combination weight rating (GCWR) of 11,794 kilograms or more (26,001 pounds or more) provided the GVWR of the vehicle(s) being towed is in excess of 4,536 kilograms (10,000 pounds).

If there is something else that could cause me hiccups, please let me know. I have no desire bend the rules.

It really is clear as mud.

The role of GVWR and GCWR in specifying work trucks

www.ntea.com

And I found out that I have to obtain a non-CDL class A in NC because my camper has a GVWR over 10k! Florida does not have such requirements.

 

[AkFire422]

That's what I'm thinking. I do keep the tri-ball hitch in-place. And I think that may be what it triggering the back-up warning which sounds-off about 80-90% of the time when I am backing up. Sadly, I reckon my 2017 and 2019 were just smart enough to figure out that if the "object" is moving with the the vehicle (and not moving towards it) then perhaps it should be disregarded.

Alternatively, maybe the earlier models were not as "sensitive" and didnt realize that I had a hitch in-place. Or perhaps I was just oblivious and didnt realize the earlier models were also warning me about the hitch but I was not paying attention. (shrug)

Again, fortunately its not a significant annoyance. I push the button and it shuts up. hahahaha

Im giving strong consideration to going to a B&W Tow & Stow hitch with 5" drop. Hoping that the drop might put it below the line of the sonar, or that I could "stow" the hitch (tuck it up under the receiver) and then the sonar couldn't see it.

You nailed it on the sensitivity of the older models. My 2020 picks up oncoming traffic/humans/dogs much much quicker than my 18. My hitch is always on, my rear sensors beep at first if then they quit though, so I have not turned them off.

just a question, if you put such an importance on towing, why not go for the 6.7TD. I have towed on Alaskan highways with both, and the engine break alone is worth the $9k upgrade when you have >10k-lbs behind you.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

I’m still learning about all this stuff and I am WELL AWARE that learning from books and internet are no comparison to real world experience....so I am all ears for any feedback.

that being said, I do have some experience with operating Ford F-250 diesels and from that experience, plus some research, I see that while the diesels ABSOLUTELY have their advantages in MANY areas....so do gassers.

for example, when comparing miles per gallon....diesel wins....every time.

however, when you look at that from a DOLLARS PER MILE computation, the balance shifts considerably and gas wins MOST of the time (but not all).

this is taking into consideration that diesel uses less fuel. Which is great. But you also have to factor in the def fluid....which adds to the cost per mile. The increased maintenance cost (s) of diesels adds to the dollars to mile. See how the math starts to shift?

if I lived in Colorado.....diesel....hands down....no hesitation (other than diesels don’t like cold weather and having to leave an engine idling to keep the fuel from jelling.....adds to cost per mile..,.but not much.)

but I live in central Texas and the biggest hill within a days-drive of me is the local land-fill. (Not a problem)

I was really on the fence with Cummins vs hemi (awesome video on YouTube about the origin of the Cummins engine). What broke the tie for me was the added weight of the Diesel engine would reduce my payload significantly.

in the ends it’s one of those choices that no matter what I choose....I’d be wrong and wish I had chosen the other way.

I even had sales people try to get me to bite the extra $10,000 for a diesel engine by saying that my resale value would be higher. I told them that I don’t buy a vehicle to sell it. I buy it to use it. And then I poured to the nada guide and showed him how allllllllllllll of the previous years of trucks didn’t have the corresponding 10kndiffrreince in either trade-in or resale value. Indicating that the diesels actually lost value faster than gassers.

again.....not trying to stir-up a diesel vs gas pissing match with ANYONE. Like I said....each has advantages and disadvantages. I’m almost certainly wrong about nearly everything. And I look forward to having fun learning along the way.

I dont know where you think cost per mile the gas is better gas is more expensive so the def price is negated and diesels get longer service intervals so that makes up for the service costs..... my biggest reasoning is when hotshoting or putting lots of miles on like i do you will kill the hemi long before the cummins i have no interest in replacing the truck every 5 years because of a dead gasser.... of your happy with a gasser thats perfectly fine too

 

[Vroooom]

You nailed it on the sensitivity of the older models. My 2020 picks up oncoming traffic/humans/dogs much much quicker than my 18. My hitch is always on, my rear sensors beep at first if then they quit though, so I have not turned them off.

just a question, if you put such an importance on towing, why not go for the 6.7TD. I have towed on Alaskan highways with both, and the engine break alone is worth the $9k upgrade when you have >10k-lbs behind you.

Totally understandable question and one that I struggled with for months while I was “designing” my truck. And every day I wonder if I did...or didn’t....choose wisely.

BOTH engine options have their advantages AND their disadvantages.

diesel gets more miles per gallon, but diesel costs more dollars per gallon. So plug that into a spread sheet and compare dollars per mile to get a real apples to apples comparison. Comes close to an even match.

add the cost of def fuel for a diesel....heavier towing consumes even more def fuel. Not a huge factor, but it weighs slightly against the diesel, especially if you don’t pay attention and manage to let it run out. Gas pulls ahead slightly.

oil change....just in terms of volume....diesels need more oil. Oil ain’t free. Mo-oil = mo-money. Gas pulls slightly ahead.

with each oil change, it is recommended that diesels get their fuel/separator filter changed. This is one reason an oils change at the dealership (full synthetic and all recommended filters) is $79 for gas vs $280 for diesel. I always buy the Mopar triple-play (three synthetic oil changes for $99). So I get a year of oil changes for the price of one oil change on a diesel (no triple play for diesel). Yes, I can get changes cheaper elsewhere, and I can do them myself, but we are having a comparisons discussion.

gasoline is available at EVERY fueling station. Diesel is available at ALMOST every fueling station (not all) and many of those stations have a line of trucks at a few diesel pumps and empty slots next to gas pumps. Waiting in line costs me money, gas pulls further ahead.

diesel mechanics are more difficult to find. I live near a large dealership in a predominantly agricultural community....LOTS of diesel vehicles....the dealership has 42 mechanics. 3 of them are for diesels. Again, I CAN find diesel mechanics but this is just one example. If my truck has to wait an extra day (or 5) for the designated diesel mechanic to be available to look at it....that costs me money. I’m not old enough to require seeing specialist every time I go to the doctor, my truck shouldn’t need a specialist, either. Gas is pulling further ahead.

I’m in Tx, where is doesn’t get cold very often, but it can get cold. Diesels have a fuel/water separator than can freeze and bust. And diesels require lots of battery power for starting. And diesel fuel can turn sludgy in the cold. ALL of which are compensated for in many areas by folks planning ahead and taking precautions. But as you’ve seen in the news, lately, we don’t do that, ‘round here. Planning ahead is for (pan)sies. We just like to get into trouble and find ways of blaming everyone else. But before I get lost on a rant about inept people, I’ll try to stay focused on machines. Two weeks ago I jump started 4 trucks in sub freezing temps. Every one of them was a diesel. If I’m dead in some Walmart parking lot because my two batteries ($200 each) don’t have the oooomph to crank my engine.....that costs me money. Gas has its issues, but it is less finicky.

a Diesel engine weighs 900 pounds MORE than a gas engine. That weight applies to your gvwr and gcvwr. My 2500 can LEGALLY pull 1470 pounds more than my boss’s f350 long-bed diesel. A bigger factor than the impact on gvwr is the impact on payload (what I can haul IN the truck). A 2500 grasser has a higher payload than the identically equipped 2500 diesel. Why does that matter? Because a percentage of your trailer weight is appointed to the gooseneck/5th wheel in the bed. THAT weight is “payload”. The higher my payload capacity, the higher that number can be and thus the more I can tow.

Texas is mostly flat. As I’ve said, the biggest mountain within 100 miles of me is the county land fill “Mount waste-al-ot”. If I were towing in predominantly hilly or mountainous terrain, that would change my math, considerably.

all this makes me sound like a diesel-hater. I’m not. Every time my engine 5000 rpm, I wonder if I should chosen differently.

my 4:10 gearing is great for the 10% of the time that I am towing but it f’n sucks if I ain’t hauling.

the biggest factors in me choosing gas:

A). the Diesel engine costs $9,000 more than the hemi. At a price difference of over fifty cents per gallon between gas and diesel, I can buy a ****-ton of fuel with that $9k. Even if the dollars-per-mile math wasn’t even (as mentioned above)

b). I spent $3100 and bought the unlimited mileage maximum care Mopar warranty. For the next 7-years, I can put INFINITE miles on my truck and damn near everything is covered. (I’ve had and used this warranty with several past vehicles...love it.). Unlimited mileage warranties are not available for diesel.
I drive a lot.

So.....again....I’m not ****ting on diesels. I like diesels. Diesels are great. Diesels are awesome. But they aren’t perfect and they aren’t for everyone. And these are some of the reasons that diesel isn’t right for me.....I think.....maybe.....today....ask me again tomorrow....etc

 

[Nick]

With what you tow a gasses is a smart choice

 

[Woodall83]

PICTURES!!!

 

[Vroooom]

PICTURES!!!

Looks like any other Granite M/C. But I think Ive seen other threads where you have one on order, and I completely understand the thirst for visual-gratification (been there, done that...a lot).

I'll try to figure out how to send you some pix of my truck.

 

[Xflight29]

If a person needs to be worried about miles per gallon or the cost of gas/fuel they probably should not be towing in the first place. You can not even come close to what a diesel engine and the transmission + breaking to a gas engine with loads upwards of 13K a diesel will out perform on miles per gallon in which makes up any difference in cost to a gas engine running 4000 rpm up a grade. With what your are towing I think you mad the right choice.

 

[Vroooom]

If a person needs to be worried about miles per gallon or the cost of gas/fuel they probably should not be towing in the first place. You can not even come close to what a diesel engine and the transmission + breaking to a gas engine with loads upwards of 13K a diesel will out perform on miles per gallon in which makes up any difference in cost to a gas engine running 4000 rpm up a grade. With what your are towing I think you mad the right choice.

I thought so too.

as I mentioned earlier, fuel efficiency and fuel cost are a small factor in the calculus of my decision. But they are still a factor. Acquisition cost, operation cost, maintenance cost, all of those are also factors. The salesman claiming that the diesel has a better resale valueHas some truth, but if you look at in a DA guides and compare diesel versus gas in previous years you will see that there isn’t that much of a difference. So projections that some future sale will have a huge difference have no basis in reality.

Probably the biggest determiner is the fact that I do not have, and currently do not want, a CDL. With that in mind, I do not Need, and do not want, a more expensive truck that can pull more than my drivers license can.

For the moment, with my non-CDL limitations, a gas truck can outperform, alto, and out economize, a diesel engine with the same non-CDL limitations.

If/when I do ever decide to get a CDL, or I move in to an area with more topographical variations, or if hot shotting becomes my primary source of income, then I will reevaluate the economics of a diesel engine.

For now, I agree with you, I think I made the best decision for my circumstances.

 

[dodgebot]

I dont know where you think cost per mile the gas is better gas is more expensive so the def price is negated and diesels get longer service intervals so that makes up for the service costs..... my biggest reasoning is when hotshoting or putting lots of miles on like i do you will kill the hemi long before the cummins i have no interest in replacing the truck every 5 years because of a dead gasser.... of your happy with a gasser thats perfectly fine too

i just bought a 2020 2500 cummins dodge, what is the recomended service interval

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

i just bought a 2020 2500 cummins dodge, what is the recomended service interval

Up to 24000km is what my manual calls for just follow the oil life monitor

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

My rear park sensor and my hitch are not compatible and it’s just a normal heavy duty adjustable drop hitch. I just keep that sensor turned off when the hitch is in the receiver.