Guaranteed "No Mess" Rear Fuel Filter Removal Tool

[diesel_driver_3500]

I commented in another thread that I would post pictures of the "tool" I made to make changing the rear fuel filter a truly no mess task. @Brutal_HO if this is posted in the wrong place, please move it to the appropriate section.

In the past, I have designed and manufactured custom billet parts for BMW race bikes. They were sold world wide, and I enjoyed the whole process and experience.

My plan for this tool was to build a crude prototype, refine it, and then manufacture and sell it to distributers and through retail outlets. Manufacturing costs would be minimal, with the largest expense being the cost of molds for injection molding of the catch tank. The socket extension would need to be included to eliminate the chance of leaks, but the cost of the tank itself would be minimal, and the complete tool wouldn't be too expensive. Then I changed my mind and decided to give back to all the forum members, and show everyone how to make it themselves.

I threw this together one morning, and it performed better than I had imagined. Laying under my truck and changing the filter in my new 2021 for the first time, I was rewarded with an absolute "no mess" filter change. I had been dreading the filter change after reading all the horror stories of fuel running down your arms and driveshaft, and the mess in general. Without exaggeration, you could wear a suit and tie when changing the filter with this. It works that well.

Here are a few pictures, and I'll explain the parts I used in my next post.

 

[DontSlamMyRam]

I love it! Thank You!!

 

[Nick]

Great idea !

 

[flan]

I just emptied a jug of WW fluid topping off the wife’s suv, I’m 50% there....

 

[ironmike]

I commented in another thread that I would post pictures of the "tool" I made to make changing the rear fuel filter a truly no mess task. @Brutal_HO if this is posted in the wrong place, please move it to the appropriate section.

In the past, I have designed and manufactured custom billet parts for BMW race bikes. They were sold world wide, and I enjoyed the whole process and experience.

My plan for this tool was to build a crude prototype, refine it, and then manufacture and sell it to distributers and through retail outlets. Manufacturing costs would be minimal, with the largest expense being the cost of molds for injection molding of the catch tank. The socket extension would need to be included to eliminate the chance of leaks, but the cost of the tank itself would be minimal, and the complete tool wouldn't be too expensive. Then I changed my mind and decided to give back to all the forum members, and show everyone how to make it themselves.

I threw this together one morning, and it performed better than I had imagined. Laying under my truck and changing the filter in my new 2021 for the first time, I was rewarded with an absolute "no mess" filter change. I had been dreading the filter change after reading all the horror stories of fuel running down your arms and driveshaft, and the mess in general. Without exaggeration, you could wear a suit and tie when changing the filter with this. It works that well.

Here are a few pictures, and I'll explain the parts I used in my next post.

This is super genius!!!! I hate that filter change!! After all the precautionary planning and prep to have a no mess filter change, inevitably, it fails and fuel on drive line and elsewhere.... even after draining with hose to can, rotating cap, drain some more, then go for the removal..... Just a little more cleanup than i want... lol
Great job on the prototype!!

 

[G Mcpherson]

Looks good. What was used to seal around the extension thru the cap?

 

[Brutal_HO]

Nice. Another, "Why didn't I think of that."

FWIW, When I did mine, I put a short hose on the drain nipple, then added a longer (larger) hose to drain into a bucket. The mistake I made was closing the drain before loosening the filter housing. I think had I left it open, it would have been less mess (but still not as spotless as OP design).

P.S. I also don't understand why RAM didn't extend the front filter housing drain tube lower...

 

[diesel_driver_3500]

As I mentioned in my original post, I just wanted to put something together quickly for a proof of concept, so I used what I had laying around, and this was the result.

The parts list:
One gallon vinegar jug - I do not have the exact height that I cut the jug handy. I will get that later today.
The cap is from a 2-1/2 gallon water jug - These are from our spring water that we buy at the grocery store. This will accept the drive extension with a tight seal.

Tools purchased from MSC Direct:
Proto 1/2" drive impact socket extension - 5" length - Item #85036218
Proto 1/2" drive 1-1/8" standard universal impact socket - 6 point - 3" length - Item #59479089

Assembly:
Cut the gallon jug to length
Slide the 5" extension into the water jug cap. This should be a tight fit for obvious reasons. You can soften the cap with a heat gun or hot water to help with inserting the extension. Tighter the better!
Snap the cap from the water jug onto the gallon jug, then add some sealing tape to keep the cap securely attached to the jug.

That's it. $4 for bottles/jugs and $11 for the extension. You can use any extension and socket, Just put it all together and fine tune the length of the jug to the extension and socket you are using. The Proto brand extension fit the cap with a tight seal, but I'm sure other brands would work.

Instead of using the water jug cap, you could simply insert the socket extension into the jug and fill the bottom with RTV or some other sealant that can withstand diesel without dissolving. A rubber cork or plug would work also. My original plan was to injection mold a plastic jug with a built-in extension. Super simple and inexpensive.

The handle built into the jug gives you something to securely hold onto when lowering the filter, and the parts I used allow the jug to rotate on the extension, without leaking, while un-screwing the filter housing. The rotation is not needed, but a nice option.

When I changed my filter, I did not drain the housing first. The jug as shown holds the housing, filter, and all the diesel inside the filter housing easily. The size of everything allows you to easily drop the jug, filled with the filter/housing and fuel, down to the ground without spilling anything. I did lay a shop rag on top of the driveshaft before I started. This was my first time changing the filter, so I was not sure what to expect. When I was finished, the shop rag was completely dry, without so much as a single drop of fuel on it.

One modification that some might want to make would be the addition of a drain hose to the catch jug. A simple nipple added with a hose attached would allow the fuel to flow from the catch jug while removing the housing into a larger drain pan on the ground. Again, not needed, but just an option. This gives everyone a starting point to build on.

My truck is a 2021 Short Bed Crew Cab H.O. I don't know what the differences would be between my truck and a mega cab or long bed, as far as driveline clearances, angles, and fuel tank locations. Small clearance variations should not be a problem with the parts I used. Also, with a little searching, you may be able to find a jug slightly smaller in diameter, giving some additional wiggle room.

Here are a couple pictures of the water jug caps that I used.

 

[Brutal_HO]

I would always still drain the filter housing first if you intend to put the captured fuel back into the tank. However unlikely, if there's any bit of water in there, draining first will ensure it doesn't end up back in the system.

 

[Nick]

Thanks the info . I will definitely put one together . A brilliant and cheap way to solve a messy problem .

 

[diesel_driver_3500]

Looks good. What was used to seal around the extension thru the cap?

No sealer needed with the extension I used. As I mentioned, I softened the cap slightly to allow the extension to slide in easier. Once the cap cooled, it tightened up around the extension, providing a great seal. I expected that a slight weeping would occur, but it stayed completely dry. I think the fail-safe thing to do would be to delete the cap and just fill the neck of the jug with a sealant that can withstand exposure to diesel. Doing that, you could use any brand or size of extension, put it in the jug and add the sealant. The reason I listed the brand and p/n of the extension that I used was because it fit the cap perfectly with a tight seal.

I wanted to mention also that I have a 4x4. Each configuration of truck would have slightly different clearances around the filter housing, fuel tank, driveline angle, etc. The parts I used fit my truck perfectly. A two-wheel drive would sit lower and the driveline may be closer to the filter housing. I haven't tried it on any other trucks, so I don't know if the jug may be too big (diameter) to fit in the space. At least everyone can see the basic design and make any changes that would fit their configuration better.

Also, I don't have a lift, and the 5" extension worked perfectly. If the truck was on a lift, you could use a longer extension. Laying on my back, the 5" extension was the best length for comfort.

 

[diesel_driver_3500]

One other thought on the parts list. So many of us have welders and other shop tools, you could use some thin metal flashing material, form it into a funnel shape, slip the extension into the neck and weld it together. That would allow you to make the diameter of the container as small as possible. Welding would certainly provide a no-leak connection.

Everyone should post pictures of their creations. It would be fun to see what everyone comes up with.

 

[Great White North Eh]

Ya haven’t seen my farmer welds… my drive shaft would still be shiny I am afraid.

 

[ETX Ram]

Last time I changed the rear fuel filter, I merely slipped a one gallon ziplok bag over it from the bottom up after loosening it up a bit. Unthreaded the filter, zipped the back shut and disposed.

 

[Jmar]

I made this catch container up yesterday and changed my filters for the first time and what a help. no mess at all . Thank you for posting this my OCD was at an all time low doing it this way.

 

[tyler2you]

I made this catch container up yesterday and changed my filters for the first time and what a help. no mess at all . Thank you for posting this my OCD was at an all time low doing it this way.

Me too. Great little trick for avoiding the mess. Now if there were a way to make the front easier/cleaner.

 

[diesel_driver_3500]

I have always disliked changing the front filters. Even my 2004 gave me fits. Seems the engineers always have to route a wire harness or something close to the filter housing tops, just to make things difficult. My 2021, because of how much taller it is, is every bit as challenging.

 

[Jmar]

I have always disliked changing the front filters. Even my 2004 gave me fits. Seems the engineers always have to route a wire harness or something close to the filter housing tops, just to make things difficult. My 2021, because of how much taller it is, is every bit as challenging.

I went to lowes and bought some clear hose that fits inside that useless little stubby hose and cut it to length to drain in my oil drain pan. Then put a few rags underneath the canister and had a small plastic bag to drop the filter in. Worked like a charm no mess whatsoever.

 

[Brutal_HO]

I have always disliked changing the front filters. Even my 2004 gave me fits. Seems the engineers always have to route a wire harness or something close to the filter housing tops, just to make things difficult. My 2021, because of how much taller it is, is every bit as challenging.

I had to remove the (Aisin) disptick tube mount bolt and move the tube a bit to get a decent path for my front filter. Maybe not mandatory but sure made it easier to get in and out.

As for the drain, just have to get a tube extension setup.

 

[flan]

I have always disliked changing the front filters. Even my 2004 gave me fits. Seems the engineers always have to route a wire harness or something close to the filter housing tops, just to make things difficult. My 2021, because of how much taller it is, is every bit as challenging.

A couple tips I use; That big block of wires on the firewall slides off of its mounting clip pretty easily, affording more clearance. Also a long extension and a universal joint move the ratchet up and out of the engine bay making it easier to operate.