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CAT Scale results with 3500 CTD and 9,000lb trailer - Look OK? Anything you would tweak?

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I made a trip to the CAT scales with our Ram 3500 and 9,000lb travel trailer today. The graphic below shows the results. (Did I do the calculated rows correctly?)

Do the numbers look OK? Anything you would tweak? The WDH is an Equalizer 16K.

Would you run without a WDH with these numbers?

Thank you.

CAT Scale for Post.jpg
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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You are perfectly fine with or without the WDH you are barely gaining anything with the WDH are you sure its setup properly? I would run with out it
 

damo9966

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I suggest trying to tighten up on the spring bars. Your weight transfer is only 160 lbs from the rear axle distributed 120 to the front and 60 to the trailer.

It's likely that the air suspension is compensating for some sag and as a result of running level, the spring bars lose some of their pressure that would normally occur without the air suspension. I target a spring bar tension that restores the unloaded truck front axle weight or slightly more. As it is, you've lost 8% of the downward force on your front tires, negatively affecting steering and braking, just when you need it most.
 

AH64ID

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You are fine with or without the WDH, but will likely have a better experience towing with it.

Tighten it up another notch and see what it does.

50%+ weight return to the front axle is normally what’s recommended on a HD truck.

The auto-level won’t negatively effect the WDH if it’s setup properly.
 

oledirteh

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Question, ive never weighed on any of these scales. how does that work? I often fill up at truck stops due to how long my setup is and they have scales and always wanted to see where i sit in total weight. i know the trailer alone is fairly stout (9800 empty, 860 lbs of water, 180lbs of fuel, 2000lb utv ect is at least 13000lbs) plus the truck i imagine im pushing 20k minus what ever else is in the truck and trailer.

do i just pull up, and i get a print out? sorry just never did it.
 

JustMeAndMy3500

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Plenty of YouTube vids on this too.
 

oledirteh

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Plenty of YouTube vids on this too.

nailed it. thanks! im headed north in early may with everything, ill hit the scales then! thanks man.
 

AH64ID

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nailed it. thanks! im headed north in early may with everything, ill hit the scales then! thanks man.

I find it easier, and cheaper, to just use a closed weigh station. The scales are normally left on and there is usually no line, so you can take your time and get all the various configurations weighed.
 

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You are perfectly fine with or without the WDH you are barely gaining anything with the WDH are you sure its setup properly? I would run with out it

I suggest trying to tighten up on the spring bars. Your weight transfer is only 160 lbs from the rear axle distributed 120 to the front and 60 to the trailer.

It's likely that the air suspension is compensating for some sag and as a result of running level, the spring bars lose some of their pressure that would normally occur without the air suspension. I target a spring bar tension that restores the unloaded truck front axle weight or slightly more. As it is, you've lost 8% of the downward force on your front tires, negatively affecting steering and braking, just when you need it most.

You are fine with or without the WDH, but will likely have a better experience towing with it.

Tighten it up another notch and see what it does.

50%+ weight return to the front axle is normally what’s recommended on a HD truck.

The auto-level won’t negatively effect the WDH if it’s setup properly.
Thank you for taking a look and for your insight!
 

daemonic3

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I made a trip to the CAT scales with our Ram 3500 and 9,000lb travel trailer today. The graphic below shows the results. (Did I do the calculated rows correctly?)

Do the numbers look OK? Anything you would tweak? The WDH is an Equalizer 16K.

Would you run without a WDH with these numbers?

Thank you.

View attachment 71401
I notice you didn't specify if you have the rear air suspension or not, but I'm curious if you do? We have very similar trucks (mine arrives in 2 weeks) and trailer weights. The process of hitching up and setting the alt ride height will be interesting.

While we don't really *need* a WDH I'm going to use mine anyway to help with sway (I still have the shortest wheelbase) and keep my steering/braking planted. You've already got a hitch so might at well use it too!

Without the benefit of weighing, we're supposed to set the WDH so the front fender height is half the distance between stock and pre springbar tension. Yours looks like it needs more tension based on weights. The height displacement on these 3500's will probably be small and hard to measure so weight may be our better option anyway!

I have a weigh-safe hitch, which is basically an equalizer with a built in scale and app. So thankfully I'll be able to adjust it initially as it may be a while before I can CAT it (my closest one is a bit far).
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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I notice you didn't specify if you have the rear air suspension or not, but I'm curious if you do? We have very similar trucks (mine arrives in 2 weeks) and trailer weights. The process of hitching up and setting the alt ride height will be interesting.

While we don't really *need* a WDH I'm going to use mine anyway to help with sway (I still have the shortest wheelbase) and keep my steering/braking planted. You've already got a hitch so might at well use it too!

Without the benefit of weighing, we're supposed to set the WDH so the front fender height is half the distance between stock and pre springbar tension. Yours looks like it needs more tension based on weights. The height displacement on these 3500's will probably be small and hard to measure so weight may be our better option anyway!

I have a weigh-safe hitch, which is basically an equalizer with a built in scale and app. So thankfully I'll be able to adjust it initially as it may be a while before I can CAT it (my closest one is a bit far).
WDH does not help with sway properly loading a trailer does. If you are using a WDH for sway elimination you have bigger issues.
 

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I notice you didn't specify if you have the rear air suspension or not, but I'm curious if you do? We have very similar trucks (mine arrives in 2 weeks) and trailer weights. The process of hitching up and setting the alt ride height will be interesting.

While we don't really *need* a WDH I'm going to use mine anyway to help with sway (I still have the shortest wheelbase) and keep my steering/braking planted. You've already got a hitch so might at well use it too!

Without the benefit of weighing, we're supposed to set the WDH so the front fender height is half the distance between stock and pre springbar tension. Yours looks like it needs more tension based on weights. The height displacement on these 3500's will probably be small and hard to measure so weight may be our better option anyway!

I have a weigh-safe hitch, which is basically an equalizer with a built in scale and app. So thankfully I'll be able to adjust it initially as it may be a while before I can CAT it (my closest one is a bit far).
I do have rear air suspension. The travel trailer dealer installed the Equalizer WDH. I put the truck in Alternate Trailer Height Mode before they did the installation. (I think I had seen AH64ID suggest this in another thread.) I didn't do any of the fender height measurements before and after so I don't have that for reference.

I was concerned about hitching and unhitching with the Factory Rear air suspension on our new 3500. I used to have a 2015 2500 with Factory Auto Level Rear Air Suspension, and I had some challenges with that system adjusting when I was hitching and unhitching. With our new 3500 and the new trailer, I have not had any challenges with hitch/unhitch after about 6 hitch/unhitch examples. Knocking on wood and hope that continues to be the case. I think the auto-level is different on the 2500 vs 3500, and maybe that is the reason for no issues with the 3500.
 

daemonic3

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I do have rear air suspension. The travel trailer dealer installed the Equalizer WDH. I put the truck in Alternate Trailer Height Mode before they did the installation. (I think I had seen AH64ID suggest this in another thread.) I didn't do any of the fender height measurements before and after so I don't have that for reference.

I was concerned about hitching and unhitching with the Factory Rear air suspension on our new 3500. I used to have a 2015 2500 with Factory Auto Level Rear Air Suspension, and I had some challenges with that system adjusting when I was hitching and unhitching. With our new 3500 and the new trailer, I have not had any challenges with hitch/unhitch after about 6 hitch/unhitch examples. Knocking on wood and hope that continues to be the case. I think the auto-level is different on the 2500 vs 3500, and maybe that is the reason for no issues with the 3500.
From the few vids I could find, it definitely is different! The 2500 seemingly can drop down even unloaded, while the 3500 you can't go to the alt height without the hitch loaded. I couldn't find a 3500 specific video (JB reviews had the best 2500 video)

I'm also going by the order suggested in here, but since you've had no issues I'd like to know what height unloaded was your ball in relation to the top of the trailer coupler when it was level? I was going to start my ball 1" above, hitch up, put spring bars and adjust to recommended tension, then flip on alt ride height and let it drop and level itself. I hope that gives the best ride putting a few hundred lbs back to the front, and the rear leafs making it sturdy and air just assisting the levelness.

What relative height did you start your ball?
 

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WDH does not help with sway properly loading a trailer does. If you are using a WDH for sway elimination you have bigger issues.
Oh I agree. I am not delusional about a little friction stopping the leverage a 34ft trailer can put at the hitch pivot point. I said "help" with sway, as it won't hurt it.

Currently I'm at 12% hitch weight ratio, and my previous TT I had a 15% ratio. It towed like a dream. Once I get my 3500 the floodgates will open and the wife can go nuts with her mattress upgrade, and I can put the rest of my stuff in the passthrough I've purposely left at home so I don't overload my F150. If I can get near 15% again it will be a sweet ride (maybe 14% when I have 2 ebikes on the back)
 

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From the few vids I could find, it definitely is different! The 2500 seemingly can drop down even unloaded, while the 3500 you can't go to the alt height without the hitch loaded. I couldn't find a 3500 specific video (JB reviews had the best 2500 video)

I'm also going by the order suggested in here, but since you've had no issues I'd like to know what height unloaded was your ball in relation to the top of the trailer coupler when it was level? I was going to start my ball 1" above, hitch up, put spring bars and adjust to recommended tension, then flip on alt ride height and let it drop and level itself. I hope that gives the best ride putting a few hundred lbs back to the front, and the rear leafs making it sturdy and air just assisting the levelness.

What relative height did you start your ball?
Do these photos answer that question? Glad to try to measure something else if not. Running Falken Wildpeak A/T4W 285/65R20 tires, so sidewall is about .6" higher than stock. And this is running Alternate Trailer Height.

Hitch for upload to HDRAMS 4-18-2024.jpg
 

daemonic3

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Do these photos answer that question? Glad to try to measure something else if not. Running Falken Wildpeak A/T4W 285/65R20 tires, so sidewall is about .6" higher than stock. And this is running Alternate Trailer Height.

View attachment 71924

Thank you for the pictures. I meant without the trailer hooked up yet, how high is your ball relative to the top of your ball coupler on the trailer. Rule of thumb I've used was 1/8" for every 100# of hitch weight, but that may not apply to super beefy 1 tons. For our air suspension, I believe alt height will drop it 1.5" from stock height, so I was going to shoot for 1 to 1.5" above my coupler (wherever the closest hole puts me).
 

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