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Brakes

oledirteh

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Updating the rig for the 2024 towing season and not that it needs it (Prob does though) my truck which is a 2021 2500 6.7 has 88k on it with the original brakes. What pads are you guys running? i do alot of towing and feel with everything im doing i might as well do the brakes while im in this thing. I also tow fairly heavy (10k toyhauler, 1800lb sxs, 600lb atv, water, fuel coolers and so forth)
 

Riccochet

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I'm a big fan of the Powerstop Z36 kits. Much better braking, a lot less brake dust. Had them on my past two trucks, my current Gladiator and Wrangler. Will put them on my 2500 when I get around to it.

 

whitexc

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Although I have had a slew of bad calipers (powdercoated/reman) with the Powerstop kit on my car I do like how they perform and have held up. I can only imagine just about anything is better than what comes on these trucks…long travel pedal and all.


Sent from me
 

AH64ID

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can i just do the pads, or do i need to get the slotted rotors too?

Slotted/vented rotors are a hot discussion topic. They do have an application that warrants them, but these trucks aren’t them. Slotted/vented rotors preform better when hot, but with proper brake use they don’t get that how even when towing. You’ll get better braking on cold/cool rotors with solid rotors.

My 0.02 is to stick to solid rotors for towing and use Powerstop’s Z36 pads.

I’d be surprised if your OEM rotors are worn out at 80K miles.
 

Riccochet

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Slotted/vented rotors are a hot discussion topic. They do have an application that warrants them, but these trucks aren’t them. Slotted/vented rotors preform better when hot, but with proper brake use they don’t get that how even when towing. You’ll get better braking on cold/cool rotors with solid rotors.

My 0.02 is to stick to solid rotors for towing and use Powerstop’s Z36 pads.

I’d be surprised if your OEM rotors are worn out at 80K miles.

I believe you are thinking of carbon ceramic rotors. Those need to be hot to perform. Drilled/Slotted rotors reduce fade under hard braking by venting gases that build up between the pad and rotor surface. They also cool down faster.

Either way, powerstop makes solid rotors if that's your bag. I have their solid rotors on my Wrangler and the drilled/slotted on the Gladiator. Had drilled/slotted on my last two Ram's.
 

AH64ID

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I believe you are thinking of carbon ceramic rotors. Those need to be hot to perform. Drilled/Slotted rotors reduce fade under hard braking by venting gases that build up between the pad and rotor surface. They also cool down faster.

No, I was referring to the conditions where slotted/vented out preform solid. It’s not a blanket statement that slotted/vented always out preform solid, it depends on how they are being used. Personally the times where slotted/vented would out preform solid is not often, which is why I’d opt to stay with solid rotors on my truck.

Either way, powerstop makes solid rotors if that's your bag. I have their solid rotors on my Wrangler and the drilled/slotted on the Gladiator. Had drilled/slotted on my last two Ram's.

All their products look well made.
 

MarkCO1

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Slotted/vented rotors are a hot discussion topic. They do have an application that warrants them, but these trucks aren’t them. Slotted/vented rotors preform better when hot, but with proper brake use they don’t get that how even when towing. You’ll get better braking on cold/cool rotors with solid rotors.

100% agree.

Drilled and slotted rotors are, for a HD truck, pure ego and emotion. 99% of the folks will never drive an HD Ram to the point where they will give you any benefit. They do wear faster and are more prone to rippling of the surface. On my race-cars, I needed them. Even on the GTO, I kept solid rotors. Tested them against a buddy with a $2000 brake set up, drilled and slotted and we stopped within a foot of each other from 100 mph over 6 times, hot and cold.

The brake pads on my 1/2 ton Silverado, I got 140K out of them before I replaced them. The GTO had 80K on the original pads, and I drove it hard. It's as much knowing how to drive and brake as anything else. If you are braking from over 50 mph, press, release, press, release, press to stop, rule of 3s. Dang, they even used to teach that in Driver's Ed. Frankly, when the brake pads need to be replaced on my 2500, I'll check the rotors and if possible resurface them and then put premium lifetime pads on from a local parts store. That has served me well for the last 20+ years.

The bigger issue for most will be the brake fluid. Unfortunately, DOT3 is recommended for my HD 2500, and I have not researched the compatibility with DOT 5.1. Regardless, you SHOULD change your brake fluid at 5 years maximum. If you tow and or live in a climate with 4 seasons, 2 to 3 years. Water absorption is a thing. Almost every HD passenger Truck accident I have worked on professionally where brakes were an issue the water content in the brake fluid was over 3%. What I do is change the pads then take it to the local shop and watch them flush and fill the brake fluid. It's worth the $100 with the anti-lock systems to make sure it all gets replaced.
 

scrmblr2

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Slotted would be an acceptable upgrade over solid. Drilled are unnecessary. My experience is slotted will wear pads faster while potentially giving you some of the benefit of cooling and gas expansion area under heavy braking.

Upgraded Pads, proper thickness of rotors (solid and more than minimum thickness as specified by manufacturer) and good condition (Les than 2 year old) brake fluid is the best upgrade.

Only other potential upgrade would be braided lines….although I found it difficult to tell the difference from good condition rubber factory lines. Does anyone make a kit for brake line upgrade? I haven’t looked and since I just rolled 6700, inhave. Ways to go before getting into brakes on my 3500.
 

oledirteh

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im approching 89k on my ram, about 18k of that is towing between a 28ft enclosed, 39 ft toyhauler and a 20foot car trailer. everything has brakes on it and my truck is still on oem.

i was looking at the powerstop pads, ill prob go that route unless i need rotors too then ill just get the Z36 kit. even with the 13k toyhauler behind me ive never had what i felt any concerns stopping.
 

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