Best configuration for towing - First time poster

[sdtko]

Sorry if this is a duplicate thread, but what is the best setup for towing 15-17k lbs with a 2500? Wheel base, wheel size, engine, packages etc.

Thanks for any advice or links.

 

[jebruns]

I'm going to assume you want to stay legal, so a 2500 with that load is going to be tough, especially if you have family riding with you in the truck while pulling. It would have to be a hemi motor. A 2500 Cummins would pull that load fine, but you'd be over the 10K limit almost for sure. The cummins takes away something like 800lbs of your GVWR. If you want the Cummins, I'd suggest looking at a 3500.

 

[texas.yankee]

Sorry if this is a duplicate thread, but what is the best setup for towing 15-17k lbs with a 2500? Wheel base, wheel size, engine, packages etc.

Thanks for any advice or links.

As already mentioned, a 2500 is going to be too light of a truck (on paper) to pull that weight. You're in at least 3500 territory, and depending on what type of trailer you're talking about, might even be in DRW territory.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[CdnHO]

With a fiver that size, you should be looking at a 3500 with a Cummins. You are looking at a pin weight up to 4000 pounds. Even a gas 2500 won't have enough payload capacity.

 

[jsalbre]

I agree with everything said above, but OP didn’t say it was a 5er, or even an RV at all.

Either way though, you’re probably still best with a 3500 Cummins. That’s a load that’s near or over the max for all Hemi trucks, depending on trim. As mentioned the Cummins eats up too much payload on a 2500 for towing heavy.

 

[CaptainMike]

The best setup would be at least a 3500 DRW with Cummins and Aisin. Here in The People's Republic of California you'd also have to get a special drivers license that includes a driving test for 5th wheels over 15k lbs.

 

[AH64ID]

Sorry if this is a duplicate thread, but what is the best setup for towing 15-17k lbs with a 2500? Wheel base, wheel size, engine, packages etc.

Thanks for any advice or links.

More information is needed.

What kind of trailer? How much pin/tongue weight?

Any other appreciable payload to consider?

Once in a while towing? Or daily in the mountains?

Bottom line is that very few 2500’s have the tow rating for that much weight, and that’s in the “perfect” J2807 world with low pin/tongue weights.

 

[darrellr]

I would not be comfortable with that amount of weight on a stock 2500 due to the coil springs on the rear end. IMO, they are really too soft for heavy loads. That being said, it really depends on the trailer geometry. If the trailer is transferring a lot of weight vertically onto the truck, you will have more problems than if it was transferring less weight. For instance, a flatbed with a heavy tractor on the front of the trailer, in front of the axles, will transfer more weight onto the truck vertically than if the tractor was further back on the trailer (ideally over the trailer axles). If the weight is too far back on the trailer and the tongue/pin/gooseneck is too light, you will likely have terrible stability problems. It is a literal balance.

 

[jdklug3]

If the price has an effect on your decision, I would probably go with the base trim level. The Tradesman has more than enough features to keep you grounded and the max towing capacity is 15,040 lbs. The Laramie is the only other model that can go over 15,000 lbs, but as others have said, your best bet is going the 3500 route. I actually found a really helpful guide that breaks down all the features for each trim. I would recommend checking it out.

 

[jsalbre]

If the price has an effect on your decision, I would probably go with the base trim level. The Tradesman has more than enough features to keep you grounded and the max towing capacity is 15,040 lbs. The Laramie is the only other model that can go over 15,000 lbs, but as others have said, your best bet is going the 3500 route. I actually found a really helpful guide that breaks down all the features for each trim. I would recommend checking it out.

I agree that for towing that heavy you’re probably best off with a 3500, but your comment about nothing else going over 15k pounds are inaccurate. My Rebel has a tow rating of 16,963. My 2020 Limited was 16,870.

Edit to add: Both are 2500 gasser 4x4s.

 

[Brutal_HO]

I almost want to treat this thread as a troll and delete it.

OP made one and done and hasn't been seen since...

 

[Redfour5]

Sorry if this is a duplicate thread, but what is the best setup for towing 15-17k lbs with a 2500? Wheel base, wheel size, engine, packages etc.

Thanks for any advice or links.

Get a 3500 Diesel... My 6.4 Hemi is pretty average with 3K payload and 15K max tow. I'd NEVER pull what you are talking about with the 6.4 unless it was totally flat and a hundred miles or less travel... I pull 7K TT and about 900 to 1000 lb tongue weight. I feel like I'm in the sweet spot with the gas 2500. Too much for a 1500 (although technically within specs/right at payload).

 

[Firebird]

You are solidly in dually territory

 

[Grey65]

If the price has an effect on your decision, I would probably go with the base trim level. The Tradesman has more than enough features to keep you grounded and the max towing capacity is 15,040 lbs. The Laramie is the only other model that can go over 15,000 lbs, but as others have said, your best bet is going the 3500 route. I actually found a really helpful guide that breaks down all the features for each trim. I would recommend checking it out.

19,518lbs or am I missing something?

 

[Redfour5]

19,518lbs or am I missing something?

View attachment 60289

And instantly by getting the Cummins you lose right around 800 to 1000 lbs payload...depending upon trim level and bells and whistles you have on it, while picking up four or five thousand lbs of max tow capability... Not a good trade off IF you got something heavy behind you...

 

[Grey65]

And instantly by getting the Cummins you lose right around 800 to 1000 lbs payload...depending upon trim level and bells and whistles you have on it, while picking up four or five thousand lbs of max tow capability... Not a good trade off IF you got something heavy behind you...

Payload doesn’t really come into play with a TT.
SRW 3500 has exact same brakes front and rear as a 2500, so the HEAVY behind you pushes you exactly the same.

 

[Redfour5]

Payload doesn’t really come into play with a TT.
SRW 3500 has exact same brakes front and rear as a 2500, so the HEAVY behind you pushes you exactly the same.

I agree on TT and payload... "SRW 3500 has exact same brakes front and rear as a 2500" I didn't realize this...as I already think of my 2500 being a bit anemic in the brake category or seemingly by how my foot interacts with the process.

 

[AH64ID]

Payload doesn’t really come into play with a TT.
SRW 3500 has exact same brakes front and rear as a 2500, so the HEAVY behind you pushes you exactly the same.

It fully depends on the TT and what’s in the truck. There are TT’s with 1400+lbs of tongue weight and it then doesn’t take much to get the axle weights up. I’ve had no issues loading up my trucks to max axle, or higher, with a TT.

 

[jsalbre]

Payload definitely matters, depending on what else you plan to carry. My 30’ Airstream had a tongue weight of 1250 pounds.

 

[Redfour5]

Payload definitely matters, depending on what else you plan to carry. My 30’ Airstream had a tongue weight of 1250 pounds.

Then you are likely in the right forum. MOST half tons have at best a 1500 lb or so payload. Both my Ram 1500's were in the 1200 to 1300 lb range. That was fine with my pop up and then 20 foot travel trailer, but then I got the 28 footer with slide. I am running around 1000 lbs tongue weight now. That seems OK right? I'm good to go? Nope, pretty much to stay within range of my payload I essentially could not use my truck bed as the dogs, passenger and other stuff pretty much put me right at my payload or a bit over... So, technically I'm good to go and actually, the 1500's did tow it OK 98% of the time. But, its that 2% that then requires you to function at a much higher level of awareness that when you have a 2500 where it is ALWAYS in charge, planted and well set up.

I see lots of people who do NOT understand payload either through misinformation, ignorance or the salesman who tole them they could tow the empire state building. Before around 2015, the truck manufacturers pretty much just made it up with the marketing pukes not the engineers making up the numbers... They pretty much said you could haul a semi-trailer with any half ton to slightly exaggerate. But then all the manufacturers agreed to a standard and that is from the Society of Automotive Engineers "

Performance Requirements for Determining Tow-Vehicle Gross Combination Weight Rating and Trailer Weight Rating J2807​

And that is what your payload numbers now days are based upon. This Motortrend article from 2015 discusses it when it first took effect. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1502-sae-j2807-tow-tests-the-standard/

These are the key points with the standard being tweaked multiple times since 2015.

• Climbing: Trucks drive 11.4 miles, rising 3,000 feet with the air conditioner on. Dually trucks must maintain a speed of at least 35 mph, and standard pickups cannot go below 40 mph.
• Acceleration: How well a truck can accelerate plays into how well it can pass while towing. Four-wheel vehicles have three marks to hit — 30 mph in 12 seconds, 60 mph in 30 sec and go from 40 mph to 60 mph in 18 sec.
• Launching: Launching refers to how quickly a truck can move a load from a complete stop. While moving up a 12% grade, the test vehicle must climb 16 feet forward and backward five times in five minutes or less.

It assumes and deducts from the GVWR and you don't see this when you look at your payload numbers from like a VIN check on the Ram tow rating site. These bullet points are already figured into the number.

• For light-duty full-size pickups (GVWR < 8,500 lbs.), SAE J2807 assumes that the tow vehicle includes any options with higher than 33 percent penetration;
• It assumes there is both a driver and passenger in the vehicle, each weighing 150 pounds;
• It assumes that tow vehicles also include up to 70 pounds of aftermarket hitch equipment (where applicable); and
• For conventional trailer towing, SAE J2807 assumes that 10 percent of the trailer weight is on the tongue.
• It assumes that all fluids are full including a full gas tank

So, IF you have let's say a 1200 lb payload, it is assumed you have a full gas tank, and other fluids, two 150 lb people in the truck, nothing in the bed, and a 70 lb hitch. From that point forward, you are eating into your payload numbers... So, I'm ready to go with a full tank of gas. I weigh 200 lbs and my wife weighs 130. That means we have 30 lbs off of our payload and are now down to 1170 lbs. We have big dogs that weigh 200 lbs in the back of the cab while towing and so now we are down to 970 lbs of payload. I have a fifty lb set of tools in the bed at 50 lbs and so now am down to 920 lbs of payload. My propane tanks on the trailer are full and two new batteries and my tongue weight is 900 lbs on my 28 foot travel trailer. So, now I'm down to essentially 20 lbs of "available" payload left. And, my WDH hitch weighs more than 70 lbs, I promise. Add the dogs food and toys and water, coke, chips, maps keys etc. So essentially, with practically nothing in the bed, I'm at my payload and a bit over on a quarter ton pick up with a VIN based search showing my payload is 1200 lbs.

See how fast you can eat up payload? So, you got those 4.10 gears in the rear diff right? Well, that don't help payload. It might add 2K to your max tow rating, improve your drive a bit in the mountains make the truck work a bit less overall, but your payload is still the same...

Now you say, well, that's OK, I'm essentially within specs as my max towing capability is 13,000 lbs. I'm good to go and hey I'll empty this gas tank fast and get myself back under payload within 50 miles for sure... Technically you are correct. But also, you are pretty much at max as you take off. This is how I figured my towing with my 1500 trucks. Now, as I take off, I ALWAYS know that trailer is back there. It "tugs" on the back of the truck. Nothing big mind you, just lets you know its there ALWAYS. I look back while driving down the highway and the ass end of the travel trailer, well you can see the corners as the wind blows or you change lanes...if you know what I mean but really no problem. I'm within specs now 30 miles down the road and 3.4 gallons of gas and its weight gone. Now, living where I do, and the interstate I usually drive down I have this one point coming down Boulder pass (A small pass south of Helena MT) heading south but I KNOW there is this one point as you go down into the valley where consistently you get this big gust of wind and you can pretty much count on it. Well, 3 to 4 times out of 5 it hits as I head down into the valley. I know its coming so I wait and it hits, the trailer like a sail takes the gust and jerks back and forth for a second or two then I'm fine. But I also know that on this 1800 mile trip I will also have at least a few more similar situations that I will NOT know are coming. So, for 98% of the time, I'm fine but for that two percent of the time, the trailer for just a second or so is in control and so, I have to drive with that always at the back of my mind. Every second I take my eyes off the road, yell at the dogs, talk to my wife, if I get hit with that gust of wind or huge truck gust, I have to be ready to maintain control or I'll be a tic toc video of how NOT to tow a trailer. And so, you can never relax and are always at a certain even though minor it goes on for 6 to 8 hours level of "control."

You know when you are in your 30's, you can do this and hardly be phased but you may also be putting those kiddies in the back of the cab at a certain level of "risk" and that needs to be considered. Reach sixty years or so and it isn't quite the same... And so, I traded in my new 1500 and got my 6.4 Hemi, Laramie Ram 2500. NOW, I got 3,000 lbs of payload instead of 1200 or 1300 lbs in the 1500. If I had a Cummins? Well, I would only have around 2,000 lbs of payload as I would lose around 1K lbs on cast iron in that engine block. Sure enough, but now I'm also worried about emissions and how low is the DEF... and hundreds and hundreds of bucks on an oil change...

Now, with 3K lbs payload, I can put the generator in the bed along with some other stuff and am still a thousand lbs under payload capacity. I got more power and 3.73 gears with my 28 foot 7,000 lbs travel trailer and a heavier duty, well pretty much everything including payload. I got more steel between me and the world sitting up high... I put Good Year Endurance tires with stiffer sidewalls replacing my china bombs and a Road Armor suspension on the trailer and now the whole entire set up is "PLANTED" in a way the 1500 NEVER was. That gust of wind? The set up just shrugs. I never see the back corners of my trailer and sway doesn't even take that first wag setting you up to over correct and cascading to a crash. I can relax at a level I NEVER could in a 1500.

AND, that is why I love my 2500 gasser.