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BATT and ACC power source

phatboy64

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So I need to connect a dash cam that requires both ACC and BATT power sources. When I look in the fuse box under the hood I see that F90 (BATT) and F91 (ACC)is a three socket fuse with a fuse in the F90 socket. This leaves one socket open that has BATT power consistently. Can I leverage fuse taps and this one combined socket to give me a BATT and a ACC source? If so how would I do it, I don’t see any three post fuse sockets that have two separate circuits. If not any suggestions on which fuse locations to use?
Also, I am looking for an easy way to get the two wires through the firewall. I was thinking about poking a small hole in the grommet for the hood release cable and then sealing it with a small amount of weather proof caulking. Any thoughts on that?
 

Brutal_HO

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So I need to connect a dash cam that requires both ACC and BATT power sources. When I look in the fuse box under the hood I see that F90 (BATT) and F91 (ACC)is a three socket fuse with a fuse in the F90 socket. This leaves one socket open that has BATT power consistently. Can I leverage fuse taps and this one combined socket to give me a BATT and a ACC source? If so how would I do it, I don’t see any three post fuse sockets that have two separate circuits. If not any suggestions on which fuse locations to use?
Also, I am looking for an easy way to get the two wires through the firewall. I was thinking about poking a small hole in the grommet for the hood release cable and then sealing it with a small amount of weather proof caulking. Any thoughts on that?

That's a single target (the dash top 12V accessory) powered from either BATT OR IGN

F90/F91/ATR (Micro2)20 Amp YellowIGN or BATT Customer Selectable – If Equipped (HD Only) Power Outlet (Rear Seats) Customer Selectable (DS 1500 Only)

Just make sure you're not somehow backfeeding one to the other.

That said, do you not have any of the other in cab power sources shown in the sticky?

 

phatboy64

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That's a single target (the dash top 12V accessory) powered from either BATT OR IGN

F90/F91/ATR (Micro2)20 Amp YellowIGN or BATT Customer Selectable – If Equipped (HD Only) Power Outlet (Rear Seats) Customer Selectable (DS 1500 Only)

Just make sure you're not somehow backfeeding one to the other.

That said, do you not have any of the other in cab power sources shown in the sticky?

Thanks for the sticky! I believe you mentioned in that sticky that there is a bundle between the fuse box and the battery that is used for snow plow wiring. I haven’t checked to see if I have that but assuming I do which ones are always hot vs ACC?

IMG_0947.png
 

AH64ID

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Do you have aux switches?
 

phatboy64

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Do you have aux switches?
Unfortunately no I don’t.

if I can easily find spots under the dash that I could tap into without splicing (not a fan) I would go that route. If I have to go under the hood I think I could do this

Use a fuse tap on F90/F91 setup for ACC.
Use the post on the + battery terminal for BATT with an inline fuse.
There are other switched fuses but I am not sure if adding an additional load would affect them..


Out of curiosity there is a smaller fuse box between the battery and the firewall on the drivers side. When I open it it looks like there are 2 relays and about four or five open spots for relays that have constant power. What is that?
 

AH64ID

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Out of curiosity there is a smaller fuse box between the battery and the firewall on the drivers side. When I open it it looks like there are 2 relays and about four or five open spots for relays that have constant power. What is that?

Aux PDC. It’s where the aux switches would get their power and where the supplemental cabin heater gets its power.
 

Brutal_HO

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Thanks for the sticky! I believe you mentioned in that sticky that there is a bundle between the fuse box and the battery that is used for snow plow wiring. I haven’t checked to see if I have that but assuming I do which ones are always hot vs ACC?

View attachment 69533

I don't believe any are hot unless enabled L312 which then kills the truck lights and energizes the plow relay output.

I could be wrong, but that's the way I understand it.

If you don't have the overhand console wring (12V BATT for tailgate release button) and 12V IGN for any dimmable rearview mirror, there's 12V BATT in the left A-pillar and 12V ACC in the right A-pillar.
 

phatboy64

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I don't believe any are hot unless enabled L312 which then kills the truck lights and energizes the plow relay output.

I could be wrong, but that's the way I understand it.

If you don't have the overhand console wring (12V BATT for tailgate release button) and 12V IGN for any dimmable rearview mirror, there's 12V BATT in the left A-pillar and 12V ACC in the right A-pillar.
Thanks. From a visual standpoint, how do I identify them?
 

phatboy64

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Info is in the sticky I linked earlier.

driver side red 12V
pax side pink/yel
Thanks...Sorry, I am going cross eyed researching this.. I think I read some where that I should disconnect my batteries when messing around with the a-pillars to avoid the air bags deploying? I would never have thought to do that.. Is that someone just being way over cautious
 

wrvond

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Is there a particular reason you don't want to tap into the wires in the overhead console?

I followed this video (for the most part) and it worked fine for my 2023 Laredo and Black Vue:

 
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phatboy64

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Is there a particular reason you don't want to tap into the wires in the overhead console?

I followed this video (for the most part) and it worked fine for my 2023 Laredo and Black Vue:

Well Sh*t, winner, winner! This is exactly what I am going to do. I have a 2023 limited so I assume the wiring is the same...

Thanks!
 

wrvond

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Well Sh*t, winner, winner! This is exactly what I am going to do. I have a 2023 limited so I assume the wiring is the same...

Thanks!

!. I believe there are two clips up near the 8mm bolts inside the sunglass holder that release using finger pressure.
2. Before closing it back up, ensure the camera powers up. When I tested mine it didn't come on - I had the two wires connected wrong. I swapped them and everything works great.

Good luck!
 

Brutal_HO

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Well Sh*t, winner, winner! This is exactly what I am going to do. I have a 2023 limited so I assume the wiring is the same...

Thanks!
That's a single target (the dash top 12V accessory) powered from either BATT OR IGN

F90/F91/ATR (Micro2)20 Amp YellowIGN or BATT Customer Selectable – If Equipped (HD Only) Power Outlet (Rear Seats) Customer Selectable (DS 1500 Only)

Just make sure you're not somehow backfeeding one to the other.

That said, do you not have any of the other in cab power sources shown in the sticky?


I don't believe any are hot unless enabled L312 which then kills the truck lights and energizes the plow relay output.

I could be wrong, but that's the way I understand it.

If you don't have the overhand console wring (12V BATT for tailgate release button) and 12V IGN for any dimmable rearview mirror, there's 12V BATT in the left A-pillar and 12V ACC in the right A-pillar.

Well, sh*t. Too bad someone didn't make it clearer early on. :rolleyes:
 

phatboy64

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Well, sh*t. Too bad someone didn't make it clearer early on. :rolleyes:
Yeah, I went back a reread everything you posted and I am not sure how I missed it….wait a minute I do know why, too much beer when researching on my end…
 

phatboy64

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Info is in the sticky I linked earlier.

driver side red 12V
pax side pink/yel
I have the overhead console pulled down and found both wires. The red wire in the gray connector is very thin, is that the same red wire on the drivers side pillar? I am hesitant to tap into the one overhead so if the one in the pillar is thicker I will use that one, if not I will just be careful with the one in the overhead.
 

phatboy64

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Got it all installed using connections in the overhead. I used a 20-22 Posi Tap on the red wire and the blue 14-16 Posi Tap on the pink/yellow wire. Super easy, thanks for all the help!
 

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