It looks like you were able to remove the intake plate without completely removing the fuel rail. Did you have to loosen the #5 and #6 fuel lines to swap the plate out?
Yes and no! I removed the #5 fuel line because there is just so little room to get to the #6 unless you get the #5 rail out of there, but just loosened the #6 and rotated it out of the way. The fuel rail on my MY23 had the fuel return line and associated banjo bolt at the rear, which posed for a couple of issues that were ultimately not a big deal to resolve. Fortunately, when you have all the lines disconnected, you can move the fuel rail in and out of the way of those fuel return lines; they are otherwise rigid and do not move.
Because of that, I decided all the more so not to try and remove the rail and just bungee it to the windshield wiper. With the lines disconnected, there is just enough play in the harness connected to the end of the fuel rail to pull it closer and then out of the way of that disconnected banjo bolt. Why they moved those return fuel lines to the rear I don't know, but it sure seemed like that was more of a PITA than the previous fuel rails with the return line up front next to the line going to the fuel pump.
With that, I bungee'd it to the wiper and removed the intake plate. I'm not gonna lie, it was a PITA and more than I bargained for, but that is the price of tuition and once you figure it out, I was able to get it. Now that I know how it works it doesn't seem like as big of a deal, but I don't turn wrenches for a living. Used to work on helicopters in the Marines 23+ years ago and I like to do what I can.
I retuned my fuel line tool because all the lines were pointed to the rear and it just wasn't needed. I would highly recommend a 19" stubby - Harbor Freight had what I needed and HD or Lowe's did not. I had a 19mm crows foot but it was also slightly shorter than my 19mm open-end wrench, and didn't give me quite the leverage I ended up needing on those last two fuel rails. I got the #6 fuel line started with the stubby, and then used the open-end wrench to finish the job. If I had a slightly longer 19mm crows foot that may have been better, but I was finding I just didn't have the right orientation with the crows foot and had to resort to the open end. There is just enough headroom when you are back there to take the 19mm open-end wrench and get enough torque on it to tighten it back up.
I bought a 24mm wrench to help hold the fuel tubes in place while I loosened the lines with the 19mm, but by the time I got to fuel lines #4 and up, I didn't have room to use both. I used a paint pen to mark both where my fuel tube (injector) was and also my fuel line. Of course, I only had 600 miles on my truck at the time so it was all still relatively new, and I'm sure that helped a little, as well.
)