75th PW questions on upgrades

[Crusty old shellback]

SO I have a '21 75th PW on its way. Should be at the dealer today.
I have a few up grades planed for it and have a few questions about them so looking for some sound advice.

A few upgrades are no brainers.
Installing AMP power steps. Gonna try and mount them along with the rock rails. If successful, I'll make a thread of the success. If not, then it will be just the steps. Simple upgrade.
Going to redo the exhaust. Basically a cat back system to get rid of the resonator to make room for my tire upgrade. Will be working with my exhaust shop that I've used forever to get something that sounds good, not loud, and no drone.
Didn't order the factory Tri Fold bed cover as it would cause more delays in production. Ordering a gator tri fold when they are back in stock.
I ordered a Mono tone Delmonico red, no lower black stripe. I'm now thinking of possibly having the black stripe painted on or a wrap. But want to have the power Wagon logo in the black stripe but in the same Delmonico red.
I need to find a place to install a Kenwood VHF radio that I use when doing chase duties for a off road race team. It had a large main mount with a remote head. Just have to get the truck and see how I can make a clean install that looks factory.

So that's the easy stuff.
Going to swap out the good years for a set of BFG KO2's in 35X12.50/17's. I know I will need some type of programmer to recalibrate for the bigger tires and modify the TPMS settings. But I don't think I will be making any other changes. So with that said, here are my questions.

1. Are there other changes that I may want to make that would require a certain programmer?
2. If so, which programmer should I be looking for?
3. Is there a one size fits all programmer I should be looking at?
4. IS there a simple programmer I can get that will do these basic changes?
5. Do any/all of the programmers also read/clear fault codes?

Thanks for any and all inputs.

 

[Wobly]

AlfaOBD or TazerRam is what you want. I have the TazerRam and have recalibrated my tire size and adjusted my tire pressure threshold so I don't have the low tire pressure warning. You will also need the bypass cable to make it work.
You can also clear CEL's.

 

[el_barto]

I have the Tazer for my 2019 as well. I primarily got it so I could recalibrate my tire size and it also allowed me to eliminate the fog drop-out (fog lights stay on with high beams now).

@Wobly I haven’t played with changing the tire pressure threshold, I thought the dealer still needed to do something with that?

 

[AnthonyD1978]

Exhaust doesn't have anything to do with fitting a larger spare tire in the OEM location (other than the heat shield for some). It's your tow hitch and track bar. You will be able to fit a 35" tire back there. Anything bigger and you'll have to find a different solution as myself and others have. Many don't run a proper sized spare.

 

[GeneralClortho]

Just and FYI...exhaust isn't going to help you with the spare tire size as the stock exhaust isn't really hurting you there. It is more the frame rails, track bar and back of the receiver hitch. I spent an hour getting my 35" spare into place yesterday, and it wasn't fun. I beat the heat shield back about as far as it would go and let the tire pressure down to 30psi and it still was a bear. BFG advertises 34.5" diameter, and that does not fit between the sway bar and the back of the receiver hitch without angling the tire, cranking it up some, angle it, crank, tweak, angle, crank, and massaging it into place. I had my son crank a few round while I angled, tweaked and in the end used my feet to bump the tire about every 1/2" up to wedge it in there. It is resting against the back of the receiver hitch, the driver side frame rail and pushing the heat shield back pretty much as far as it will go.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Thanks for the input on the spare tire. I hadn't seen a lot of details, on putting one in there other than a 35 would barley fit. Seeing the big resonator hanging out there, I thought that might be the problem.

As far as the spare goes, did you use the factory spare rim? Or change it out to match the normal rims? I'm thinking to get another factory beadlock rim for the spare. I want to run a full size spare as I will be taking the truck off road a lot, both down in Baja, out in Nevada and King of the Hammers in Calif, where there is usually no cell service, so I have to be prepared.

But I also want to get rid of that big ugly resonator hanging out in the open.

 

[AnthonyD1978]

Just and FYI...exhaust isn't going to help you with the spare tire size as the stock exhaust isn't really hurting you there. It is more the frame rails, track bar and back of the receiver hitch. I spent an hour getting my 35" spare into place yesterday, and it wasn't fun. I beat the heat shield back about as far as it would go and let the tire pressure down to 30psi and it still was a bear. BFG advertises 34.5" diameter, and that does not fit between the sway bar and the back of the receiver hitch without angling the tire, cranking it up some, angle it, crank, tweak, angle, crank, and massaging it into place. I had my son crank a few round while I angled, tweaked and in the end used my feet to bump the tire about every 1/2" up to wedge it in there. It is resting against the back of the receiver hitch, the driver side frame rail and pushing the heat shield back pretty much as far as it will go.

Easier to just pull the heat shield and trim the top mounting portion of the shield instead of banging or bending it into place. That's what I did and my 35" (34.8" advertised) spare fit pretty easily after that. I have a post somewhere on here with pics. You do have to angle it to get it up and down, but it was pretty simple the multiple times I've done it.

Now I run 37 with my spare on a rack.

 

[AnthonyD1978]

Thanks for the input on the spare tire. I hadn't seen a lot of details, on putting one in there other than a 35 would barley fit. Seeing the big resonator hanging out there, I thought that might be the problem.

As far as the spare goes, did you use the factory spare rim? Or change it out to match the normal rims? I'm thinking to get another factory beadlock rim for the spare. I want to run a full size spare as I will be taking the truck off road a lot, both down in Baja, out in Nevada and King of the Hammers in Calif, where there is usually no cell service, so I have to be prepared.

But I also want to get rid of that big ugly resonator hanging out in the open.

I use the factory spare wheel for my 37x12.5 tires just fine. Unless you're airing down to single digits and putting serious lateral G's on the tires you don't need beadlocks. In my opinion and many others with more experience than me. I regularly air down to 15-20psi with no issues without beadlocks.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Anthony,
I've never used bead locks and have never had a tire pop a bead. But with the 75th being equipped with the bead lock rims, figured I might as well use them.

 

[AnthonyD1978]

Anthony,
I've never used bead locks and have never had a tire pop a bead. But with the 75th being equipped with the bead lock rims, figured I might as well use them.

They don't come with the bead lock rings. You'll need to order them separately.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Yea, I know. Been trying to find them to no avail. Seems they have a different bolt pattern that most rings due to the design of the wheel.

 

[Iowa Wagon]

The newer AEV Procal will adjust for tire size (trans shift points), gear ratio, TPMS psi, and clear codes. Very simple to install and use (as long as you follow the instructions).

 

[unxpctd]

I had an MBRP 4" exhaust installed today on my 75A. Really like it so far.....only a few miles though. It brings out the rumble in the V8. I can tell there is a bit of drone but nothing major.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Did it delete the resonator?

 

[GeneralClortho]

I use the factory spare wheel for my 37x12.5 tires just fine. Unless you're airing down to single digits and putting serious lateral G's on the tires you don't need beadlocks. In my opinion and many others with more experience than me. I regularly air down to 15-20psi with no issues without beadlocks.

I will probably do that next time. I had already fought with the tire for a while and would have to bring it back down again. It was 97 degrees in Texas and I was spent, lol.

Thanks for the input on the spare tire. I hadn't seen a lot of details, on putting one in there other than a 35 would barley fit. Seeing the big resonator hanging out there, I thought that might be the problem.

As far as the spare goes, did you use the factory spare rim? Or change it out to match the normal rims? I'm thinking to get another factory beadlock rim for the spare. I want to run a full size spare as I will be taking the truck off road a lot, both down in Baja, out in Nevada and King of the Hammers in Calif, where there is usually no cell service, so I have to be prepared.

But I also want to get rid of that big ugly resonator hanging out in the open.

I have the factory steel, spare wheel but planning on picking up another one so I can rotate through. At 5k miles, I will have one in hand for the tire shop to swap out and rotate them for me. I am assuming with 5k worth of wear on the tire that goes back under, it will be easier to fit. I sure would hate to leave a new, $300 tire under there that never got used.

 

[Shake N Bake]

I am really interested in the possibility of mounting the amp steps to the factory slider / steps. I looked and have been trying to engineer a way myself, I don't really have a need for a full WKO type slider living in the Southeast.

 

[unxpctd]

Did it delete the resonator?

Yes it did. I went with the single side exit but dual tips. I'll post a couple photos tonight.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Stopped by my exhaust shop this morning. Said hes already done one. Biggest issue is his bender wont do 3" pipe, so he has to cut some bent pipe and do a little fab work. Said go with a big magnaflow. Not too loud and no drone. Told him I want a black tip. Probably get it done on Wednesday.

 

[unxpctd]

MBRP T409 Stainless single side exit/dual tips:

Really like it so far. 1 clamp was bad from MBRP but the shop I had install this got a replacement for like $9 at a local auto parts store. $125 install total cost. I was going to try it myself but didn't have the time and am leaving on a trip on Thursday.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

I am really interested in the possibility of mounting the amp steps to the factory slider / steps. I looked and have been trying to engineer a way myself, I don't really have a need for a full WKO type slider living in the Southeast.

Pulled the rock rail in preps to install the amp steps.
From looking at everything, there is no way to mount the 2 together. You would have to cut out a significant part of the slides and then weld in new bracing outside of the amp bracket. That's just to get the 2 main bolts in both pieces.
But that doesent solve the issue of the bolts that go thru the pinch weld on both pieces.
Bolts for the sliders come thru from the inside.
Bolts for the amp come thru the outside.
Here is a couple of pictures of the inside of the slides at the end mounting points used by the amp brackets.
The big hole is the bolt goes thru into the rivnut. On the amp steps, that hole is in the middle of the bracket.