2021 2500 6.4l front end hits bump stops on speed bumps

[MrSteve]

I have noticed that my front end will bottom out over speed bumps at less than 10mph. It’s like the spring rate cannot handle a slow cycle rebounce but is better suited for a faster rate. There also isn’t a lot of room between bump stops and lower control arm. Is this normal? Has anyone else noticed this? Do you think this is an oversight by RAM?

 

[jsalbre]

This is normal. There’s just not a lot of room for up-travel with the stock suspension setup on these things.

 

[Dewey]

Yes that is true. A leveling kit will help this. I did a 1 inch and it help out not bottoming as easily. The front suspension only has about 5 of travel.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

I have a hard time believing you are truly bottoming out even with my plow on the truck i have rarely bottomed out unless it was a significant bump

 

[dieselscout80]

I think I feel mine bottom out just like yours.

I have noticed that my front end will bottom out over speed bumps at less than 10mph. It’s like the spring rate cannot handle a slow cycle rebounce but is better suited for a faster rate. There also isn’t a lot of room between bump stops and lower control arm. Is this normal? Has anyone else noticed this? Do you think this is an oversight by RAM?

My truck has 74k miles on it and the factory shocks and I think I feel mine bottom out just like yours.

I bought some Bilsten 4600 shocks as replacements and hopefully it helps some.

There is also a thread here on replacing the bump stops with Sumo spring bumps that are softer and I think the color was blue.

 

[joshuaeb09]

If you've got the stock non billstein (non off-road package shocks) we found that was a pretty good indicator they were blown depending on the aggressiveness of said speed bump. That said even a stock ORP truck will bottom out on the right speed bumps as there isn't much in the way of travel at all in the stock front end. Even then the bone stock 2500 ORP we have with a ranchhand on the front of it still handles speed bumps or gravel road divots far better than the non ORP truck it replaced when it had the stock shocks. The non ORP truck ended up needing new front shocks on it around 15k and had the same feeling your describing that only got worse as the shocks started going.

I'd say if you have the non billstein stock shocks and they've got some miles on them - Replace them before playing with anything else - 4600s are a safe bet, but there are other options that are better than the stock junk. If you want better performance than that then it's time to look at leveling springs w/ matching shocks, sumo springs, etc.

 

[jsalbre]

My ORP 20 Limited bottomed out on tall speed bumps and my 23 Rebel does the same.

 

[Poolmonkey]

Around town and for decent dirt roads, Sumos would be a worthwhile thing to put on IMO.
I have black with two “bubbles” cut off on my PW, I found that I didn’t like them full length on very bad dirt roads/rocks.
Blue could be the ticket…
They amount to softer and longer than factory bumpstops that rarely engage now…I think leaving only one bubble would work as nice bumpstops, I may have only one someday.
The factory stops are rock hard and awful to use.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

You’re not hitting bump stops on speed bumps at <10mph in any vehicle.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

You’re not hitting bump stops on speed bumps at <10mph in any vehicle.

Unless the springs and shocks are shot lol

 

[AH64ID]

You’re not hitting bump stops on speed bumps at <10mph in any vehicle.

I’ve done it on all of my 3500’s, 05/18/22. It’s easy on the right bumps or potholes. It may or may not be felt in the drivers seat by there are always witness marks below the bump stops.

The speed bumps at the gate for our base are
bad for this. They are so abrupt that the hood flexes and bumps at 10mph on my TJ. The only rig I can take them with at speed is my 03 4Runner with a Bilstien 5100 2.5” front lift and 1” rear eibach springs.

Those speed bumps are one of several places that I really appreciate the sumo springs.

 

[joshuaeb09]

My ORP 20 Limited bottomed out on tall speed bumps and my 23 Rebel does the same.

Thinking about across the trucks we've had it does seem the Hemi's were worse. With that short amount of travel in stock form it has to be the softer Hemi springs if I were to guess.

Those speed bumps are one of several places that I really appreciate the sumo springs.

My sumo bumps have taken a few wallops now that I've had the whole suspension setup on the truck for a while and I'm glad I have em up front. I'd go so far as to say no build should be without them if they spend any amount of time off the pavement or deal with horrible speed bumps.

I'm tempted to play with the blues if I end up swapping to Carli 3.25" Springs so I can run their new e-venture shocks once my Fox 2.0s are needing to be rebuilt/replaced. While I'm almost certain I could run the e-venture shocks on the 2.75" Thuren Springs, I'd rather run them on the springs they're valved for and since I already have Carli R2's in the back it only makes sense to match up the front springs. The only reason I'd be tempted to play with the blues is that Carli specifies a 1" bump drop for their springs/shocks and I'd be tempted to see how the blue on the 1" drop does opposed to the black without it.

 

[joshuaeb09]

Around town and for decent dirt roads, Sumos would be a worthwhile thing to put on IMO.
I have black with two “bubbles” cut off on my PW, I found that I didn’t like them full length on very bad dirt roads/rocks.
Blue could be the ticket…
They amount to softer and longer than factory bumpstops that rarely engage now…I think leaving only one bubble would work as nice bumpstops, I may have only one someday.
The factory stops are rock hard and awful to use.

If you want the blue sumos for the rear, its P/N 511440 x 2. They're from a F150 kit, but I did confirm with super springs that they're the correct blue "spring" to thread onto the 2500/PW mount. I was going to use them on my truck, but I found with the Carli R2 springs and stock control arms I didn't need them and could leave the black ones on it unmolested.

Once I change rear control arms to either the Thuren setup or the Metalcloak arms to match my radius arms, then I might change them to blue when empty if I find them to be more noticable with the torsion bind gone from the control arms. On the last 1500 I built I had to do this once I put Core 4x4 arms on it as the black sumos with softer springs were really noticable under certain conditions. Kept the blacks in the toolbox for towing/hauling stuff and run trimmed blue sumos empty as a nice progressive stop.