2005 3500 Ram 250m overhaul

[Rick3]

Decision time
Anyone done a “complete” primarily power train/suspension on one of these?
I’m old school, had truck a long time. Good shop, tools skills etc. acquired at 69.
Question is it realistic to check engine 5.9, upgrade/overhaul tranny 48RE, bushings, lines, etc. no rust.
$10-15k budget in-house some outsource for engine go over, turbo etc.
Want to use for horses hauler, long distance, 14,000 lb. Trailer gross.
So far been good 8 long distance haul/years but getting old and one tranny rebuild.

 

[AH64ID]

I did a full rebuild on my 05 and it was an absolute beast of a motor compared to stock. It was smoother, quieter, cleaner, and more efficient than the stock motor.

At a minimum I would use QSB 480 pistons (marine double heat treated) for a stronger position that’s also cleaner burning. This will take new injector nozzles (at a minimum) with the 03-04 spray pattern. I used BBi Stage 1’s and custom tuning to keep the power reasonable (less fuel duration than stock). The 04.5-07 pistons were the weakest piston that Cummins ever put in a 5.9.

From there, if you’re having the turbo rebuilt I would have the turbine wheel replaced with the one from the HE351VE. It’s slightly larger, but better all around. Improved spool, cooler EGT’s, and reduced drive pressure. It’s a great towing turbo.

Cam is up to you. For your use stock will work, but so will the towing grind (178/208) from Hamilton Cams. It just depends on what you want to spend.

I would also highly recommended having the rotating assembly balanced. A smoother 5.9 is much less fatiguing on long towing days.

With all of that you’d need to find a good custom tune to make it work how you want it to. I did look my own tuning and it makes a world of difference.

 

[Rick3]

Thanks for the info. Pretty happy with the power, tranny is a worry. Also think suspension bushings very bad or something else. Rear dual tires wear 2x faster than the front, gotta find that problem….

 

[flan]

What tire pressure are you running in the rear?

 

[Rick3]

Tried 55 and mostly 65

 

[flan]

Ok how are they wearing? Pretty evenly across of more towards the center?

 

[AH64ID]

That’s potentially a lot of air for DRW rears, unless you’re loaded all the time.

Presuming you have 235/80R17’s this is what your rear axle can weigh based on different pressures.

65 psi: 9,880 lbs
55 psi: 8,620 lbs
45 psi: 7,480 lbs
35 psi: 6,280 lbs

Don’t hesitate to run lower pressures if your load allows for it. This will improve tire wear, ride, traction, and reduce road hazard susceptibility.

 

[Rick3]

That’s potentially a lot of air for DRW rears, unless you’re loaded all the time.

Presuming you have 235/80R17’s this is what your rear axle can weigh based on different pressures.

65 psi: 9,880 lbs
55 psi: 8,620 lbs
45 psi: 7,480 lbs
35 psi: 6,280 lbs

Don’t hesitate to run lower pressures if your load allows for it. This will improve tire wear, ride, traction, and reduce road hazard susceptibility.

Good advice, 9% of the time no or little load. Wear is pretty even but less on sides.
When loaded bed weight 4-5k long horse trailer when loaded 14,500 lbs.
I’ll lower pressure as new tires on now. Going to put truck in the shop and start with siuspension stuff.
I have my old 93 Ford 150 (pardon the swearing) on the way from Alberta, have not seen it for 28 years. Brother had it Son had it I’m getting it…. 120,000 miles.
Going to use as a driver/shop truck.

 

[AH64ID]

Good advice, 9% of the time no or little load. Wear is pretty even but less on sides.

Sounds like too much air. That could be why you’re burning thru tires.

 

[flan]

Yea I’m not sure what suspension parts would cause tire wear, in the rear at least.

 

[Rick3]

Think the rear hangers/bushings
When body lifted the rubber is collapsed enough to almost see thu. Truck always aligned, front tire wear perfect. Squeak spacers snd some clips in spring stack see gone or worn out too. Is this an indicator of ?