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Done. Other than removing press in barb clamps the final replacement process was a piece of cake Can close the book on this project hoping I'll never have to repeat it.

Got Got it to drop down. Two small tabs on the top side pushed in and it drops out. 90% there.

OK I'm back. Got the new harness (they call it a jumper wire). Need advice on how to remove the tailgate release handle assembly. I removed two 10mm nuts from what I thought was the only mechanical connection of the handle assembly to the tailgate body, but not. I get the assembly to a point...

Its amazing how they or it targeted the plastic harness cover, above and behind the lic plate then actually ate or at least chewed off a 1" gap of wires. Years ago in another location critters went above my RV gas tank and chewed through the fuel feed hose to the generator. Had to drop the tank...

OK here is the summary and status. Got to the inside with a coathanger, jumped a 12 volt drill battery directly to the inside of the gate lock connector, and the gate popped open. I removed the gate, ordered a new wire harness but decided to do a temp fix. with a few tools and working with...

Thanks for that advice. Didn't think of going to the inside to release them. You are right they are very difficult to pry up. I'd rather wait for the top trim removal as a last resort given that process. I may try to jumper the locks with 12 v and see what happens.

Tried the cheap plastic levers on the actuators. Rotated them. Zero affect on the locks. One lever just popped off the press fit collars and is loose in my hand. Can't snap it back in. so I'm going in the wrong direction here. The right latch rotated the same way and again zero result in...

Yep, will try unlatching them when I get home. The camera lead is chewed too. It might be coax and if so, will it be repairable. I see some remnants of foil shielding.

I just viewed the video jetrinka showed. (Thank you). I will see if I can locate the mechanical release tabs. Stay tuned. If mine has these tabs and gets the gate down that is a good thing but not the end game. Just puts me in the red zone before I punt and go to a dealer.

I was successful breaking into the bakflip tonneau using a trim tool wedge, lifting the rear edge on top of the gate enough to fish a bent coat hanger to grab the release cable and Ah HA ! it snapped open. Nothing broken. Not done yet tho. I flipped the lid back. removed the 6-7 torx screws...

Sounds like a choice between the BakFLip tonneau cover at $1100 or tailgate plus labor. I'm getting the truck back from the dealer and will take my saw to the cover. I appreciate the help here. Was hoping the latch solenoids were in the body. Cheers.

Sorry for all the follow ups but thinking about the wires being chewed inside the gate and the back up camera not working I understand the one inner gate harness might be chewed up. But Why wouldn't the key fob open the gate as it bypasses the manual lever wiring through another circuit than the...

also are the gate locking pins and their associated 12V solenoids in the upper part of the bed fenders or are they in the gate itself on each side?

Thanks, I'll try this but since there is an interrupt of wiring inside the tailgate itself I would need to identity the pin or couple of pins in the chassis side of this harness connector to power the gate locks so I can open the gate itself. Would this be the case?

Bad day. A varmit chewed through wires inside the gate above the lic plate. Now I can't lower the gate with the key fob, handle on gate or inside the cockpit. What makes it particularly an issue is I have a triple fold hard-top that can only be flipped from inside so I am locked out of the bed...