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Fix for A/C issue??

wowens79

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Great info!!! Thanks for doing this and posting the results.

The next question is if anyone has gotten temps as low as your closed valve temps without adding a valve. If so then the question is why.
 

Hstone556

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I have the vintage air kit sitting in my room waiting for me to install. I’ve had my heater core closed off for over a month after the dealer said they couldn’t find anything wrong.... I’m getting 8-10* cooler temps and no adverse affects.
b64701e5225660a8cf00780f82e863d8.jpg



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Brutal_HO

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Great info!!! Thanks for doing this and posting the results.

The next question is if anyone has gotten temps as low as your closed valve temps without adding a valve. If so then the question is why.

I'll have to put some sensors to it, but mine seemed to be working pretty good today for a short time in the truck, but it was set to constant LO and it's only 88F.

We're hitting the road for a 2hr drive to the lake, I'll be better able to judge how it's working then.
 

Brutal_HO

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I had to set mine to 70*, got too cold in the cabin, but it was an hour into the trip.

On another note, I'm less than impressed by the vented seats. Seems they got weaker and less effective. Could just be perception, but a seat on HIGH should freeze ma gonads off.
 

2019_Ram

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I posted this in the other AC, but figured I would stick it here in case you all did not see it there.

Came across this on the NHTSA site tonight. Seems to be what I am experiencing with my AC, "Other HVAC issues". For me, the evaporator temperature sensor is reporting 36° to 39° temperatures, while the vent temperatures are anywhere between 55° and 60°. This leads me to believe it is not a compressor issue, but rather an issue with the blend door side of the system.
https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2019/RAM/2500/PU%252FCC/4WD#manufacturerCommunications

NHTSA ID Number: 10175614

"RAM HD/CC. For AC Compressor, If you detected any issue related with: The AC blows warm air, Not Cold, Not cold enough. There is an investigation in the HVAC system If you detected an issue in the HVAC system, follow the procedure "Heating and Air Conditioning Diagnosis and Testing (A/C PERFORMANCE)" Prior to replacement compressor please check first the Temperature on the Evaporator: at 5°C +/- 2 °C & compressor cycling. If you review it and the compressor gets the temperature & it cycling, please continue to your work in other possible HVAC issue. If you have any question or you need more information you can contact us by phone or email contact FCA Redacted Content or by email: FCA Redacted Content If no response in 15 minutes, proceed with repair."
 

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Cummins3

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Like they did mine they will check further diagnosis and check everything within spec. Until there is a recall I don't think it'll b fixed. The problem isn't blowing warm air it's not cold enough at least for me but somehow it's within spec of FCA
 

Burton12387

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[mention]2019_Ram [/mention] thanks for the update.

Did you ever get your valve assembly installed? Were you able to make it fit without cutting any factory hoses? Why did you add the new elbow instead of just pulling off the factory hose and using its end?

Happy with the ac performance after your valve got added?


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2019_Ram

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Unfortunately not yet. I haven't forgotten about it. I've had a few things the last bit that have prevented me from being able to have the truck down. And because of all this, I still haven't needed to fill the truck up this month...
 

2019_Ram

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Well fail on my part. I managed to get the push/pull cable run today for the manual valve I had picked up. Putting several bends in an 8' cable kept it from functioning at all. So, that didn't work as expected.

I also was able to carefully measure for the valve on the inlet side of the heater core. It appears approximately 2" of hose would have to be removed to keep it from kinking with the valve I have. Not necessarily impossible, but would make and already tight spot even tighter. The valve I had ordered ended up being a bit larger than I had expected.

I need to reevaluate how I was planning to do this, and may end up using a Vintage Air electric valve on the output side of the heater core.

After figuring out my thoughts weren't going to work the way I wanted, I temporarily clamped off the heater core output hose. On a hot engine, the vent temps slowly dropped from 56*-57* to 43*-44* over a 10 minute period. Removing the clamp with the engine saw the vent temps increase back to 56*-57* within one to two minutes...
 

flan

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It may be unsightly but can you make a large loop out of a new length of hose? This will allow you to have the valve where you want and not risk kinking anything. You can even put a manual valve out by the battery so you could open and close it without having to reach far into the engine bay.
 

RVTRKN

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I think it is one of those personal opinion things. I’m from SW Kentucky. We see our upper 90s days with 90 percent humidity for feels like temps of 105 plus in the summer. My truck is black as well. I have not had a problem with my AC. Have I had better A/c or heat in other cars? Sure but I can’t say the AC in my Ram is bad, I stay comfortable and cool all summer long. I had never even gave my AC a rating or thought about it until I read on the forum, all the complaints. Then I wondered was there something wrong.
Ya its an opinion issue, however Dodge Ram AC has never been a meat locker.
Humidity? What's that? I just meant it seems to keep up in absolute terms, there were a bunch of posts about problems keeping up even in dry climates like CA & AZ.
I lived in SaCal for most of my life, and for those that think its dry heat, think again when the thunder heads roll over the mountains and the humidity goes over 80% at 110* most auto AC's wont keep up when just getting in the vehicle.

I moved to Vegas a couple of years ago, and white vehicles is all I will buy now, especially Dodge Rams.
 

myersd1

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No scientific tests on my end yet but I have noticed the A/C is barely adequate. On a cooler day you can't run just the vent mode without A/C on as it blows hot air. Now I know why, I will be plugging the heater core outlet to see if it cools things down.
 

RVTRKN

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As a worry of freezing the evaporator, I'm not entirely sold on the idea, however with the valve closed you can cool the cab quickly, then open the valve once the desired temp is reached. Its not that bad when already cooled down, so once the cab is cooled down open the valve to prevent freeze up. If it freeze's up and the dealer discovers the setup, they more likely will deny warranty.
 

2019_Ram

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@RamCares it's there any chance you have heard anymore about an official fix for the extremely poor A/C performance in some of these trucks? I haven't had the opportunity to drive mine much lately, but going to a testing site in this heat wave left the truck barely able to keep the interior cooled to 78*. Outside temp was mid 90's and humid. The HVAC was set on auto and 60* and the truck was constantly running for nearly 2hrs.
 

BlueJoe

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I’ve worked in the automotive field for 20 years and I’ve never seen numbers that low. I’d check your equipment and there’s always a difference from one side to another.
Hey I checked my vent temps with AC on high speed fan at beginning. I used Snapon thermal imager and it measured 38-39 flowing out of all vents and that was 10 - 15 minutes driving then idling for 5 minutes. The temps increased to 48-52 degrees after 30 minutes. Now this is why I think it’s another issue than blend doors.
 

Lilbxl

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If I put my fan speed on any speed lower than 5 on a hot day, it is pointless. Once the cab is cooled down, I can sometimes lower it to 4. To me the fan speed has too much of a percentage increase/drop between speeds. Also, my defroster leaks air by, the windshield condenses in the mornings and I can feel the air coming out. It's not much air but enough.
 

BlueJoe

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If I put my fan speed on any speed lower than 5 on a hot day, it is pointless. Once the cab is cooled down, I can sometimes lower it to 4. To me the fan speed has too much of a percentage increase/drop between speeds. Also, my defroster leaks air by, the windshield condenses in the mornings and I can feel the air coming out. It's not much air but enough.
Hey yes it needs to be on high speed fan to get it to keep just cool not cold. I just read someone who had TSB blend doors done on his 2019 and it didn’t make any difference. I still believe it’s a door motor , cycling or Freon issues. Maybe reset like another member indicates.
 

Lilbxl

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Hey yes it needs to be on high speed fan to get it to keep just cool not cold. I just read someone who had TSB blend doors done on his 2019 and it didn’t make any difference. I still believe it’s a door motor , cycling or Freon issues. Maybe reset like another member indicates.
How do I reset and what am I resetting? Calibrating the blend doors?
 

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