I’m new to owning a Diesel truck and I was told diesel trucks take more engine oil but I got a rough quote from my local dealer of $570 for my trucks first service. That’s oil, an oil filter and the 2 fuel filters changed. They even were charging me $20 to rotate my tires. This seems a bit steep and now I’m looking into doing this service myself. I have the tools I was just thinking it may be tricky/difficult since I’ve never done a fuel filter change on a Diesel engine. Any thoughts?
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Is $570 high for service
- Thread starter Innoi
- Start date
H3LZSN1P3R
You're doing it wrong
Thats pretty normal dealers want 580$ here just for service no rotation, i did my own for 300$ Its not a hard job there are a few youtube vids if you need info... i recommend you buy the fumoto oil valve m18x1.5 thread for future services makes draining the oil so much cleaner...
My first oil change was free. I tried to argue the 5000 mile diesel oil change, but they wouldn't budge on the 5k mark. I like to think I could take it in for a real service, but I simply do not trust them to do a real service as outlined in the manual. I have the space to do so.
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Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
Welcome to Diesel maintenance and welcome to the forum
I have gone to lube places with my 2013 RAm 2500 diesel. I said if they could put in the Shell Rotilla diesel oil in my truck and change the filter for less than 20-30 what I can buy the parts for, I'd let them do it. PepBoys did it and so did Shell oil change and car wash. The manager at the Shell said he started stocking bulk Shell Rotella and I noticed he had several diesel trucks in that morning. And I will miss the free wash from the Shell place.
If you are to do it yourself:
Mopar Oil Filter $15
Mopar Fuel Filter (engine mounted) $77
Mopar Fuel Filter (chassis mounted) $49
3 Gal Rotella $90
Total = $231
Also need the correct 6pt socket for the fuel filter cap
Oil filter wrench
Might want the filter cap-off tool from Genos for $30. Not necessary but helpful. I used to use a 1 gal ziplock but they tend to rip.
And, finally, you'll want a place where your kids won't hear you cursing about where the oil filter is located and how much oil you spilled getting it out. Either that or you need to disassemble the turbo inlet to reach it from up top.
Mopar Oil Filter $15
Mopar Fuel Filter (engine mounted) $77
Mopar Fuel Filter (chassis mounted) $49
3 Gal Rotella $90
Total = $231
Also need the correct 6pt socket for the fuel filter cap
Oil filter wrench
Might want the filter cap-off tool from Genos for $30. Not necessary but helpful. I used to use a 1 gal ziplock but they tend to rip.
And, finally, you'll want a place where your kids won't hear you cursing about where the oil filter is located and how much oil you spilled getting it out. Either that or you need to disassemble the turbo inlet to reach it from up top.
H3LZSN1P3R
You're doing it wrong
The oil filter on these trucks is one of the better ones to change from all my other cummins trucks....
D
Deleted member 80
Guest
Shop strategically for oil ahead of your service, and you can snag some deals, and rebates. I have not paid more than $20/gal for full synthetic, and have netted down to @$11/gal when rebates hit at the right time.
I shop online for Mopar filters. Dealerships and distributors put stuff on eBay in sets periodically. I was able to save 40% from MSRP. I need to shopfor my 2020 RAM 3500 now.
I had not heard of them changing anything around the oil filter in 2019. If you are comparing your 2019 to a 2005 and 2001, how in the world do you think it is "better" when there is a crossmember that prevents direct access to the filter from below? My 2003 was a breeze compared to my 2015.
sstoner911
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Yes, that petty close to what it is here in Tucson. If you the oil changes be sure to buy the filter plug so you don't end up cussing and cleaning up oil.
H3LZSN1P3R
You're doing it wrong
Fender liner on my 05 and 01 made it much worse this one is easy from the side just reach in take the filter off and pull through the fender liner hardly loose any oil from the filter
bfs673
Active Member
I've always done the top, removing the turbo inlet. A pain, but wasn't too bad after a while. Use the gallon Ziploc bag, works great so long as things aren't too hot.
With my '21, perhaps I need to re-think that. Do you find the cap to work well getting it out of the wheel well?
Any changes from '14 non-ho to '21 non-ho?
HUGE +1 on the fumoto valve !!! Had it on my '14, already bought one for my '21 and just waiting for the first oil change!
H3LZSN1P3R
You're doing it wrong
One other tip get some 5/16 tubing when draining the water separator who the hell though putting it above the rear shaft was a good idea just ends up getting fuel everywhere...
D
Deleted member 80
Guest
The drain valve also dribbles like heck once you open it a turn. Definitely not one of their better ideas.
sstoner911
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farmallboy
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Dang. That's bad. I got a couple freebies coming for my 6.4 gasser. I'm somewhat nervous about shop mech doing it but it was part of my negotiating at purchase. But I just broke 4K. Time to make a decision.
I've always done my own. Just seems better. One time my local Cummins dealer gave me wrong filter. Of course didn't realize it till it was ready to go on. Truck sat IN THE MIDDLE of the driveway for 3 days. I double check before draining now haha.
But man. My 03 CR was easy to change and cheap as I recall. Didn't think I had much more than 100 in everything ? Maybe my memory is that bad, but synthetic wasn't a thing yet so that was some of the cost.
I've always done my own. Just seems better. One time my local Cummins dealer gave me wrong filter. Of course didn't realize it till it was ready to go on. Truck sat IN THE MIDDLE of the driveway for 3 days. I double check before draining now haha.
But man. My 03 CR was easy to change and cheap as I recall. Didn't think I had much more than 100 in everything ? Maybe my memory is that bad, but synthetic wasn't a thing yet so that was some of the cost.