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Sway when towing TT

MikeXM said:
So you do have a friction sway control hitch. By the look of your truck picture and how low the rear is, you might have pretty much maxed the leveling capacity of this hitch. So the friction is also at the maximum it can provide.
Maybe your tong weight is actually higher than what you think. And your hitch is actually at its limit. A beefier one would increase friction too. So less likely to sway.

Please note that a friction sway hitch has its limits in controlling sway. Some will keep it perfectly under control, some will still experience sway regardless.

Question: Please define the sway you are experiencing: Are you just feeling the trailer move a bit left and right and you feel the truck being pulled a few seconds then goes away or does it actually sway like a full "S" or more (oscillating several cycles)?
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I can raise or lower the height of the hitch a couple inches either way with my current setup, and I do suspect I am heavier then I look. As to your question, I feel it move left and right, when I am passing a semi for example, I pull into it (pretty close sometimes) as I approach the side of them, and as I pull ahead I will pull away. With strong winds I can feel the same motion, but still just a few seconds, and goes away. Nothing severe enough to feel a full S.
 
LateToTheParty said:
I rented a nearly identical TT to that one earlier this year for a hunting trip. That included the use of the same E2 WD hitch.

At the time, I still had my 2016 with 6" lift, 37s.

When I picked up the trailer using the rental place's hitch setup, it was ridiculously squirrely on my way home. But when I moved their ball setup over to my drop hitch and shank, then readjusted everything, it was a night and day difference.

Assuming you've already readjusted your hitch setup...
And also assuming your rear suspension is all stock...

If it really bothers you enough, I'd suggest looking into airbags. But for the handful of trips per year, if it is just a minor inconvenience, I'd probably just roll with it.
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Yes, I have adjusted it to the middle and to the lower notches, not a big difference. And yes rear is stock.
and yea, based on what everyone has said I might just roll with it a couple years, and if someday we decide to take it more places and longer drives I will upgrade both the hitch and add in airbags.
 
DJ Underwood said:
Yes, I have adjusted it to the middle and to the lower notches, not a big difference. And yes rear is stock.
and yea, based on what everyone has said I might just roll with it a couple years, and if someday we decide to take it more places and longer drives I will upgrade both the hitch and add in airbags.
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Sorry, I didn't mean up and down on the shank, but rather the amount of washers you have included to adjust the angle of it.

Similarly, you can adjust were the L-brackets are on the frame of the trailer to assist some as well.
 
I highly recommend you get the instructions, and reset everything up from zero. Not just spitballing it. It should improve everything, and no weighing needed. When you are out on your next trip, stop at a scale then, and than you can fine tune everything up.

I went from a 2500 to a 3500, and due to the different heights, did that. Just saying it is "x" higher, and going with that doesn't always work. Truck may or may not squat as much also.
 
LateToTheParty said:
Sorry, I didn't mean up and down on the shank, but rather the amount of washers you have included to adjust the angle of it.

Similarly, you can adjust were the L-brackets are on the frame of the trailer to assist some as well.
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Ah I see, I will take a closer look at those, they weren't changed from my last TT, but I can see if I can pitch the angle up some.
 
To set that hitch up correctly you need to measure the 4 wheel arches empty, then add the trailer and get the front wheel arches back to within a quarter inch (closer to zero is better) to empty. That means that you removed weight from the rear axle of the truck and applied it back to the front axle to replace almost or even all of the lost front axle weight.

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
 
Lary0071 said:
To set that hitch up correctly you need to measure the 4 wheel arches empty, then add the trailer and get the front wheel arches back to within a quarter inch (closer to zero is better) to empty. That means that you removed weight from the rear axle of the truck and applied it back to the front axle to replace almost or even all of the lost front axle weight.

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
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Awesome, that makes a lot of sense, thank you!
 
DJ Underwood said:
First, thanks to everyone for your advice and replies, I do appreciate all your time. I do believe that a couple people were correct that the WDH is also sway control, to a point. Its a straight bar style hitch, worked great on my last truck / trailer.
2nd, yes I do need to weigh the trailer loaded (or as I tow it with gear but rarely any water), I need to find a scale but the nearest one to me is about an hour away or so.
3rd, Yes I know the leveling kit kinda causes the issue, dealer installed as well, but it does look good IMO :cool:.
4th, This is a Rear Kitchen trailer, so based on the axel placement it should be pretty much 10-12% tongue weight if I were to guess.
I think I answered everyone...
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The scale doesn't have to be a CAT scale either... A feed mill, concrete plant,etc... will have a truck scale large enough for your combination.
 
There are a lot of aggregate pits out your way that I used to move road base and asphalt out of. Lot's of scales. Follow the dump trucks and look for silos. Go sweet talk the 'ol piece of leather at the scale house and they'll let you weigh out. :D
 
Do these feed mills and concrete places weigh all axles or just one lump sum

Our dump and concrete places only give the gross weight.

A CAT scale will give you steer, drive, and trailer.

You make 3 weighs. Just truck. Truck and trailer without bars hooked up and then truck and trailer with bars hooked up.

This then allows you to know your tongue weight. It allows you to know how much weight you lost off the front, and how much you need to get back. And also if your bars are doing their job.

It is 12 bucks for the first weigh and 2 each for the other 2.

Still hate levels lol
 
DevilDodge said:
Do these feed mills and concrete places weigh all axles or just one lump sum

Our dump and concrete places only give the gross weight.

A CAT scale will give you steer, drive, and trailer.

You make 3 weighs. Just truck. Truck and trailer without bars hooked up and then truck and trailer with bars hooked up.

This then allows you to know your tongue weight. It allows you to know how much weight you lost off the front, and how much you need to get back. And also if your bars are doing their job.

It is 12 bucks for the first weigh and 2 each for the other 2.

Still hate levels lol
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You would have to ask the weighmaster... It probably would depend on how busy they were at the time
 
davis2 said:
You would have to ask the weighmaster... It probably would depend on how busy they were at the time
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So I am guessing the answer is no. A CAT scale weighs each one at the same time.

Pulling forward on a single weigh scale will skew the numbers.

But I suppose it would get you close.

And if the area is lacking in CAT scales, it would be better than taking a long ride just to get some weights.
 
DevilDodge said:
So I am guessing the answer is no. A CAT scale weighs each one at the same time.

Pulling forward on a single weigh scale will skew the numbers.

But I suppose it would get you close.

And if the area is lacking in CAT scales, it would be better than taking a long ride just to get some weights.
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I can't speak for individual businesses. How would it skew the numbers? Those scales are certified, (or should be) they are checked like any scale used for trade. Use a CAT scale then, I was only offering an alternative for people without access to a CAT scale.
 
davis2 said:
I can't speak for individual businesses. How would it skew the numbers? Those scales are certified, (or should be) they are checked like any scale used for trade. Use a CAT scale then, I was only offering an alternative for people without access to a CAT scale.
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I am asking a question. I am not arguing with you.

I am asking if they have 3 seperate pads. How would you weigh each axle? If it is not you would have to try to pull up with only the front on. Some weight staying with the back...you can get the point.

I am attempting to see if you have a way to do this alternative to a 3 pad scale.

I will go back to my hole now.
 
DevilDodge said:
I am asking a question. I am not arguing with you.

I am asking if they have 3 seperate pads. How would you weigh each axle? If it is not you would have to try to pull up with only the front on. Some weight staying with the back...you can get the point.

I am attempting to see if you have a way to do this alternative to a 3 pad scale.

I will go back to my hole now.
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All mills are probably different. You can axle weigh on a big scale, but not with the precision of a cat scale. Sorry if I mistook you for arguing...
 
Brutal deals with enough arguing everyday. I sure am not going to do any.

My posts were to point out the need for precise axle weights for the calculations. Especially with a level.

I was just curious if there were other scales of this type. Or if you did mean to drive each axle onto the scale separately. I also just wanted to point out that he needed more than just gross weight.

As the other post says about measuring each corner. That is a very good process. And will get a person close. In some cases real close.

But the level takes that almost out of the park. As it takes away the first few inches of the rake...and ultimately makes it look overloaded even though it may not be.

The option you gave is a great one. Especially if the 3 pad scale is so far away.

Conversations on the internet are always fun. I assure you I agree with you. I was just hoping to learn something new
 
DevilDodge said:
Brutal deals with enough arguing everyday. I sure am not going to do any.

My posts were to point out the need for precise axle weights for the calculations. Especially with a level.

I was just curious if there were other scales of this type. Or if you did mean to drive each axle onto the scale separately. I also just wanted to point out that he needed more than just gross weight.

As the other post says about measuring each corner. That is a very good process. And will get a person close. In some cases real close.

But the level takes that almost out of the park. As it takes away the first few inches of the rake...and ultimately makes it look overloaded even though it may not be.

The option you gave is a great one. Especially if the 3 pad scale is so far away.

Conversations on the internet are always fun. I assure you I agree with you. I was just hoping to learn something new
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Precise weights require special equipment... The cops have the equipment to make the FINES precise, LOL!
 
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