25 Ram 3500 emissions

[akhdram]

Hello I'm new to forums in general so apologies if I bypass any protocols.
I live in Alaska and in the last 8 weeks we have not gotten warmer than -20f. 2 days ago it was 28f and yesterday it was 41f. In Ak we put heating pads on our oil Pan, and transmission Pan. We also have trickke chargers for our batteries. I've had my truck plugged in 95% of time these past few weeks. My def tank seemed to be "stuck" at about half tank. A few weeks ago before I used my truck I got a code p2453. I put a torpedo heater directing the heat under my truck around the area I thought was the dpf filter. It was on for about 4 hours and a lot of snow/ice came off from the undercarriage. The code seem to go away. Yesterday I was going to town to buy a generator which is a necessity for us living off grid. After about 15 miles I noticed my def Gauge dropped down to a hair above the red. Further down the road I got the message service def see dealer and a while later in x miles I go into limp mode. It's around 46 miles to town. I went to a mechanic shop. He used his code reader and he said the codes were stored and none were active. I started the truck and the Mil was off. I then bought my generator then to fuel station to fuel up and buy def. I added the def and it went up just over half. Driving back home the Mil light came back on and 123 miles before limp mode. I was about half way back when the light came on. I made it home and have 75 miles before limp mode. The stealership is 145 miles away. I have a p1c54 and p2453 code. I did own a 17 Ram 2500 which I deleted in 2020 and after it was deleted had no codes what so ever. In sep 25 it was totaled after hitting a moose. So I'm rusty with all the emissions stuff. Is there something I can do like removing the sensor and doing resistance check?

 

[Brutal_HO]

Hello I'm new to forums in general so apologies if I bypass any protocols.
I live in Alaska and in the last 8 weeks we have not gotten warmer than -20f. 2 days ago it was 28f and yesterday it was 41f. In Ak we put heating pads on our oil Pan, and transmission Pan. We also have trickke chargers for our batteries. I've had my truck plugged in 95% of time these past few weeks. My def tank seemed to be "stuck" at about half tank. A few weeks ago before I used my truck I got a code p2453. I put a torpedo heater directing the heat under my truck around the area I thought was the dpf filter. It was on for about 4 hours and a lot of snow/ice came off from the undercarriage. The code seem to go away. Yesterday I was going to town to buy a generator which is a necessity for us living off grid. After about 15 miles I noticed my def Gauge dropped down to a hair above the red. Further down the road I got the message service def see dealer and a while later in x miles I go into limp mode. It's around 46 miles to town. I went to a mechanic shop. He used his code reader and he said the codes were stored and none were active. I started the truck and the Mil was off. I then bought my generator then to fuel station to fuel up and buy def. I added the def and it went up just over half. Driving back home the Mil light came back on and 123 miles before limp mode. I was about half way back when the light came on. I made it home and have 75 miles before limp mode. The stealership is 145 miles away. I have a p1c54 and p2453 code. I did own a 17 Ram 2500 which I deleted in 2020 and after it was deleted had no codes what so ever. In sep 25 it was totaled after hitting a moose. So I'm rusty with all the emissions stuff. Is there something I can do like removing the sensor and doing resistance check?

Did you mean to say heater under DEF tank?

Heating the DPF filter on the exhaust isn't going to unfreeze the DEF tank. If the doser/injector is frozen, the heat from the exhaust should thaw it. For 2025 The DEF injector is on the front of the downpipe after the Turbo/DOC and before the SCR. It should be right at the turn in the downpipe.

If you can get it in a warm building and get some heat into the DEF tank to help thaw what is surely a frozen block, that might help the P1C54 issue. Only filling 1/2 is wise in freezing temps. There is logic to work around a frozen DEF tank, but there are certainly time limits before it's going to throw a code if it doesn't thaw and start injecting.

I'd check with dealer, but I believe as long as you don't shut off the truck before hitting the limp mode limit, it will keep going until you shut it off.

Have seen a lot of reports of DEF tank/heater assembly being replaced on the 25's and backorders on parts seem to be the norm.

P1C54 is DEF related, faulty or clogged injector.
P2453 is DPF pressure sensor.

 

[akhdram]

Did you mean to say heater under DEF tank?

Heating the DPF filter on the exhaust isn't going to unfreeze the DEF tank. If the doser/injector is frozen, the heat from the exhaust should thaw it. For 2025 The DEF injector is on the front of the downpipe after the Turbo/DOC and before the SCR. It should be right at the turn in the downpipe.

If you can get it in a warm building and get some heat into the DEF tank to help thaw what is surely a frozen block, that might help the P1C54 issue. Only filling 1/2 is wise in freezing temps. There is logic to work around a frozen DEF tank, but there are certainly time limits before it's going to throw a code if it doesn't thaw and start injecting.

I'd check with dealer, but I believe as long as you don't shut off the truck before hitting the limp mode limit, it will keep going until you shut it off.

Have seen a lot of reports of DEF tank/heater assembly being replaced on the 25's and backorders on parts seem to be the norm.

P1C54 is DEF related, faulty or clogged injector.
P2453 is DPF pressure sensor.

Do you think I should try the heater approach instead of looking for the dpf pressure sensor and doing some type of resistance check or cleaning it?

 

[akhdram]

Do you think I should try the heater approach instead of looking for the dpf pressure sensor and doing some type of resistance check or cleaning it?

Trying the heater...going to run it about 4 hours again...what is the best code reader for this truck? I have the old one I used on my 17. It's an innova 5610 it reads the codes I think. The p1C54 says missing Nox sensor.

 

[akhdram]

I ran heater about 5 hrs. Started truck ans still had Mil. Connected innova 5610 code reader and it says def temp is 64f . I put a jug of def in yesterday so I know I have at least half a tank per the Gauge on the dash. Live data says def level is 0. Dpf pressure pre is.13% and post is 0. Dpf filter says 79% full. What do you suggest my next step be?

 

[akhdram]

I ran heater about 5 hrs. Started truck ans still had Mil. Connected innova 5610 code reader and it says def temp is 64f . I put a jug of def in yesterday so I know I have at least half a tank per the Gauge on the dash. Live data says def level is 0. Dpf pressure pre is.13% and post is 0. Dpf filter says 79% full. What do you suggest my next step be?

Is there a way I can do a manual dpf regen?

 

[Brutal_HO]

Is there a way I can do a manual dpf regen?

I don't know if a bypass is needed for manual DPF regen, I suspect it is and on the 25+ trucks it's more complicated.

Are you able to clear any codes?

The only thing I can suggest at this point is to disconnect the batteries for 30 minutes.

@mbarber84 @AH64ID you guys think of anything?

 

[akhdram]

I don't know if a bypass is needed for manual DPF regen, I suspect it is and on the 25+ trucks it's more complicated.

Are you able to clear any codes?

The only thing I can suggest at this point is to disconnect the batteries for 30 minutes.

@mbarber84 @AH64ID you guys think of anything?

 

[akhdram]

Thank you for your responses. Last night I disconnected the battery for over an hour. Was splitting wood thus more than 30 mins. I can try and clear the code just not super confident they won't come back and limp mode gives me less miles...lol
I'm going to remove the def injector and check it..

 

[akhdram]

Thank you for your responses. Last night I disconnected the battery for over an hour. Was splitting wood thus more than 30 mins. I can try and clear the code just not super confident they won't come back and limp mode gives me less miles...lol
I'm going to remove the def injector and check it..

I removed the def injector. It had some carbon build up and not white crystallization. I cleaned it with warm water. I reinstalled it and got more codes. P2509 and p2048 and I don't remember the number of the other one something about ecu/ecm intermittent signal. Cycled truck off and on and that code went away. Now I have 7 codes. P1C54 P2509 and p2048 both stored and pending.
I was wondering if I drive my truck to a populated area and have it towed from there to the dealer if that would void my warranty.

 

[Trash Panda]

The truck is under warranty, I’d get it to a dealer to deal with.

Seems like things are going the wrong direction with the home remedies.

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

I removed the def injector. It had some carbon build up and not white crystallization. I cleaned it with warm water. I reinstalled it and got more codes. P2509 and p2048 and I don't remember the number of the other one something about ecu/ecm intermittent signal. Cycled truck off and on and that code went away. Now I have 7 codes. P1C54 P2509 and p2048 both stored and pending.
I was wondering if I drive my truck to a populated area and have it towed from there to the dealer if that would void my warranty.

It’s under warranty, why didn’t you just take it to a dealer for repair?
Doesn’t make sense to attempt fixing it yourself.

 

[akhdram]

It’s under warranty, why didn’t you just take it to a dealer for repair?
Doesn’t make sense to attempt fixing it yourself.

The dealer us 139 miles away and limp mode starts in 76 miles...I live 45 mules from the nearest town.

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

The dealer us 139 miles away and limp mode starts in 76 miles...I live 45 mules from the nearest town.

Flat bed car hauler. See if the dealer will get Ram to pay since it’s still under warranty.

 

[akhdram]

It’s under warranty, why didn’t you just take it to a dealer for repair?
Doesn’t make sense to attempt fixing it yourself.

I called the dealership 1St thing this morning and the next available appt is Feb 11. In Fairbanks AK there is only one dealership. In Anchorage AK there is two but that's over 700 miles from where I live. Fairbanks is closer and only 139 miles away. Not sure the Ram roadside covers that distance. I'm looking now for that info unless some ine here has had experience and give
me more info.

 

[akhdram]

When I called last Friday they were gone for the day and they're closed on sat. This is my farm truck so we use it for a variety of chores. My other vehicles are not capable.

 

[Trash Panda]

I called the dealership 1St thing this morning and the next available appt is Feb 11. In Fairbanks AK there is only one dealership. In Anchorage AK there is two but that's over 700 miles from where I live. Fairbanks is closer and only 139 miles away. Not sure the Ram roadside covers that distance. I'm looking now for that info unless some ine here has had experience and give
me more info.

Meh, it’s gonna need to get towed to be fixed regardless, I’d get the truck there and work out the details later.

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

When I called last Friday they were gone for the day and they're closed on sat. This is my farm truck so we use it for a variety of chores. My other vehicles are not capable.

That sucks but you’re likely to cause more problems trying to “fix” it yourself. Ram could deny coverage because you tampered with stuff. Just sayin’.

 

[akhdram]

Two weeks ago it warmed up to above 0 for our daytime temps before that we were in minus 30f or colder. My neighbor 1 ton Chevy 4wd gave out my other neighbor blew a radiator Hose and seized his engine. My other neighbor sold his f450 2 weeks ago and they picked it up last Friday. Out of friends/neighbors with big rigs. My one friend said he would try with his f150 but not sure how he would get thru the snow on my 15 mile stretch of road...my car hauler has a busted axle and my neighbors gooseneck has brake issues. In AK generally we do all of our maintenance in the winter. With minus 50f temps it's a struggle to keep our shops warm with a wood stove sometimes only getting the temp up inside the shop up to 35f. Electricity is very expensive so most of us use wood for heat. We set a record for 6 weeks of minus 30f or colder. Last time it was this cold was 25 yrs ago. Because of the extreme cold a lot of us have gotten behind on our maintenance. This is the time of year where I would have fixed my axle on my trailer but too cold outside and air compressors and power tools don't act right at those temps.

 

[mbarber84]

Lots to take in here:

Some initial points:

You’ll need a pretty high level scan tool and a bypass to get able to perform a parked regeneration. Since it’s a 2025, you may be forced to go through the dealership as it’s an all new CAN-FD architecture that a lot of aftermarket devices can’t fully communicate with.

Has your truck ever been back to the dealer since its initial purchase? There have been a multitude of software updates for these trucks that were focused on fixing a variety of issues to include DEF / SCR problems.

Don’t know for sure if it’ll work on 2025+ trucks, but on 2024 and older model years, if you got into a bind where you had an SCR / DEF related failure resulting in a 150 mile countdown to 5mph speed limited mode, you can continue to drive normally even when the counter reaches 0 miles remaining. So long as you don’t shut it down and restart, stop and sit in idle / park for long, or attempt to put fuel in the tank after the 0 miles remaining, it’ll still let you drive normally. As a work-around, you can disconnect all four wheel speed sensors, you could drive it continuously until you reached your destination with no problems aside from some more codes.