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You need to diagnose for excessive drain with the ignition shut off for at least a half hour. With all the modules, there is the possibility one or more are not shutting down. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to do this.
Thank You! Haven't yet begun the process, but have watched several videos regarding the subject. Seems to be straight forward as long as you can find and read schematics. Finding a draw in a 40A Fuse under the hood leads to several possible fuses at the fuse box normally located under the dash or in an interior compartment that could be the culprit. Hopefully it's possible to find online schematics that identify which components the 40A Fuse relays power to.
Curious if it actually works. Update the post once you complete the project. Thanks
Whats the P2509 code and what is meant by CEL?
The dealer probably doesn't want to spend the time looking for a parasite drain in the electrical system given its time consuming. They will wait until the warranty expires so they can charge the customer for a $150 diagnose fee, several hours of research work as well as cost for parts.
This is a relatively easy and fast way to check the source of parasitic draw. Once the truck is been shut down (doors closed and trip the hood latch) for at least a half hour, the total current draw should be less than about 30 milliamps. Since a specific fuse has a specific element size, determining the voltage drop in millivolts across the fuse will tell you how much current is flowing in that circuit. There are charts that let you convert the voltage drop to amps. Other methods have you pulling the fuse but that wakes the module and you have to wait for that module to shut down again. This method leaves everything in a sleep state, unless one is not shutting down. Don't really need the schematics to identify the circuit since it is identified on the fuse block cover. However, once you identify the circuit, a schmatic does help in some cases. Hope this helps.
Don't own a Volt Meter, but took my truck back to Walmart where I purchased the battery and it showed correct voltage and a good battery however, I'm sure the 8 mile trip down an interstate highway charged the battery to full capacity. I'll need to purchase a volt meter and start trying to narrow down where the drain is occurring.
There is a screen on the EVIC that actually shows voltage. It isn’t perfect, but it’s pretty damn close.
That must be the tracking device installed to show the dealer your current mileage, TPMS and current Oil Life so they can tell you when to bring your vehicle in for service. I hate the fact the dealer can track me. This is against the LAW and my Rights as an American Citizen.
I believe that tracking is built into the system by Ram and doesn't need an aftermarket device. I suspect the dealer installed tracker is for if you finance the vehicle through dealer programs. But the ones that put it on appear to put them an all vehicles. In my case they agreed to remove it from the quote since I wasn't financing the truck through them. Interestingly I found the uninstalled device when I was cleaning out my truck.
Definitely will, but it’ll be a while before I have time. Holiday season is hella busy
My factory batteries just died on 2022 Ram 2500 6.7. Towed to dealer and was about 1500 miles out of warranty. They ended up changing two batteries and agreed to go 60/40 with me on cost. My 40% was $450. Ouch!Maybe the old trick where the "normal price" is increased by the amount of the "discount"?
You should’ve bought your own batteries the dealer batteries are junk and overpriced
