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On the fence on oil change and other questions
- Thread starter SNJerz
- Start date
Pearce
Well-Known Member
They have green for gear oil now.
81182
OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
I would change the bolts out 1 at a time and see if that didn’t stop the leak. Also spray around the outside edge of the cover all the way around with some brake cleaner. I used mineral spirits on mine.
I would vacuum out the Severe Gear and reinstall it.
I would vacuum out the Severe Gear and reinstall it.
SNJerz
Member
Not even gonna lie olejoe I didn’t even think about vacuuming it out and putting it back in! Hand hits forehead.
SNJerz
Member
I looked at that as a possibility but main issue is it recommends after application 24hrs of cure before adding fluids. Don’t have that kind of time window at the shop where I’m doing this at.They have green for gear oil now.
Pearce
Well-Known Member
In that case use The Right Stuff black one minute or 90 minute. It's fine for gear oil. I believe the Lube locker gasket is reusable too. Used in the past on smaller axles with no issue.
SNJerz
Member
So changed out the trans fluid and filters today and put the new mishimoto pan on as well with a lubelocker gasket. Went off without a hitch caught all the trans fluid in an oversized drain pan with capacity markings. All told almost 10qts came out of the trans and being on a lift I was able to undo the bolts on one side and let the majority of the fluid in the old pan out first.
Replaced the plastic nipple on the new spin on filter with the metal one filled it with new trans fluid and got it hand tight then gave it a 1/4 turn more. Old sump filter came out and the seal for the neck in the valve body looked good so I didn’t see the need to mess with replacing it so in went the new one. Lube locker gasket went on the new pan and let me tell you the bolt retainers for the mishimoto pan help out a lot. Torqued the bolts down to 105 inch pounds per OEM spec and according to the bolt pattern Lubelocker provided.
With right at almost 10qts in the waste oil pan and the mishimoto adding 2 1/2 qts capacity I put back in 10qts MOPAR ATF+4 to start. Turned the truck on and with the parking brake on and service brake engaged ran through the gear range several times then put her in Neutral to run to get the temp up. Checked the dipstick several times and it went from full at the hot range down to barely touching the dipstick tip. Put in another 2 qts with the trans at 122 degrees temp and that took it up to right at the bottom hot mark. Drove the truck 30 miles highway and 10 to 15 city to check with stops to recheck trans fluid. At 177 degrees she is at the hot full mark.
One thing I noticed the fluid that came out was really bad so I think that was the first time it had been serviced or it had been a really long time. It had a MOPAR gasket on it not RTV but I have heard some from the factory have the gasket.
Replaced the plastic nipple on the new spin on filter with the metal one filled it with new trans fluid and got it hand tight then gave it a 1/4 turn more. Old sump filter came out and the seal for the neck in the valve body looked good so I didn’t see the need to mess with replacing it so in went the new one. Lube locker gasket went on the new pan and let me tell you the bolt retainers for the mishimoto pan help out a lot. Torqued the bolts down to 105 inch pounds per OEM spec and according to the bolt pattern Lubelocker provided.
With right at almost 10qts in the waste oil pan and the mishimoto adding 2 1/2 qts capacity I put back in 10qts MOPAR ATF+4 to start. Turned the truck on and with the parking brake on and service brake engaged ran through the gear range several times then put her in Neutral to run to get the temp up. Checked the dipstick several times and it went from full at the hot range down to barely touching the dipstick tip. Put in another 2 qts with the trans at 122 degrees temp and that took it up to right at the bottom hot mark. Drove the truck 30 miles highway and 10 to 15 city to check with stops to recheck trans fluid. At 177 degrees she is at the hot full mark.
One thing I noticed the fluid that came out was really bad so I think that was the first time it had been serviced or it had been a really long time. It had a MOPAR gasket on it not RTV but I have heard some from the factory have the gasket.
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OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
Looks good. Does it take a special sump filter with the new pan?
SNJerz
Member
Nope OleJoe it just takes the standard MOPAR sump filter. Another feature I like with the mishimoto pan it has a raised fin under the spin on filter so even if it try’s to back off and loosen it physically can’t.
OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
Sounds good
TW720HVY
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Seriously asking, why?
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Becuase the lifters aren't compatible with 15w-40.
24Megacab
Active Member
Stellantis believes that using a full synthetic oil will prevent deposits as compared to someone using el cheapo conventional 15w-40 at the recommended 15k oil change interval. Stellantis essentially prohibited the use of all 15w-40 oils because of this. I personally feel that a full synthetic 15w40 would be fine, so long as the winter rating was utilized in an appropriate climate. I haven’t run it myself; but, I use 5w40 year round as we dropped to around -8F this winter. If I were out of warranty, and living in Florida for example, I’d run a quality 15w40 without a second thought.
TW720HVY
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That makes sense, thank you for the clarification. I just ordered Schaeffer's SynShield 10W-30.
Excellent information, thank you.
8lugsynthetics
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Its great ATF smells rank but works great lol
SNJerz
Member
So just did my oil change, fuel filters, cabin air filter, and air filter. She had 8,523 miles on her since it was changed by the dealership on 12/13/24 who sold it to me and 84,212 miles on the odometer. Used Valvoline Premium Blue Synthetic 5w40 and all Fleetguard filters except for the cabin air filter (NAPA enviroshield). I'm sending the old oil which I believe from the service record is Bulk synthetic blend 10w30 to blackstone to have it analyzed. Dash was still showing 48% oil life and 43% fuel filter life but for me oil changes are a once a year deal due to the low mileage. The oil coming out wasn't that bad so I am curious what the analysis says. At how many miles do most of you guys do your oil changes?
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10-15k depending on duty cycle and what the oil analysis trends.
FWIW, Blackstone is a mediocre lab. Their turnaround time is slow and you’re paying a lot of money for a partial analysis. (No oxidation test, and outdated / inaccurate flashpoint method for determining fuel dilution. I would recommend Polaris Labs or any other lab that does a full analysis with more up-to-date analyses.
SNJerz
Member
What’s your thoughts on speeddiagnostix?
Much better lab than Blackstone and you get an excellent analysis but very expensive.
Dollar for dollar, I don’t think you can beat Polaris Labs. You can buy their analysis kits through Fleetguard, Cummins, or Amsoil as all three corporations use them as their independent analysis lab. The kits you buy from Amsoil are the “advanced” kit which gets you a full analysis and they’re also prepaid shipping included. They’re $33 with a PC account.
SNJerz
Member
I didn’t even know Amsoil offered testing, you learn something new everyday. I’ll look into Polaris as I represent 375 Cummins techs including the parts guys. I may go with speeddiagnostix because I’m only going to be doing it once a year so the economics aren’t that bad.