mjb765
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Good to know....I already have the switches since I needed a specific set of buttons.
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Aux Switches
- Thread starter EEBTTF
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RHD_Godzilla
Active Member
If you have the aux PDC already then it’s easy to make the harness and add the buttons.
mjb765
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I don't have the pdc.I just have the switch panel.
Mostly, and though not directly related to adding AUX, the 21+ has some extra pass-thru wiring in the factory (left dash) harness.
RHD_Godzilla
Active Member
I haven’t seen an updated one. There was one on one of the pages. Can’t remember if it was in my DIY somewhere or if it’s in another thread pertaining to aux switches or AlfaObd
I’m not 100%, but I don’t believe there is a matching panel. PWs are the only trucks with HDC on the switch panel, and they aren’t available with Aux switches.
Thanks all, I’m the “buddy” w/the new ‘24 PW. Traded in my ‘14 last week. Spent years building it out (all documented in the PW forum), time to start over. Wanted to start my mods w/ the OEM aux switches, PDC, wiring kit etc., but looks like the switch panel for my config is a no-go, for now. Read all 31 pages a few times, well done DIY posts, very helpful & packed w/ great info.
If you ever find a solution out, please let me know cuz I’m in the exact same boat.
Technically you could install a different panel if you were willing to give up your hill descent control.
But could you install the panel with alt trailer height as the first button and control the HDC with that (potential repin)? You would just have a mislabeled button
Unfortunately not. The buttons send commands over the CAN bus for each different button, so it doesn't matter what position they're in, and there's no way to "re-pin" or rewire them.
They sure don’t make it easy. And since aux switches & PDV is not even a build option, I don’t think MOPAR will make the right switch panel available w/ HDC. Makes path forward easy—aftermarket.
Are the buttons “smart”? The wiring diagram looks like if it’s an active button ( not a blank) then it just sends 12v to the connector on the switch panel to the radio head mated connector & based on position, sends signal to the canbus which is programmed by truck ID to send power to the relay for that position’s (#1-5) function: HDC, Traction, Tow, Rear Park, Front Park. Does the icon on the front of the button matter?
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If you discover this to be true, I'll buy you a beer
I don’t believe so, because of that were the case then I don’t think switching between the “piano keys” and an aux switch panel on some trucks wouldn’t work. On the Hemi non-PW trucks without air suspension the buttons aren’t on the same order between those two different types of switch panels.
I’d guess the only way to know for certain would be to try it though.
Yep, agree, but $260 for the panel is an expensive experiment if it’s a no-go.
Should be way less than that. Check BAM auto parts.
My new Left Dash Wiring harness showed up. It doesn't match my truck (I knew it wouldn't) so I'll be stripping it down to the Aux PDC and associated wiring.
Unfortunately it showed up with a broken mounting tab on one of the Aux PDC side connectors, so I guess I'll need to find and order a new one. Looks like it's a Yazaki 7283-5595-10, or 7283-5929-10 if you want it with the red locking tab.
Unfortunately it showed up with a broken mounting tab on one of the Aux PDC side connectors, so I guess I'll need to find and order a new one. Looks like it's a Yazaki 7283-5595-10, or 7283-5929-10 if you want it with the red locking tab.
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Finished the harness work and install.
Whoever tapes these wiring harnesses up must get paid by the mile! Man that was a lot of tape.
The harness I used was the cheapest I could find with the aux PDC, part number 68623211AA, which best I can tell comparing the wiring to the Upfitters diagrams is from a 2024 chassis cab with the Hemi and no PTO, as it didn’t have the electric heater relays, but it had the PTO jumper connector with only two wires. Interestingly it also had a Pink with Yellow stripe wire bundled with the passthrough wires that I traced back and found was spliced to the run relay, so I have an ignition hot available in the engine compartment without having to modify the under-dash upfitter plug.
Here’s what I ended up with after removing everything I didn’t need and re-wrapping it in Tesa tape.
For getting the wiring in I initially attempted to use the clutch block off plate, drilling a hole in that and then using a 3/4” cable gland, but because it is further up and towards the center of the truck the wires going to the PDC and the wires going down to XY920 for the rear frame hot and run wouldn’t reach. I ended up going through the additional opening in the main wiring harness pass through. It’s basically a nipple adjust below and to the outside of where the main harness passes through the firewall. It was an extremely tight fit, so I ended up wrapping my harness temporarily in electrical tape and then using some cable pulling lube on it. After it was pulled through I removed the electrical tape wrap and all the mess went with that, leaving the Tesa tape underneath clean and dry. You can see the passthrough in this picture circled in red.
Connector XY920 (the connector with the blue latch in the below photo) was a pain to get to, and I ended up removing the drivers side wheel and popping the wheel well cover off a bit so I could get access. The wires popped right in no problem, and I was able to verify that the other side of the connector had the run and hot wires already populated.
The hardest part was getting the actual signal wires into XY125A under the dashboard. The HK amplifier is mounted in the worst possible spot to get to anything around it. It doesn’t help that the factory leaves all their zip ties cut like razor blades. My hands look like I’ve been fighting with a cat.
I did come up with what I think may be the reason they don’t offer the winch and aux switches from the factory. It’s a terrible reason, but here’s my best guess. They both use the same post on the positive terminal strip. I had to pull the winch connection off and reshape the lug so it would fit on top of the aux switch power. You can’t use any of the other posts as they’re different sized and those two lugs won’t fit over them. It’s a dumb idea, but it makes as much sense as some of the other decisions they make on these things.
Anyway, it took me about 4 hours to trim down the harness to what I needed, an hour to re-tape it cleanly, and about 8 hours to install, with some of the install time being wasted with my failed attempt to go through the clutch block plate. That wasn’t a total waste though, as I’ll use that cable gland for radio antenna wiring.
I did have a huge panic at the end of the project. I hooked the battery back up and the wipers started going; but everything in the truck was dark and non-functional. Thankfully I discovered that I hadn’t latched one of the under dash connectors back together all the way. After correcting that I hooked my air compressor power wire to auxiliary 6 and tested each port. They all work as expected!
All in all it was a lot of work, but worth it for a clean and factory-like install.
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