What's new
By:
Ram Heavy Duty Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

4500 Camper/Jeep Hauler Build

If you don't mind, I have some slide tray questions.
I want to carry our Rad Rover 6+ bikes behind my headache rack like you, but no garage. So how tall is the slide and tray, minus the sides? Also how wide and long? My bike wheel base is 64" to be on the safe side.
I have added pictures. The spare tire would be removed and I know that I would have to drop the handlebars which is why I am asking the height of your tray.
 

Attachments

  • 20240608_103418.jpg
    20240608_103418.jpg
    718.8 KB · Views: 45
  • 20240608_103424.jpg
    20240608_103424.jpg
    627.3 KB · Views: 45
Absolutely. So our slide is from Slide Master, they custom make them to your dimensions. Ours specifically is a M2-D aluminum slide that is dual direction.

slide-master.com

M2-D Dual-Direction Slide - SlideMaster

This dual-direction aluminum slide was built with RV use in mind but is great for any vehicle with a pass-through compartment. > Overall Height with
slide-master.com slide-master.com

The overall height is 5.5" including the side lip, if you subtract that the deck is 3.5" off the surface you mount it to, although the website indicates it may be more like 3".. I'll double check my measurement when I get back out there. The design on their website for the M2-D looks slightly different too, maybe they changed things since I ordered mine.

I specified 76" deep and 23" wide since our bikes fold and they can go end to end vs. side by side. It's a 70% opening slide and I specified lock stops at half way in addition to full open and full closed, and I upgraded to the IMS locking system which is nice. You just push or pull on the red ball handle and it unlocks and slides till the next stop.

IMG_5596.jpeg

IMG_5598.jpeg
 
It was a busy weekend between replacing the front axle U joints on my wife's LJ, getting a new dog settled in and rearranging/cleaning up the shop. But at long last, some fabrication progress.

IMG_6376.jpeg

Nothing too crazy, just making the spacers so the bed sits above the frame rivets. They'll be trimmed to length eventually.

Hopefully tomorrow I can start building a couple of cross members and maybe even start on the side rails.
 
Now we are starting to get somewhere. Two crossbars (rear and second from front) clamped in place along with the side rails.

IMG_6377.jpeg

Everything is just clamped, I need to get things aligned - I can already tell the cab being misaligned from the factory is going to come back and bite me, but I'll just do the best I can.

It's pretty clear I am going to have to make wheel wells due to how low I am making the flatbed.

IMG_6378.jpeg

2" of clearance at roughly ride height. Will probably kick the outer rails up slightly over the wheels. I need to let the air out of the suspension and see how bad it is.
 
gprguy said:
Now we are starting to get somewhere. Two crossbars (rear and second from front) clamped in place along with the side rails.

View attachment 73852

Everything is just clamped, I need to get things aligned - I can already tell the cab being misaligned from the factory is going to come back and bite me, but I'll just do the best I can.

It's pretty clear I am going to have to make wheel wells due to how low I am making the flatbed.

View attachment 73853

2" of clearance at roughly ride height. Will probably kick the outer rails up slightly over the wheels. I need to let the air out of the suspension and see how bad it is.
Click to expand...
Can you empty the suspension on one side with the other side inflated to get some angle on there? I’d assume even that monster will have some flex going over uneven terrain.
 
jsalbre said:
Can you empty the suspension on one side with the other side inflated to get some angle on there? I’d assume even that monster will have some flex going over uneven terrain.
Click to expand...
Not really, unfortunately - I'm going to have to make some educated guesses. The rear sway bar is something like 1 7/8" thick or something ridiculous with the Kelderman, so it doesn't flex in the back without a lot of weight on it. Even then, it'll probably twist the chassis more than flex the axle. Since I don't expect to be regularly wheeling this thing I'm going to drop the bags flat since that will happen on a regular basis and add a little clearance from there. If I ever had to cross a ditch at an angle that might twist it up I could always raise the suspension higher to give me a little extra to start with.

The whole goal with this truck is - unlike many of the 5500's being built with military tires and sprung floating beds - to be 90% a highway cruiser that won't embarrass itself getting in and out of forest roads, BLM roads, primitive campsites at the end of the journey. It'll probably get some Michelin XDS2 tires down the road but I am nearly certain that I will stick with the stock small size, or at best 245's. Nothing crazy.
 
gprguy said:
Not really, unfortunately - I'm going to have to make some educated guesses. The rear sway bar is something like 1 7/8" thick or something ridiculous with the Kelderman, so it doesn't flex in the back without a lot of weight on it. Even then, it'll probably twist the chassis more than flex the axle. Since I don't expect to be regularly wheeling this thing I'm going to drop the bags flat since that will happen on a regular basis and add a little clearance from there. If I ever had to cross a ditch at an angle that might twist it up I could always raise the suspension higher to give me a little extra to start with.

The whole goal with this truck is - unlike many of the 5500's being built with military tires and sprung floating beds - to be 90% a highway cruiser that won't embarrass itself getting in and out of forest roads, BLM roads, primitive campsites at the end of the journey. It'll probably get some Michelin XDS2 tires down the road but I am nearly certain that I will stick with the stock small size, or at best 245's. Nothing crazy.
Click to expand...
That’s not a sway bar, that’s a structural element! I’d say you’re probably safe with the educated guess route.
 
jsalbre said:
That’s not a sway bar, that’s a structural element! I’d say you’re probably safe with the educated guess route.
Click to expand...
You aren't kidding - I looked back through my photos, here's the new one with the stocker sitting next to it. I can't wait to carry the camper and see how stable it is. I had a Hellwig Bigwig on my 3500 and even that was tiny compared to the Kelderman.

IMG_5210.jpeg

Those are probably 2x6 (?) deck boards on that trailer for scale.

Anyway, I let the air out of the rear end last night and worked out a plan that should leave it with just over an inch of clearance when the truck is sitting on the bump stops. Didn't take any pictures yet but I'll post some once I finish modifying the outside rails. It should be seamless in the end, and the deck will even remain flat over the wheels.
 
gprguy said:
Not really, unfortunately - I'm going to have to make some educated guesses. The rear sway bar is something like 1 7/8" thick or something ridiculous with the Kelderman, so it doesn't flex in the back without a lot of weight on it. Even then, it'll probably twist the chassis more than flex the axle. Since I don't expect to be regularly wheeling this thing I'm going to drop the bags flat since that will happen on a regular basis and add a little clearance from there. If I ever had to cross a ditch at an angle that might twist it up I could always raise the suspension higher to give me a little extra to start with.

The whole goal with this truck is - unlike many of the 5500's being built with military tires and sprung floating beds - to be 90% a highway cruiser that won't embarrass itself getting in and out of forest roads, BLM roads, primitive campsites at the end of the journey. It'll probably get some Michelin XDS2 tires down the road but I am nearly certain that I will stick with the stock small size, or at best 245's. Nothing crazy.
Click to expand...

Your flat bed is starting to shape up a little and I am eagerly watching!!!
Truck is Freaking brilliant!

I have been looking hard a 265's instead of just 245's from the stock 225's.
The stock 225's are serious pizza cutters on the HWY.
Find myself fighting road ruts often and it is not fun.
Really want some more tire width to help combat that.

245's are +.7" wider and 1" taller - which is a little more, may be enough to eliminate some of the rut surfing
265s are +1.5" wider and 2.2" taller

Some docs state you should not go 265 on the narrow stock 19.5x6 wheels, but at the same time many are running 265's without issue.
Intend to pull the trigger here in the next couple of months on Liquid Springs, may make the move then.
 
Thanks! And ideally yes, probably 265s would be better. My truck (since I didn't order it) came with 4.10's so I am skeptical if I want to go that tall. I need to load the whole deal with the camper/trailer/Jeeps and see how it does in the mountains.

The Liquid Spring should ride amazing, I saw their system at Overland Expo a couple years ago and it's clean.

Quick progress pic, all of this is just tacked and clamped together.

IMG_6390.jpeg

The aluminum deck between the aluminum crossmembers and then the decking itself will be about 2" thick, so the 1" kick ups for the wheel wells will just disappear.

Need to go do the same for the other side and then do some finish welding.

Edit: Forgot to mention, this is still fully dumped so this is as close as the tires should get unless I manage to overcome that sway bar and twist it up. It has about 1.5" of clearance and normal ride height would be 3.5" or 4".
 
gprguy said:
Now we are starting to get somewhere. Two crossbars (rear and second from front) clamped in place along with the side rails.

View attachment 73852

Everything is just clamped, I need to get things aligned - I can already tell the cab being misaligned from the factory is going to come back and bite me, but I'll just do the best I can.

It's pretty clear I am going to have to make wheel wells due to how low I am making the flatbed.

View attachment 73853

2" of clearance at roughly ride height. Will probably kick the outer rails up slightly over the wheels. I need to let the air out of the suspension and see how bad it is.
Click to expand...
You can shift that cab quite easily with a pry bar with the bolts loose. i take the cabs off all the time and have to shift them when dropping back on frame
 
Yep and I really should have back when I started the box, but didn't want to deal with it at the time. I'm just going to build the bed centered so the camper ends up centered, it'll be what it'll be. It's only 1/4".

End of the day progress shot:

IMG_6394.jpeg

Probably needs a little more clean up, but I may not even bother - all this framework will be hidden eventually. Tomorrow I need to get the driver's side caught up. and then start squaring up the bed so it can be tacked together. Then more crossmembers, brackets, and other fun stuff.
 
gprguy said:
Thanks! And ideally yes, probably 265s would be better. My truck (since I didn't order it) came with 4.10's so I am skeptical if I want to go that tall. I need to load the whole deal with the camper/trailer/Jeeps and see how it does in the mountains.

The Liquid Spring should ride amazing, I saw their system at Overland Expo a couple years ago and it's clean.

Quick progress pic, all of this is just tacked and clamped together.

View attachment 73905

The aluminum deck between the aluminum crossmembers and then the decking itself will be about 2" thick, so the 1" kick ups for the wheel wells will just disappear.

Need to go do the same for the other side and then do some finish welding.

Edit: Forgot to mention, this is still fully dumped so this is as close as the tires should get unless I manage to overcome that sway bar and twist it up. It has about 1.5" of clearance and normal ride height would be 3.5" or 4".
Click to expand...

In the spirit of data and info for helping steer your decisions when you get there, fwiw...

@ 4.10
225 => 245 = 3.96 gear ratio
225 => 265 = 3.83 gear ratio
ref: https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

Not sure where that point is, with the final load, but at some point it'll turn into a dog I agree.
Loosing 3/10th of a turn on 265s.

My guess is she'll run brilliantly where ever you end up!
 
Excellent data points. My original plan was to run 265s on the truck I ordered, but that truck had 4.44s. I don't think 3.83 is enough, but I'm not going to swap the tires until I get a year or two use out of these anyway and get some real world experience.

Of course if I really want those 265s, I could always swap the gears.. But those are not thoughts I need to have right now. :)
 
Brutal_HO said:
One would think you could find an insert to fit just the inside to cover the spindle.

View attachment 67963

Found some but not finding them in black. Maybe keep a can of plastidip on hand... or have them powdercoated.


View attachment 67962

Of a low profile cover

View attachment 67964
Click to expand...
I’m looking for the same thing. I found Kryptonite Wheel Hub Dust Cap but it only fits Chevy and GMC. Trying to find a contact number to inquire. https://kryptoniteproducts.com/products/kryptonite-wheel-hub-dust-cap
 
gprguy said:
Excellent data points. My original plan was to run 265s on the truck I ordered, but that truck had 4.44s. I don't think 3.83 is enough, but I'm not going to swap the tires until I get a year or two use out of these anyway and get some real world experience.

Of course if I really want those 265s, I could always swap the gears.. But those are not thoughts I need to have right now. :)
Click to expand...
Much bigger fish to fry! :p
 
I was making really nice progress today until I ran out of MIG wire. More was supposed to be here already but it's delayed it seems.

I spent at least 2 hours getting the bed squared up and centered (it's only about 1/8" off now due to the cab, plenty close enough), and then started cutting tube. FWIW this is all 3/16" wall except for the 3x2" pieces on the frame in the center section - that's quarter wall.

All of the bars are tacked together at this point, starting at the back. I was working on the inside of the wheel well bars when I ran out of wire. I still have one more normal crossmember to put in (seen below but just clamped) and then the more complicated front cross member.

IMG_6399.jpeg

It's back to close to ride height as well - or maybe 1/2" high. Tons of room in the wheel wells now.

IMG_6400.jpeg

More to come when the delivery person arrives..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top