Toyotaguy
Active Member
I think I need to try and test it again but plug off the Crank case vent this time.
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Regens at alarming rate!
- Thread starter NVYCHF
- Start date
CaptainMike
Well-Known Member
Okay, I'm cautiously optimistic that my regen issues is fixed. The techs did an intake system leak test and found an air leak at the charge air cooler duct (item #3 in the attached diagram). They discovered that the tension clamp (item #16 in the diagram) was missing so they replaced the entire tube and got the proper clamps.
I had one full regen within the first hour of driving, but it's over 5 hours now without one (longest it went before was 2.5 hrs) and I'm seeing passive regens where I wasn't seeing any previously. The DPF gauge in the EVIC screen floats between 25 - 40%. I'll update again in a few days
I had one full regen within the first hour of driving, but it's over 5 hours now without one (longest it went before was 2.5 hrs) and I'm seeing passive regens where I wasn't seeing any previously. The DPF gauge in the EVIC screen floats between 25 - 40%. I'll update again in a few days
A charge air leak will definitely impact engine performance and regeneration as well. Hopefully that’s all it was.
I was surprised to see my DPF gauge only go from 25% down to 10% pulling my 5th wheel out to a friend's shop ~32 miles. It usually clears as much as 40-50% after about 20 miles of towing as it's hilly here once we get out of town. Even more surprising was it did a passive regen on the way home on a couple slow 2-lane roads that cleared the 10% down to 0.
Sorry you guys are having issues, but hopefully they all get resolved - air filters, boost leaks, and probably also a little code update.
Sorry you guys are having issues, but hopefully they all get resolved - air filters, boost leaks, and probably also a little code update.
I’ve yet to be able to acquire any sort of specific documentation or information on how that gauge operates. It’s done some incredibly peculiar things on my 2022 that left me dumbfounded. Sometimes it’ll show a reduction in soot in situations where I highly doubt passive regeneration has occurred. Other times it’ll shoot up quickly after driving in situations where I fully expected passive regen to have been taking place. It would be interesting to know how often that information is updated, or if it’s a live reading, as well as what data contributes to the percentage shown? Is it solely based on differential pressure readings? Is there an estimate built into its logic? Does historical data play a role? I’ve asked countless sources and got nothing but crickets and an occasional hypothesis. Nothing concrete though.
Yea, TBH I don't actively monitor or log any data since my truck has never given me any problems.
I don’t blame you. I wouldn’t either normally. Unfortunately these 2022’s (or a nice chunk of them) seem to be having issues more readily than previous years. I started logging data in order to be proactive and just have a healthy baseline on what “normal” looked like for my truck. I never imagined I’d have to deal with regeneration issues in less than two years of ownership
Toyotaguy
Active Member
I wish I would have monitored mine a little more closely before I started having issues. 110k miles trouble free kinda lulled me into a false sense of security.
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It’s handy to have this kind of data to go from. Here’s my latest update on my regeneration cycles. I’ve been seeing an upswing in performance. The red line Indicates when I stopped using Hotshots EDT and switched where I buy my fuel.
CaptainMike
Well-Known Member
One more thing I've noticed is that my calculated fuel usage has ticked up a couple of mpg's. I guess not doing a regen every 2 engine hours really helps with fuel economy.
Absolutely. Constant regeneration will kill your fuel economy (and put your engine at a significantly higher risk for fuel dilution in the oil). All that extra fuel shot into the exhaust is used to make heat, not push the truck forward so it’s a real drag on efficiency.
OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
I noticed my truck showed significantly better mileage on the EVIC after my last automatic regen after starting with the DPF gauge on zero but 24 hours since the last one. The gauge had gone up just barely off of zero when we headed out on a 160 mile one way trip and about 40-50 miles into the trip it went back to zero and is still there. That was the 2nd regen after I installed the new AF27684 FG air filter. 1003 miles since the last one but more highway miles.
flan
Well-Known Member
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For that clamp to be completely missing is mind boggling. Your engine would have close to zero boost from the turbocharger and should of run like a complete dog. For one to be loose from a CP4.2 recall truck is somewhat understandable. I don’t think yours fits into that category.
OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
That’s one of the things I check on my truck every time the hood is raised.
CaptainMike
Well-Known Member
It ran fine, but that's what he said and he's a pretty good mechanic. And I routinely peg the boost hitting the highway, especially towing. I guess it was just a thang.
flan
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Possibly something was miscommunicated. I’ve had a boot slip out from under a clamp and basically your naturally aspirated at that point. The boot usually comes off from where it’s supposed to be clamped to, if somehow it stays most air from the turbocharger still ends up venting to the atmosphere.
CaptainMike
Well-Known Member
I'll drop by next week and confirm. What you're saying makes sense because something similar happened to my wife's old Ford Excursion with a 6.0.
Great, now you jinxed me.
That said, this truck will never likely see 100K while I'm still alive. 16 years on the last one, sold it @72K. Currently at just over 15K in 43 months.
OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
When you do this, you cap the boost tube at the turbo and cap the boost tube on the other side where it hooks to the intake. Then pressurize the boost tubes and the intercooler. It will never make pressure going through the turbo. And the CCV being connected to the turbo just puts all of air you put in, go into the crankcase. Hope you didn’t blow some seals out.
In the parts diagram @CaptainMike posted, you want to cap it at #16 and #17 and see if it will hold pressure. If not then break out the soapy water to locate the leak.
I would not put more than 20-30 pounds of air to it and then with that regulated and going through a dryer.
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