Front end shimmy when braking while towing

[Rgpracer]

Out on vacation and towing my 5th wheel. Went over Wolf pass in CO and on our descent, noticed that I get a front end shimmy while braking going down the hill. Sometimes the shimmy get "fairly" violent.
I use the engine brake in "auto" and no issue. I've changed trailer brake pressure, and no change.
Question.....does the front axle on our Ram 2500 4 wheel dr need a stabilizer shock? Will it help?
If not......what can I look at to help this shimmy.

Truck has 54k mileage, good tires, bed/pin weight is under max pay load.

Thanks all
Ray

 

[SargeW]

If this just started I doubt a stabilizer would fix it. It may mask a problem for a little while but it would just come back, maybe worse. I would look at wheel balance first, then possibly worn shocks. Front end bushings could be worn, but your mileage is not that high, so probably not. So start with the most inexpensive stuff first. Get the front tires spin balanced, and have the alignment checked.

 

[Rgpracer]

If this just started I doubt a stabilizer would fix it. It may mask a problem for a little while but it would just come back, maybe worse. I would look at wheel balance first, then possibly worn shocks. Front end bushings could be worn, but your mileage is not that high, so probably not. So start with the most inexpensive stuff first. Get the front tires spin balanced, and have the alignment checked.

Thanks Sarge and thanks for your service.
I was planning on balance first, maybe check balance but can't see that or shocks being an issue.
I've been building race cars for a long time, understand front ends, just wasn't sure about Ram 4x4 specific issues.
Thanks again.
Ray

 

[nickgbp]

death wobble

is any body else with a 2019 3500 with 6.7 cummins getting a deth wobble, our truck has less the 12,000 miles on it and when driven on a long curve if you hit any kind of bump or small pot hole the steering wheel takes off , had it back to the dealer and they said they cant find anything wrong

hdrams.com

Over heated/warped rotors will shimmy (brakes on trailer not doing their share, making truck do more work)

Loose track bar bushings will also cause a shimmy, had same thing happen to my Wrangler ...a new track bar cured the issue.

 

[Rgpracer]

death wobble

is any body else with a 2019 3500 with 6.7 cummins getting a deth wobble, our truck has less the 12,000 miles on it and when driven on a long curve if you hit any kind of bump or small pot hole the steering wheel takes off , had it back to the dealer and they said they cant find anything wrong

hdrams.com

Over heated/warped rotors will shimmy (brakes on trailer not doing their share, making truck do more work)

Loose track bar bushings will also cause a shimmy, had same thing happen to my Wrangler ...a new track bar cured the issue.

Thanks Nick....was considering rotors, but thinking I would feel it WITHOUT camper, but no indication. Adjusted camper brakes between 5 and 8, no change.
This is my first Ram, so no experience with solid front axle.45k mileage.....can't imagine track bar but will look when I get home.
Thanks Sir.

 

[Brutal_HO]

death wobble

is any body else with a 2019 3500 with 6.7 cummins getting a deth wobble, our truck has less the 12,000 miles on it and when driven on a long curve if you hit any kind of bump or small pot hole the steering wheel takes off , had it back to the dealer and they said they cant find anything wrong

hdrams.com

Over heated/warped rotors will shimmy (brakes on trailer not doing their share, making truck do more work)

Loose track bar bushings will also cause a shimmy, had same thing happen to my Wrangler ...a new track bar cured the issue.

Thanks Nick....was considering rotors, but thinking I would feel it WITHOUT camper, but no indication. Adjusted camper brakes between 5 and 8, no change.
This is my first Ram, so no experience with solid front axle.45k mileage.....can't imagine track bar but will look when I get home.
Thanks Sir.

I may be preaching to the choir but...

Shouldn't really be needing (or want to) brake much descending Wolf Creek Pass (or any mountain pass/large hill.) That's what the exhaust brake is for in a diesel and running a lower gear in both diesel and gas. Keep the RPM's up and the gears low.

That said, if you do need to apply brakes, use the stab method to scrub more speed than needed. Brake hard to reduce speed and then get off them. As the speed creeps back up where you need to slow again, give them another stab. This allows the brakes to cool between cycles and is the correct way to use brakes (if needed) in mountain driving. Dragging your brakes down a hill is a surefire way to smoke them and lose all braking power.

 

[Rgpracer]

I may be preaching to the choir but...

Shouldn't really be needing (or want to) brake much descending Wolf Creek Pass (or any mountain pass/large hill.) That's what the exhaust brake is for in a diesel and running a lower gear in both diesel and gas. Keep the RPM's up and the gears low.

That said, if you do need to apply brakes, use the stab method to scrub more speed than needed. Brake hard to reduce speed and then get off them. As the speed creeps back up where you need to slow again, give them another stab. This allows the brakes to cool between cycles and is the correct way to use brakes (if needed) in mountain driving. Dragging your brakes down a hill is a surefire way to smoke them and lose all braking power.

You are 100% correct on how you apply the brakes when needed. I use mine as you stated, but there ARE those times when brakes are used. All that being said, don't "think" I am too hard or using them too much, so, brake issue still stands.

Thanks for your time Sir.
Happy 4th.
Ray

 

[SargeW]

I only mention shocks because a worn shock will allow the tire to "bounce" and show cupping after a while. It can become more pronounced with a lot of weight on the rear axle. Have you been across a CAT scale to check the weight on the front axle with and without the trailer on?

 

[Rgpracer]

I only mention shocks because a worn shock will allow the tire to "bounce" and show cupping after a while. It can become more pronounced with a lot of weight on the rear axle. Have you been across a CAT scale to check the weight on the front axle with and without the trailer on?

I want to put Bilsteins on it and get rid of OEM shocks anyway....OEM provides quite a harsh ride.
Might be the time to possibly kill two birds with one stone.
No, have NOT gone across scales in a while.

 

[SargeW]

You might consider Koni as well. I put them on several motor homes and they made a world of difference.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Looks like everyone has mentioned the normal culprits.
A wheel out of balance woukd also give you the shimmy at 49 to 54 MPH. Then go away.
Warpped rotors would be my first look.

 

[Brutal_HO]

I want to put Bilsteins on it and get rid of OEM shocks anyway....OEM provides quite a harsh ride.
Might be the time to possibly kill two birds with one stone.
No, have NOT gone across scales in a while.

There's a bunch of shock threads of course, but for us plebes, Bilstein 4600 are equivalent to factory, 5100 are much sportier but good for towing. I put 5100 on my truck and it certainly firmed up the ride from stock, which wasn't what i would consider harsh for a 3500 with leaves and air bags.

My RR OEM shock blew chunks at 10K.

 

[Rgpracer]

Looks like everyone has mentioned the normal culprits.
A wheel out of balance woukd also give you the shimmy at 49 to 54 MPH. Then go away.
Warpped rotors would be my first look.

Thanks Shellback, but I believe warped rotors would show up pulling or not.

 

[Aketay]

I vote for the rotors, have smoked a few because trailer brakes did not work due to a variety of issues. The track bars on these trucks are over engineered from previous years. I should’ve replaced mine at 410,000 miles, but it lasted another 4,000 miles. The shocks from the factory excluding the Bilstiens are pretty well wasted before 20,000 miles.

 

[Rgpracer]

I vote for the rotors, have smoked a few because trailer brakes did not work due to a variety of issues. The track bars on these trucks are over engineered from previous years. I should’ve replaced mine at 410,000 miles, but it lasted another 4,000 miles. The shocks from the factory excluding the Bilstiens are pretty well wasted before 20,000 miles.

Thanks Aketay, I will have them turned and add Bilstein 4600's...."I should have replaced mine at 410,000 miles".....replaced what?

 

[BikePilot]

I know experiences vary widely, but I would still take a close look at the track bar bushings. They are pretty soft rubber bushings. A Thuren or Carli track bar has a lot less give in it.

 

[jetrinka]

If it only happens when braking, it's the brake rotors. Nothing else. If it shakes the steering wheel its on the front axle. If the steering wheel is still but the whole truck shakes then its the rear axle. When you fix it do yourself a favor and replace the rotors - if you have them resurfaced its just going to happen again in short order.

I'd also be checking the brakes out on that trailer of yours to ensure they're working right.

 

[Rgpracer]

If it only happens when braking, it's the brake rotors. Nothing else. If it shakes the steering wheel its on the front axle. If the steering wheel is still but the whole truck shakes then its the rear axle. When you fix it do yourself a favor and replace the rotors - if you have them resurfaced its just going to happen again in short order.

I'd also be checking the brakes out on that trailer of yours to ensure they're working right.

All true and correct.....it's not as much the front steering wheel as it is the truck.
Hard to believe in 45k that the rotors can be warped but, anything is possible. 5th wheel camper is a 2022, "shouldn't" be brake problems with it, but again.....anything is possible.
Rotors/pads are an easy fix.
Thanks Sir
Happy 4th
Ray

 

[jetrinka]

All true and correct.....it's not as much the front steering wheel as it is the truck.
Hard to believe in 45k that the rotors can be warped but, anything is possible. 5th wheel camper is a 2022, "shouldn't" be brake problems with it, but again.....anything is possible.
Rotors/pads are an easy fix.
Thanks Sir
Happy 4th
Ray

I have three trailers.

-5x10 single axle utility trailer
-small boat trailer for a 14’ aluminum boat
-5500 gross TT - single axle

All bought brand new. All 3 I went through and had to fix various things. The boat trailer and utility trailer had minimal grease in the bearings and were not adjusted properly. The TT had one bearing that was super loose. I’ve yet to check the brakes on the TT because I’ve been lazy and it drags the truck pretty good when I activate the brakes manually. Next project is fix the horrible wiring to the batteries the dealer installed….. The cable ends are hardly even crimped…. Gonna make new ones

You get my point. Nobody does it right unless you do it yourself

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

All true and correct.....it's not as much the front steering wheel as it is the truck.
Hard to believe in 45k that the rotors can be warped but, anything is possible. 5th wheel camper is a 2022, "shouldn't" be brake problems with it, but again.....anything is possible.
Rotors/pads are an easy fix.
Thanks Sir
Happy 4th
Ray

I have never seen a dexter trailer axle that was setup 100% from the factory weather its the brakes or the bearings or wiring they all need some adjustment