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Towing Sway

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Ramtop

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Not sure wether to post here or in suspension. We headed out for our first camping trip of the year with our 5th wheeler this weekend. I have a 2019 Ram 2500 4x4 6.4L with 37,000 miles on it. We bought it used a year ago with 32,000 miles. The previous owner had put 2.5" leveling blocks in the front but retained the stock springs and shocks. Pulled the 5ther fine last year. This time, up on the interstate, which the surface has a lot of wheel grooves and wind, the truck would get into a lot of sway to the point that we would have to slow down to get out of it a couple of times. I am thinking that we need to do something preventatively before heading out again. Everything on the truck is original stock except for the leveling blocks in the front. I am trying to figure out what to start with for upgrades. What would be the biggest help, with least amount of money. Considering new shocks, adding airbags (like the Timbergrove ones), adding shocks on the camper suspension in case it is starting it, upgrading the rear sway bar and possibly anything else that is suggested. It doesn't do it when road surface is smooth, but when the surface is rough it starts. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Ramtop said:
Not sure wether to post here or in suspension. We headed out for our first camping trip of the year with our 5th wheeler this weekend. I have a 2019 Ram 2500 4x4 6.4L with 37,000 miles on it. We bought it used a year ago with 32,000 miles. The previous owner had put 2.5" leveling blocks in the front but retained the stock springs and shocks. Pulled the 5ther fine last year. This time, up on the interstate, which the surface has a lot of wheel grooves and wind, the truck would get into a lot of sway to the point that we would have to slow down to get out of it a couple of times. I am thinking that we need to do something preventatively before heading out again. Everything on the truck is original stock except for the leveling blocks in the front. I am trying to figure out what to start with for upgrades. What would be the biggest help, with least amount of money. Considering new shocks, adding airbags (like the Timbergrove ones), adding shocks on the camper suspension in case it is starting it, upgrading the rear sway bar and possibly anything else that is suggested. It doesn't do it when road surface is smooth, but when the surface is rough it starts. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Click to expand...
Air bags are the trick For the 2500s because of the narrow spring Placement
 
Also upgrade the rear track bar to the Thuren track bar, it helped tremendously

Sent from my SM-S916U using Tapatalk
 
I had the same issue towing a 6K bumper pull.

Everything worked fine on roads in the states, but as soon as I got on the freeways in Baja, I'd get the trailer sway at times.
First trip down with the trailer, I had no issues.
last 2 times down, I got the sway.

From my research, it could be associated with tire pressure being low.
I remember I had aired up the first time I towed, but forgot to air up some on the other trips.
Another option was the Thuren rear track bar. Watching a few videos on youtube from CJC offroad, it looks like a good fix.
 
I’ve had the trailer away as well with my 5er. Wish I had ordered a 3500. Anyway I have airbags, also truck is on 35’s with 18” wheels. Probably didn’t air the tires up enough. Any recommendations on what psi to run front and rear for towing ? 285/75/R18 Nitto ridge grapplers.
 
I had run mine at 50 PSI on my PW with BFG 35's when I didn't have the sway issue. If you are running a diesel, then 60 is probably better.

But I think it's more of a try and see type of thing. At 50 PSI, its way above the weight of my truck with the trailer.

With no load, I am currently running 35/30 PSI and am seeing the best wear pattern. When I was running 40/35, the front tire were only wearing in the center.
 
Part of the issue is I have an older 5er and had to roll the axle and raise the camper for clearance with the new truck.

Wonder if anyone has tried the Sumo helper springs ?

Think I’ll run 50 front and 60 rear on a short trip coming up and see how that is. After that it will be the Thuren rear track bar. Thanks for the input
 
Jnrcarson said:
I’ve had the trailer away as well with my 5er. Wish I had ordered a 3500. Anyway I have airbags, also truck is on 35’s with 18” wheels. Probably didn’t air the tires up enough. Any recommendations on what psi to run front and rear for towing ? 285/75/R18 Nitto ridge grapplers.
Click to expand...

I'd contact them for their Load/Inflation tables...
 
Jnrcarson said:
Part of the issue is I have an older 5er and had to roll the axle and raise the camper for clearance with the new truck.

Wonder if anyone has tried the Sumo helper springs ?

Think I’ll run 50 front and 60 rear on a short trip coming up and see how that is. After that it will be the Thuren rear track bar. Thanks for the input
Click to expand...
Sumo springs on the trailer were a great addition for me... Timbren on the truck.

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Jnrcarson said:
Part of the issue is I have an older 5er and had to roll the axle and raise the camper for clearance with the new truck.

Wonder if anyone has tried the Sumo helper springs ?

Think I’ll run 50 front and 60 rear on a short trip coming up and see how that is. After that it will be the Thuren rear track bar. Thanks for the input
Click to expand...
Check out toyo inflation charts. Also my camper is a 97 jayco designer i also had to flip the axles i used custom perches to add an aditional 1” of lift so 6-1/4” in total lift. I have no sway issues.

Did you weld new perches on the axles or are they upside down? If upside down that can cause all kinds of issues towing
 
Check out toyo inflation charts. Also my camper is a 97 jayco designer i also had to flip the axles i used custom perches to add an aditional 1” of lift so 6-1/4” in total lift. I have no sway issues.
H3LZSN1P3R said:
Did you weld new perches on the axles or are they upside down? If upside down that can cause all kinds of issues towing
Click to expand...
Yes welded new perches and reinforced the hangers as I had one that had broken previously. Also, called Nitto and they took all my specs and them got back to me. Said run 50 psi front and rear when loaded. Can go up 5-10 psi if needed. So no help from them. Going to run 60 in the rear and a little more in the bags this next tow and see what happens.
 
Gondul said:
I'd contact them for their Load/Inflation tables...
Click to expand...

That info will be plastered on the outside of the tire.

When towing, it's a good idea to inflate to max psi... especially on the 2500's.

if the truck has load range E tires, max psi will be 80.
 
gimmie11s said:
That info will be plastered on the outside of the tire.

When towing, it's a good idea to inflate to max psi... especially on the 2500's.

if the truck has load range E tires, max psi will be 80.
Click to expand...

Max load and max pressure is on the sidewall, not proper pressure for the load. Max pressure is never better than proper pressure.

Load is what matters for tire pressure, that’s it. You’ll notice manufactures don’t have separate tables for towing vs not towing.

Not all LRE tires are 80 psi rates, but most are.
 
If I go to the tire inflation charts for the BFG tires I have on my truck, at the axle weights for my truck, I should be running around 25 PSI.
If I run the max PSI that is on the tire, I should be carrying a whole lot more weight than my truck is rated for.
MAX PSI/weight is about 3500lbs. So times 4 that's 14K lbs.
My truck weighs just over 7K lbs. So I would need to have 7K lbs of weight combined between my truck bed and tounge weight. The truck is not rated for that. ;)
 
gimmie11s said:
That info will be plastered on the outside of the tire.

When towing, it's a good idea to inflate to max psi... especially on the 2500's.

if the truck has load range E tires, max psi will be 80.
Click to expand...
Thats a great way to wear the tire centers out. Load charts are much better to go by or if stock size go the pressure listed on the tire placecard if you are maxed out which will be 60 front and rear as that will be for max axle weights on a 2500

why does it matter if its a 2500 or a SRW 3500 the tires are rated for the same load?…
 
AH64ID said:
Max load and max pressure is on the sidewall, not proper pressure for the load. Max pressure is never better than proper pressure.

Load is what matters for tire pressure, that’s it. You’ll notice manufactures don’t have separate tables for towing vs not towing.

Not all LRE tires are 80 psi rates, but most are.
Click to expand...


Right... . Because everyone drives to the local CAT scale before inflating their rear tires each time they tow a load.

I stand by my comments... go max or near max PSI if you are going on a towing trip with any sort of real load.
 
H3LZSN1P3R said:
Thats a great way to wear the tire centers out. Load charts are much better to go by or if stock size go the pressure listed on the tire placecard if you are maxed out which will be 60 front and rear as that will be for max axle weights on a 2500

why does it matter if its a 2500 or a SRW 3500 the tires are rated for the same load?…
Click to expand...

I'll agree with that for the guy that tows A LOT (like you).

For the recreational/summer vaca type of tower, go max or near max psi and call a day.
 
gimmie11s said:
Right... . Because everyone drives to the local CAT scale before inflating their rear tires each time they tow a load.

I stand by my comments... go max or near max PSI if you are going on a towing trip with any sort of real load.
Click to expand...

While overinflated is far better than underinflated your answer/suggestion is just lazy.

I’ve weighed my trucks dozens of times, and never once did I go to a cat scale or pay for weight. It’s easy to find open weigh stations along your route.

My 31’ 5th is a real load and requires nowhere near max tire pressure.

Don’t suggest lazy, suggest accurate.
 
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