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Post Pics of your 2019+ 2500 or 3500!

.genomer said:
That's awesome to know! Still haven't been able to get off pavement with them. Soon!
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That was on-pavement hot rodding.

I only ran up a mile or so on gravel and it was not so twisty and a 20MPH limit. County road, but dense rural residential.
 
dkenney said:
Have you received the sliders yet? I want to get some and was looking at these. If so, can you post some pictures? Thanks
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Here are some pics:
wESRjXfh.jpg

vY6WnTSh.jpg
 
Awesome looking trucks in here!
I almost hate to ask, but how bad of an idea would a small spacer be on factory wheels? I like my wheels, but they are tucked in pretty tight and I would like to have them out just a little so they are more flush. I will be going to 35/12.5 tires when these wear out so that may take care of it then. Thoughts?
The silver truck is mine and the white truck is one local on 37's and running spacers on the wheels I think.
20200429_183458.jpgScreenshot_20200415-211452_Facebook.jpg
 
stillzaddy said:
Wheel spacers are completely safe AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SPACER FOR YOUR TRUCK (correct hub bore and torque value) and have them professionally and correctly installed and warrantied. I personally don’t like them but everyone has their different likes and dislikes. If I could have ran my 37’s on my OEM 18” wheels safely I would have but I could not so aftermarket Method’s were a must. 35x12.5 will fit on OEM trucks and still have a little meat outside the fender well (depending on your Trim level) if that is what you’re wanting (I don’t know how much out hang you’re looking for).
545887e36941bffded287ecc9ff30c9d.plist

This is my truck on 18” wheels with a +18mm offset on a 12.5 tire. Still has a decent amount of over hang pass the fender well and Laramie fenders as well.

Hope this helps and gives you a rough visual on how much wider and over hang you’re looking for.


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I'm only looking for "flush" with the outside edge of the tire/wheel even with the fenders. Yours is great. Is the rear of yours the same as the front?
 
stillzaddy said:
Same as the front in height? No. My truck is OEM suspension so I still have the OEM rake (higher in the rear than the front). You may want to see what 35x12.5 look like before the wheel spacer. That extra inch from 11.6 to 12.5 may bring you flush or pretty close to it give or take a mm.


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Planning on waiting to check the fit as the tire width will make a difference. I read that yours was factory raked, but what I wondered was if your rear wheels sit as flush as the front. The rears seem to be a little more inboard on these trucks. Wider body lines in the back I think...
 
Speedracer93CobraR said:
Planning on waiting to check the fit as the tire width will make a difference. I read that yours was factory raked, but what I wondered was if your rear wheels sit as flush as the front. The rears seem to be a little more inboard on these trucks. Wider body lines in the back I think...
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I've found this to be one of the most accurate tire fitment guides. It doesn't account for radius arm rub, but will get you damn close on everything else as long as you feed it good inputs. I used on on my car for different wheels/tires and it was dead nuts on.

Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

Tire Tech Information - The Wheel Fitment, Tyre Stretch, Rolling Radius and Speedometer Error Calculator. Play with specs, try different settings, compare results
www.wheel-size.com www.wheel-size.com


If you want to play around with tire sizes and gears/RPM's/shift points, this one is pretty good: https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx
 
stillzaddy said:
I’ve got to swap my rear end next weekend myself my poor transmission is working OT with the 37’s.


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No doubt.

There's also a detailed worksheet that will show RPM's and speed in every gear, tire sizes input, etc. but I can't upload it here.
 
stillzaddy said:
Sorry I didn’t get back to you last night, came home and showered and was out by 8pm. With that being said;

92bee04d4699dc51fd1ec2fe1536c2d3.jpg

The 37x12.5 or just the 12.5 measurement we’re concerned about; the only bit that sticks out is the aggressive side wall and shoulder of these Ridge Grapplers. The front and rear are identical down to not even half an 1/8”. So that concave dirty part and the side wall in the photo above are the only parts of the tire that stick out past the Laramie fenders.

I hope that answers your questions and gives you an idea of how much of a spacer you’ll need.


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Stillzaddy you mentioned that you couldn’t put the 37” nittos on the stock wheels for it to be safe so you essentially had to purchase the methods. Why? Slapping 37s on the stock 20s was actually my plan (with similar trimming to what you did) so would appreciate your insight. Thanks man.
 
HD5280 said:
Do the fender flares just install with no drilling? Will you have to paint match them? I’m interested in doing the same.
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The flares install using the existing screws that hold the fender liners in place, and you do have to remove the trim pieces in the pic. My plan is to try to trim the rear ones to fit, but if that doesn’t work out, I am ok with that. With my truck being black, I like the idea of a little contrast so I don’t think I will paint them as long as it looks good. I also ordered the black stainless bolts to replace the stainless steel bolts that come with them for a cleaner look...
6B6E6ED7-24D6-43E6-9E61-580FF43415E8.jpeg
 
stillzaddy said:
Did you remove the Laramie fenders? Is that what I’m looking at?


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Mine is a Big Horn. I would have liked the factory Laramie flares, but they won’t work. I guess the Laramie fenders have holes from the factory for the flares to attach in to...
 
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