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2019 Truck cap/topper/camper shell thread

woody284 said:
So I found a Leer 100 XR cap locally. Seems The FLW got a better sponsorship from ARE and they are ditching all there Leer tops. The guy I bought from is selling it for 450, so he must have gotten a deal. He bought 11 of them to resale. My question is they just cut the wires. Should there be a wiring harness to buy with a fuse block or just straight wire it?
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Do you just have a third brake light on your topper? Or do you have interior lighting and all that?

on my ARE I asked them not to wire it so I could do it myself. It was just two wires hanging inside the top for the third brake light.

if it has interior lighting, I would just add it to the bed lighting circuit.
 
Rockcrawlerdude said:
Do you just have a third brake light on your topper? Or do you have interior lighting and all that?

on my ARE I asked them not to wire it so I could do it myself. It was just two wires hanging inside the top for the third brake light.

if it has interior lighting, I would just add it to the bed lighting circuit.
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It has the interior dome light right above the back window and third brake light. I think there are three wires in all. Did you use the wire under the spare? If I read all that correct. I’m going to look silly for a few weeks since the topper is white on my black truck. I want to just make sure I like it before I have it painted.
 
woody284 said:
It has the interior dome light right above the back window and third brake light. I think there are three wires in all. Did you use the wire under the spare? If I read all that correct. I’m going to look silly for a few weeks since the topper is white on my black truck. I want to just make sure I like it before I have it painted.
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I only had two wires for the brake light but I did wire them to the wire under the bed
 
I extended the under the bed/above the spare wire up to where my installer just connected it to the 3rd brake light on the canopy. They tried twice to tie the interior LED canopy light to the existing bed led lights but they said it was too much for that circuit. Surprised Ram cut it that close on the capacity of the bed light circuit. Anyway, they ended up wiring the interior canopy light to something else, (I have not looked at what), and if I need to use it, I just will use the switch on the light.
 
For the third brake light I ran the wire (wht/prp) up into the cap and used wire loom to cover it. For the ground, I have a big dedicated ground on the rear of the truck for all of my rear lighting.

I added more LEDs to the bed light circuit and switch.
The LEDs I used only draw 200mA each, so I’m not concerned with overloading the circuit with less than half an amp draw.
As always, YMMV
 
Rockcrawlerdude said:
For the third brake light I ran the wire (wht/prp) up into the cap and used wire loom to cover it. For the ground, I have a big dedicated ground on the rear of the truck for all of my rear lighting.

I added more LEDs to the bed light circuit and switch.
The LEDs I used only draw 200mA each, so I’m not concerned with overloading the circuit with less than half an amp draw.
As always, YMMV
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I added two strips of LEDs and tied them into the cargo light circuit as well... all's good so far.
 
Rockcrawlerdude said:
For the third brake light I ran the wire (wht/prp) up into the cap and used wire loom to cover it. For the ground, I have a big dedicated ground on the rear of the truck for all of my rear lighting.

I added more LEDs to the bed light circuit and switch.
The LEDs I used only draw 200mA each, so I’m not concerned with overloading the circuit with less than half an amp draw.
As always, YMMV
Click to expand...
YMMV? Never encountered the abbreviation, so I had to Google it. At first I was suspecting that it was a code word for Critical Race Theory. Lol.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
What’s everyone have rigged up if anything to lift it off and store. I’ll have to take mine off at least two times a year to move my fifth wheel. Some lifts are $$$$ but was thinking of rigging something with 2x4s and maybe two kayak hoist like this. 57AAD3D9-26E3-4EDB-9F63-DDD9F733C0D0.pngD53EDB6B-EC0F-462F-BBA6-3B8356717BA7.png
 
woody284 said:
What’s everyone have rigged up if anything to lift it off and store. I’ll have to take mine off at least two times a year to move my fifth wheel. Some lifts are $$$$ but was thinking of rigging something with 2x4s and maybe two kayak hoist like this. View attachment 20489View attachment 20490
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My truck doesn’t fit in my garage so I can’t help you there. My topper weighs a good bit more than 125lb I can tell you that. I’d look for a jeep top hoist for a garage or even a hoist cart.
 
Rockcrawlerdude said:
My truck doesn’t fit in my garage so I can’t help you there. My topper weighs a good bit more than 125lb I can tell you that. I’d look for a jeep top hoist for a garage or even a hoist cart.
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I was thinking of using two of them so 250 lb combined. I’m not real sure what the total weight is. Good point on the jeep top hoist.
 
Can somome with an ARE V-series, and someone with an ARE MX measure:
A) Vertical clearance at door (bed floor to hinges)
B) Vertical Max interior height (bed floor to roof)

i just ordered an ARE V-series but I’m having second thoughts about not getting the MX. Probably early enough I could change the order if I want.

My main functional reason for sticking with a cab-high is this truck(power wagon on 35s) is already tall enough and having the extra height might be an issue with parking garages and catch even more branches offroad, I think the cab-high will be fine for my normal uses. My non-functional reasons for ordering the cab-high is the cost($300 less) and I like the look a bit better.
 
I don't have the max height handy, but I had measured the opening for someone else previously on my MX.

From the bed to the bottom edge of the topper (hinge) is 41" (I have a bedrug so without it, you may get another ~3/8")
That height is consistent for 42" side to side before it begins to taper downward for the curvature of the window.

I'd guess another ~5" for max height, but can check that for sure in a couple of hours.
 
Thank you @LateToTheParty

Rockcrawlerdude said:
I believe my overlander is based on the V series. If no one chimes in with a real V, I can measure mine for you.
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yeah, that would be great. Best I can tell(from description and pictures) the V, CX, and Overlander are pretty much the same... Overlander has the LineX, CX has recessed windows (and slightly longer?)... ARE don’t really do a good job of pointing out the differences.

anyways they should be pretty comperable dimensionally.
 
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Shortest vertical measurement at the hinge, center of width, with a rubber bed mat, is 38-3/8”

max interior height in center of bed, centered between wheel wells, with bed mat, is 41-3/4”
 
Thanks!
i think I will stick with the V series. I’m sure there will be times the extra height of the MX would be nice, but I think the V will work fine 99% of the time for me!
 
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