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Wiring Reverse Lights and Using Auxiliary Switch(es)

Because when you have the factory aux switches, there’s no reason to have to run any wire out of the engine bay to the rear of the truck, since wires are already there. It would be a wasted effort.
Crap…. Wish I had known that a few months ago…
 
I just needed the addition of your clearly stated instructions to add to what I've learned today. The muddy waters have cleared. Thanks again.

Looking at your drawing wouldn't you need to have it jump light gray 4 to dark gray 2 to get it to work on Aux 2 switch as he wants it.

You have it going to jump light gray 4 to dark gray 1 for Aux 2 but in the diagram that's Aux 1.
@Jeff1759, just making sure you saw this post correcting that you would jump light gray #4 to dark gray #2 (instead of 1) for the aux 2 switch.
 
Just a reminder that the 21+ trucks picked up four (4) more pass-thru circuits.

One additional in the grey upfitter jumper D2621A (W550 pin 2 BG/GY) on 19-20 trucks, and 3 more the are also blunt cut and taped up by the AUX PDC connectors and terminate in D2433A (white port upfitter) near the BCM.

Info is in my linked post #8 above.
 
I just received my Baja designs reverse lights. Can anyone tell me how to wire them to aux switch and also have them come on when in reverse?
 
I just received my Baja designs reverse lights. Can anyone tell me how to wire them to aux switch and also have them come on when in reverse?
If you read through the previous posts you will find your answer
 
Thanks on the guidance from @Jimmy07 on wiring the power lead from the BD Design light wiring harness to A500 RD/WH wire. I got under my truck and found A500 and F606 on my 2022 between the spare tire and hitch coming out of the main rear harness.

I opened up the BD box and removed the wiring harness, All I did was remove the wire tap on the white wire and stripped it and soldered it to A500 for my power and the ground wire in the BD harness worked out just fine going to the same area that BD uses. I mounted up both lights and reinstalled the spare. Now all I have to do is change the jumper for under the dash and jumper the Aux connectors for the pass through.

I wanted to wire my BD Design rear backup lights to and aux switch only, this is why I did it this way. Is there a reason everyone is going with Aux 2 rather than one of the other Aux switches?
 

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This is your route to get the reverse lights on aux switch 2 using the rear red/white wire. On the accessory bag connector with two jumpers, move the jumper from position 3 to position 5. On the two aux connectors at the PDC, jump light gray 4 to dark gray 1.
View attachment 26663
I'm getting ready to tackle adding some reverse lights to my truck. @Jimmy07 This is extremely helpful, but I have one question. Would wiring this way result in the blunt cut PK/OG wire at the rear having power once the ignition is on?
 
I'm getting ready to tackle adding some reverse lights to my truck. @Jimmy07 This is extremely helpful, but I have one question. Would wiring this way result in the blunt cut PK/OG wire at the rear having power once the ignition is on?

Look at the wiring diagram.

PK/OG already has ignition power if the jumper is plugged in under the dash.

RD/WH has BAT+ power.

Moving pins is to carry a AUX switched power to one of the wires.

 
Look at the wiring diagram.

PK/OG already has ignition power if the jumper is plugged in under the dash.

RD/WH has BAT+ power.

Moving pins is to carry a AUX switched power to one of the wires.

Correct, with no pass through connection made there is no power at the rear of the truck. But plugging the connector in with the wiring as highlighted by @Jimmy07 would introduce ignition power to the rear blunt PK/OG wire, which would remain blunt cut. Maybe I am missing something there? I am by no means an expert

Also, If wire pins at 1, 3, 6 were removed from the grey connector leaving 4 connected to 5, would this still work?
 
Correct, with no pass through connection made there is no power at the rear of the truck. But plugging the connector in with the wiring as highlighted by @Jimmy07 would introduce ignition power to the rear blunt PK/OG wire, which would remain blunt cut. Maybe I am missing something there? I am by no means an expert

Also, If wire pins at 1, 3, 6 were removed from the grey connector leaving 4 connected to 5, would this still work?

What are you trying to do?

If you want the IGN and BAT+ power at the rear, just plug in the factory grey jumper under the dash. If you don't want one of them, pull the pin from the jumper.

If you're trying to get AUX power to the rear then you have to repin one of those wires to carry the pass-thru circuit G425.

G425 is present in the underhood AUX connector. W550 (21+) is one of the blunt cut wire under the hood by the AUX connectors.


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I am adding some reverse lights that I want to turn on with Aux switch 1. I'm rather sure I have the wiring down, just concerned there may be live power to a blunt cut wire at the rear of the truck. Also, would like to eliminate any unnecessary wires from the pass through connector. So would like to remove all of the pins except to jump 4 to 5 for the pass through circuit.
 
If you remove the other wires and only leave the jumper from 4 to 5 then you will only have power on that wire. The other blunt cut wire will remain unpowered because there is nothing going to it.
 
I am adding some reverse lights that I want to turn on with Aux switch 1. I'm rather sure I have the wiring down, just concerned there may be live power to a blunt cut wire at the rear of the truck. Also, would like to eliminate any unnecessary wires from the pass through connector. So would like to remove all of the pins except to jump 4 to 5 for the pass through circuit.

OK.

So you'll just move pin 3 to pin 5 to get the pass-through circuit to RD/WH. that removed BAT form the RD/WH.

Then just pull pin 6 to keep IGN power off the PK/OG.

If you want to pull them all, then yes, just leave 4-5 and pull the rest.
 
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