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What did you do TO your RAM today?

Added an engine oil bypass, remote filter mount, PPE deep trans pan and the thermal bypass delete.

What’s the rationale behind the oil bypass? Additional filtration? Not familiar

Love the deep pan btw, on my list.
 
What’s the rationale behind the oil bypass? Additional filtration? Not familiar

Love the deep pan btw, on my list.

The factory TBV keeps the cooler bypassed until the tranny is hot, hotter than I'd like IMO. Now for folks up where it actually gets cold I'd probably keep it on there and maybe look at a custom oil cooler thermostat to open up at 140 instead of 160 like the factory one seems to do. They've also been known to stick closed, not super common but it happens, likely from debris that the converter will shed as the output to the cooler line comes right off the converter. The PPE bypass having the magnet in the line will capture any ferrous material the converter may shed before it's picked up by the sump or spin on filter.

Being that the RFE's aren't exactly the most stout transmission I like to give them every reasonable supporting mod I can with regular maintenance. Especially when towing and/or running larger/heavier tires or running a bit more power. If you keep them cool, maintained, don't abuse them too much, and provide it some support - They'll typically live a long enough life before needing a rebuild. I like to drain the pan every 15k miles and swap filters every 30k if running under heavy use and drain the pan every 20k miles with filter changes every 60k under normal use. Cheap insurance to keep it happy and it's worked well for me.
 
The factory TBV keeps the cooler bypassed until the tranny is hot, hotter than I'd like IMO. Now for folks up where it actually gets cold I'd probably keep it on there and maybe look at a custom oil cooler thermostat to open up at 140 instead of 160 like the factory one seems to do. They've also been known to stick closed, not super common but it happens, likely from debris that the converter will shed as the output to the cooler line comes right off the converter. The PPE bypass having the magnet in the line will capture any ferrous material the converter may shed before it's picked up by the sump or spin on filter.

Being that the RFE's aren't exactly the most stout transmission I like to give them every reasonable supporting mod I can with regular maintenance. Especially when towing and/or running larger/heavier tires or running a bit more power. If you keep them cool, maintained, don't abuse them too much, and provide it some support - They'll typically live a long enough life before needing a rebuild. I like to drain the pan every 15k miles and swap filters every 30k if running under heavy use and drain the pan every 20k miles with filter changes every 60k under normal use. Cheap insurance to keep it happy and it's worked well for me.


Ahhhh, I was mixing up what I was looking at and didn’t read close enough.

I have heard of the tranny fluid thermostat bypass. I was looking at the remote filter mount and thinking it was a separate filter for the transmission fluid….‍:D

I like the magnet idea though. I’ve only been looking at the revmax version…that’s probably enough to convince me to go with PPE.

Thanks!
 
What’s the rationale behind the oil bypass? Additional filtration? Not familiar

Love the deep pan btw, on my list.
The engine oil bypass? It filters a certain amount of oil..aka.. "bypassed" down to a 3 micron filter for soot. Here's a link explaining
Since I tow heavy, any extra longevity I can get out of these expensive oils. And I did all these remote filter mounts for accessibility since I am disabled. I did all my oil and fuel filters remote. Easier to get to while I'm crawling on the ground. Now I just need to figure a way to add the oils back ..hah..maybe a hoist of some kind to lift my crippled butt into the engine bay instead of knocking on my neighbors door.
 
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The engine oil bypass? It filters a certain amount of oil..aka.. "bypassed" down to a 3 micron filter for soot. Here's a link explaining
Since I tow heavy, any extra longevity I can get out of these expensive oils. And I did all these remote filter mounts for accessibility since I am disabled. I did all my oil and fuel filters remote. Easier to get to while I'm crawling on the ground. Now I just need to figure a way to add the oils back ..hah..maybe a hoist of some kind to lift my crippled butt into the engine bay instead of knocking on my neighbors door.
After 3 spinal surgeries myself certain positions ain't exactly fun either. What remote mounts did you end up going with ? Alot of times it's alot easier for me if I'm able to stay flat on my back than having to manuveur around missing many of the flexi bits in my spine in favor of after market rods and screws.
 
For the fuel filters, I went with the G&R Diesel Dual Filter (fuel and water seperator) in the rear and used their engine mounted fuel filter delete block. For the engine oil, used the PacBrake kit (since they offer a mount for our trucks)..BUT since you turned me on to PPE stuff, I like their filter head mount better. I'll just re-use the PacBrake filter head mount. My truck's a money pit.."here take my money" :p Now im eyeing the Allision conversion ATS does...plug-n-play...
 
Got the front portion of the commuter kit put on this past Saturday, the back will be next Saturday and should be a walk in the park compared to the front. You need a heck of a lot of droop to get them tall springs in, I had the truck and axle in some pretty scary positions to get it done. The only casualty was the front drive shaft dust boot, axle side popped off because I should have waited to hook the drive shaft up after I got the radius arms back on, new band and everything is good. Dead blow and grinder were needed because the drop brackets and especially the bump stop extenders were never going to fit. I was in neck deep and wasn't going to wait until today to call CJC and tell them I have parts that that won't fit correctly, I just made them work. I'm glad me and a buddy did it so I know what I have, down side is I'm sore as hell right now. Did this on the floor with 4 stands and 2 jacks and will be putting it on the 4 post lift when done for final torquing, 280 ft pounds is pretty tough on a creeper.
 
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Another addition today, Bak Revolver X4s. I’ve had a few of these on other trucks and they have been pretty solid.
 

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Got this to cover up the new zero flex valve body.....

How did you do the PI Curve relearn ? Last I had talked to RevMax they stated it could only be done with a WiTech so I skipped on the VB for now. Once that PI Curve relearn can be done with anything else I'm prolly gonna get one as well.
 
Alright, now that I'm back from out of town....

Maybe I over looked it but what steering links are those and why did you change from The factory setup? I don’t believe steering stabilizers “do anything” but I prefer the factory location of it.

HD Steering Kit from Synergy... comes with new tie rod, drag link, you can opt out of the steering stabilizer and just use OEM or go for a single or dual kit.
The single stabilizer just adds a bracket to (just slightly offset from the OEM location) to fit the FOX that comes with the kit.
To me, the front just felt 'loose' and, for lack of a better term, felt like it would 'wallow' though curves/turns and over road irregularities (over camber entrances, expansion joints on bridges, crap patch jobs, etc...).

I understand it is a 3/4T HD Truck but the little bit I've driven it around it feels more planted/responsive... FWIW, my useless, unscientific experience.

OK, I saw the Thuren along with other aftermarket components and with your subtitle being "Prince of Pintops," it appeared that you had lifted your vehicle. It is unusual for a new vehicle to require replacement of those components.

Ah.... no.... I think that is just a forum thing for how many posts you make.... 'Prince of Pintops'...lol.
Maybe make a vinyl for the back of the truck!! lol
As far a why, I just felt it rode like crap.. (see above).

And I forgot who asked, but here is a pic of the stabilizer after I finished adjusting it.
Truck is in the driveway (as level as it is gonna be) and tires pointed straight ahead.

Disregard the camera angle as I'm taking a pic through the air dam and at an angle so it is skewing the image as I really can't get a head on shot.
I used a level to check the shock against the tie rod and they are the same.

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Fresh detail
 

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Got the front portion of the commuter kit put on this past Saturday, the back will be next Saturday and should be a walk in the park compared to the front. You need a heck of a lot of droop to get them tall springs in, I had the truck and axle in some pretty scary positions to get it done. The only casualty was the front drive shaft dust boot, axle side popped off because I should have waited to hook the drive shaft up after I got the radius arms back on, new band and everything is good. Dead blow and grinder were needed because the drop brackets and especially the bump stop extenders were never going to fit. I was in neck deep and wasn't going to wait until today to call CJC and tell them I have parts that that won't fit correctly, I just made them work. I'm glad me and a buddy did it so I know what I have, down side is I'm sore as hell right now. Did this on the floor with 4 stands and 2 jacks and will be putting it on the 4 post lift when done for final torquing, 280 ft pounds is pretty tough on a creeper.
I'll have to save these exchanges for when I finally get my truck. It's amazing how you can work around a few injuries then suddenly another flares up and even the simplest tasks became rocket science level of intricate.
 
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Not a huge project but a stressful one. Installed the factory puck kit and 7 way bed plug finally so we can pick up the new 5er soon. The frame mounts weren’t bad but drilling holes in your bed can be anxiety inducing. With the help of a few members here and stalking the local dealership I drilled right down on the mounts, maybe off a 16th or so. In other words…perfect!

I have the B&W adjusted back and high hoping to lock out the Turning Point kingpin. That is such a nice hitch, albeit heavy as f@/$ !

Timber Grove bags this weekend if I don’t work and then I’m ready to pick up the new coach.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Not a huge project but a stressful one. Installed the factory puck kit and 7 way bed plug finally so we can pick up the new 5er soon. The frame mounts weren’t bad but drilling holes in your bed can be anxiety inducing. With the help of a few members here and stalking the local dealership I drilled right down on the mounts, maybe off a 16th or so. In other words…perfect!

I have the B&W adjusted back and high hoping to lock out the Turning Point kingpin. That is such a nice hitch, albeit heavy as f@/$ !

Timber Grove bags this weekend if I don’t work and then I’m ready to pick up the new coach.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looking good man, can’t wait to see and hear feedback on the Timber Groves.
 
That looks so good, I would hate to throw anything back there and scratch it.

I had to haul some concrete blocks (15 of the 12”x8”x 16”) Monday and I was wondering how the bed liner would hold up to the blocks, but it held up well.
 
This is my favorite thread on all the other forums I’m part of it. I haven’t seen it on this sight. If I’m duplicating, I’ll delete! But here is what I did today.
I put on Diesel Fuel and DEF caps and called about Ranch Hand replacement bumper I’m ordering.View attachment 4679View attachment 4681
I've got the locking geno's versions being close to the eco-hippies in Austin... I just can't trust parking somewhere anymore these days, even here in texas...
 
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