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WDH Setup - New Truck

One thing to consider, that soft sprung 2500 might benefit greatly by replacing rear shocks with Rancho 9000's that have the adjustment knob to change firmness to compensate for different loads. That's a lot of trailer hanging out back there! :eek: Jeez, you gotta be pushing 55 feet?
 
One thing to consider, that soft sprung 2500 might benefit greatly by replacing rear shocks with Rancho 9000's that have the adjustment knob to change firmness to compensate for different loads.
Interesting you mention this. I was thinking about replacing the factory shocks with Bilstien 5100s today. Trailer is 28'; total 53'. A couple things after stopping at Cat Scale.

1. Tongue weight is 860# and my WD is rated between 600-800#.
2. Front axel is 4100# / rear 4340 with WD. I'd like to get the difference within a 100#.
The only difference between the Husky CL WD systems are the spring bars. My thought is to jump up to 800-1200# spring bars. I'm thinking this will push the desired weight up front, get me that 100# difference and cover the tongue weight.

Trailer tracked well with 700# tongue weight, but I wasn't loaded. Loaded (860# TW), still felt a little floating. Btw, loaded trailer weight came in at 6420#, which puts me at 13% TW/TT GVWR. Time to clean out my pass through.
 
If ultimately you can't fix it to a level you feel safe, the only option you have left is to get an anti-sway system like Hensley Arrow. That will take care of any sway permanently.
This is not like other WDH that rely on friction to fight sway. This one use geometry to move the effective pivot point in front of the truck rear axle (just like a 5th wheel).
I've been using one for 10 years now and trailer has been 100% rock solid. I'm always looking forward incoming semi to see how good this hitch is! :D
 
If ultimately you can't fix it to a level you feel safe, the only option you have left is to get an anti-sway system like Hensley Arrow.
I hear you, MikeXM. My primary concern is safety and the Hensley fits that. Thanks for the recommendation and good to hear you are enjoying the Hensley.
I'd like to really get this figured out with my current WDH and rule out any underlying issues. I need to evaluate how I'm loading my trailer, make some loading adjustments, transfer a few items over to my TV during tow, adjust WDH for the new spring bars, and replace the factory shocks. If all that does not improve the issue - then I'm totally lost o_O.
 
Alright - WDH adjustments made (3 washers and brackets set to 4 holes showing) with new springs bars and balanced load. UPS rolled up with the new shocks as we were leaving for a quick weekend trip and I didn't have time to install. Trailer towed well both directions cruising 60-65. Only movement that I could detect was due to road conditions. It was nice arriving to the campsite with no white knuckles.
Installed the new shocks today and ride is noticeably better; body roll reduced around corners and wheels stay on the road after hitting sharp bumps, no more rear end shimmy - improved handling overall. Looking forward to the next trip; two in Sept. and one each month through March 2021.
 
Out of curiosity, which shocks did you go with @hit4bag ?
I went with Fox 2.0. Ride is stiffer, not harsh/jarring, and I like how the truck handles now. Looking forward to loading up.
I have used Bilstein 5100's on my other trucks, which have always worked well and the cost vs. performance factor is great. But, from what I was able to gather, 5100 fronts are not available for stock height.
 
Btw - thank you all for the advice and insight. I have learned a great deal through this process.
 
I went with Fox 2.0. Ride is stiffer, not harsh/jarring, and I like how the truck handles now. Looking forward to loading up.
I have used Bilstein 5100's on my other trucks, which have always worked well and the cost vs. performance factor is great. But, from what I was able to gather, 5100 fronts are not available for stock height.

Thanks...
Been looking at Bilstein and from what I've gathered so far the 4600/5100s are valved the but the 5100s are allegedly made for specifically for lifted trucks?
The Foxes look good, but would be a bit of overkill for my needs.
 
Thanks...
Been looking at Bilstein and from what I've gathered so far the 4600/5100s are valved the but the 5100s are allegedly made for specifically for lifted trucks?
The Foxes look good, but would be a bit of overkill for my needs.
I thought the 5100s could also be used on stock height.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
I thought the 5100s could also be used on stock height.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

There are no 5100s for the front for non-lifted trucks... only for 2-2.5" lifted fronts.
 
Whatever happened to Rancho 9000's? I don't hear anybody talk about them anymore. :rolleyes:

I read plenty of good stuff about the RS9000 XL from other forums. A couple of setups from this past weekend's trip had RS9000 XL's equipped and they had nothing but positive things to say.
 
Whatever happened to Rancho 9000's? I don't hear anybody talk about them anymore. :rolleyes:

This is really all new to me... I don't see Ranchos discussed at all...
 
Just moved up to a 3500 SRW myself from a 1500 that has barely 1200 lbs cargo...ugh. Looking forward to having nearly 4000 now lol. I also have a Centerline TS for my Grand Design Imagine 2800BH, I’ve already upgraded the bars to the 800-1200 lb models last year due to borderline tonque weight.

Wileykid, For the new truck I’ll have to get a drop shank as well, it looks like you went with the:

Husky 30859 Center Line 12" Length, rise 11-3/4 inch and drops 13-1/4 inch, 6 mounting holes (2 inch receiver)

or

Husky 32550 Center Line 12” Length, rise 11-1/4 inch and drops 13-1/4 inch, 5 mounting holes (2.5 inch receiver)

—-

Which one did you get?

Thanks
Tim
 
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Just moved up to a 3500 SRW myself from a 1500 that has barely 1200 lbs cargo...ugh. Looking forward to having nearly 4000 now lol. I also have a Centerline TS for my Grand Design Imagine 2800BH, I’ve already upgraded the bars to the 800-1200 lb models last year due to borderline tonque weight.

Wileykid, For the new truck I’ll have to get a drop shank as well, it looks like you went with the:

Husky 30859 Center Line 12" Length, rise 11-3/4 inch and drops 13-1/4 inch, 6 mounting holes (2 inch receiver)

or

Husky 32550 Center Line 12” Length, rise 11-1/4 inch and drops 13-1/4 inch, 5 mounting holes (2.5 inch receiver)

—-

Which one did you get?

Thanks
Tim
Not sure which one he went with. But I know I would go with the 2.5 inch receiver...since that is what your truck has
 
Just moved up to a 3500 SRW myself from a 1500 that has barely 1200 lbs cargo...ugh. Looking forward to having nearly 4000 now lol. I also have a Centerline TS for my Grand Design Imagine 2800BH, I’ve already upgraded the bars to the 800-1200 lb models last year due to borderline tonque weight.

Wileykid, For the new truck I’ll have to get a drop shank as well, it looks like you went with the:

Husky 30859 Center Line 12" Length, rise 11-3/4 inch and drops 13-1/4 inch, 6 mounting holes (2 inch receiver)

or

Husky 32550 Center Line 12” Length, rise 11-1/4 inch and drops 13-1/4 inch, 5 mounting holes (2.5 inch receiver)

—-

Which one did you get?

Thanks
Tim
I went with the 30859 shank. The 2.5" one would work just as well, and most likely would be better due to not needing the adapter. I plan to upgrade to a 5th, so I was more interested in having the 2" to make it easier to sell WDH. Length should work for both, I ended up cutting a little over 1/2" off the end for better ground clearance when backing my trailer into my driveway.

Just to add, not sure if it makes a difference, but double check the hitch itself and make sure the 2 1/2" shank will work. Not sure if they have different sizes. I know they do use a different head unit on the heavier setups. I have shims for mine to work with the 2" shank.
 
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I went with the 30859 shank. The 2.5" one would work just as well, and most likely would be better due to not needing the adapter. I plan to upgrade to a 5th, so I was more interested in having the 2" to make it easier to sell WDH. Length should work for both, I ended up cutting a little over 1/2" off the end for better ground clearance when backing my trailer into my driveway.

Just to add, not sure if it makes a difference, but double check the hitch itself and make sure the 2 1/2" shank will work. Not sure if they have different sizes. I know they do use a different head unit on the heavier setups. I have shims for mine to work with the 2" shank.

I went through thus dilemna as well. Upgraded from a 1500 with a Reese Pro Series round bar hitch. Needed longer shank and wanted 2.5" but couldn't find one long enough that accepted the head made for 2". I bought a Curt solid shank, not thrilled with how it fits with the hitch adapter supplied by Ram. Side to side is OK but up and down it basically pivots on the pin until it bumps the upper or lower lip of the adapter. Functions just fine though and everything is rated way beyond my trailer weight.
 
had the same problem with sway, i added a friction anti sway for $30 that solved it for me when i had a TT.
no i have ZERO sway...why I bought a fifth wheel lol

your set up looks about perfect go with an anti sway youll be happy
 
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