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WDH Setup - New Truck

hit4bag

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I'm scratching my head here - I recently sold my 1/2 ton and purchased a 3/4 ton (<5000 miles) to pull our TT. I got tired of being thrown around by trucks and wind. I'm trying to get everything setup for our upcoming trips. After adjusting the WDH (Husky CL TS 32217 / 600-800 max TW / 8K max GTW) - replaced shank and adjusted spring bars to be parallel to TT frame - I took a test drive (empty trailer) up I15 and noticed a slight floating feeling at times while cruising between 55-60 mph. Looked back at the trailer and it was slightly moving around back there. Nothing out of control, but the floating made me uneasy. At one point, the back end started to slightly shake back and forth, which I used my manual trailer brake to stop the back and forth, but I was not seesawing the steering wheel. It seems I adjusted the WDH properly to match with the new truck. Maybe I noticed more of a wag, rather than sway and I could be overthinking the situation.

Anyway -I'd appreciate any thoughts/feedback.

Btw - I'm running psi per the door sticker: FR 60/R 65 | trailer 70 psi (sidewall max. 80).

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Is the trailer level or slightly dipped in the front after the WD is setup? It looks nose high.

I'd run more air the the tires if it were me.

Remember that WD puts more weight on BOTH the TV and the trailer axles. You need to compensate for that load in the trailer tire pressure.
 
Is the trailer level or slightly dipped in the front after the WD is setup? It looks nose high.
Trailer is slightly nose high. I replaced the original WDH 2" drop shank for a 6" drop.

I'd run more air the the tires if it were me.

Remember that WD puts more weight on BOTH the TV and the trailer axles. You need to compensate for that load in the trailer tire pressure.
Makes more sense when someone else explains. With the 1/2 ton I used to increase TV psi (front: 45 to 50/rear: 45 to 55 (max. 65)), while running TT max. 65 psi. I'll give that a go after work. I'm thinking TV F-70/R-70 and TT max. psi (80). I changed to E load on the TT a few weeks ago.
 
I would try to get the nose down another inch then if you can. Nose high can induce sway.

Measuring the wheel arch gap is good but you should try to scale it to make sure you're putting enough weight into the WD setup.

Does that brand hitch put any sway pressure at the hitch head (4-way)?

ETA: Is there a torque spec on the trunion attach bolts at the hitch head? Maybe add some pressure there?
 
I would try to get the nose down another inch then if you can. Nose high can induce sway.
I measured, before ordering the 6" drop, from the top of the receiver opening vs. bottom of coupler and the difference was 6". I'll find level ground and measure again before I order another shank.

Measuring the wheel arch gap is good but you should try to scale it to make sure you're putting enough weight into the WD setup.
I probably should do that regardless to get actual measurements. One thing I'm confused about is the front came back to the original height and the rear is within an 1.25 unloaded to WD. The spring bars have good tension and they are creaking.

Is there a torque spec on the trunion attach bolts at the hitch head? Maybe add some pressure there?
I was able to find torque spec's for the trunnion bolts, but only for the next model (150 ft lbs.). I sent Husky an email to confirm.
 
I had to do the same thing when I went from the EcoDiesel to the 2500. I ordered a new EAZ LIFT 14" x 5.75" rise x 8.75" drop, adjustable ball mount extra hi/low shank. Make sure you get one long enough out the receiver so you can open your truck tailgate. My old shank allowed the tailgate to open, so I laid the old shank on top of the new one and marked the hole, then drilled it out so have two adjustments if needed. When I installed the new shank I drop it two holes and the truck and trailer look pretty level with bars, but may still need some adjustment.

When I did this setup on the EcoDiesel I felt like the back was a little mushy with the coil springs, so I added Timber Grove airbags and that solved the problem. Will probably do the same o the 2500 since it has coil springs.
 
I had to do the same thing when I went from the EcoDiesel to the 2500. I ordered a new EAZ LIFT 14" x 5.75" rise x 8.75" drop, adjustable ball mount extra hi/low shank. Make sure you get one long enough out the receiver so you can open your truck tailgate. My old shank allowed the tailgate to open, so I laid the old shank on top of the new one and marked the hole, then drilled it out so have two adjustments if needed. When I installed the new shank I drop it two holes and the truck and trailer look pretty level with bars, but may still need some adjustment.

When I did this setup on the EcoDiesel I felt like the back was a little mushy with the coil springs, so I added Timber Grove airbags and that solved the problem. Will probably do the same o the 2500 since it has coil springs.

Bags will help level but will take weight off the steer axle if used alone where WD is really needed.
 
I didn't get a chance to pull the trailer out today; will try again tomorrow for coupler/receiver measurements.
However, I found the trunnion torque spec's. in the back of the Husky manual: 150 ft lbs. They were loose. Tightened up.

I ordered a new EAZ LIFT 14" x 5.75" rise x 8.75" drop, adjustable ball mount extra hi/low shank. Make sure you get one long enough out the receiver so you can open your truck tailgate.
It would be nice to be able to open the tailgate when the trailer is hitched. I'll look at the EAZ Lift shank. I'm not seeing an 8.75" drop - I'll keep looking.
 
I probably should do that regardless to get actual measurements. One thing I'm confused about is the front came back to the original height and the rear is within an 1.25 unloaded to WD. The spring bars have good tension and they are creaking.

I would think the WD should bring the rear a little closer closer to original height as well.
 
hit4bag, Here is the link for the EAZ LIFT 14" x 5.75" rise x 8.75" drop, adjustable ball mount extra hi/low shank:

brutal, correct about the air bags, I only add a little air to make it a little firmer with the coil springs, not for lifting or leveling. My WDH is a anti-sway setup and works well with setting up the truck and trailer level. May take it to a CAT scale someday to see where the axle weights are when hooked to the trailer.
 
I didn't get a chance to pull the trailer out today; will try again tomorrow for coupler/receiver measurements.
However, I found the trunnion torque spec's. in the back of the Husky manual: 150 ft lbs. They were loose. Tightened up.
It would be nice to be able to open the tailgate when the trailer is hitched. I'll look at the EAZ Lift shank. I'm not seeing an 8.75" drop - I'll keep looking.
I was using 6" drop on my Ford, needed another 1 1/2" drop on my Ram 2020 3500. Didn't want a 10" drop as hangs too low. The 8" is working fine. I don't think anyone makes an 8 3/4". I ordered this one:
Hitch Shank - Equalizer, 2 1/2" x 8" Drop - # 90-02-4225
 
I ordered this one:
Hitch Shank - Equalizer, 2 1/2" x 8" Drop - # 90-02-4225
I may have to go with either a 8" or 9" drop - my trailer seems to sit low compared to the truck (24" from ground to inside top of receiver). I should have a better idea once I verify the coupler vs. receiver height.
I checked the EQ# 90-02-4225 and that seems to be a 8" rise/4" drop (9.5" height). I currently have EQ# 90-02-4325 (10" rise / 6" drop (11.5" height)). Once into a 8" drop, the height is reaching 14".
 
I hooked up, found flat ground, adjusted, and remeasured.
  • Torque trunnion bolts to 150 ft. lbs.
  • Add washer at head pin (3 total)
  • Lower spring bar brackets one hole (3 showing)
  • TV 70 psi front and rear | TT 80 psi
  • Measure height of receiver (24.5") vs. top of inside coupler (19.5")
  • Remeasured unloaded, load, WD load. I marked my reference points this time.
After the above adjustments, no more rear wag and no indication of any sway after a quick test drive. Feels stiff (not harsh), but in a good way - TV and TT feel like one unit. I'll head up the Rainbow grade today into Escondido this morning and see how it it does.

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Unfortunately, there was still sway with the extended test drive.

I think Brutal nailed it,
Measuring the wheel arch gap is good but you should try to scale it to make sure you're putting enough weight into the WD setup.

I went back to the parking lot and looked where my ball is lining up to the coupler; middle of ball is 2" (3" ball on top of a .25" spacer) above top of the coupler. The Husky manual says middle of the ball should be level to the top of the coupler. Since the coupler is lower than the middle ball, I think this is the cause of the sway.

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Therefore, I think I have two options:
1. Get the Curt 8" drop shank. Height Length is 14.5". I'm concerned about clearance issues. Top of my receiver is 24.5", which would give me 9" of clearance (including 1" drop). I read that other members are running this shank and no mention of issues.
2. Go with the Equalizer WDH, which seems the ball mount is lower. Husky has a 2" mound, .25" spacer, and 3" ball.
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I went from a 3/4 ton to a 1 ton earlier this year, and had to lower the hitch for my setup, which is also a Husky Centerline. I measured the differences between the trucks in height at the hitch, and bought a longer Husky drop shank (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RCOUHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and put the head setup down the amount of the differences of the trucks. Worked well, and I verified it by going through the instructions, which came out the same. After several trips with the trailer, and verifying that everything worked well, I cut about an inch of excess off the bottom of the shank.

One thing I noticed, was the longer shank is drilled so the shank is about 4" further out from the truck receiver than the original factory one. I didn't mind that, and not worried about the longer arm. Easily fixed by drilling a new hole for the pin if needed.
 
I went from a 3/4 ton to a 1 ton earlier this year, and had to lower the hitch for my setup, which is also a Husky Centerline. I measured the differences between the trucks in height at the hitch, and bought a longer Husky drop shank (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RCOUHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and put the head setup down the amount of the differences of the trucks. Worked well, and I verified it by going through the instructions, which came out the same. After several trips with the trailer, and verifying that everything worked well, I cut about an inch of excess off the bottom of the shank.

One thing I noticed, was the longer shank is drilled so the shank is about 4" further out from the truck receiver than the original factory one. I didn't mind that, and not worried about the longer arm. Easily fixed by drilling a new hole for the pin if needed.
Looks to be more options with a 2" shank. I'll look into this also.

Once I get the correct drop to align ball/coupler, verify tongue weight; hopefully, I'll have this dialed in.
 
Checked tongue weight yesterday. TT dry is 5765 lbs, I figure I have ~200 lbs of fixed gear, which would put tongue weight at 11%. New shank is due in tomorrow and headed to a CAT scale on Friday (I'll be fully loaded).

I'm planning three scales:
  • TV loaded
  • TV F/R axles and TT no WD
  • TV F/R axles and TT with WD
Maybe a fourth if I need to adjust WD.

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Alright, I think I'm closer to having this knocked. New shank came into today (Equalizer 9" drop) and set it up on lowest setting (14" height), which aligns (top of coupler to mid ball) per Husky's requirements. Checked tongue weight again on level, which came in at 700 lbs. I may have more fixed gear than I thought. Anyway, heading to a CAT scale tomorrow. We'll see what scaled tongue weight comes in. Took a test drive through Rainbow pass. There is a portion on the I15 through Murrieta/Temecula that has irregular road patterns, so I wrote that off. I didn't notice any sway the rest of the run.

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