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Wagoneer WDH

jetrinka

jetrinka

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Just wondering which weight distribution hitches people are favoring these days. I've got a 5k gross travel trailer I want to tow with my wife's Wagoneer L. I don't care about any sway control as I load it fairly tongue heavy anyway but do want something I don't have to do anything to in order to reverse the trailer.
 
Definitely skip the overpriced and overmarketed gimmicks.

For our 5K TT that the wife tows with her Jeep Gladiator the basic Draw-Tite we have is perfect. Transfers adequite weight and is easy to hook up. It came with the trailer and I haven't felt the need to swap it out.

I also like the Equal-I-Zer brand WDH, but probably overkill for the application thou the lack of chains is nice.
 
H3LZSN1P3R said:
Don’t buy into the gimmicks for that weight, a curt WDH or similar 300$ hitch is all you need.
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I had a Husky unit at one point that I made the dealer buy back - it was the worst thing I've ever had on a truck/trailer. I'm not sure if all friction anti-sway presents the same problems but there was so much friction with that unit it would prevent the truck/trailer from tracking correctly after taking a turn. I started looking at it and discovered the dealer installed it all wrong - I corrected it and still had problems so it was a long battle and they finally gave me my money back...
 
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I agree that Equalizer offers budget friendly stuff that works. No chains is the way to go IMO.


Sent from me
 
Any opinions on the Andersen unit? Looks like it operates off the premise of the chain resisting lengthening as the tongue travels up and down but I'm not so sure it would redistribute much weight....

The B&W Continuum looks really really nice/cool.

I don't mind spending a bit of money if it actually works but it seems the industry is full of gimmicks.
 
After towing a 10k lb camper with my 1500 ram and a curt hitch for 25 miles I bought the Hensley. It’s definitely expensive. Worth every penny. I had over 15k miles towing my cougar 32rli all over the east coast. Never had any white knuckle moments. Plus I really enjoyed not having to deal with pulling that heady hitch head out of my truck.
 
The Andersen’s have a cult following (much like their 5th wheel junk), but outside of that cult they are well known, and documented, to not transfer much weight.

I’ve towed with one once and was not impressed with the hookup, weight transfer, and overall general operation.

Not worth your time or money.
 
AH64ID said:
The Andersen’s have a cult following (much like their 5th wheel junk), but outside of that cult they are well known, and documented, to not transfer much weight.

I’ve towed with one once and was not impressed with the hookup, weight transfer, and overall general operation.

Not worth your time or money.
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That’s what I’m gathering. It likely helps resist porpoising to my eye but I can’t wrap my head around how it would ever redistribute weight.
 
jetrinka said:
That’s what I’m gathering. It likely helps resist porpoising to my eye but I can’t wrap my head around how it would ever redistribute weight.
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I try to explain a standard WDH like using a wheelbarrow and the Andersen “works” by pulling the wheelbarrow towards your legs. The physics just isn’t there.
 
I towed with the Anderson WDH and I felt like the 7K trailer was never solidly connected to the truck, also had a bit of sway. I didn't like the chains and having to adjust each time I towed. And the weight distribution was questionable. It was light weight which was nice. I sold the Anderson and switched to Equalizer WDH. Stupid heavy but dead-simple to install and hook up, no adjustment needed and I can back up with no issues.
 
AH64ID said:
Definitely skip the overpriced and overmarketed gimmicks.

For our 5K TT that the wife tows with her Jeep Gladiator the basic Draw-Tite we have is perfect. Transfers adequite weight and is easy to hook up. It came with the trailer and I haven't felt the need to swap it out.

I also like the Equal-I-Zer brand WDH, but probably overkill for the application thou the lack of chains is nice.
Click to expand...
I traded a Gladiator Rubicon for my 2500. The Gladiator engine with 35" tires was merely adequate for my 4k camper. We live at high altitude, and it would struggle on hills. How does your JT feels towing a 5K camper?
 
Put almost 20k on our Blue Ox before we switched to a 5th wheel, worked great really liked the chains allowing for different load transfers based on camping vs empty weight. No popping noise on turns and nothing to disconnect on backup (thats pretty common with new WDH not many still require disconnecting anything like back in the day).
 
LeRamona said:
I traded a Gladiator Rubicon for my 2500. The Gladiator engine with 35" tires was merely adequate for my 4k camper. We live at high altitude, and it would struggle on hills. How does your JT feels towing a 5K camper?
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It does great! All stock aside from airbags. It's still a mini-truck towing a TT so there is definitely some expectation management, but I don't have any complaints. Hills and flats at altitude takes rpms, but that's not any different than towing ~10K with my Hemi.
 
Used equalizer from facebook marketplace. (Great unit but not worth full price when available for 1/3-1/2 retail.) Sounds like their 4k or 6k unit is what you're after. Resist the temptation to get overly-stiff bars relative to your camper. B&W continuum if you want to be fancy.

Problem with the anderson is that the frame brackets on the tongue are under extreme rotational and forward force, rather than being pushed down. It's a really cumbersome way to create a moment about the hitch ball and you're counting on the brackets not rotating or sliding on the frame rail.
 
Lots of people telling you what you don't need here.

Are you towing 50 miles to the lake and back 3 times a year, or are you leaving for 6 weeks at a time and towing constantly?

If it isn't the first one then anything and everything you can do to make your towing easier is well advised.

I had a 2020 Gladiator that I towed an off road trailer (+/- 25,000 mi) . It was never enough truck for that trailer despite being "rated" for more than twice that amount. Engine and suspension were woefully inadequate for long trips. When the Pentastar did it's thing (digested rocker arms) at 103k miles I sent it down the road. Point is, when I hook up to the trailer it will be with me for months at a time, which is where the Gladiator proved it's weakness. If all I did with it was as described earlier (lake and back ) it would have been perfectly adequate.
 
Well first things first as I have no idea what the tongue on my trailer even weighs when it’s loaded how I want. I’ve got a tongue scale coming just to see.

My PW tows it fine - I level it some with bags but it does nothing to transfer any weight back to the front axle. Certainly feels a bit floatier than unloaded. I’d imagine the Wagoneer would be worse even with the L wheelbase.

I don’t tow it often but when I do it’s probably 600ish miles round trip.

Our family is expanding and it might be difficult in the future to only take the truck - hence wanting to use the Wagoneer.

I’m really interested in the Continuum.
 
The continuum looks sweet, but I’m surprised how short the bars are, it means more leverage on them. I do like the concept though and would like to try one out.
 
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