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TPMS (TIS) sensors for trailer (SOLVED - see 1st post) aka TTPMS - Trailer TPMS

Here’s some info we already know but was on Tech Authority.
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Great info from TA. Are we going to have to have a dealer use the tool to teach the vehicle each sensor before it can be paired to a trailer? The TA reads like the sensor has to be taught to the TTPMS system before it can be added through the UCONNECT. Obviously trucks that came with it would already have their sensors paired so they would only have to do the UCONNECT portion.

Anyone else reading it like that?


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Here is a description of the TIM which includes a statement about isolating the CAN bus in case of an accident, but it is primarily a "gateway between the TTPM and the CAN-C network." That is a lacking description.

Screenshot_20200424-093719_Chrome.jpg
 
Great info from TA. Are we going to have to have a dealer use the tool to teach the vehicle each sensor before it can be paired to a trailer? The TA reads like the sensor has to be taught to the TTPMS system before it can be added through the UCONNECT. Obviously trucks that came with it would already have their sensors paired so they would only have to do the UCONNECT portion.

Anyone else reading it like that?

EDIT: The instructions say, "Performe one of the following..." Method (a) uses the analyzer, but method (b) does not. Method (b) is just remain stationary for 20 minutes then drive for 20 minutes while maintaining a speed above 15 mph. The analyzer does not seem to be necessary.

I agree. This is the relevant section.

Screenshot_20200424-094945_Photos.jpg

Here is the kit part 2046300080. It costs $2,000.

 
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EDIT: The instructions say, "Performe one of the following..." Method (a) uses the analyzer, but method (b) does not. Method (b) is just remain stationary for 20 minutes then drive for 20 minutes while maintaining a speed above 15 mph. The analyzer does not seem to be necessary.

I agree. This is the relevant section.

View attachment 4023

Here is the kit part 2046300080. It costs $2,000.

We got all the hard stuff sorted out, let’s not start overthinking on the easy stuff. They’re just like any other sensor and will automatically pick up. We would use option “B”. Option A is for the dealer when they don’t have 40 minutes to screw around with a customer’s vehicle, and can get them to pair immediately.
 
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Another order cancelled. Jumpers are gone.


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We got all the hard stuff sorted out, let’s not start overthinking on the easy stuff. They’re just like any other sensor and will automatically pick up. We would use option “B”. Option A is for the dealer when they don’t have 40 minutes to screw around with a customer’s vehicle, and can get them to pair immediately.

I think it’s going to be an easy process just like the tire minder set that I use now. One at a time takes 1-3 min to pick up and place where on vehicle it is and done.


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Another order cancelled. Jumpers are gone.


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They will all show back up with a 200% mark up. Dealers will start making their own "add-on" kits for 1k, while sucking up all the inventory.
 
We got all the hard stuff sorted out, let’s not start overthinking on the easy stuff. They’re just like any other sensor and will automatically pick up. We would use option “B”. Option A is for the dealer when they don’t have 40 minutes to screw around with a customer’s vehicle, and can get them to pair immediately.

Correct, I edited my post.
 
Any chance the connectors on each side of the jumper happen to be a standard molex or something that can be sourced? Hard to beat $10, however, if not available until who knows when?
 
Any chance the connectors on each side of the jumper happen to be a standard molex or something that can be sourced? Hard to beat $10, however, if not available until who knows when?

The connectors are available, one side pins are available, but the Yazaki pins on the Yazaki connector are unicorns. One of the members possibly had some samples due in.
 
Excuse me but, I may be jumping ahead of the game a little. I just wanted to mention it before I forgot it.

Pairing The Censors To The Truck:

Once you guys get all the wiring and connections and stuff figured out, Here is how I got my TTPMS to show the tire pressure on each wheel. This took me 3 time to get it programmed correctly so be patient.

1. Get all your tire censors mounted in your trailer rims First. Mine came in a packet of 4 with the truck when I purchased it with Part Numbers.
2. Make sure the trailer wiring connector is hooked to the truck.
3. Start Engine and Leave truck engine running.
4. Bring up and turn to your trailer icon on the center dash cluster by speedometer.
5. On your stereo, go to settings and go into Trailer Tire Pressure Settings.
TOOLS NEEDED: A good Air Source, Tire Gage and a Valve Core Removal Tool. and a Stool to Sit on.
6. Click Start, follow the settings on screen. (some functions won't be available until after programming is finished)
7. You will start at the Left Front Tire on the trailer going to the Back Tire on the Same Side, then go the the Back Tire on the Right Side and ending with the Right Front Tire.
8. You will Start Letting the air pressure out possibly as low as 5 psi. (or you hear the horn blow once) put the valve stem core back in and go the next tire doing the same thing, only 1 tire at a time. Once you finish the Last Tire, Go back and follow the Instructions/Settings on the stereo screen and finish programming.
* * * DO NOT put Any Air Back in any of the tires until the Full Programming Process is Finished. Or The Programming will time out * * *
9
. Check everything out good then take the trailer for a spin a few miles down the street to make sure it show up with the correct pressure in the Display by the Speedometer. If this fails, you may have to start over again.

I hope I didn't forget anything and If I did, Please don't shoot me... I wish you all luck.

BTW:
When I got all the above programmed, The Exhaust Brake will be normally OFF, Once you turn it ON, it will stay ON until you unhook the trailer and turn your engine off unless you Manually turn it off. At least this is what it did for me.
However the Tow Haul Button would not. I has to re-activate it each time I started the truck.

EDITED : Spelling & Added Link.. If I remember anything else I will come back here to update. this post.... check last edited date ------>
So hemi or others, if this is the best way to move forward for success, how would I go about that on my fiver that I live in an only move once a month or so. I obviously don't want to drain my tires down so there almost on the rim, especially if I have to do all 4. I will take two tires off at a time ( across the axle, not the same side) an take them in for sensor instal. I keep the pressure around 75psi. So after i get all 4 reinstalled, how would you proceed with out draining them out of air an not traveling for a while
 
We got all the hard stuff sorted out, let’s not start overthinking on the easy stuff. They’re just like any other sensor and will automatically pick up. We would use option “B”. Option A is for the dealer when they don’t have 40 minutes to screw around with a customer’s vehicle, and can get them to pair immediately.

Concur. Sorry for spooling everyone up. I didn’t catch the either / or.

My harness order hasn’t been canx... yet.


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So hemi or others, if this is the best way to move forward for success, how would I go about that on my fiver that I live in an only move once a month or so. I obviously don't want to drain my tires down so there almost on the rim, especially if I have to do all 4. I will take two tires off at a time ( across the axle, not the same side) an take them in for sensor instal. I keep the pressure around 75psi. So after i get all 4 reinstalled, how would you proceed with out draining them out of air an not traveling for a while

I have no idea..... All I know is what the truck had us to do. The way I understand it, the reason you let the air pressure down is so the tow vehicle can see some activity from other censors around you and know which one to pair to. The reason you have to do them all at one time and in a certain order is so your tow vehicle can display the proper position of each tire on the trailer and number of tires on trailer.
 
I have no idea..... All I know is what the truck had us to do. The way I understand it, the reason you let the air pressure down is so the tow vehicle can see some activity from other censors around you and know which one to pair to. The reason you have to do them all at one time and in a certain order is so your tow vehicle can display the proper position of each tire on the trailer and number of tires on trailer.
I was reading the Manuel a bit ago an it said that after you let 5psi out of the tire the truck would give you an alarm sound then you move to the next tire, but didnt you say sometimes the alarm wouldn't come on at just a loss of only 5psi but the tire actually got down to 5psi, or am I all jacked up on Tennessee dew
 
Fast Hemi, where is that truck that had all the stuff in it? I want to pull the VIN and get all info off of it in TechAuthority.


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