TXGeorge
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Thuren and Carli difference is the bushings.
Cannot decide which one is better to go.
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Sway bar recommendation
- Thread starter diablo82
- Start date
Thuren and Carli difference is the bushings.
Cannot decide which one is better to go.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
diablo82
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I went with Thuren because it's $180 cheaper and in stock now.
Razzman
Well-Known Member
I have the Thuren and the difference is night and day over the stocker. You won't regret it.
I don't know if external links are allowed:
www.cumminsforum.com
Paul from CJC (Rhinopkc) answers the question in detail below. This is from 2016, some things may have changed since then. DYOR as always.
I have had both on my truck, and they both feel about the same as far as the way the truck handles. The 3 main differences between the two are in the end links, the arm attachment strategy to the torsion bar, and the sway bar brackets. The stock wheel thing is the same with either one, I ran stock aluminum wheels with 35" Toyos when I had my Thuren sway bar and it rubbed a little at full lock, it's no biggie, it's a tiny rub, no one drives in a circle at full lock all day. Now, on to the 3 main differences:
1. End links: Carli uses an adjustable, double heim joint end link that is pretty straightforward. They seem to have a long lifespan, and it's a heim, so it's just run it until it's rattling.
Thuren uses JKS style end links. These use a replaceable, greasable (I know some of you love to grease!) urethane ball as the pivot. The balls are cheap and easy to replace.
2. Arm attachment strategy: Thuren's strategy is simple. Weld the arm on, it is on there for life. Simple, strong, effective.
Carli's attachment strategy requires you, the end user to engage a small amount of brain power and motor skill to bolt 4 bolts together and use a little red Loctite. This is necessary because of the one piece Delrin bushings that the bar rides in.
3. Sway bar brackets: Thuren supplies you with nice steel straps that cradle two piece poly bushings, greasable too!
Carli supplies fabricated mounts, powder coated black, like all things Carli. These have a one piece Delrin bushing that requires no maintenance, at the expense of the extra work of assembling the sway bar.
So, there is my long-winded comparison. When people ask me why the Carli sway bar costs more than the Thuren sway bar, I can only guess that it is the cost of the production of the fabricated mounts, as this is the one thing that stands out to me as something that would drive up production time and cost. They are both great products, and I have run both.
I would just like to add for the benefit of anyone with a truck from 2003-present that the comparisons I gave stand, regardless of year of your truck. Both companies have made slight adjustments to accommodate fitment to the radius arm trucks (Carli has also modified their mounts to negate the need for their way bar drops when running a full Carli system on 2014+), but the overall details are the same.
Carli v Thuren sway bar - 2014+
Paul from CJC (Rhinopkc) answers the question in detail below. This is from 2016, some things may have changed since then. DYOR as always.
I have had both on my truck, and they both feel about the same as far as the way the truck handles. The 3 main differences between the two are in the end links, the arm attachment strategy to the torsion bar, and the sway bar brackets. The stock wheel thing is the same with either one, I ran stock aluminum wheels with 35" Toyos when I had my Thuren sway bar and it rubbed a little at full lock, it's no biggie, it's a tiny rub, no one drives in a circle at full lock all day. Now, on to the 3 main differences:
1. End links: Carli uses an adjustable, double heim joint end link that is pretty straightforward. They seem to have a long lifespan, and it's a heim, so it's just run it until it's rattling.
Thuren uses JKS style end links. These use a replaceable, greasable (I know some of you love to grease!) urethane ball as the pivot. The balls are cheap and easy to replace.
2. Arm attachment strategy: Thuren's strategy is simple. Weld the arm on, it is on there for life. Simple, strong, effective.
Carli's attachment strategy requires you, the end user to engage a small amount of brain power and motor skill to bolt 4 bolts together and use a little red Loctite. This is necessary because of the one piece Delrin bushings that the bar rides in.
3. Sway bar brackets: Thuren supplies you with nice steel straps that cradle two piece poly bushings, greasable too!
Carli supplies fabricated mounts, powder coated black, like all things Carli. These have a one piece Delrin bushing that requires no maintenance, at the expense of the extra work of assembling the sway bar.
So, there is my long-winded comparison. When people ask me why the Carli sway bar costs more than the Thuren sway bar, I can only guess that it is the cost of the production of the fabricated mounts, as this is the one thing that stands out to me as something that would drive up production time and cost. They are both great products, and I have run both.
I would just like to add for the benefit of anyone with a truck from 2003-present that the comparisons I gave stand, regardless of year of your truck. Both companies have made slight adjustments to accommodate fitment to the radius arm trucks (Carli has also modified their mounts to negate the need for their way bar drops when running a full Carli system on 2014+), but the overall details are the same.
diablo82
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For the record; Thuren sway bar did eliminated the sway bar rub for my set up. Both pics showing full lock (my wife was in the truck turned steering wheel all the way in both directions) and there are more than an inch between tire and sway bar. There are no control arm rub either. So far I do not have to trim any plastic yet but I have not gone any off-roading either. Hope this help someone in their decision-making process. 
If you use the truck offroad you will likely rub the pinch welds and liner. At stock height, I trimmed to fit the 37s as I ran them for a couple of months before my suspension upgrade. I was still rubbing but only slightly when flexing. After my Carli 3" suspension was added I still rub the pinch weld on a big flex. Achieving that big flex is easier now because of the torsion swaybar now too. Not sure about your suspension, but the Carli system does not extend the bump stops. You get full tire travel and can put that tire up to where it was stock. I need to go in and take just a little more off.
diablo82
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Thanks for the head up! There are no doubt I'll have to trim or heat shape some of the wheel lining in the future when going off pavement but hopefully pinch weld cutting could be limited to the minimum if any needed. I was taking a good look at it when the wheel locked and seem like I'll be able to clear the sheet metal. Will update in future for reference.
All trucks are a little different. You might get lucky.
loveracing1988
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Is there any special way to heat and bend the wheel liner? I just got my 35's and they rub my rubber splash guards at full lock. If I could bend the wheel liner back a half inch at the back it would be greats
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
loveracing1988
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This works if I wanted to cut the wheel liner but I just want to bend it where the rubber splash guard mounts to it.
LateToTheParty
Didn't want to come
I've not tried it on a Ram, but I've re-molded a few inner fenders in the past using a heat gun and a baseball bat. Once the liner is hot enough, push the bat against the tire for leverage and roll it along the liner as it cools back down.
diablo82
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LateToTheParty
Didn't want to come
Yep, same idea, just different tools (torch and anvil).
rsg1963
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It will have a major impact on the handling once you start adding significant weight or towing anything worth mentioning.
AnthonyD1978
Well-Known Member
My 37s don't rub when on pavement. It does have a slight rub on the liner when flexing (edit: in combo with turning). I figure it will rub the liner until it clears itself lol. I'll increase the caster when my Carli Pintop comes in (hopefully in the next few weeks!). That should help too.
Last edited:
Even though I cut and trimmed, I still rub when flexing and turning at the same time. I might just pull some of the liner back with a zip tie if I can do it without looking trashy.
AnthonyD1978
Well-Known Member
Yes, I don't like cutting away the liner because it's protects the metal from rocks and chips. Which lead to rust. Easy to maintain with some paint if you never take it off-road, but if you do then it will be harder to protect from rust. Maybe line-x that part of the fender after you cut away the liner...??
R.J.
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What backspacing are your wheels?