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SO what's a REAL lift

Rockcrawlerdude said:
the coil spring isn’t the limiting factor in the travel here. This isn’t a high end off road machine. It’s a heavy duty truck.

OP can we just see a pic of the dang truck? We’re arguing about a lift you may or may not even have.
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WOW - that's great, I appreciate everyone's read and reply to this.

Here are a few pics...
 

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FYI - I only haul right now. I had a 1500 with a truck mounted camper.... I put in HD leaf springs but the tranny couldn't keep up. I've put the same camper on this past weekend and I'm getting more "squat" than I expected. The camper can't be THAT heavy... I'll shoot a pic with the camper on it.
 

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bigontheblue said:
Yeah that looks exactly what's on top of the coil. What does the stock one look like?

I also think that's a lot of squat @jetrinka. Looking into air ride now, but should I be looking at new leafs first?
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If it was me I'd confirm the leaf pack has been altered or not by comparing with other trucks. Maybe a different angle of the leaf spring would help so others on here with 1 tons could compare. My truck has coils on the back or I'd confirm for you.

If that is the stock spring pack personally I'd remove the level up front and see where that gets you. Never been a fan of altering just one or two things in the suspension on anything - its like a game of dominos - everything is connected and if you change one thing you have 3 other problems as a result IMO.
 
bigontheblue said:
Yeah that looks exactly what's on top of the coil. What does the stock one look like?

I also think that's a lot of squat @jetrinka. Looking into air ride now, but should I be looking at new leafs first?
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The spacer lift is giving you a false perception of sag. The first thing I would do is take the spacer lift out and see what you think.

If you must keep the spacer lift then I’d look into airbags, but the ride and handling likely won’t be as good as taking the lift out.

Your rear leaves look stock and don’t appear to have any issues.

The stock front setup just uses the rubber isolator in your photo. With those shorter control arms you will get an improved ride empty and loaded by going back to stock. Just my 0.02.
 
bigontheblue said:
Yeah that looks exactly what's on top of the coil. What does the stock one look like?

I also think that's a lot of squat @jetrinka. Looking into air ride now, but should I be looking at new leafs first?
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Stock one is just the rubber isolator resting in the coil bucket with the metal spacer removed. You should be able to measure the spacer thickness to see how much level you have. The one I was holding in my hand is a 2” and it would’ve been too much for my truck, making it nose high. I ended up using a 1” on mine.
 
I’ll add that if you remove the spacer you will need to make sure the shocks aren’t too long, or that they don’t have a shock spacer on them.
 
Thats not much “squat” if the truck was not levelled it would likely be sitting close to perfectly level with the camper in the box.

Those old campers are much heavier than they look usually
 
H3LZSN1P3R said:
Thats not much “squat” if the truck was not levelled it would likely be sitting close to perfectly level with the camper in the box.

Those old campers are much heavier than they look usually
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I measured tire to wheel well. 9.75" in the front and 7.375" in the rear. With the leveler removed, it wouldn't look so squatted. I guess that's next. The front end doesn't float like a squatted truck so that's good.

The camper stays on basically from June through hunting season in the fall. I hate taking it on and off. I think I'll wait until I need to remove it to pull apart the front end. It's not a bother enough for me to elevate it on my priority list.

I'll check the shock length, but I'll likely just do new stock shocks while it's apart at that time. I like wrenching on the truck but hate doing work twice.

Thanks for all the help!!

And yes, the old campers are heavy, then I built a beefed up roof, added 250 lbs of battery, 80 lb solar panel and cast iron cookware.
 
Before I commit to removing the front spacer, will I still be able to stuff 37's under it? I have 35's on stock 17's and there's a tiny bit of control arm rub at full lock. Looking at a new set of 17x9 rims with -16 mm offset. I have zero well rub right now.

Just for grins what tires should I get and what oil is best ;) have a great day!!
 
bigontheblue said:
Before I commit to removing the front spacer, will I still be able to stuff 37's under it? I have 35's on stock 17's and there's a tiny bit of control arm rub at full lock. Looking at a new set of 17x9 rims with -16 mm offset. I have zero well rub right now.

Just for grins what tires should I get and what oil is best ;) have a great day!!
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37s should fit with any wheel that has +18 or more offset with either very little or no rub at all.

FWIW there are better shock options at stock length then OEM replacements, id go that route if you are going to be replacing shocks either way.
 
bigontheblue said:
Before I commit to removing the front spacer, will I still be able to stuff 37's under it? I have 35's on stock 17's and there's a tiny bit of control arm rub at full lock. Looking at a new set of 17x9 rims with -16 mm offset. I have zero well rub right now.

Just for grins what tires should I get and what oil is best ;) have a great day!!
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Removing the front spacer will push the axle forward at normal ride height, so you’ll gain a little clearance at the back of the fender and lose a little at the front.
 
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