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Remote start added to 2020 Tradesman (SOLVED)

I was in Jscan changing the TPMS and doing some other stuff and turned the remote start on and ordered the fob later. I got the 3 or 4 button fob without the tailgate release. Good service from those folks and it worked perfectly.
Thanks? Iam looking at the link you sent
 
Yup, I was “that guy”.... should be good to go now (I’ve enabled the option, key gets programmed tomorrow). Thanks for the help!

Is the resistor inline with the grounded wire. Inside the shrink wrap? I’m trying to figure out where to add the resistor but can’t find a clear answer.
 
Is the resistor inline with the grounded wire. Inside the shrink wrap? I’m trying to figure out where to add the resistor but can’t find a clear answer.
I think It goes between the purple wire and ground but I’m sure since mine has the switch. I’ll look in a minute and see what colors the wires are.
 
I think It goes between the purple wire and ground but I’m sure since mine has the switch. I’ll look in a minute and see what colors the wires are.
Hi. I found the purple and blue wire on the grey connector under the fuse box. I just want to make sure that what I’m doing is correct.

Here is what I think I have to do.

Find Violet/Blue wire, pin #9, cut it and ground it but with a 1000 ohm resistor in line with the wire.

Is this correct? Do I cut the wire going into the male plug (the one with the black lever to secure the plugs)?
 
Hi. I found the purple and blue wire on the grey connector under the fuse box. I just want to make sure that what I’m doing is correct.

Here is what I think I have to do.

Find Violet/Blue wire, pin #9, cut it and ground it but with a 1000 ohm resistor in line with the wire.

Is this correct? Do I cut the wire going into the male plug (the one with the black lever to secure the plugs)?
I’m not sure about any of that. There is a post earlier in the thread that describes it. I was unable to get to the wires at the switch because of the valance over it and I’m not at home to get to my tools.
 
Hi. I found the purple and blue wire on the grey connector under the fuse box. I just want to make sure that what I’m doing is correct.

Here is what I think I have to do.

Find Violet/Blue wire, pin #9, cut it and ground it but with a 1000 ohm resistor in line with the wire.

Is this correct? Do I cut the wire going into the male plug (the one with the black lever to secure the plugs)?
BCM C1 pin 11. It’s in the first post.
 
BCM C1 pin 11. It’s in the first post.
I found other information saying to tap pin 9. This is getting confusing. I hope I don’t cut the wrong wire.
IMG_3202.png
 
Follow up:
  1. Got the keyfob programmed with JScan-Used this keyfob from Amazon- https://a.co/d/7TuheAQ
  2. Grounded the violet/blue wire with an inline 1K Ohm-.25Watt resistor coming from a gray plug under the fuse box in the engine compartment
  3. Activated remote start
  4. Since I don't have a wired hood latch, I turned off the Hood latch present (Don't remember the exact words on JScan)
  5. Activated 1,000 Ohms resistor with JScan
  6. Drove around over 35 MPH for about 5 minutes
Now all I get is a single honk but no remote start. What did I do wrong?

I will double check the resistors I bought to make sure they are 1k Ohms, .25 Watt. Then make a new ground wire with another resistor to eliminate that variable.
 
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You need to have the hood latch present. The 1k ohm resistor simulates having the hood latch switch for those that don't have it.
 
You need to have the hood latch present. The 1k ohm resistor simulates having the hood latch switch for those that don't have it.
Hood latch present as in physically present or active on JScan? Mine doesn't have a hood latch switch.
 
JScan present. Without the switch, you use the 1k resistor to pretend like you have a switch.
 
Ok. So select present on both, Hood latch and 1k resistor, correct.

Thanks.
 
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