does the horn/alarm go off with the emergency key when you use it? On mine it takes a minute (seems longer but not really) of pressing the button but it does eventually unlock. I have tried standing on passenger side too and same thing. Never had anyone ask me if I needed help tho while waiting for the doors to unlock. I have not actually tried the key in the door but I have left the window open so I could hit the unlock button and it gets your attention lol.
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Remote start added to 2020 Tradesman (SOLVED)
- Thread starter Kunkernator
- Start date
If you walk my be swearing at my truck you probably as well ask me if everything is all right
. It won't sound the horn if you use the emergency key. For the past week or two it was working perfectly and then start doing it again
Eatonpcat
Well-Known Member
If you walk my be swearing at my truck you probably as well ask me if everything is all right
HaHaHa...If you see someone walk by laughing as you curse your truck out...It is probably me!! LOL
bigcountrypoppen
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Please help...unable to get the truck to start using key fobs. I bought the 2 new FOBs with the tailgate and remote start buttons. Had them programmed, bought all the AlfaOBD stuff to include the bypass module. Truck does have the wired connector at hood latch. I enabled remote start and verified the hood ajar input settings are yes on the BCM. Truck honks once but doesn’t start when I hit the remote start button. Everything else works on both remotes (lock/unlock/tailgate). Getting frustrated Thanks in advance for the help.
Drive the truck for a key cycle, then try.
bigcountrypoppen
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You the man brother...thanks a million
I apologize for the basic question, but how do you wire in the 1k ohm resistor? Do I cut the sensor wire and put the resistor in line? Any photos or diagrams would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
You would find the big gray connector in front of the fuse box. You might have to lift the fuse box up to access it. It’s the one that the white line is pointing to-
Unplug it and look at the wires going into the connector with the lever on it-
You’re looking for the purple wire with blue stripe in position 9-
Remove that wire and ground it. You don’t have to put the resistor on it if you don’t have one, but you’ll have to change a setting in the BCM for not having the 1k ohm resistance. Just make sure CBC Config I/O Usage- Hood Ajar Switch Signal Usage is set to 500 ohm series and 500 ohm parallel resistors.
Awesome! Thank you for the detailed explanation. I don't have the equipment to change the configuration, so I will add the resistor.You would find the big gray connector in front of the fuse box. You might have to lift the fuse box up to access it. It’s the one that the white line is pointing to-
Unplug it and look at the wires going into the connector with the lever on it-
You’re looking for the purple wire with blue stripe in position 9-
Remove that wire and ground it. You don’t have to put the resistor on it if you don’t have one, but you’ll have to change a setting in the BCM for not having the 1k ohm resistance. Just make sure CBC Config I/O Usage- Hood Ajar Switch Signal Usage is set to 500 ohm series and 500 ohm parallel resistors.
So... I really appreciate all the info, and also hate to be “that guy”... but I’ve got a 19 Big Horn 6.4 and the wire colors don’t match on my connector. I’ve been searching extensively for a pin out/am at a loss at this point (where are you pulling the diagrams from if you don’t mind me asking)...You would find the big gray connector in front of the fuse box. You might have to lift the fuse box up to access it. It’s the one that the white line is pointing to-
Unplug it and look at the wires going into the connector with the lever on it-
You’re looking for the purple wire with blue stripe in position 9-
Remove that wire and ground it. You don’t have to put the resistor on it if you don’t have one, but you’ll have to change a setting in the BCM for not having the 1k ohm resistance. Just make sure CBC Config I/O Usage- Hood Ajar Switch Signal Usage is set to 500 ohm series and 500 ohm parallel resistors.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Techauthority. If I remember, there is a similar looking black connector near that one. Make sure you are looking at the gray connector.
Yup, I was “that guy”.... should be good to go now (I’ve enabled the option, key gets programmed tomorrow). Thanks for the help!
Last edited:
Jimmy07,
Is there a reason that we can't wire the hood latch switch pin 1 wire to the pin 9 terminal on the XY110A light gray connector by the fuse box instead of running the wire all the way from the hood latch directly to the BCM C1 pin 11? Thanks in advance for all the info you have shared.
Is there a reason that we can't wire the hood latch switch pin 1 wire to the pin 9 terminal on the XY110A light gray connector by the fuse box instead of running the wire all the way from the hood latch directly to the BCM C1 pin 11? Thanks in advance for all the info you have shared.
You would find the big gray connector in front of the fuse box. You might have to lift the fuse box up to access it. It’s the one that the white line is pointing to-
Unplug it and look at the wires going into the connector with the lever on it-
You’re looking for the purple wire with blue stripe in position 9-
Remove that wire and ground it. You don’t have to put the resistor on it if you don’t have one, but you’ll have to change a setting in the BCM for not having the 1k ohm resistance. Just make sure CBC Config I/O Usage- Hood Ajar Switch Signal Usage is set to 500 ohm series and 500 ohm parallel resistors.
If you’re referring to why the kit instructions have you go straight to the BCM instead of what you are thinking- it’s because there are four potential wiring situations from the factory, depending on how the truck is equipped with other options:
1) The hood latch wiring is populated in both the left dash harness and the front end harness
2) The wire is not present in either of those harnesses
3) The wiring is present in the left dash harness, but not the front end harness
4) The wiring is present in the front end harness, but not the left dash harness
Mopar has to manufacture the kit in such a way that it is compatible on all trucks, and to take the guesswork out of which trucks are equipped with which harnesses, they have you automatically bypass the in-line connector that may or may not have the wiring, and go straight to the source of the hood latch signal.
Even if you were building your own harness, and you knew what wiring was present, I would still recommend straight to the BCM, because the BCM terminals are easier to source than the Yazaki terminals used on the XY110 connector.
I ordered a new (third) key fob that has the tailgate and remote start buttons. I'll be grounding the hood wire as described and will enable the system using AlfaOBD.
My question, can I use AlfaOBD to program the new remote to the truck, or use this method found online instead of taking it to a dealer?
"To program a second key fob
1. Put key in ignition and turn ignition switch to ON position (as far as you can turn key without cranking engine).
2. Using a programmed key/remote transmitter perform the following:
-Press and hold UNLOCK button.
-After holding the UNLOCK button for at least 4 seconds, continue holding the UNLOCK button and also press PANIC button within 6 seconds.
-Ensure acoustic signal is emitted indicating programming mode active.
-Release both buttons.
3. Within 60 seconds carry out the following procedure for each remaining key/remote transmitter:
-On the unprogrammed remote, press both the LOCK and UNLOCK button at the same time for 2 seconds then release both buttons.
-Ensure acoustic signal is emitted
-Within 4 seconds press and release the
-UNLOCK button.
-Ensure acoustic signal is emitted
4. Repeat step 3 now for each remaining key/remote transmitters including working remotes.
5. Switch ignition to OFF position or wait 60 seconds to exit programming mode."
My question, can I use AlfaOBD to program the new remote to the truck, or use this method found online instead of taking it to a dealer?
"To program a second key fob
1. Put key in ignition and turn ignition switch to ON position (as far as you can turn key without cranking engine).
2. Using a programmed key/remote transmitter perform the following:
-Press and hold UNLOCK button.
-After holding the UNLOCK button for at least 4 seconds, continue holding the UNLOCK button and also press PANIC button within 6 seconds.
-Ensure acoustic signal is emitted indicating programming mode active.
-Release both buttons.
3. Within 60 seconds carry out the following procedure for each remaining key/remote transmitter:
-On the unprogrammed remote, press both the LOCK and UNLOCK button at the same time for 2 seconds then release both buttons.
-Ensure acoustic signal is emitted
-Within 4 seconds press and release the
-UNLOCK button.
-Ensure acoustic signal is emitted
4. Repeat step 3 now for each remaining key/remote transmitters including working remotes.
5. Switch ignition to OFF position or wait 60 seconds to exit programming mode."
Thanks for the reply and info Jimmy. I'll make a trip to the dealer when the key fob arrives.
jdefoe0424
Active Member
For those who have added the OEM remote start, does the ac come on max or the heat automatically come on to max defrost? Under the applicable conditions of course.
Or does it just come on to what you last had it set to? This is prior to the door being opened.
Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
Or does it just come on to what you last had it set to? This is prior to the door being opened.
Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk